Wednesday, October 10, 2012
Ownership: Burn Stewart Distillers
Age: minimum 10 years
Maturation: both ex-bourbon American oak and ex-sherry European oak
Region: Island (Mull)
Alcohol by Volume: 46.3%
Almost ten months ago, I had the rare pleasure of trying the no longer available Ledaig 15 year. I LOVED IT! It was unique, odd but wonderful. With that official bottling off the shelves, I am left to get my Ledaig fix from the official older 10 year bottling (at 43%), the new 10 year bottling, a very young NAS release, and a bunch of independent versions. Because Ledaig is such an odd bird, I wasn't yet ready to dive into an indie release, especially not one with a quirky finish (read: Murray McDavid). Since the official 10 year is somewhat easily available in the States, I figured that was the direction to go.
Ledaig (pronounced Lay-chig) is the peated malt from Tobermory Distillery, the only distillery on the Isle of Mull. Tobermory has modelled Ledaig after the original style of malt that they had produced for much of their existence. The peat levels are not shy on Ledaig, but it doesn't taste like an Islay, nor a Talisker, or a Highland Park, nor any of the peated Highlanders. It's its own beast, with characteristics ranging from barbecued fish, leather, vinegar, burnt citrus peels, tobacco, brine, to bacon.
So it's a weird malt. If those characteristics don't sound good to you, then I guarantee they probably won't taste or smell good either. But if you're intrigued, then maybe you should try a sip...
I know I loved the ol' 15yr. Would the newest version (at 46.3% ABV, not chillfiltered) of the 10yr provide a similar fun ride? Before going after a full bottle, I went for a 30mL Master of Malt sample.
The color is very light amber. Somewhere between well-hydrated urine and pinot grigio. Think on that. No don't. The nose starts with cheap plastic toys, then peat-infused vinegar. There are some rubber bands, a light dose of American oak, a bit of vanilla. The palate holds bitter peat, wet dog hair (I obviously eat wet dogs on a regular basis), a ball of moss, simple vanilla, and maybe(?) sherry. It's young and spirity, yet easier on the tongue than the nose. It finishes with burnt paper, peat smoke, and that bit o' sherry. It stays youthful, hot and zippy and drying.
Not much changes on the nose. More of the peat vinegar. And whole bunch of vegetal peat/moss. The plastic and rubber notes quiet down. The burnt paper note jumps into the palate, followed by old charred firewood, vanilla, moss, and some sour peat smoke. The finish shortens considerably. Still drying, though. All vanilla and peat smoke.
First off, many compliments to Burn Stewart for their 46.3% ABV & non-chillfiltered releases (especially the Bunnahabhain!). I hope other companies follow suit. Now if they were to let the malt snooze in a cask for five more years and release a 46.3% 15-year Ledaig, well......
The spirit shouts in this 10yr, while the oak whispers. I don't mind plastic and rubber notes in my whiskies, so keep that in mind. You many not feel the same. The sour and vinegary notes were all right, but not crazy or unique enough to be of note, nor something I yearn to taste in a daily dram. I would certainly drink this again, but I'm going to forgo the full bottle. It was an enjoyable Ledaig experience, but afterwards it vanished from my memory rapidly (and, no, I did not booze up afterwards). The old 15-year, though, remains in my memory ten months later.
(If anyone knows a source that will lead me to a bottle or sample of the old official Ledaig 15yr, please let me know. I've found a couple places online selling it for $150 (incl. shipping), but that's a little steep to me.)
As for this new version of the 10-year:
Availability - Some liquor specialists
Pricing - $50-$55
Rating - 81