Redbreast 27 year old, batch B1/19

Since some of us are shut in our homes with our children during this St. Patrick's Day Week, I elected to keep us buoyant with All Kinds of Redbreast. Five days, Five RBs.

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It seems as if Midleton (and Pernod Ricard) have suddenly embraced the ultra-luxury market after seeing scotch's success. There are now 20+, 30+, 40+ year old cask strength pot still whiskies flashing through the markets. Redbreast 27-year-old sells for $500 and up, sitting at the base of this new category's price spectrum.

The marketing material focuses on the whiskey being "enriched by Ruby Port Casks". To get the real(?) scoop, one will have more luck reading this Master of Malt blog post. The highlights:

What we have here is a combination of four cask types: first-still[sp] bourbon and refill bourbon, first-fill oloroso sherry casks and first-fill ruby Port pipes”...

...Today, Irish Distillers now imports between 40-60 European oak 500 litre port pipes annually. The wood is medium-toasted and seasoned with red wine for approximately 12 months before ruby Port is added for approximately 12 months. [Head of maturation Kevin] O’Gorman explained that the process was a response to “the challenge of seasoning Port. If you put it into a virgin oak cask, you’re going to get a major wood contribution. One of the techniques we figured out right from the start was that we needed to take some of these tannins and wood compounds out from the start,” O’Gorman explains.

I like that their head of maturation actually wants to reduce "major wood contribution", taking some "tannins and wood compounds out from the start". That sounds almost scandalous in the modern whisk(e)y era. Time to find out if he was successful.

The times

Distillery: Midleton

Brand: Redbreast
Region: Cork, Ireland
Type: Single Pot Still

Age: minimum 27 years

Maturation: first-fill and refill bourbon casks, first-fill oloroso sherry casks and first-fill ruby Port pipes (see above for more details)
Outturn: 528 bottles
Batch: B1/19
Alcohol by Volume: 54.6%

Chillfiltered? ???
Color added? ???
(from a bottle split)

NEAT
The nose begins with mango, grapefruit, newspaper print and wheatgrass. Then cantaloupe and yellow peaches. The fruit notes grow muskier with time, and are then joined by hints of white chocolate and dunnage. It's reminiscent of old Longmorn and older cognac. Oak spice hits the palate first, then is trampled by gorgeously tart fruits, reflecting the nose's tropicals, citruses and stones. Then come the roses and an intensely mineral white wine. Salt appears after 45 minutes, as do mint leaves and Werther's Originals, but it never loses that vigorous tartness. The finish is loaded with mango, grapefruit and lime juices. Roses and butterscotch pudding. A hint of peach pit.

DILUTED TO ~50%abv, or >½ tsp of water per 30mL whiskey
The nose remains similar. Maybe some brighter fresh stone fruit notes. Some toffee. Guava rather than mango. A new fresh herbal note jumps with the palate's tart fruits. Thyme, rosemary, cardamom, lemons and grapefruits. A pop of chile heat, a spoon of cherry jam. The cherry note joins the tropical fruit and limes in the finish, underscored by that peach pit bitterness.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
This is fabulous. Its price made me want to hate it, but it's just too freaking lovable. Kristen took a sip and then said, "More." It's all about the fruits and the herbs and flowers and the minerals, rather than fortified wines or vanilla. As I mentioned in my nosing notes, this Redbreast reminded me of other gracefully matured spirits of even greater ages. Impressive cask management here. I'm going to say the Midleton crew was successful.

Availability - US and Europe
Pricing - $450 - $650
Rating - 92

Hanyu 15 year old 2000 Ichiro's Malt, The Final Vintage

After having produced sake for three centuries, the Akuto family founded the Hanyu distillery during World War II. Though they gained a post-war license to distill, Hanyu focused entirely on grain whisky until 1980 when two pot stills were installed. The distillery was closed in 2000, then dismantled in 2004. Ichiro Akuto bought up the remaining stock and has since released it under his brand, Ichiro's Malt. He also went into the family business in 2004 with the opening of his Chichibu distillery.

This will be my first Hanyu experience, and probably my last unless I can find a pour whenever I go back to Japan. Please don't look at the prices of Hanyus on the secondary market. They will make you cry.

Distillery: Hanyu
Bottler: Ichiro Akuto
Region: Japan, Saitama Prefecture
Age: 15 years (2000 - 2015)
Maturation: ???
Outturn: 3710
Alcohol by Volume: 46.5%
(from a bottle split)

NOTES
The nose begins with digestive biscuits, anise and mint. Loose genmaicha, cloves and an ultra-nutty sherry (Amontillado?). Fresh hay, dried parsley and dried thyme. Whiffs of mocha and toffee puddings appear after some time. The austere(!) palate starts off very nutty as well, but more on raw nuts than toasted ones. Perhaps walnuts and almonds. Hints of flowers and ginger beer. A bitter stout. It gradually develops tart citrus and hops notes after 30+ minutes in the glass. The long, warm finish has that hops note as well, along with citrus, flowers, molasses, black pepper and something almost smoky.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
This lean striking Hanyu drifts away from familiar single malt characteristics into dry sherry and Charbay-like distilled beer territory. Though I just typed those words, I'm not sure I agree with them, such are the unique qualities of this whisky. If you do get a chance to try this whisky, I highly encourage you not to add water since it turns tannic and papery with just a few drops. Ichiro may have found the best ABV right at 46.5%. In any case, I appreciate trying something so different, and I wish I had more of this to study!

Availability - Secondary market
Pricing - High
Rating - 88 (neat only)

Glen Flagler 100% Pot Still All-Malt Scotch (black label)

Ah yes, my first and last Glen Flagler. There were several of these "100% Pot Still" "All-Malt" releases, some apparently better than others. Here's a terrible picture of the bottle from which today's sample comes:

You may be wondering what the heck is a "Glen Flagler". It was a single malt distilled from 1965 to 1985 by Inver House in a set of pot stills next to the Garnheath grain whisky distillery in the Moffat facility in the Lowlands. That same facility also produced Killyloch and Islebrae single malts, though for an even shorter period of time. Though Glen Flagler was primarily dumped into Inver House's blended whiskies (Pinwhinnie!), it did escape intact in these All-Malt bottlings as well as about a dozen independent releases.

Distillery: Glen Flagler
Ownership: Inver House Distillers

Region: Lowlands
Age: ???

Maturation: ???

Alcohol by Volume: 40%
Chillfiltered? ???
Colorant added? probably not
(sample from a paid LASC event)

NOTES
The nose starts off light and fruity with a slight industrial edge, like a dusty Irish blend. There are yellow peaches, dried apricots, honey and limes. It picks up an OBE metallic edge with time in the glass. The palate has a minty creme note, followed by a lemon creme note. Touches of vanilla extract and brown sugar. More citrus notes with time, tilting towards freshly baked lemon bars. It also has a bit of the nose's industrial note that makes it read faintly smoky. The surprisingly long finish is moderately sweet and tart, think lemons and clementines. A hint of bitterness lends it some complexity.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
With its silky mouthfeel and generous finish, this Glen Flagler pulls all it can out of its 40%abv. It's a very pleasant and gentle whisky that probably would have found some success two decades after the distillery closed. The Lowlands could use a good whisky like this particular bottling which is considerably better than most (or all) official things coming out of Glenkinchie and Auchentoshan. I can't promise all Glen Flagler is this good, but I hope folks will open, enjoy and share the remaining bottles out there.

Availability - ???
Pricing - ???
Rating - 86

Croftengea 12 year old 2006 The Daily Dram Poisonous Frog Series

Yes, this one of those confusing independent bottlings that does not have a drawing of naked woman on the label. I know, you're asking yourself, "How am I supposed to know it's indie scotch without there being boobies on the bottle?"

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Maybe you can jerk it to the Poisonous Dart Frog instead.

source

I don't really know what these amphibians have to do with single malt whisky either, but if any whisky would be secreted by a poisonous frog it would be Loch Lomond. ❦❦❦❦❦  I love me some Croftengea, Loch Lomond's heavily-peated single malt, and this will be the oldest one I've had yet.

Distillery: Loch Lomond
Brand: Croftengea
Owner: Loch Lomond Distillery Company
Region: Highlands (Western)
Independent bottler: The Daily Dram
Range: Poisonous Frogs

Age: 12 years (2006 - 2018)

Maturation: bourbon cask

Alcohol by Volume: 51.6%
(from a bottle split)

NEAT
It noses like nothing else thanks to its dose of Loch Lomond Grimy Weird™. There's some manure and flowers (they have to grow somewhere). Lemons, grilled pineapple and citronella candles. It picks up hints of honeydew and vanilla bean with 30+ minutes in the glass. The palate's peat is very salty, as if it had been soaked in the ocean for decades. There's plenty of malt. A bit of whole wheat toast and burnt pie crust. Tapioca pudding and peanut butter(!). It finishes with a salty, mellow peat smoke, a good bitterness and tart citrus. Toasted barley and burnt pie crust.

DILUTED TO ~46%abv, or ¾ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
The nose gets toastier. Campfire, honey on biscuits, barley and moss. The palate picks up more herbal bitterness and Thai chiles. A little bit of vanilla frosting, but not too sweet. Some earth and metal in the background. It finishes with wood smoke, pepper, salt, sugar, earth and herbs.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
Since Ledaig had to go and get itself cleaned up two decades ago, Croftengea has become King of Crust Punk scotch (with no apologies to Finlaggan). The characteristics in this particular single cask probably shouldn't work together, but they do. In fact, it's a strange dirty delight. Water does calm it down a bit, polishing it up to something more commercially viable. If Loch Lomond doesn't become the next hip thing, then I look forward to Croftengea at ages 15-20. Meanwhile 8-12yrs will do just fine.

Availability - Some Continental Europe retailers
Pricing - €75-€85ish
Rating - 87

Springbank 18 year old 1996 Fresh Oloroso Sherry, cask 313-5

The first two Springbanks this week were light on cask influence and light in color. This third one, well...

Today's whisky is also the oldest of the three, and the most sherried. It was also part of that wave of Springbank single casks that burst through the $200 price ceiling, right on up to the $300 marker. From 2010-2013, we Americans were used to seeing 12-15yo single cask Springers selling for $90-$120, and 17s @ $150. By the end of 2015 we saw 19s going for $280-$300.

Those whiskies didn't sell fast, in fact I saw almost a half dozen of them on a retailer's shelves last month. (No I didn't buy any, even though they're even more expensive on the secondary market.) Quality-wise, some that I've tried have been very good. Will this one be among that number?

Distillery: Springbank

Brand: Springbank
Region: Campbeltown

Age: 18 years (November 1996 - March 2015)

Maturation: fresh oloroso sherry cask (a butt, probably)
Outturn: 528 bottles
Bottled for: Hanseatische Weinhandelsgesellschaft Bremen
Alcohol by Volume: 56.1%

Chillfiltered? No
Color added? No
(from a bottle split)

NEAT
Wow, this nose is huge. And yes, sulfurous, though more along appealing meaty lines (think Benrinnes/Craigellachie/Mortlach) than gunpowder. There are also dried apricots, lemon bars, dark chocolate and raspberry jam. It's also very peaty. Kristen said it smelled like the old Cabbage Patch Kid dolls. I thought she was going to say 'cabbage'. The palate is just as gregarious, but it's lighter on sulfur and heavier on smoke. There are dates, limes, chocolate jelly rings. Mangoes(!) and salt. Bitter herbs and spicy cigars. Dates and candied bacon in the finish, along with lime candy, bitter herbs and a moderate smoke level.

DILUTED TO ~46%abv, or 1⅓ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
The simpler nose focuses on smoke, moss, sulfur, charred beef and raisins. The palate ditches some of the sweetness and smoke. More on ginger and bitter herbs. Cayenne pepper, dried cranberries and currants. Smoke, honey, dried currants and Tabasco sauce in the finish.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
This was a monster compared to this week's other two Springbanks, an unhinged sherried terror that could stink up a room in seconds. I loved it. Gotta keep it neat to soak it all in. Is it a clean, flawless sherry cask? Nope. Does it result in an expansive, fulfilling sensory experience? Absolutely. Is it expensive? Yah.

Availability - ???
Pricing - probably around $300
Rating - 90

Springbank 10 year old Local Barley, 2017 release

I loved, LOVED, Springbank's 16 year old Local Barley release, and I'm certain I scored it too low. Then I liked, LIKED, their followup, the 11 year old Local Barley. So it's about time I wrote something about their third Local Barley.

If I'm not mistaken, the Local Barleys were to be a five-part series, and the fifth release dropped a couple months ago. While I hope the LBs continue, but I doubt I'm ever gong to buy another bottle. As with the 11yo, the 10's price tag did not inspire me to make a purchase. I don't blame that on Springbank, it's more an issue with their importer, and the irrational exuberance of the secondary market. But I am thankful to have gotten in on a bottle split of this third edition.

Distillery: Springbank
Brand: Springbank

Owner: Springbank Distillers Ltd.
Region: Campbeltown, on Well Close, just off of Longrow

Age: 10 years (June 2007 - November 2017)
Barley: Belgravia, from West Backs Fram

Maturation: 70% bourbon casks and 30% ex-sherry casks
Outturn: 9,000 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 57.3%
(from a bottle split)

NEAT
The nose is young and barleyful. Peach candy, flower blossoms and LOTS of citronella. Fresh basil and thyme. More moss and dried leaves than peat. The palate is very clean, fruity and pretty. Grapefruits, kiwis, pineapples and lemons. It never gets too sweet and it's nearly peat-free. The finish mirrors the palate, with maybe a little more tart citrus. A bit brief though.

DILUTED TO 46%abv, or 1½ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
Getting even closer to newmake now. Toasted barley, wort and eau de vie lead the nose. Cinnamon (cassia bark) and gentle wood smoke linger underneath. Eau de vie leads the palate as well. Then yeast, sweet apples, saltines, cucumber skin and cassia bark. The sweet finish is all barley, yeast and cassia.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
Can a whisky be cute? Because this is an adorable little baby whisky. Yeah it has a 10 year old age statement but it comes across about half that age, yet it's still a quality drink and I enjoy having a chance to have something from Springbank that's so close to the spirit. Like Monday's rum cask Springbank, it's missing depth/complexity/angles/etc though it's still very pleasant. A shame about the price. Again.

Availability - Secondary market
Pricing - probably near $200
Rating - 84

Springbank 15 year old 2003 Rum Cask Matured

It's been two whole months since I've posted something about Springbank and I'm sure you're all feeling the lack, so here's a week of Springbank to refill your thrill.

Today I'm reviewing the recently released small batch of cask strength rum-barreled 15yo Springbank. This bottling was hot stuff in Facebook group and secondary market circles, orbits separate from those in which the majority of whisky fans travel. So I don't know how excited everyone else is or was about the release, or how many people actually heard of it.

The bottle:

The deets:

Thank you to Secret Agent Man for the sample!

NEAT
The nose starts off with honeydew and mint leaves, with hints of flower blossoms and wood smoke in the background. With time, it picks up notes of gummi bears and old oily Highland malt whisky. The dirtier, earthier palate has more of that note that I'll call Clynelish-ish. It's also very zesty, with tangy limes and tart apples. A slight bready note and a little bit of light rum appear after a while. It has a well-balanced finish with moderate bitterness and sweetness, along with the tart limes and apples and just a hint of metal.

DILUTED TO ~46%abv, or ⅔ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
Now bolder and funkier, the nose shows more oils and metals; something darkly organic as well (more Worthy Park than Hampden if I'm going to be an asshole about it). Then cardamom, toasted oak and honey butter. The simplified palate has bits of salt, sugar, bitter herbs, earth and tart citrus. It finishes with citrus, herbal bitterness and mild sweetness.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
That these barrels remained mellow may be the key to the quality of this Springbank. It's crisp and almost refreshing, while also having a darker side that keeps it from sliding into Glenmorangie territory. Had I the standard 15yo, I would have certainly compared the two because I think I might like this one better. It's not the best thing coming from Campbeltown, as it lacks the complexity that even the standard 10 displays, but it's a very good drinker. Just beware of those prices!

Availability - Europe and the US
Pricing - $150-$200
Rating - 86