Dalmore Port Wood Reserve (US release)

Here are the top three reasons that the name "Dalmore" has rarely been mentioned on this blog during the 11.5 years I've reviewed spirits here:

1. Their bottling plant suffers from an dangerously excessive water supply. I mean, that's why their whiskies are so aggressively diluted, right?
2. As single malt sales began warming up 10 years ago, Dalmore declared itself a luxury brand, boosting prices on its age-stated malts higher than any other brand, save (maybe) Macallan. Meanwhile Dalmore single malt offers nothing quality-wise that every other sherry cask whisky doesn't. So it was luxury-because-we-say-so, which is my least favorite thing next to......
3. Richard Paterson ostentatiously dumping whisky on the floor is the douchiest whisky thing ever recorded on video, which is saying something considering the competition. You gonna get down on the floor and clean that up yourself, Dick? Didn't think so.

Anyway, I have two good friends who like(d) Dalmore's single malt, and they graciously provided me with samples from their bottles. So I'm going to do one week of Dalmore reviews then avoid them forever, unless more bourbon cask indie releases appear.

I'll start off with Dalmore's standard Port Wood Reserve release. Ah yes, "Reserve". That's Scotch for "three to five years old". So of course it costs $100.

Pro: It's bottled at the very-un-Dalmore strength of 46.5%abv!

Started out a Pro but turned into a ???: Its contents started out in American oak, yay! Then half stayed in American oak, yay! The other half spent an unspecified amount of time in tawny port casks, and was then blended with the American oak portion.

Distillery: Dalmore

Region: Highlands (Northern)
Ownership: Emperador Distillers Inc (via White & Mackay)

Range: The Principal Collection

Age: ???
Maturation: Step 1 - Matured in American oak. Step 2 - Half re-casked into tawny port casks. Step 3 - Marry both halves together.
Alcohol by Volume: 46.5%

Chillfiltered? I don't know
Colorant Added? Probably

(thank you to BR for this sample from his bottle!)

NOTES

Whew, the nose starts off fusty like a dusty, which I kinda like. Even after that characteristic wanes, it leaves behind a nice dirty edge. Beyond the fust lies fudge, roses, raspberries and lemon peel.

Less of the dusty fusty on the palate, though here it reads more like Loch Lomond funk, and it dissipates quickly. Unfortunately it's replaced by tannins. On the hand, its sweetness is well moderated by tangy berries and tart citrus.

Berry jam leads the finish, though it's not too sweet. Bitter oak lingers in the background.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

The nose wins by a good length, a common occurrence with cask-heavy spirits, but the palate is better than I'd expected. The finish was not. I'm not sure if everyone will find that same quirky character in the nose and palate (Serge's notes suggest something sulfuric), so this might be a Rorschach test for some. I think it could have been an interesting competitor for Glenmo's Quinta Ruban, had the Reserve been priced more realistically. But alas, Dalmore.

Availability - North America, Europe, and Asia
Pricing - $100+
Rating - 80

Royal Lochnagar 19 year old Cadenhead Small Batch, 56.6%abv

On Wednesday I reviewed my third-ever Cardhu. Today I'll review my third-ever Royal Lochnagar. Truly, it is a week of milestones.

Diageo's smallest distillery, Royal Lochnagar has historically been one of Johnnie Walker Blue Label's main malts, while also making appearances in the Pinch and Windsor blends. Cadenhead bottled a number of 1996 vintage Lochnagars, and this may well be one of them, but I'm not sure. Just to add to the confusion, there is a 56.3%abv batch and a 56.6%abv batch. This, the oldest RL single malt I've had, is the latter.

Distillery: Royal Lochnagar

Region: Middle Eastern Highlands
Owner: Diageo

Independent Bottler: Cadenhead
Range: Small Batch

Age: minimum 19 years

Maturation: ???

Outturn: ???

Alcohol by Volume: 56.6%
Chillfiltered: No
Colored: No

(from a bottle split)

NEAT

The nose starts off well, with a mix of dried currants, figs, and hint of industrial smoke. Small notes of white chocolate macadamia cookies and kiwis fill in around the edges. Orange liqueur, tart lemons, and pencil shavings lead the palate. Hints of almond extract and peaches show up occasionally. It's also VERY tannic. The finish gets oakier with time. Tart citrus and eucalyptus struggle to be heard.

DILUTED to 46%abv, or 1¼ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

The nose becomes slightly farmy, with the industrial character retreated to the back. A little bit of oak spice drifts around. Sadly the palate gets oakier and papery. Oranges, limes, and almond extract can't push through. It finishes bitterly. Such is life.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Quite a quality split between the nose and palate. I really enjoyed the breadth of the former, but struggled with the narrowness of the latter. I'm not sure what the maturation vessel was other than a capital 'C' Cask. Neither water nor time helped relieve the tannins. Had the flavors paralleled the scents, this would have been a heck of a whisky. Alas no. I doubt I'll chase after other Royal Lochnagar samples/splits in the future.

Availability - Sold out?
Pricing - ???
Rating - 81

Cardhu 14 year old 2006, Special Release 2021

With today's post, I am doubling this blog's Cardhu review grand total. You're welcome! In fact, this is only the third Cardhu I've ever tried. Most recently I consumed the GoT House of Schmargaryanne Gold Forgettable (man, what a limp collection that was). And a decade ago, during a head-to-head of Cardhu 12 against Johnnie Walker Green Label, JW pantsed the 'dhu repeatedly. Thus my expectations for this Diageo Special Release are not high. But I'm trying here, people, I'm trying!

Distillery: Cardhu
Ownership: Diageo

Range: Special Release
Age: at least 14 years old (2006 - 2021)
Maturation: refill American oak + red wine cask finish
Outturn: ?????
Alcohol by Volume: 55.5%

Chillfiltered? No
Colorant Added? Not much if any

(from a bottle split)

NEAT

The nose is...a nose. It starts with a mix of raw grain, sesame seeds, and clay. Then things get wild. Suave Naturals raspberry conditioner (do they still make that?), toasted coconut, perfume, and steel wool show up together like a K-Pop crew from hell. Then orange blossoms and a salty broth call out from the background. The palate arrives alive. Moderate amounts of sweet (golden syrup), floral (blossoms), and salt (salt). Hint of lime, a touch of Chambord. Not much oak. Cherry juice, chile oil, and white jellybeans roll through the finish.

That was a thing. Now with water!

DILUTED to 46%abv, or 1¼ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

At this strength, the nose has more malt, less wine. More flowers, less perfume. Something coastal arises in the distance. Much better palate too. Tart fruits take over the foreground, while the sweets (golden syrup and butterscotch) retreat to the back. A gentle sweetness finishes it off.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Though I cannot say this whisky has inspired me to try a fourth Cardhu, it was still better than the two I'd tried previously. In fact it's pretty good once diluted, though a certifiable hot mess when neat. A lot of these bottles remain on the shelves and, judging by the prices, retailers don't know what to do with the damned things.

Availability - The First World
Pricing - $150-$400 (USA), $120-$250 (Europe)
Rating - 83 (diluted only)

Balmenach 11 year old Old Particular, cask DL12563 for K&L

After offering up some fairly organized distillery groupings, this blog's throwing you a trio of Oh Yeah That Distillery Exists reviews this week. It's all Speyside(-adjacent) stuff, and I really don't know what to expect. But the samples were getting lonely, and I'm hoping to find something fun hidden within the bottles.

First up, Balmenach!

Distillery: Balmenach
Ownership: Thai Beverages plc (via Inver House Distillers)
Independent Bottler: Douglas Laing

Range: Old Particular
Age: 11 years old (Sept 2006 - Aug 2018)
Maturation: Refill Hogshead
Cask#: DL 12563
Outturn: 284
Alcohol by Volume: 59.3%
Exclusive to: K&L Wine Merchants

Chillfiltered? No
Colorant Added? No

(from a bottle split)

Color: 🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🚾, my fave!

NEAT

We're close to (very good) new make on the nose, farmy and almost smoky. Cherry lollies, raspberry jam, golden raisins, and a hint of shortbread. The palate is neither too hot nor too sweet. Yeah it has honey, cinnamon red hots, and red Twizzlers, but imagine those essences without so much sugar involved. It has a slight maltiness in the background, along with anise and salt. It finishes with a curious almost-dragonfruit note, along with tart limes and cinnamon red hots. A good length to it too.

DILUTED to 46%abv, or 1¾ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

Oh, the nose goes very fruity, like a juice made of mango, papaya, peach, and ginger. The palate gets more floral, while leaning more towards fruit than candy. No weird oak stuff! It finishes with a proper balance sweet and tart.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Is this what happens when you don't mess with Balmenach's spirit? Because this is my kind of baby whisky! I'd drink this neatly any time, but it can take a lot of water too. K&L slung this malt for the right price, four years ago. I missed out!

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - $44.99
Rating - 87

Daftmill 2009 Summer Release (2020, USA)

The inclusion of a first-fill sherry cask in the mix makes this 2009 Summer Release different the other four Daftmills I've tried. The distillery's all-bourbon-barrel approach has been solid and reliable so far, but the 2007 Winter Release called out for some sort of twist. To try to gain perspective, I tried that batch side-by-side with this one. 

Distillery: Daftmill

Owner: Francis Cuthbert
Region: Bow of Fife, Lowlands

Age: 11 years (2009 - 2020)

Barley: Optic

Maturation: four(?) bourbon barrels + one first-fill sherry butt
Outturn: 1680 bottles

Exclusive to: USA

Alcohol by Volume: 46%abv
Chillfiltered? No
Colorant Added? No

(from a bottle split)

NOTES

Though the sherry cask brings a nuttier side to the 2009's nose, along with some dried cherries, a malty note stands its ground right up front. Cinnamon moves through the midground, while lychee and flowers linger in the back. If I tried this whisky blindly, I'd think its palate was that of an officially-bottled Aberlour, with the dried fruits leading the way at first. But a prettier element — full of hazelnut cream, roses, and plums — slowly takes over. The usual peppercorn note is replaced by a hint of pencil shavings. It finishes sweet and creamy, with quieter nut and flower notes in the background.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Yes, the sherry butt wasn't shy, but it did not tip this batch into winesky territory. Instead this Daftmill read fuller and thicker than the '07 Winter Release, and felt better blended than many bourbon+sherry cask single malts from much bigger batches and distilleries. I'd keep a lookout for future Daftmill batches with this cask combination were the bottle prices not so dear.

Availability - Possibly still available in the US
Pricing - $225-$300
Rating - 85

Daftmill 2007 Winter Release (2019, UK)

After trying the recent 15yo CS approach to Daftmill, I decided to have a go at two others from the young Lowland distillery. The 2006 Summer Release has been my favorite Daftmill so far, while the 2006 Winter has been my least favorite, though all of three points separate the two. The 2007 Winter Release (UK edition) was constructed entirely from first-fill bourbon barrels, and that's all I knew about it before this tasting.

Distillery: Daftmill

Owner: Francis Cuthbert
Region: Bow of Fife, Lowlands

Age: 11-12 years (November 2007 - 2019)

Barley: Optic

Maturation: Seven first-fill bourbon barrels (23-25, 27, 32, 35, and 38)
Outturn: 1785 bottles

Exclusive to: United Kingdom

Alcohol by Volume: 46%abv
Chillfiltered? No
Colorant Added? No
(thank you to Dr. Springbank for the sample!)

NOTES

The nose starts off like a white burgundy (which is good!) with its grapes, lemons, and peaches. Sugar cookies, cherry juice, and honey arrive next, with hints of white bread and brine in the background. Lemons, salt, and sugar cookies fill the palate's foreground, with a few peppercorns and some new make in the back. Plenty sweet throughout. It finishes briefly with lemon candy, lychee, black pepper, and salt.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

It's an inoffensive everyday drinker, but it doesn't turn into anything more than that. My short notes aren't due to a dead nose, as tomorrow's whisky (tried alongside this one) offered much more. It's just mellow stuff, perhaps a bit rawer than the other four Daftmills I've sampled, something to pour, sip, and forget. No harm in that, but nothing to sing about either. Perhaps it needed a little something else. More on that, tomorrow.

Availability - Secondary market
Pricing - ???
Rating - 82

Daftmill 15 year old 2006 Cask Strength

I'm not going to top the intro I wrote for my previous Daftmill review (in 2020), so I encourage you to read that post first if you're curious about my feelings about the Cuthbert family and their wee Lowland distillery, Daftmill. Here's a hint: the feelings are positive. The fact that a new distillery was daft enough to actually allow their product to mature for more than a decade before bringing it to the market still makes me smile.

In addition to the 2006-2019 Summer Release referenced above, I've also reviewed the 2006-2018 Winter Release. Both whiskies were "modest and peaceful" and spirit-forward, about 12 years of age and diluted to 46%abv. Today, I'm trying my first cask strength Daftmill, and perhaps their oldest release so far: a 15 year old.

Distillery: Daftmill

Owner: Francis Cuthbert
Region: Bow of Fife, Lowlands

Age: minimum 15 years old (2006-2022)

Barley: Chariot

Maturation: 28 first-fill bourbon casks

Outturn: 5338 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 55.7%abv
Chillfiltered? No
Colorant Added? No
(from a bottle split)

NEAT

Mmmmm. Shortbread biscuits, honey, and yuzus in the nose, with brown sugar, herbes de Provence, and cardamom pods in the background. The palate starts with an fruity/floral eau de vie mixed with lime juice and a hint of grapefruit. It's quite tart and mildly sweet, with plenty of peppercorns in the background. It finishes with shortbread, limes, peppercorns.

DILUTED to 46%abv, or 1¼ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

Orange peel and vanilla bean take the fore in the nose now, something woodsy (not woody) in the middle, and a hint of miso in the back. Tart oranges and black peppercorns fill the palate, with a floral hint around the edges. It finishes with a mix of fresh ginger, oranges, and vanilla.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

The pretty nose reads like something between (what we all used to generalize as) Speyside and Lowland, with some decent complexity when served neatly. Youth has not left the palate, giving it just enough bite and fight to keep it from getting too soft.

Though one must continue to pay a premium for this tiny distillery's output, this 15 year old cask strength version is the same price as the 12 year old diluted batches we received here in The States.

As far as overall quality, while I've yet to have a real stunner from Daftmill, each of their single malts has been very good, making them the most reliable Lowland malt distillery at the moment. How about two more Daftmills this week?

Availability - European Union
Pricing - $250-$300 (w/VAT, exchange rate as of 6 Feb)
Rating - 86