(Bunnahabhain cluster 2023 homepage)
Indie bottler, Wemyss, had a wacky set of 1987 Bunnahabhain casks in their warehouses. At least four of them were below 45%abv when dumped, while three were over 62%abv at age 30. I got my greasy mitts on a sample of the brute of the bunch, a single cask that did not have one of Wemyss's perky names, but rather one that was given a pretty label and sent to Taiwan. It's also the darkest whisky I've tried in a very long time.
Over the three decades the cask lost ~35% of its content, but almost no alcohol. (Even the angels need to stay hydrated.) What does this mean though? Will this one batter my face with tannins like yesterday's '88???
Distilled by: Highland Distilleries Company Ltd.
Region: Islay
Independent Bottler: Wemyss
Age: allllllmost 31 years (30 Nov 1987 - 15 Nov 2018)
Maturation: "Fresh Sherry Butt"
Alcohol by Volume: 62.3%
Chillfiltered? No
Colorant added? No
NEAT
INTENSE. Bold notes of ocean water and moss survive in the nose, combining well with dark chocolate, eucalyptus, salted roasted almonds, and dried currants. It even has subtle notes of lychee and boot polish in the background. The palate, easily drinkable at this strength, leads with figs, Palo Cortado, and sea salt. Bits of umami and leather here and there. Some peaches and dried blueberries too. This finish lasts for nearly an hour: umami, charred peppers, salt, peaches, and a splash of PX sweetness.
Just a little bit of water...
DILUTED to ~57%abv, or ½ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
Very pretty nose. Fresh basil, fresh apricots, anise, and roses in the foreground, dark chocolate and dates in the background. It's a blunter weapon on the palate, hotter. more peppery, and sweeter. Feels like a PX cask here. It finishes similar to the palate with an extra does of fresh ginger.
WORDS WORDS WORDS
Keep this gorgeous beast neat! Yum. It has my dried fruits, fresh fruits, flowers, chocolates, savoriness, saltiness, and mossiness. And may I remind you, figs and dates. Meanwhile, the Bunnahabhain character survived all that time and evaporation.
Yes, I tried it alongside yesterday's 28yo, and this monster won in a first round KO. And I thought this 30yo was going to be the unmanageable one. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I'm happy to be wrong.
Availability - Sold out
Pricing - ???
Rating - 90 (NEAT)
