...where distraction is the main attraction.

Wednesday, March 11, 2020

Glen Flagler 100% Pot Still All-Malt Scotch (black label)

Ah yes, my first and last Glen Flagler. There were several of these "100% Pot Still" "All-Malt" releases, some apparently better than others. Here's a terrible picture of the bottle from which today's sample comes:


You may be wondering what the heck is a "Glen Flagler". It was a single malt distilled from 1965 to 1985 by Inver House in a set of pot stills next to the Garnheath grain whisky distillery in the Moffat facility in the Lowlands. That same facility also produced Killyloch and Islebrae single malts, though for an even shorter period of time. Though Glen Flagler was primarily dumped into Inver House's blended whiskies (Pinwhinnie!), it did escape intact in these All-Malt bottlings as well as about a dozen independent releases.


Distillery: Glen Flagler
Ownership: Inver House Distillers
Region: Lowlands
Age: ???
Maturation: ???
Alcohol by Volume: 40%
Chillfiltered? ???
Colorant added? probably not
(sample from a paid LASC event)

NOTES
The nose starts off light and fruity with a slight industrial edge, like a dusty Irish blend. There are yellow peaches, dried apricots, honey and limes. It picks up an OBE metallic edge with time in the glass. The palate has a minty creme note, followed by a lemon creme note. Touches of vanilla extract and brown sugar. More citrus notes with time, tilting towards freshly baked lemon bars. It also has a bit of the nose's industrial note that makes it read faintly smoky. The surprisingly long finish is moderately sweet and tart, think lemons and clementines. A hint of bitterness lends it some complexity.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
With its silky mouthfeel and generous finish, this Glen Flagler pulls all it can out of its 40%abv. It's a very pleasant and gentle whisky that probably would have found some success two decades after the distillery closed. The Lowlands could use a good whisky like this particular bottling which is considerably better than most (or all) official things coming out of Glenkinchie and Auchentoshan. I can't promise all Glen Flagler is this good, but I hope folks will open, enjoy and share the remaining bottles out there.

Availability - ???
Pricing - ???
Rating - 86

Monday, March 9, 2020

Croftengea 12 year old 2006 The Daily Dram Poisonous Frog Series

Yes, this one of those confusing independent bottlings that does not have a drawing of naked woman on the label. I know, you're asking yourself, "How am I supposed to know it's indie scotch without there being boobies on the bottle?"

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Maybe you can jerk it to the Poisonous Dart Frog instead.

source
I don't really know what these amphibians have to do with single malt whisky either, but if any whisky would be secreted by a poisonous frog it would be Loch Lomond. ❦❦❦❦❦  I love me some Croftengea, Loch Lomond's heavily-peated single malt, and this will be the oldest one I've had yet.


Distillery: Loch Lomond
Brand: Croftengea
Owner: Loch Lomond Distillery Company
Region: Highlands (Western)
Independent bottler: The Daily Dram
Range: Poisonous Frogs
Age: 12 years (2006 - 2018)
Maturation: bourbon cask
Alcohol by Volume: 51.6%
(from a bottle split)

NEAT
It noses like nothing else thanks to its dose of Loch Lomond Grimy Weird™. There's some manure and flowers (they have to grow somewhere). Lemons, grilled pineapple and citronella candles. It picks up hints of honeydew and vanilla bean with 30+ minutes in the glass. The palate's peat is very salty, as if it had been soaked in the ocean for decades. There's plenty of malt. A bit of whole wheat toast and burnt pie crust. Tapioca pudding and peanut butter(!). It finishes with a salty, mellow peat smoke, a good bitterness and tart citrus. Toasted barley and burnt pie crust.

DILUTED TO ~46%abv, or ¾ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
The nose gets toastier. Campfire, honey on biscuits, barley and moss. The palate picks up more herbal bitterness and Thai chiles. A little bit of vanilla frosting, but not too sweet. Some earth and metal in the background. It finishes with wood smoke, pepper, salt, sugar, earth and herbs.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
Since Ledaig had to go and get itself cleaned up two decades ago, Croftengea has become King of Crust Punk scotch (with no apologies to Finlaggan). The characteristics in this particular single cask probably shouldn't work together, but they do. In fact, it's a strange dirty delight. Water does calm it down a bit, polishing it up to something more commercially viable. If Loch Lomond doesn't become the next hip thing, then I look forward to Croftengea at ages 15-20. Meanwhile 8-12yrs will do just fine.

Availability - Some Continental Europe retailers
Pricing - €75-€85ish
Rating - 87

Friday, March 6, 2020

Springbank 18 year old 1996 Fresh Oloroso Sherry, cask 313-5

The first two Springbanks this week were light on cask influence and light in color. This third one, well...

Today's whisky is also the oldest of the three, and the most sherried. It was also part of that wave of Springbank single casks that burst through the $200 price ceiling, right on up to the $300 marker. From 2010-2013, we Americans were used to seeing 12-15yo single cask Springers selling for $90-$120, and 17s @ $150. By the end of 2015 we saw 19s going for $280-$300.

Those whiskies didn't sell fast, in fact I saw almost a half dozen of them on a retailer's shelves last month. (No I didn't buy any, even though they're even more expensive on the secondary market.) Quality-wise, some that I've tried have been very good. Will this one be among that number?


Distillery: Springbank
Brand: Springbank
Region: Campbeltown
Age: 18 years (November 1996 - March 2015)
Maturation: fresh oloroso sherry cask (a butt, probably)
Outturn: 528 bottles
Bottled for: Hanseatische Weinhandelsgesellschaft Bremen
Alcohol by Volume: 56.1%
Chillfiltered? No
Color added? No
(from a bottle split)

NEAT
Wow, this nose is huge. And yes, sulfurous, though more along appealing meaty lines (think Benrinnes/Craigellachie/Mortlach) than gunpowder. There are also dried apricots, lemon bars, dark chocolate and raspberry jam. It's also very peaty. Kristen said it smelled like the old Cabbage Patch Kid dolls. I thought she was going to say 'cabbage'. The palate is just as gregarious, but it's lighter on sulfur and heavier on smoke. There are dates, limes, chocolate jelly rings. Mangoes(!) and salt. Bitter herbs and spicy cigars. Dates and candied bacon in the finish, along with lime candy, bitter herbs and a moderate smoke level.

DILUTED TO ~46%abv, or 1⅓ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
The simpler nose focuses on smoke, moss, sulfur, charred beef and raisins. The palate ditches some of the sweetness and smoke. More on ginger and bitter herbs. Cayenne pepper, dried cranberries and currants. Smoke, honey, dried currants and Tabasco sauce in the finish.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
This was a monster compared to this week's other two Springbanks, an unhinged sherried terror that could stink up a room in seconds. I loved it. Gotta keep it neat to soak it all in. Is it a clean, flawless sherry cask? Nope. Does it result in an expansive, fulfilling sensory experience? Absolutely. Is it expensive? Yah.

Availability - ???
Pricing - probably around $300
Rating - 90

Wednesday, March 4, 2020

Springbank 10 year old Local Barley, 2017 release

I loved, LOVED, Springbank's 16 year old Local Barley release, and I'm certain I scored it too low. Then I liked, LIKED, their followup, the 11 year old Local Barley. So it's about time I wrote something about their third Local Barley.

If I'm not mistaken, the Local Barleys were to be a five-part series, and the fifth release dropped a couple months ago. While I hope the LBs continue, but I doubt I'm ever gong to buy another bottle. As with the 11yo, the 10's price tag did not inspire me to make a purchase. I don't blame that on Springbank, it's more an issue with their importer, and the irrational exuberance of the secondary market. But I am thankful to have gotten in on a bottle split of this third edition.


Distillery: Springbank
Brand: Springbank
Owner: Springbank Distillers Ltd.
Region: Campbeltown, on Well Close, just off of Longrow
Age: 10 years (June 2007 - November 2017)
Barley: Belgravia, from West Backs Fram
Maturation: 70% bourbon casks and 30% ex-sherry casks
Outturn: 9,000 bottles
Alcohol by Volume: 57.3%
(from a bottle split)

NEAT
The nose is young and barleyful. Peach candy, flower blossoms and LOTS of citronella. Fresh basil and thyme. More moss and dried leaves than peat. The palate is very clean, fruity and pretty. Grapefruits, kiwis, pineapples and lemons. It never gets too sweet and it's nearly peat-free. The finish mirrors the palate, with maybe a little more tart citrus. A bit brief though.

DILUTED TO 46%abv, or 1½ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
Getting even closer to newmake now. Toasted barley, wort and eau de vie lead the nose. Cinnamon (cassia bark) and gentle wood smoke linger underneath. Eau de vie leads the palate as well. Then yeast, sweet apples, saltines, cucumber skin and cassia bark. The sweet finish is all barley, yeast and cassia.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
Can a whisky be cute? Because this is an adorable little baby whisky. Yeah it has a 10 year old age statement but it comes across about half that age, yet it's still a quality drink and I enjoy having a chance to have something from Springbank that's so close to the spirit. Like Monday's rum cask Springbank, it's missing depth/complexity/angles/etc though it's still very pleasant. A shame about the price. Again.

Availability - Secondary market
Pricing - probably near $200
Rating - 84

Monday, March 2, 2020

Springbank 15 year old 2003 Rum Cask Matured

It's been two whole months since I've posted something about Springbank and I'm sure you're all feeling the lack, so here's a week of Springbank to refill your thrill.

Today I'm reviewing the recently released small batch of cask strength rum-barreled 15yo Springbank. This bottling was hot stuff in Facebook group and secondary market circles, orbits separate from those in which the majority of whisky fans travel. So I don't know how excited everyone else is or was about the release, or how many people actually heard of it.

The bottle:

The deets:

Thank you to Secret Agent Man for the sample!

NEAT
The nose starts off with honeydew and mint leaves, with hints of flower blossoms and wood smoke in the background. With time, it picks up notes of gummi bears and old oily Highland malt whisky. The dirtier, earthier palate has more of that note that I'll call Clynelish-ish. It's also very zesty, with tangy limes and tart apples. A slight bready note and a little bit of light rum appear after a while. It has a well-balanced finish with moderate bitterness and sweetness, along with the tart limes and apples and just a hint of metal.

DILUTED TO ~46%abv, or ⅔ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
Now bolder and funkier, the nose shows more oils and metals; something darkly organic as well (more Worthy Park than Hampden if I'm going to be an asshole about it). Then cardamom, toasted oak and honey butter. The simplified palate has bits of salt, sugar, bitter herbs, earth and tart citrus. It finishes with citrus, herbal bitterness and mild sweetness.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
That these barrels remained mellow may be the key to the quality of this Springbank. It's crisp and almost refreshing, while also having a darker side that keeps it from sliding into Glenmorangie territory. Had I the standard 15yo, I would have certainly compared the two because I think I might like this one better. It's not the best thing coming from Campbeltown, as it lacks the complexity that even the standard 10 displays, but it's a very good drinker. Just beware of those prices!

Availability - Europe and the US
Pricing - $150-$200
Rating - 86

Friday, February 28, 2020

Laphroaig PX Cask

During that fateful second evening at Malt Bar South Park three years ago, Odin and I discussed the progression of Ardbeg's and Laphroaig's whisky over the past four decades. In fact, we may have segued from laughing about those two Islays' recent wacky casketry and spirit shifts to talking about Kavalan, then progressing to Omar. Thus when I finally got around to scheduling my tasting of two Omars, I elected to partner them with a current Laphroaig.

Laphroaig PX Cask is sold in big ol' litre bottles at many travel retail stores. Is it aged entirely in Pedro Ximémez casks? Of course not, that's not Modern Laphroaig. It's basically Triple Wood, but ending up in PX casks, rather than Oloroso, after it passes through "American oak" casks and Beam's beloved quarter casks.

I tried this Laphroaig once before at a whisky event seven years ago. My old notes list anise, tar, salt, sugar and sherry. May I find more of the earlier notes and fewer of the latter...

Distillery: Laphroaig
Owner: Beam Suntory
Region: Islay
Age: NAS
Maturation: "American oak" casks, then quarter casks, then Pedro Ximémez casks
Alcohol by Volume: 48%
Chill-filtration? ???
Caramel colored? Probably
(from a sample pilfered at a recent event, thank you Curtis!)

NEAT
There's lots of rubber in the nose, then tar. Then more rubber. Mixed berry jam and burning tires. A hint of smoked salmon. More rubber. It's as if someone made brandied cherries with the lighter version of Hampden rum and went overboard with the sugar. A lot of the same in the palate: ash, rubber, sugar, burnt grape jam, some sugar-doped rum. Imitation vanilla extract. A sickly sweet edge builds with time. The finish is very peppery, very ashy and very sweet. A big dose of cheap cream sherry.

DILUTED TO ~43%abv, or ⅔ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
The nose... Oh god, that was a bad idea. Buttery baby poop and eggy sulfur. Mint candy, simple syrup and brine. The palate is tannic as hell and brutally sugary. There's some ash and bitterness too. The finish matches the palate, regrettably.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
This is the worst Laphroaig I've ever had the displeasure of trying. At least the Select is just a *shrug*, only offensive on principle. With a nose more rubbery than a clown's and a finish sweeter than a bottom shelf liqueur, the PX Cask is drinkable when neat, if you've previously burnt your tastebuds off your face. Once diluted, it's gross. It's unfortunate. It's punishment. It made me nauseous. Omar wins the week.

Availability - Travel retail
Pricing - why
Rating - 65 (neat only; it swims in the 30s)

Wednesday, February 26, 2020

Omar Sherry Type Taiwanese Single Malt


There's Omar Little. And here's a little Omar:


I bought this sample during Master of Malt's final days of US shipping. Some perspective was going to be needed once the Bourbon Type bottle was opened. Well, that 700mL has been opened, and enjoyed. The world (or just I) was ready for a comparison of the Sherry and Bourbon Types.

Distillery: Nantou
Owner: TTL, which is owned by the ROC
Brand: Omar
Region: Nantou, Taiwan
Age: 7 years or younger
Maturation: sherry casks
Bottling Date: 2018 or earlier
Alcohol by Volume: 46%
Chillfiltration? ???
Colorant? ???
(from a purchased sample)

NEAT
There are no generic raisiny notes in the nose, instead it's a little meaty: beef broth and jerky, ground mustard seed. There's also plenty of yeast and spun sugar. Some maple syrup and pencil eraser. The palate has some of the nose's mustard seed note, but then heads off in its own direction. Lemon juice and a big crazy bitterness (from the spirit and the oak) follow bursts of ginger ale and cream soda. Then walnuts, a slight mineral note and more vanilla than the Bourbon Type. It finishes with a woody bitterness, or a bitter woodiness, then some vanilla + sugar. Minerals and walnuts in the background.

DILUTED TO ~40%abv, or < 1 tsp of water per 30mL whisky
The nose becomes nuttier, with a hint of cherry candy. A little bit of maple syrup. Less beef, more mustard. Similar to the neat version, but quieter, the palate does add some tangy dried apricots, dried cranberries and oak spice. Less bitterness but still tannic. It finishes yeasty and tannic, sweeter than when neat. Some maple and vanilla.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
On a positive note this isn't a boring sherried thing. Yet it's woodier and more vanilla-ed than the Bourbon Type. I think it improves when diluted as all its facets start tilting towards an American whiskey-style at 40%abv. Overall there's just too much oak extraction present in this expression, especially when compared to the Bourbon Type. I recognize the unevenness of this comparison, a full bottle of one and a small sample of the other, but I'm not sure how many pours of the Sherry Type I'd desire beyond one.

Availability - Asia, Europe and the United States
Pricing - $35 to $95, depending on the country
Rating - 77