I'm ending 2024 with a happy whisky story since much of the world, online and off, can be particularly joyless right now.
OHLQ, the state of Ohio's liquor control agency, decided to take the leap into single cask scotch whisky in 2022. They've been bringing in hoards of American whiskey single barrels, but never anything from the Scot Land. Then, with little hubbub, single sherry casks of Blair Athol, Craigellachie, and Tamdhu from Distiller's Art (a branch of Langside Distillers, which itself is a limb Douglas Laing & Co., a successful independent bottler of Scotch whisky) materialized on the shelves. Unfortunately, and unsurprisingly, the bottle prices were prohibitive to the point that even those of us who've been begging Ohio to get in the game weren't buying the stuff.
But, like other state-run liquor agencies, OHLQ often offers clearance prices on products when it's time to empty the shelves to make room for other inventory. So we all waited. And waited. And waited. And then this fall, Last Call happened. Prices for these whiskies dropped below $100. The Doctors Springbank and I chose to split a bottle of the Tamdhu cask. I picked it up at the shop, brought it to the Doctors' house, and we each poured ourselves a glass.
I've spoken previously about the magical It Factor, "the eternally mysterious, inexplicable, undefinable "YES" quality." After the first sip, we all looked at it each. The Tamdhu had It. So much so, that this cheapskate immediately said he'd buy another bottle. The Doctors, NOT cheapskates, agreed to do the same. We drove directly to the liquor store upon finishing that first glass, and each bought our own bottles.
It was a discovery! A whisky deal for a whisky gem. The global whisky marketplace seemed to have banned the possibility for the forseeable future, and I lived in the middle of American whiskey country. This should have been the last place in the First World (outside of certain Orthodox religious areas) for the this old magic to occur. And yet, it happened. I hadn't had this feeling for nearly a decade, and here I was sharing it with friends.
I'm happy to report, several months later, the whisky still works.
Ownership: Ian Macleod Distillers
Region: Speyside (Central)
Age: 14 years old (Apr 2007 - 2022)
Maturation: Sherry butt
Alcohol by Volume: 61.8%
(from the bottle referenced above)
NEAT
One immediately notices that there's a lot going on in the nose. It's very nutty and briny, with some dunnage funk, and a hint of toasted seaweed. Fresh cherries, dried raspberries, and a whiff of dark chocolate linger beneath. The palate is tangy, tart, and nutty, with equal hints of sweet and savory. There are walnuts, Brazil nuts, oranges, grapefruits, and Luxardo cherries over a base of nutmeg and cloves. It's neither hot, nor tannic. Gently (yes at 61.8%abv) sweet and tart, the finish dishes out dried apricots, dried blueberries, and nutmeg.
DILUTED to 46%abv, or 2 tsp of water per 30mL whisky
The nose has soften prettily, revealing orange blossoms, orange creamsicles, lime candy, marzipan, and ocean breezes. The palate is savorier and saltier, less sweet. Actual oloroso, Manuka honey, brightly tart limes, and some almost-peat phenolics. It finishes with lemons, limes, honey, walnuts, and almonds.
WORDS WORDS WORDS
If you chose to skip the above novel, I'll summarize it here. This Tamdhu is excellent. It is complex, it is delicious, it is honed yet a little dirty. It reaches back into my whisky past and reminds me of what I like about sherry cask whisky. It has It, and really I can't ask for more. I'll see you next year.
Availability - Sold out
Pricing - dropped from $164 to $98
Rating - 90
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