Old Pulteney 21 year old

To spice up my Birthday Bottle Kill event last August, I opened up two bottles and added them to the fray: Old Pulteney 21yo and Springbank 13yo Green. They wound up being the best things I put on the table. I've reviewed that Springbank already. It's time to talk about Old Pulteney 21 year old.

In full disclosure, this bottle was sent to me by Amy of Ten27 Communications two years ago, which was outrageously generous. The whisky was already being retired by Old Pulteney at the time and it couldn't possibly require any additional positive reviews after The Fedora gave it his lordly stamp of approval. But, thank you, Amy!

I haven't worn a fedora since prom night. Either I air out my monstrous fleshy pate or affix a Yakult Swallows cap when the sun is high. But I can and will lavish praise on this late whisky.

Distillery: Pulteney

Ownership: Inver House (via Thai Beverages plc via International Beverage Holdings Ltd.)

Region: Northern Highlands (Wick)

Type: Single Malt

Maturation: from the official site, "ex-bourbon casks with spirit from ex-Oloroso sherry casks. We mostly use second fill American oak, plus some Spanish oak first fill. However, there is a higher proportion of ex-Oloroso sherry cask compared to the 17 Years Old."
Age: minimum 21 years

Bottled: 2015
Bottle code: L15/323

Alcohol by Volume: 46%
Chillfiltered? No
Colored? Not much if any

NOTES
The rich, complex nose starts off with anise, cantaloupe and cherry ice cream. Then, from underneath arises almost-smoky ocean air and dusty bourbon. After 30 minutes in the glass, there's raisin bread, honey, guava, orange peel, toasted oak and a subtle floral note. With a little bit of water, new notes of toffee pudding and sugar cookies appear. Then lemon peel and flowers. Orange pixy stix and berry jam.

The silky palate is a spicy, honeyed thing. Lemon bars with mint leaves. Paprika, orange liqueur (minus the sugar) and melon. The sweetness and sherry casks stay subtle. No raisins nor prunes. With a little bit of water it gets sweeter and spicier. Bread pudding with golden raisins. More lemon bars. Bits of baking spices.

It finishes with stone and citrus fruit, flowers and salt. Lots of oranges and limes. Mint candy and a slight serrano pepper bite in the back. It gets a little sweeter with a little bit of added water. Oranges, serranos and toasted oak.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
I don't fully blame Jim Murray for killing this whisky off. Those at fault are the "news" organizations who blindly announce The Greatest Whisky In The World every time some oddball with an unusual palate sends out press releases. See also, Yamazaki. It's not Fake News, it's Not News.

While I adore Old Pulteney 17 year old, the 21 year old is (or was) something special. What struck me about the whisky is that it was excellent from the very first pour. I always (or 99% of the time) find the first pour from a whisky bottle to be very tight and narrow. This was luscious and perfectly balanced from the start. Because the price tag on the remaining bottles has bloated beyond reason, I'm just going to finish this bottle and bid this great expression adieu.

Availability - A few dozen retailers
Pricing - Europe average price is $254. US average price is $177, per winesearcher
Rating - 90

Killing Whisky History, Episode 23: Longmorn 15 year old, bottled late '90s - early '00s

I hereby sacrifice the beloved Longmorn 15 to Persephone to bring spring forthwith!

 

Clynelish Distillery Only, 2018 Edition

I liked this lineup: an indie Clynelish, the sherry cask-finished Distillers Edition and this Distillery Only bottling. There was (SPOILER ALERT) not a bad whisky amongst the three. In fact, they might have been slightly better than the Crown Royal Taste Off.

MAO rescued a bottle of this whisky (please see his review here) from the very homey-looking confines of the Clynelish gift shop last year. He sent me this sample for which I am very grateful.

Stellar idea
So poorly executed
Where is my whisky

According to whiskybase, there was only one previous Distillery Only Clynelish. 7000 bottles of ex-bourbon malt bottled at a hefty 57.3%abv, back in 2008. The distillery took a similar approach in 2018, ex-bourbon and 6000 bottles, but reduced it to 48%abv. No it's not full power, but 48%abv is a good spot for whisky. For 80GBP, though, it'd better be a really good spot.

Distillery: Clynelish
Region: Highlands (North)

Ownership: Diageo

Maturation: bourbon casks

Age: ???
Outturn: 6,000 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 48%
Chillfiltered: Probably not
Colored: Probably not

NEAT
Ah, no woodwork in the nose. It's bready, with sesame seeds and chives. Dry grass, dry soil. Pears and lemons and dried parsley. A barley note grows with time. The palate is brighter and fruitier than the nose, with loquats (I know it's random but I love loquats), clementines and limes. Some floral esters, ginger powder and a hint of soil. Very little heat. Brown sugar, honey and ginger in the finish, with a little bit of the floral esters and grassy notes.

DILUTED TO ~40%abv, or 1¼ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
Lemons, dry grass, chives, brine and mint leaves on the nose. The palate and finish are identical to the nose. Lemons, mint, grass, herbs, salt.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
This is a fine representation of lean Clynelish. Good on Diageo for not squeezing it out of recharred quarter casks. The fruit, grain, salt and herbs work well as a team whether the whisky is neat or diluted. I don't really understand the price (natch), but there aren't many/any cheap distillery-only bottlings in Scotland. As of last year this D.O. was available as part of the 12GBP tasting at the distillery, and that's probably the best way and place to taste it.

Availability - Distillery Only, as per the name
Pricing - £80
Rating - 86

Clynelish 1997 Distillers Edition (2012 bottling)

Diageo's Clynelish Distillers Edition had a brief seven-year run, ending in 2012. Until now I didn't understand why they chose to end that one, but continue, say, Glenkinchie's DE. But I just realized Diageo also retired Green Label in 2012. Could they really have been facing a Clynelish shortage? Should I give them the benefit of the doubt?

No? Okay.

This final batch (Cl-Br: 175-7l) was brought out for a Columbus Scotch Night last year. It was a hit. People liked it better than Johnnie Walker Blue, because people have taste buds.

Distillery: Clynelish
Region: Highlands (North)

Ownership: Diageo

Range: Distillers Edition

Maturation: ??? years in ??? casks, then a brief finish in Oloroso Seco casks 

Age: 14-15 years

Alcohol by Volume: 46%
Chillfiltered: Probably
Colored: Probably

NEAT
The sherry cask keeps out of trouble in the nose. Brine, beachy kelp and miso lead the way. Then honey mustard and nuts. Small notes of cocoa and dried fruit round it out. More sherry cask in the palate. Dried stone fruits, buttery caramel and fresh ginger float in a mellow sweetness. Hints of flowers and limes. The edges feel sanded down. A lightly warm and sweet finish. Ginger candy, flowers, pepper, salt and a hint of drying tannins.

DILUTED TO ~40%abv, or < 1 tsp of water per 30mL whisky
The nose shifts to raisins, molasses, brine, vanilla bean and apple skins. No raisins in the palate, but there are plenty of nutty notes. Mint candy, a few peppercorns. A good earthy note leaps out of nowhere. It finishes with cayenne pepper, salt and mint candy.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
Though the spirit is much shier than in yesterday's Clynelish, it's not completely drowned out by the casks. This is a simpler, cuddlier Clynelish than the regular 14 year old, but it hasn't slipped into the long line of multi-cask somnambulant Speysides. Its Highland roots are still showing, and its shoes are scuffed. I don't actually know what that means, but this is still Clynelish albeit very approachable.

Availability - maybe a few European retailers
Pricing - ???
Rating - 85

Clynelish 12 year old 1997 James Macarthur, cask 11828

When arranging this week's Clynelish lineup, I found a sample of this whisky:

I bought the bottle at the recommendation of the very wise Todd, just before I left California. After moving to Ohio, I promptly drank it all. Had I not left a sample in my now-defunct archive the whisky would never have been reviewed! And as we all know, a whisky not publicly opined upon does not actually exist.

So here's the first of this week's three Clynelish. It's a 1997 from an independent bottler I never see or hear from anymore. Anyone know if James Macarthur is still in business?

Distillery: Clynelish
Region: Highlands (Northern)

Independent Bottler: James MacArthur & Co.
Series: Fine Malt Selection

Age: 12 years (1997-2010)

Maturation: bourbon cask, possibly re-fill
Cask number: 11828

Alcohol by Volume: 45%
Chillfiltered: No
Colored: No

NEAT
Two bold elements play together well in the nose. There's an earthy-aquatic side: ground mustard seed, brine, dried leaves and seaweed in extra virgin olive oil. Then there's barley with apple and cucumber skins. Good stuff. The palate also keeps a duality in balance. Soil, salt, herbs and grass. Fresh peaches and apricots and a few flower blossoms. I guess it's all earthbound. Grass, earth, salt and pepper in the finish, with some apples lending color.

DILUTED TO ~40%abv, or ⅔ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
The nose is all barley, lemon zest and ground mustard. The palate: barley, burlap, apples, salt and ginger candy. The finish has surprising length and warmth. Baking spices, canned pears and a little bit of sugar.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
First, the airing of grievances.

The official tasting notes:

No, there's no vanilla or bourbon on the palate. And that's a good thing. Had I gone by the bottle's notes, I wouldn't have bought it. What Clyne fan wants vanilla and bourbon in his 'lish?

It's the distillate that sings here. And it is right and good. (Actually, a whisky buddy thought this was a refill sherry cask.) There's been enough maturation time to calm the whisky a bit, and let the potentially dueling sides merge.

No wonder this bottle went fast. I wish I had another. Todd probably told me to buy two.

Availability - I don't know
Pricing - was $50-$60 earlier in the decade, likely 50% more expensive now
Rating - 88

The Crown Royale -- 4 Crowns, 1 Noggin

Our lives have been incomplete, until now:

You ask, "No Northern Harvest Rye?" No, no artsy-fartsy crap. Jim Murray's Weird Payoff will get its own post someday. Maybe.

It's Crown Royal vs. Crown Royal Black vs. Crown Royal Regal Apple vs. Crown Royal Vanilla. I received Black, Apple and Vanilla as Secret Santa gifts last year, then I bought the 200mL of Fin De Luxe myself. May that put your mind at ease about the sourcing of these Canadians.

Before I continue, two clarifications:

1. As one of the most popular whisky brands in the world, Crown has been enjoyed by millions of people for multiple generations. Hell, it sells more cases than Jameson. So this is not an April fool's joke. It's a legit Taste Off.
2. I will grade Regal Apple and Vanilla as whiskies. If the major whisky industries insist on flooding their markets with artificially-flavored products with the word "whisky" attached, then these drinks should be judged as whiskies.

These four Crowns were first tried neatly via nosing glasses, then they were all served on the rocks and compared again. Here are the results.

NEAT

Crown Royal (Fin De Luxe), 40%abv
Nose - Sugary and floral with a mild acetone note. Sawdust, vanilla and apples, with hints of malt and rye.
Palate - Grainy Irish whiskey + Johnnie Walker Red + pears. It gets very sweet after a while, all sugar and apples and flowers.
Finish - Warm, short and cloying.

Crown Royal Black, 45%abv
Nose - Sturdier and bolder than the classic Crown. Rye and orange peel. Vanilla bean, cinnamon and clove with a hint of glue.
Palate - Again, burlier and bigger. More American oak, but also more rye. Some good bitterness and dark dried fruits.
Finish - Simple. Sweeter than the palate. Has some of the dried fruits.

Crown Royal Regal Apple, 35%abv
Nose - Oh. Need to sniff from at least 3 inches away, because gross. Spoiled spiced cider, Children's Cherry Tylenol and nail polish remover. Or as I like to call it, Sunday night.
Palate - Chemicals. Cologne. Not apples. Watermelon candy. Candy canes. Children's medicine.
Finish - Aspartame and acetone and candy canes.

Crown Royal Vanilla, 35%abv
Nose - Nilla wafers, bottom shelf Irish whiskey, cinnamon, cherry pie and simple syrup.
Palate - Cream soda, confectioner's sugar and honey.
Finish - Same as palate. Brutal sweetness, but not full of chemicals.

Then...

ON THE ROCKS

Crown Royal (Fin De Luxe)
Vanilla and apples – how curious. There's also a honey note, but it's not too sweet. Just a slight bitterness.

Crown Royal Black
Its strengths have been neutralized. It's just vanilla and banana pudding. It's better when neat.

Crown Royal Regal Apple
I can still smell the chemical spill. The palate is less stomach churning. Perhaps there's some apple candy, but no whisky can be found. Tooth-rottingly aspartame sweet.

Crown Royal Vanilla
It smells like dog's breath. How does that happen? Then the palate goes all wrong. It's not vanilla. Something woody and not food.

CONCLUSIONS

Crown Royal (Fin De Luxe) - I was surprised to find this a full step better than modern day Canadian Club and Black Velvet and Seagram's. It works quite well on the rocks as notes of vanilla and apples come naturally(?) from the whisky. I'm going to keep what's left of my bottle for summer highballs, but I doubt I'll ever buy this again.
Rating - 71

Crown Royal Black - With its shocking 45%abv and use of new American oak, this comes across as actual whisky. It tops all standard Canadian blends I've had. And most standard Irish blends too. But in the $30 price range there are still many bourbons, a few ryes and and an occasional scotch with which it can't compete. Again, I'll keep the rest of my bottle, but I won't be pouring it onto ice.
Rating - 78

Crown Royal Regal Apple - This made me physically ill. Just looking at the bottle photo makes me nauseous. Sub-calvados, sub-applejack, sub-schnapps, sub-apple pucker, sub-Malort Regal Apple is bound to ruin many a cocktail. And everything else. Recommended!
Rating - 36

Crown Royal Vanilla - You know, it wasn't horrible before I put it on ice. I could see how it would work in dessert cocktails. And it was digestible. But if anyone is going to sip this, I'd assume they'd be doing so with it on the rocks, and that's when it goes wrong. Very wrong. But unlike Regal Ipecac, Vanilla can be used for things.
Rating - 59

The April Advance

WELCOME TO APRIL'S GIMMICK!

Yes, indeed. I have a plan for this upcoming month.

Ready for it???

...

...

Okay, here it is...

...

I'm going to post a lot of reviews.

Brilliant, right?

There's a new crop of recently purchased samples awaiting consumption here, thus many of April's reviews will be somewhat relevant. Amazing!

Normally, there are a dozen spirits reviewed here each month. I'm going for three dozen in April. Randy Brandy and Rum Dummy will each make an appearance, and there's a Killing Whisky History episode in production.

Beatrice finds this idea dubious...

...but I'm determined to make her proud of her father. So I'm going to drink more.

Stay tuned!