Bowmore 13 year old 1998 Asta Morris, cask AM003

(Bowmore cluster homepage)

This cluster's final nine Bowmore single malts were all distilled between 1991 and 1998. I know a lot of folks like Bowmore's early Aughts the best, but I tend to prefer this '91-'98 timeframe. Aside from this first pour, these remaining whiskies will have some age on them, with five cracking the 20 year mark.

Today's Bowmore was one of the earliest releases by Asta Morris, a Belgian independent bottling company started by former Malt Maniac, Bert Bruyneel. This is only the second Asta Morris I've tried, the first being a great 2000 Ardmore. I'm unable to moderate my expectations here...

Distillery: Bowmore
Owner: Beam Suntory
Region: Islay
Bottler: Asta Morris
Age: 13 years (1998 - 2011)
Maturation: maybe a bourbon barrel?
Cask #: AM0003
Outturn: 211 bottles
Alcohol by Volume: 49.7%
(from a purchased sample)

NOTES

The nose begins filled with salty ocean air, barley, brown sugar, shortbread and fresh kettle corn. Steel wool and kiln linger in the background. Notes of grapefruit, young calvados and apricot jam develop over the next 30 minutes.

The palate starts off with hay, hay smoke, wool, grapefruit and lychee. More citrus and perky bitterness appear soon after. It remains gently sweet and earthy as the smoke gradually tilts towards cigars.

It finishes with earth, stones, hay, limes, grapefruit and salt.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

If all young Islay single casks tasted like this I would be damned broke right now. The very low ABV worked in the whisky's favor, and I could not bring my pipette to alter the pour. Though this could have stayed in its cask for a few more years in order to tease out more complexity, that would have risked the oak elbowing in. My guess is most current producers would have risked that, but Asta Morris's conservative approach resulted in a crisp high quality Bowmore.

Availability - Sold out a decade ago
Pricing - ???
Rating - 89

Halfway through the Bowmore Cluster

(Bowmore cluster homepage)

I received an email this morning from a popular European whisky retailer promoting their newest wares. One of the new whiskies was a 17 year old 2003 Bowmore. Its price: €279.

This is why I won't be opening any Bowmore bottles for this cluster. Because I don't have any more Bowmore bottles. As this cluster will likely demonstrate, independently bottled Bowmore is of considerable quality, so a purchaser is very likely to possess some good brown poison when buying a bottle of the stuff. But the prices are unsettling. Yes, the bottlers are following the market, selling their whiskies at prices that people are indeed paying. But who are you people? And are you aware of the apocalyptic terror behind your FOMO? This situation is not about whisky anymore.

This isn't a plea for everyone to lower whisky prices for me. With producers — of both corporate and independent ventures — going Full Meth Dealer on their customer base, while pushing oak-filled often-neutered products, I'm not sure I'd rush back to buy anything other than daily drinkers, even if prices were to fall by 50%. I've already spent a lot of money on whisky over the past dozen years, and I possess more unopened bottles than I need, of whisky styles I like.

**RANT OVER**

This Bowmore cluster has been ruled by the sherry casks. Of my top three faves so far: one had little-to-moderate cask influence; one blended its strong spirit with a vibrant-but-controlled cask; and one was just freaking awesome. And all were bottled 5 to 9 years ago.

"But, sir," you say. "70% of the cluster's whiskies were bottled during that same time frame. What's your point?"

And I say, "Well, it's simple......Hey what the hell's that over there? SMOKE BOMB!" And you'll never know I ran away.

(If it makes you feel any better, the majority of the remaining Bowmores were bottled 2-4 years ago. Nothing newer, though. Prices have gotten so high that even bottle split commitments are getting hefty.)

Not too many of us expected the OBs to beat the IBs in this series, but their mean scores aren't too far apart so far. 82.8 versus 84.2. And they're in a virtual tie if I drop out the two lowest scores. Yet, the official bottlings, other than the 2012 Feis Ile superstar, have had limited palate appeal. Three were all cask, no spirit (the "all hat, no cattle" of the whisky world?), and another was something I'd rather forget. Fortunately for my tastebuds, but unfortunately for my math, the remaining nine Bowmores are all independently bottled single casks. So we may never know who would win.

One final observation before we all enjoy our weekends.

The peat level in these ten whiskies has varied widely from Bowmore to Bowmore, probably ranging between "2" and "7" in Serge Valentin's SGP scale. That's one of the pleasures of single casks, and especially of Bowmore itself. Sometimes it's a whisper, sometimes it's a shout. Perhaps life is less like a box of chocolates and more like a warehouse of Bowmore casks. Just lock me in there alone and go piss off. 

Er, I mean I would love to share it all with you. Happy Friday!

Bowmore 18 year old, Feis Ile 2020

(Bowmore cluster homepage)

Monday's glorious Feis Ile Bowmore may be this cluster's Whisky to Beat. Like that one, this Bowmore lived in sherry casks for some time, then spent an extra year in bottles when the 2020 festival was cancelled. Its outturn was four times the size of the 2012's thanks to Feis Ile's swelling attendance.

I'm just assuming I'll never attend Feis Ile. That's not due to the crowd of international taters nor the public drunkenness. Rather my 2012 Whisky FOMO developed into Whisky TOMO ("T" = "Thrill") before 2020. Now I get to try things years or decades late!

Anyway, here's some first fill sherry cask Bowmore. Let's see if it can compete with the 2012 release.

Distillery: Bowmore
Owner: Beam Suntory
Region: Islay
Age: at least 18 years
Bottled: 2020
Sold: 2021
Maturation: first-fill Oloroso sherry casks
Outturn: 3000 bottles
Bottled for: Feis Ile 2020
Alcohol by Volume: 51.2%
(from a bottle split)

NOTES

A very different whisky than Monday's 15yo. Peat doesn't take the lead in the nose, instead it starts with anise, butter and Luxardo cherry syrup. Then comes a mineral-like peat, which then takes 20+ minutes to get earthier. Elmer's glue and dates fill in the gaps. Diluting it to 46%abv, makes the nose peatier and more herbal. Chocolate and mint join the dates.

The palate is darker, smokier and pepperier than the nose. Some veg and grass, burnt and unburnt in the midground. Milk chocolate and salt. Fortified wine in the background. Smoke and sweetness are better balanced once the whisky is reduced to 46%abv. It also picks up limes, hay and fennel seed.

Lots of pepper and ash in the finish, with smaller notes of salt and dried berries around the edges. At 46%abv, the finish matches the palate.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

I wasn't shocked to discover that the casks in the 2020 bottling were much more active than those in the 2012. So it goes. Dilution helps this whisky out, putting things in balance, perhaps merging the blend better. There's a chance this would have fared better had it not been paired with Monday's whisky, but perspective is part of the cluster package.

Availability - Secondary market
Pricing - £300-£500
Rating - 86 (with dilution)

Bowmore 15 year old, Feis Ile 2012

(Bowmore cluster homepage)

This week brings a pair of official Feis Ile limited bottlings to the Bowmore cluster. Neither has a listed vintage but complex maths tell me that they fit into this part of the cluster. Both are of a very dark due, and from sherry casks, so I'm pairing them off against each other. After these, the remainder of the cluster belongs to the indies.

First up, Feis Ile 2012. For that hardy party, Bowmore rolled out two bottlings. One was a 26 year old. I have a sample of the other:

Distillery: Bowmore
Owner: Beam Suntory
Region: Islay
Age: at least 15 years
Bottled: 2012

Maturation: sherry cask(s)

Outturn: 750 bottles
Bottled for: Feis Ile 2012

Alcohol by Volume: 55.4%

(from a bottle split)

NOTES

I could tell you about the nose's nocino and fig notes, but they're far in the background. The real story here is how this Islay whisky smells like 1980s Brooklyn. Hot tar, bus exhaust, tennis balls, tire fires and some odd dumpster funk. I am strangely moved by this sense memory. It loses no power once reduced to 46%abv, but shifts styles a bit. More chalk and earth appear, as so dried stone fruits. Industrial smoke stacks loom largest.

The palate starts with big savory peat, charred beef and charred bell pepper skins. Cruciferous veg and chile oil in the middle, figs and limes in the back. It gets sweeter and figgier at 46%abv. The tart limes remain, as does a little bit chile oil. Plenty of kiln smoke surrounds it.

Peat, salt and savory fill the massive finish. Bits of lime zest, mint leaf and basil leaf add color. Once the whisky is dropped to 46%abv, the finish gets sweeter, simpler and friendlier.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

This whisky stole my heart. Even leaving aside the personal connections, I adore this colossal style that could easily take on the southern Islay trio. Yeah there are sherry casks involved, but they cannot keep up with the powerful spirit. Please Bowmore, lie to me and tell me you have not been drowning casks like this in the 15yo "Darkest" for the past decade and a half.

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - ???
Rating - 91

Mathilda and Papa Eat Kit Kats, Episode VIII

 The eighth in a series of relevant tasting notes!

Bowmore 18 year old Manzanilla Cask, The Vintner's Trilogy

(Bowmore cluster homepage)

Bowmore's The Vintner's Trilogy was an interesting secondary maturation experiment that started before the single malt market got hot. All three whiskies spent their first 13 years (why 13?) in bourbon barrels before getting re-casked into grapey vessels. The 27 year old, released in 2018, spent 14 years in port casks, and I sincerely hope no '80s distillate made its way into that parcel. The 26 year old, released in 2017, may have been distilled around the same time as the 27, and had a second 13 year experience in French wine barriques. The baby of the bunch was today's 18 year old, which spent five years in Manzanilla casks.

More things:

1. I don't know its actual distillation vintage, but basic math tells me 1999-ish.
2. This is the only one of the trio I wanted to try.
3. This is the only one of the trio I was able to source.

Distillery: Bowmore
Owner: Beam Suntory
Region: Islay
Age: at least 18 years
Bottled: 2017
Maturation: 13 years in bourbon barrels + 5 years in Manzanilla casks
Outturn: ?????
Alcohol by Volume: 52.5%
(from a bottle split)

NOTES

The nose begins well, with pistachios, walnuts and green plums up front, brown sugar and dried apricots in the back. Maybe some anise-loaded digestif as well. It reads more metallic than smoky. Once the whisky is reduced to 46%abv, the brown sugar and fruit move forward, while the nuts back off a smidge. Still, not much peat to be found.

The palate reads much sweeter than Manzanilla. Candied pecans, mint candy and ginger beer start things off. A light, dusty smoke appears next, followed by hints of toffee and toasted oak. At 46%abv, it's all almond brittle, lemons and vanilla bean.

It finishes with lemon and ginger sodas, toasted oak, woodier smoke and marzipan. When diluted to 46%abv, it matches the reduced palate with a hint of ash at the tail.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Two things were immediately apparent with this Bowmore. Firstly, it was a very easy (though simple) drinker. Secondly, it may be the least peaty Bowmore I've ever tried. The palate was a bit too sweet for my lips, which is weird because Manzanilla ain't no sweetie. Perhaps the casks were heavily charred? The nose was much more interesting and complex, and left me wishing that palate had matched it better. I have a feeling those casks buried some of this whisky's character, including its Islay heart.

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - $127.99 back in 2017
Rating - 84

Bowmore 15 year old 2001 Old Particular, cask DL 11658 for K&L Wine Merchants

(Bowmore cluster homepage)

After two great sherry cask 2001 Bowmores, I now present a 2001 Bowmore from a bourbon cask. Though I wish I could do another half dozen of these 2001s, this will indeed be the last one for this cluster. It's another K&L exclusive, bottled by the other half of the Laing family, and it rumbles in at 58.5%abv. I'm game.

Distillery: Bowmore
Owner: Beam Suntory
Region: Islay

Bottler: Douglas Laing
Range: Old Particular
Exclusive to: K&L Wine Merchants
Age: 15 years (October 2001 - April 2017)
Maturation: bourbon barrel
Cask #: DL 11658

Outturn: 185 bottles
Alcohol by Volume: 58.5%

(sample from gridleysredemption, thank you sir!)

Note: Because of the multiple dilutions, these notes will be listed via my old school method. 

NEAT

Whew, the nose comes in raw and vegetal, with lots of grass and weed (ha!). Grain, hot coals and a whiff of citronella candle follow next. It picks up some mild beach and butterscotch notes with time.

The palate begins hot, ashy and bitter. And there's lots of grass and burlap. Meanwhile, lychee and kiwi juices float beneath it all.

Oof, super bitter finish too. Wormwood, lemongrass, eucalyptus and ash. The fruit goes bitterer as well.

DILUTED TO 50%abv

A clearer, richer peat enters the nose, followed by oats, citronella candles and ganja. Hints of tree bark and vanilla bean stay in the background.

The palate reads more pulled together. Less bitter, more zesty tart citrus (or tart citrus zest?). Mild peat and cinnamon syrup fill in the midground.

It finishes with lemon candy, smoke and a hint of lychee.

DILUTED TO 46%abv

The nose shifts back to a rawer style of grains, grasses, kiln and peanuts.

The palate reads very faint for 46%abv, with mild notes of citrus, pepper, lychee, toasted oak and vanilla.

Tarter and bitterer than the palate, the finish still holds onto some vanilla and lemon.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

My nose and palate prefer this at 50%abv. It still reads about half its age, but it's a better focused winter pour at that strength. Though some vanilla snuck into the whisky, the barrel still feels multi-refill-ish. That's no sin, but the other five 2001 Bowmores (three of which were K&L's) I've reviewed here were all pretty damned good. This is merely, "yeah it's good for a couple drinks." I consumed my two pours, and now I'm going to assign a number to a fluid that people worked hard to produce.

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - $89.99 back in 2017
Rating - 83