Three Macallan single malts from Signatory Vintage

Macallan, or rather "Speyside (M)", has become hot stuff in the indie bottler scene with specific thanks to Signatory Vintage. At some point the Symington squad scored many casks from Edrington's cash cow. As of today, Signatory has released at least 45 different Speyside (M)s across three different ranges — Cask Strength Collection, 100 Proof Edition, and Small Batch Edition — in less than two years, all (or most) of which had sherry cask maturation.

This will be the first time I have reviewed a Signatory 100 Proof Edition, a range that instantly created its own rung on the single malt pricing ladder, offering age-stated (usually over 10yrs) high-strength, oft-sherried, very small batch single malts at less than 60 euros. They beat everyone to it. And the quality is there, I can attest to that.

Signatory has also expanded their Small Batch Edition range which offers single malts older than the 100 Proofers, with a less fiery ABV, at a slightly higher price.

The Cask Strength Collection continues to soar, though many of the range's whiskies have had secondary maturations.

Today I will indulge in three Speyside (M)s, one from each of these ranges. The first is an official "Things I Really Drink", a 14 year old 2010 (1st and 2nd fill oloroso butts) from the Small Batch range, a bottle I split halfsies with the Doctors Springbank. The second is a 13yo (1st and refill oloroso butts) from the 100 Proof Edition range. And the third, an 18 year old first-fill oloroso butt, comes from the classic Cask Strength Collection.

I probably have not tried three Macallans in one night in nearly 15 years. Things were different then.

THREE MACALLAN MATES

Speyside (M) 14-year-old 2010 Signatory Small Batch #16 48.2%abv	Speyside (M) 13-year-old 2011 Signatory 100 Proof #27 57.1%abv	Speyside (M) 18-year-old 2005 Signatory Cask Strength cask DRU17/A106#5 57.7%abv
The nose offers mint, chocolate, and walnuts up top; dried cherries, dried raspberries, and a hint of dunnage underneath. It gets more milk chocolatey with time. It picks up more dunnage funk once diluted to 43%abv. Dark chocolate and coal mix with dried raspberries and vanilla bean.	The nose, very different than the 14's, dishes out carob, dried blueberries, baklava, cherry bubblegum, toffee pudding, and a whiff of gunpowder. The gunpowder expands once the whisky is dropped to 43%abv. The nose gets more leathery, briny, and meaty.	The deepest nose of the three. Raw cocoa, asphalt, dried cherries, and black currant jam up front, freshly polished leather shoes in the middle, toffee pudding in the back. At 43%abv, it feels darker (if that makes sense) with dunnage, steel wool, pine sap, and orange oil.
This palate goes a direction different than the nose. Savory dried herbs, metal, and cocoa appear first, followed bitterer herbs, toasty oak, dusty smoke. At 43%abv mixed nuts take over, followed by fresher berries and a touch of soot.	No gunpowder on the neat palate. It's actually quite plummy at first, but then shifts gears: tobacco, raw walnut, raw almonds, salt, pepper, and very dry sherry. Diluted to 43%abv, the whisky takes on a gentle honeyed sweetness, with Cow Tales candy and a hint of gunpowder.	Loads of tobacco, metal, and earth arrive in the palate first, followed by blood oranges, dried leaves, and a wormwood bitterness. This palate also gets sweeter at 43%abv, with banana pudding, sugar cookies, toffee pudding, and mint leaf.
The finish follows the un-sweet path with raw walnuts, dried herbs, and tart limes. When dropped to 43%abv, the whisky gets slightly sweeter, with fresh berries being balanced out with salt and pepper.	Raw nuts, salt, pepper, and that very dry sherry finish it off. It switches to honey, salt, and ash once diluted to 50%abv.	It finishes smoky, leafy, earthy, with raw walnuts and herbal bitterness. The 43%abv finish matches the palate, then adds a vibrant peppery zing.
Comments: I am enjoying my 350mL! The whisky has the right bottling strength, though slight dilution doesn't hurt a thing. The prettier nose and grittier palate offer a great contrast, with neither besting the other. Gimme a little dunnage and soot in my Macallan anytime.	Comments: Slightly dirty, slightly wild, with an impressive dryness (when neat) this Macallan has more fight to it than Edrington would ever allow in their standard releases. As noted above, this reads like the cask was seasoned with something closer to Manzanilla than Oloroso, which is a good thing.	Comments: It's a heavy one, a beast that only shows its sensitive side once doused with water. The surprising earthiness gives the neat finish some Kilkerran vibes. The fruits' cameo appearances push this whisky to the big 9-0.
Rating: 86	Rating: 87	Rating: 90 (when neat)

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Ignoring the fact that one could have bought all three of these terrific bottles together for less than the price of one bottle of the official 18......actually, I can't ignore that. It's crazy crazy crazy crazy. Macallan fans, WTF? Why do you put up with Edrington's showily bloated pricing, for heavily-diluted massive-batched whisky, may I add? You know what, never mind. I'm going to do a three-Macallan-OB Taste Off next, just to see where it takes me.

Dalwhinnie 30 year old 1989 Diageo Special Releases 2020

I'm not sure how many more Dalwhinnie reviews are possible, so I'm happy to have the opportunity to include at least one oldie from that distillery on this site.

Newer readers may not realize this, but Diageo's "Special Releases" were once actually special, not ten year old whatsits in wine casks. Both the 2019 and 2020 sets included a 30-year-old 'Whinnie. Today's 2020 release is the more naked of the two, having lived in only refill hoggies. Gimme gimme gimme.

Distillery: Dalwhinnie

Ownership: Diageo
Region: Highlands (Central-ish)

Age: at least 30 years (1989-2020)

Maturation: refill American oak hogsheads

Outturn: 6978 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 51.9%

Chillfiltered? No

e150a added? No
(from a bottle split)

NEAT

Surprise! This isn't your average Dalwhinnie nose. It's chalky and lightly earthy, with caramel, shortbread biscuits, and a hint of butterscotch. Then, baked bananas and grilled pears. A mix of lemon cake and clove cigarettes appears after 45 minutes of air. The palate arrives fruitier than the nose, with guava, limes, and canned peaches. Hints of vanilla and dusty smoke drift through the background. Lightly sweet and lightly bitter, the finish starts with lemon curd, then tilts towards lemon juice after some time.

DILUTED to ~46%abv, or ¾ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

Lemon cake, shortbread biscuits, dandelions, and strawberry pie filling on the nose. The sweeter and tangier palate narrows a bit, but adds passion fruit to the guava. The tart and sweet finish matches the palate.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

This spirit is different than contemporary Dalwhinnie, and I prefer it. Both wilder and more varied, it delivers a fuller and more interesting drinking experience. Though this 30yo was not a home run, I wanted more of it because there's more "there" there. (Excellent sentence, man.) And though I don't make outright recommendations on this site, I do encourage anyone with a bottle of old Dalwhinnie (except for the 15) to open it up and indulge in a style that doesn't exist anymore.

Availability - Secondary market?

Pricing - ???
Rating - 88

Dalwhinnie Distillery Exclusive, batch 1

Because the Buchanan and/or Black & White blends have always been popular somewhere on this blue Earth, Diageo (DCL, SMD, UD, etc.) has very rarely released Dalwhinnie casks into the blender/independent marketplace. The conglomerate has also released very few cask strength versions or unique age-stated bottlings of the Cairngorms-adjacent distillery. As a result, official NAS malts are mostly what curious drinkers have had access to.

Today, I'm going to try Batch #1 of Dalwhinnie's NAS Distillery Exclusive series, bottled in 2022. I don't know much more about it, other than it was bottled in a very non-Diageo 48%abv/NC/NCF format. The 15yo will serve as its drinking partner.

Distillery: Dalwhinnie

Ownership: Diageo
Region: Highlands (Central-ish)

Age: ???

Maturation: ???
Bottling year: 2022

Outturn: 7500 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 48%

Chillfiltered? No

e150a added? No
(from a bottle split)

NEAT

The nose starts with flowers by the ocean, apricot jam, and peach gummy bears. It picks up smaller notes of barley and white chocolate with time. The lightly sweet, but very tangy palate leads with apples and limes up front. Roses, apricot jam, and orange marmalade soak into the midground, while ginger beer stays in the back. It finishes simply with limes, apricots, and ginger beer.

DILUTED to ~40%abv, or 1¼ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

There's a gentler mix of peach skins, roses, and white chocolate on the nose, with hints of raspberry jam and caramel in the background. The palate matches the nose well with roses and fresh berries in the first sip, fresh ginger, lemon juice, and caramel in later sips. It finishes sweetly with ginger beer and lemon candy.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Another very pretty Dalwhinnie. While I appreciate its better presentation, this exclusive batch reads simpler and softer than the current 15-year-old. It's a friendly, casual pour that can take a few drops of water, if desired. It's definitely something that would appeal to a distillery tourist who wants something "smooth". Contemporary Dalwhinnie single malt is indeed a gentle spirit.

Availability - Sold out

Pricing - allegedly £95 in 2022
Rating - 83

Dalwhinnie 15 year old (1980s) versus Dalwhinnie 15 year old (2024)

After the distillery's founding in 1897, Dalwhinnie passed through the hands of five different ownership groups over its first 29 years, ultimately landing in DCL's (proto-Diageo's) large portfolio where it has since served as an ingredient of the Buchanan and Black & White blends.

Dalwhinnie 15-year-old was one of Diageo's original Classic Malts, entering the market in the 1980s. Over one million Dalwhinnie 15yo bottles are sold each year, often landing it among Diageo's top 5 best-selling single malts. It was also one of my first regular single malts (~20 years ago) because Trader Joe's used to sling it for $39.99!

Before I opened this bottle a couple months ago, more than a decade had passed since I'd last tasted the 15. The first thing I noticed was how easily the Dalwhinnie from my new bottle drank. Yes, the whisky had been chillfiltered and diluted down to 43%abv, but its style also matched the malt's advertised slogan, "The Gentle Spirit". Two years prior, I'd also taken part in a bottle split of the original 15yo bottling from the 1980s. It is now time to match them up.

A quick note before the Taste Off commences: These two Dalwhinnie 15s are not the same spirit. The distillery's worm tub and condensers were replaced in 1986, then the distillery went through further updates six years later. On-site maltings were shut down in 1968, so the '80s version may include some of that previous era's spirit as well.

A Dalwhinnie Duo

Dalwhinnie 15 year old bottled in the 1980s 40%abv	Dalwhinnie 15 year old bottled in 2024 43%abv
The nose begins with wet old oak and wet roots. Maybe a funky dunnage hint too. Pencil shavings, limes, and mint leaf emerge after about a half hour.	The nose starts off very doughy with soft notes of saline, anise, and orange peel, adding Midori liqueur, roses, dandelions, and lemon candy after some time in the glass.
A odd mix of bitter wet cardboard and stout arrives first in the palate, followed by vanilla, brown sugar, sawdust, dusty smoke, and a hint of lemon.	First up in the palate: roasted barley, roasted coffee beans, and semi-sweet chocolate. A bold sweet orange note slowly morphs into bitter peels after a while.
It finishes briefly with iron, sawdust, and brown sugar.	A cooling sensation spreads across one's tongue in the finish, bringing with it sweet and tart oranges and a touch of mocha.
Comments: This may have had some Old Bottle action affecting it. Or United Distillers had a whole bunch of funky musty casks in the Dalwhinnie warehouse, 40ish years ago. No matter the reason, this '80s single malt reads like a '60s/'70s cheap blend. That's not a complete insult since '60s/'70s cheap blends are better than many top shelf blends today.	Comments: Sitting down and focusing on this whisky, I find it better than I'd expected. This bottle has served as my casual single malt for the past two or three months, pleasant but mostly forgettable. But now the nose has a very pretty arrival, and it doesn't die out after an hour in the glass. The presentation does the palate a disservice, likely choking off angles and layers, but the flavors that remain are comfy.
Rating: 73	Rating: 84

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Chillfiltration and dilution do not help either of these Dalwhinnies, but the newer bottling weathers it much better. Is that because the liquid is fresher in the newer bottle, or do the extra 3 points of alcohol help? A little from column A and a little from column B, most likely. The 1980s version is also much darker than the new one, and that certainly ain't due to first-fill sherry casks. In a possibly unpopular move, I'm going to say the newer version is constructed better than the older one. Please forgive me.

Four age-stated Hakata whiskies

What exactly is Hakata Whisky? I sent emails to a couple official folks last year, but never received a response, so it's time to source second-to-thirdhand answers from the internets. Please keep that in mind.

The spirit is distilled in Japan, specifically the Fukuoka region, by Hikari-Shuzo Co. Ltd, a shōchū producer. It's a single-distilled spirit made from barley, a portion of which is fermented with the wonderful Koji mold, the happy critter than helps make shōchū and sake. The remaining portion may be unmalted barley, which may or may not make up two-thirds of the mashbill. Despite what the official site says, today's whiskies were not distilled at Hikari Distillery, a facility that opened only 4 or 5 years ago.

So is Hakata aged shōchū? I don't know. In the past, Japan has resisted applying the "Whisky" label to aged spirits distilled like shōchū. But America has not hesitated to do so.

Hakata's standard range includes today's 10yo, 12yo, 16yo, and 18yo, all bottled at 42%abv and aged in sherry casks. By the looks of the liquid, those were some very wet casks.

The Fukuoka Four

Hakata 10 year old 42%abv	Hakata 12 year old 42%abv	Hakata 16 year old 42%abv	Hakata 18 year old 42%abv
The nose is an utter sherry blast, fruitier than Oloroso, but drier than PX. There are some stewed berries in mulled wine, followed by honey, Andes candies, and paper pulp in up front. Hints of vanilla and mustiness stay behind.	This nose is mustier and earthier than the 10's. It's a mix of semi-sweet chocolate, nocino, simple brandy, shoe polish and molasses. WINNER	This is the grapiest nose of the four, with does of PX and balsamic vinegar. Brazil nuts and milk chocolate fill the middle, while mint and Luxardo syrup remain in the back.	Gunpowder and soy sauce make up most of the nose. Other notes include cornbread topped with blueberry jam, brine, and urea. This is one dirty bird.
The mellow, minty palate also dishes out Irish soda bread, almonds, black raisins, and a hint of dunnage.	Equal parts salt, sweet, and tannin fill the palate with notes like walnuts, raw almonds, raspberries, and old wood.	After the 12yo, this palate is less bitter and tannic than I expected. Jelly rings and nocino give it a mellow nutty/fruity sweetness. Lots of salted roasted almonds rest atop a quiet savory note. WINNER	The palate is savory in a lightly sulfuric but not unpleasant fashion. Very salty hard cheese meets balsamic vinegar, dried cherries, and a hint of urea.
The finish is sweeter than the palate, but also quite salty, with raw almonds and tannins in the background.	It finishes bitterer and earthier than the palate, while the raspberries turn tangy and tart.	Less tannic than the 10 and 12! Longer finish too, mostly of tart berries and toasty oak spices. WINNER	Luckily, the finish's sulfur character isn't the kind that turns the tongue furry. It's mostly gunpowder, aged hard cheese, and stones.
Comments: Much like its siblings, there's not a lot of whisky here, with the cask doing all the talking, quite loudly, in fact, for a 10 year old. Still, it's better than many low-ABV sherried scotches at its age.	Comments: Love that nose! Though it does setup expectations that the palate cannot match. The earth and raw nuts push it past the 10yo, despite the tannins.	Comments: This had the lightest color of the three. Judging by that, and the palate, I'm guessing there are some refill casks in the mix. It's the pour that I finished first, and I was left wanting more. It's the champ of the group.	Comments: Some online reviews opine that the koji mold delivers the whisky's savoriness. Not in my book, or my face. This is straight up sulfur. But it does not wreck the whisky. It just makes it dirtier than the other four. The 16yo's subtler touches and complexity win out.
Rating: 81	Rating: 83	Rating: 85	Rating: 83

WORDS WORDS WORDS

It's easier for my brain and stomach to process four low-ABV whiskies than three high-ABV whiskies, so I was able to focus better with this quartet. I still can't tell you whether this is aged shōchū or not because the spirit was so extractive, pulling everything from its casks. It often reads like 42%abv sherry from heavily-charred casks. While there's certainly a market for that style in the whisky world (including Japan), that's not exactly my style. The 16 year old was the gentlest of the four, and also the closest to finding balance. I hope Hikari/Hakata tries its hand at more refill cask whisky because I'd love to try that some day.

Three five-year-old Komagatake single casks for La Maison du Whisky

I am just now seeing the Text label near Niigata.
LOL, I’m leaving it there.

A stomach virus kept me off the sauce for a week, but that's behind me now. 😅

During last year's vacation, I learned that La Maison du Whisky has cornered the Parisian whisky retail market. To avoid all FOMO, you should visit all three of LMDW's excellent brick-and-mortar shops in the city, as each store has a slightly different inventory.

Because France doesn't have the same wacky liquor laws as the US, La Maison also acts as an importer, especially of Japanese whiskies. Back in 2022, LMDW brought in three single first-fill ex-bourbon casks of Komagatake (Shinshu Distillery) single malt, each of which was matured at one of the three Mars locations: Shinshu (mountains), Tsunuki (coast), and Yakushima (tropical island). Today I'm going to try them side-by-side to see how, or if, the aging process is influenced by the warehouse locales.

Komagatake Kyōdai

Komagatake 5-year-old 2016 cask 3705, Shinshu-aged 61%abv	Komagatake 5-year-old 2016 cask 5183, Tsunuki-aged 60%abv	Komagatake 5-year-old 2016 cask 2063, Yakushima-aged 61%abv
The nose starts off with apples, malt, vanilla, and paint thinner, with caramel, white peaches, and white dessert wine arriving later. Once diluted to 50%abv, the whisky shifts toward mint, anise, sugar cookies, and cherry candy in the nose.	Ah, some real fruit in this nose! Mango juice, orange peel, and orange blossoms up front. Cinnamon, glue, and chlorophyl settle into the background. The nose gets leaner once the whisky is diluted to 50%abv. It's all barley, yeast, peat, burlap, cinnamon, and clove.	Another pretty nose, with sugar cookies, orange peels, rosewater and lemon candies appearing in the first 20-30 minutes. Vanilla bean, almond extract, and toasted oak emerge later on. At 50%abv, the whisky's nose offers up apricots, apples, confectioner's sugar, and a hint of brine.
The hot and sweet palate offers cherry-flavored children's medicine, honey and clementines in the foreground, barley and cocoa in the middle, ash in the distance. The palate is so very, very sweet at the 50%abv mark, mostly lemon candy, simple syrup, and milk chocolate.	Surprising peaty notes hit the palate first, followed by limes, tart apples, tart cherries, and bitter citrus pith. At 50%abv, there's less peat and sugar, but lots of tart and bitter citrus.	Mild smoke and bitterness moderate the palate's sweetness. Cloves, almond extract, and lemons stick around the longest. It's moderately sweet with salty smoke, lemon blossoms, and clementines at 50%abv.
The finish is VERY sweet, like dessert wine, lemon candy, simple syrup, and milk chocolate. At 50%abv, the finish is tangier and more acidic. A few marshmallows appear after the final sips.	No peat in the finish, so the sweetness runs wild, especially in notes of sweet apples and lemon candy. After the whisky is diluted to 50%abv, the sweetness calms down. Oranges, limes, and menthol linger a bit.	The finish is smoky and rosy, with a hint of cherry bubblegum. It gets saltier with time. A Yoichi-like delicate smoke mixes with sweet citrus in the diluted finish.
Comments: This cask reads the youngest out of the three, perhaps due to its warehouse's cooler temperatures. The whisky is a bit too sweet for my palate, but it's quite decent overall. This would have been a much more interesting whisky at 10-12 its age.	Comments: The peaty notes give this whisky more complexity than the Shinshu while occasionally toning down some of the sweetness. And, as always, I'm fan of all the fruit notes. Other than perhaps the citrus and sugar, very little ties this cask to the Shinshu one.	Comments: This Yakushima cask was the winner throughout the whole tasting, especially since its finish stuck the landing after every sip. Salt + light smoke + citrus = Yes. I hope they'll leave some of these Yakushima casks to snooze until they're 10 years old, because could be outstanding.
Rating: 80	Rating: 84	Rating: 86

WORDS WORDS WORDS

After being disappointed by a pair of disappointing Komagatake malts, I was happily reminded that Mars produces some very good whiskies. As noted above, I believe that all three of these casks would have benefited from more maturation time, but at least two of them are quite nice at 5 years. Considering the salt and peat levels on the second (better) two, can one really be sure all three casks held the same spirit? (I'm just seeing now, per Serge's notes, that these did not hold the same spirit. This trio makes less sense now.) A bit burned out by these baby Mars whiskies, I will switch to a different small whisky brand (not Chichibu, sorry) for this month's final Japanese booze reviews.

Mars Komagatake 4 year old 2015, cask 1940 for Total Wine

As I referenced the other day, Mars has released a couple hundred single casks from the Shinshu distillery under the the Komagatake brand name. A few of those casks even made it to American shores. Today's heater (62%abv) was a single bourbon cask sold exclusively through Total Wine & More, a retailer I've missed dearly since moving to Ohio.

This will be my sixth contemporary Komagatake single cask, all have been 3 to 4 years old, and the previous five scored between 78 and 84. My expectations are thusly not set that high for this 4-year-old. If it's good though, I'll pine for Total Wine even more.

Distillery: Mars Shinshu
Ownership: Hombo Shuzo Co. Ltd.
Brand: Komagatake
Region: Nagano Prefecture, Japan
Age: 4 years (May 2015 - September 2019)
Maturation: bourbon cask
Cask #: 1940
Outturn: 208 bottles
Exclusive to: Total Wine & More
Alcohol by Volume: 62%
(from a bottle split)

NEAT

The nose remains tight, even after 30 minutes of air. At first it's just malt, brine, and a lot of lavender soap. It slowly picks up notes of cinnamon schnapps and vanilla-bean-infused bourbon. The very bourbony palate is full of barrel char and vanilla, with jasmine rice and simple syrup in the middle, and lime juice in the back. Numbing heat cancels out the finish for the first two sips. Then it's a belt of vanilla simple syrup and lime juice.

It may need water...

DILUTED to ~50%abv, or 1½ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

Ah, more approachable. Green apple candy, Barbasol shaving cream, and lemony soap start the nose, with vanilla and flower blossoms appearing later. The palate stays simple: Mint, witbier, malt, and a bitter touch. It finishes minty and tangy.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

This was such a half-baked mess when neat that I wasn't even inspired to add water, but thankfully I did because that rescued it, slightly. Maybe it requires further dilution. Or maybe the cask's contents weren't yet fully baked. I'm leaning towards the latter. The active oak might make it appealing to bourbon drinkers. But even the Quercus alba can't hide an incomplete whisky. I'm thankful I didn't buy a bottle from TW&M. And I'm glad the next three Komagatake casks are older.

Availability - Probably sold out
Pricing - ???
Rating - 76 (once diluted)

Mars Komagatake 2022 Edition

The Hombo Shuzo Company made multiple attempts at establishing consistent whisky production. The family-run company earned their whisky license in 1949, but didn't build their first distillery until 1960, in Yamanashi. Kiichiro Iwai, one of the men who sent Masataka Taketsuru to Scotland to learn the whisky trade in 1918, oversaw production at the distillery until his death in 1966. The distillery closed in 1969 because its whisky did not sell well among its Japanese customers. Another distillery was built in Kagoshima a few years later, but that one closed soon after as well. The issue with the Kagoshima distillery was the same as that of the Yamanashi distillery, the Scottish-style proved too heavy for the Japanese consumers at the time. Lighter spirit was needed.

In 1984, Shinshu Distillery opened in the Japanese Alps. The source water was softer up there, while the temperature and altitude would result in slow maturation. Shinshu experienced limited success until 1992, when Japan's recession and decline in whisky sales forced the distillery to close. As whisky sales started to climb worldwide in 2011, the distillery reopened. The distillery hasn't closed since, but did install brand new stills in 2014. Hombo Shuzo opened a second distillery, Tsunuki, in Kagoshima again, so they could go back to producing a heavier spirit, now more appreciated worldwide.

Shinshu Distillery single malts, from both production eras, are released under the Komagatake brand. Over 200 different Komagatake whiskies have been released over the years. Malts distilled during the more recent era first appeared in 2014 with Shinshu's 3 year old whisky.

Since 2020, the distillery has released an annual 50%abv NAS small batch single malt. I had the chance to try a few of the editions while in Japan, but this is my first opportunity to try one while inside my hermetically sealed whisky laboratory. Did I say laboratory? I meant lavatory.

Distillery: Mars Shinshu
Ownership: Hombo Shuzo Co. Ltd.
Brand: Komagatake
Region: Nagano Prefecture, Japan
Age: at least 3 years old
Maturation: allegedly bourbon, sherry, and port casks

Bottling year: 2022
Outturn: ???
Alcohol by Volume: 50%
(from a bottle split)

NEAT

The yeasty, malty nose dishes out bananas, lager, apricots, cinnamon, lumber, and circus peanuts. The rawness of the palate surprises, even though, as a 3yo palate it shouldn't. It's floral and sweet, with lots of marshmallows. Honey on Irish soda bread. Maybe a hint of smoke. It finishes even sweeter, like agave nectar and vanilla.

DILUTED to ~46%abv, or ½ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

The nose shows more vanilla and lager, but also offers hints of tobacco, mango peel, and oloroso. Lots of tangy new make leads the palate, with lime and vanilla in the midground, sweat and tannins in the background. The finish lasts longer with a mix of lemons and tannins.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Slightly disappointing, this whisky fell short of my previous Komagatake experiences, and the Whiskybase community's feelings about this whisky. It's not terrible stuff, just very sweet, very limited baby malt. Many of us (including this reviewer) want to love Komagatake, but it's difficult to get a legitimate read on how a ~3yo whisky fits into a distillery's bigger picture. With that in mind, four single casks will follow!

Availability - At a few dozen retailers in the US and Europe
Pricing - $110 to $180
Rating - 78

Mars Iwai Tradition Blended Whisky (white label)

I won't be traveling to Japan this year, so I'll pelt you with some more Japanese whisky reviews instead! It's what Saint Padraig would have wanted.

In addition to bottling single malts from their Shinshu and Tsunuki distilleries, the Mars folks also fashion a bunch of blends, with the Iwai range being the most popular. There's the Iwai 45, with a higher ABV, yet grain whisky driven, and there's the standard Iwai Tradition. The Tradition has more malt than the 45, but also has the minimal ABV, 40%. I'm not sure I understand the logic behind that, but so it goes.

Some actual tinkering goes on in the Tradition. The blenders mix bourbon, sherry, and red wine casks, while also applying a little bit of peated malt. Were all the ingredients distilled at the Hombo Shuzo facilities? Heck, were all the ingredients distilled in Japan? I'm going to guess "No" to both now that the label no longer reads "Blended Japanese Whisky", but rather Mars Whisky.

More importantly, does it taste good? Tonight I'm matching it up with the less-than-inspiring, and more expensive, Ichiro's Malt & Grain, Classical Edition.

Ownership: Hombo Shuzo Co. Ltd.

Brand: Mars

Type: Blended Whisky
Region: Japan and ???

Age: ???

Maturation: bourbon, sherry, and red wine casks

Alcohol by Volume: 40%

Chillfitered? maybe

e150? probably, with its Diageo-esque orange hue
(from a bottle split)

HIGHBALLS

I'm getting nothing but very sweet grain, vanilla, and some tanginess in the background. The Ichiro's highball is creamier and toastier.

NEAT

Though the nose does lead with a layer of charred America oak, there are more interesting notes of peach candy, barley grist, plaster, corn flakes, and coal in the mid- and background. The simple, pleasant palate offers oranges, roses, and vanilla custard up front, and dates(!) in the back. Peach skins, bitter citrus pith, and roses finish it up.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

I like this much more than expected, especially since its finish sticks the landing. It's the rare blend that works best when served neatly. With its US prices as low as $25 — no, there are no missing zeros — Iwai Tradition trounces all the major entry-level scotch blends. I might even purchase a bottle regret-free if/when I'm in the right location. Perhaps I should review a few more Mars whiskies.....

Availability - At your favorite specialty liquor retailer
Pricing - $25-$60 in the USA
Rating - 81

Yoichi Aromatic Yeast

Look at me reviewing two NAS blends in a row! I will correct that today with a single malt......that is also NAS? Yay? But it's Yoichi. Yay. And the producers have tinkered with its yeast. Yay!

I still think yeast is the next (and final?) frontier for distillers. The world's preferred drug is farted out by those precious little critters — the yeast, not the distillers, probably — so why not find out what different strains will do under different conditions?! 95+% of whisky products use the most productive yeast strains, not for the sake of the product itself, but for financial purposes. Their goal is to squeeze out as many alcoholic yeast toots per barley microgram as possible, not to introduce more fruity esters to their spirit.

Yeast experiments are scarce among whiskymakers, while cask experiments (the pig's lipstick) are legion. So, when Nikka dug into their library of 700 different yeast strains to produce two unique versions of their Yoichi and Miyagikyo single malts as part of their Discovery Series, I was very interested in the results.

Unfortunately, these NAS Nikka Discovery Series bottlings carry significant prices. The Yoichi and Miyagikyo Aromatic Yeast expressions are $250-$300 each. As a result, bottles are still available throughout Europe and the US, three years after their release.

Luckily, the Doctors Springbank scored me a 2oz sample of the Yoichi edition. For perspective, I'm lining it up against the current standard Yoichi NAS.

Distillery: Yoichi
Ownership: Nikka
Range: Discovery Series
Region: Hokkaidō, Japan
Age: ????
Maturation: ???
Outturn: 4,800 bottles
Release year: 2022
Alcohol by Volume: 48%
(sample courtesy of the Doctors Springbank)

NOTES

Fruit indeed in the nose; mostly dried apricot, dried peaches, oranges peels, grapefruit, and apple peels. Notes of nutritional yeast, brine, band-aids, and mocha blend well with those fruits.

The palate reads so unpeated that it feels like a Speyside. Limes, fresh apricots, and almond extract arrive first. Baked apples and Cara Cara oranges next. It picks up a nice spicy zing after a while. And then, of all things, cheesecake!

It finishes with a touch of sweetness to go with a zesty tartness. Picture a mix of Cara Cara oranges, limes, and baked apples.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Had you told me this was a 15-20yo Glenburgie, I would've believed you. In fact, with its phenolic touches, it may be a little more complex than some of the indie 'Burgie single casks. The lack of public enthusiasm for this whisky may prove detrimental to future "Aromatic Yeast" editions, but all those bottles likely remain on the shelves because of the price and the lack of age statement. I will hold out naïve hope that this experiment isn't a one-time thing.

Availability - Still quite available as of the date of this review
Pricing - $250ish in the US, $200-$350 in Europe
Rating - 88

Nikka Tsuru Blended, White Ceramic Decanter

pic source

Monday offered Ichiro's Mystery Meat, today it's Nikka's Mystery Meat. I'm not sure when the Tsuru blended whisky releases began, and there's conflicting information about when they ended, but they seemed to be a sibling of the Taketsuru blended malts (the Japanese word "taketsuru" means "bamboo crane", while "tsuru" means "crane").

Tsuru's short-lived range included:

• 17-year-old in a glass bottle
• 17-year-old in a white ceramic decanter
• NAS in two different glass bottles
• NAS in a white ceramic decanter

I tried the "17-year-old in a glass bottle" two years ago, finding it to be pretty close to grain whisky, and wishing there'd been more Yoichi malt in the mix. Today I'll review the "NAS in a white ceramic decanter" expression, with Monday's NAS blend serving as its sparring partner (or pace car?).

Ownership: Nikka

Range: Tsuru

Type: Blended Whisky

Region: Japan (and others?)

Distilleries: Miyagikyo, Yoichi, and Nishinomiya (and others?)

Age: ???

Maturation: ???

Alcohol by Volume: 43%

(from a bottle split)

NOTES

The gentle nose leads with a mix of green apple skins, cucumber skins, and rosewater, with quiet notes of ocean and fabric in the background. A brown sugar note appears ~20 minutes in, and pushes toward the front.

A soft citrus note slowly expands across the palate, well balanced between tart and sweet. It's also slightly dusty and floral, with hints of apple cider. There's no vanilla or caramel, though it's also not raw. Not a whole lot going on, but it's very pleasant.

It finishes with tart and sweet apples, burlap, and sprinkle of salt.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

I did not apply this whisky to a highball because it was so fragile. It's inoffensive, better blended than Ichiro's Malt & Grain Classical Edition, and its balance exceeds that of the 17yo-glass-bottle Tsuru. But there's also not much There there, whether that's due to oxidation within the decanter or the blend itself. However, I'd be happy to drink this any day.

Availability - Secondary market
Pricing - ???
Rating - 81

Things I Really Drink: Ichiro's Malt & Grain, Classical Edition

During my Japan 2023 trip, I discovered that the standard Ichiro's Malt & Grain Blended World Whisky works very well in a highball. But similar to Yoichi NAS single malt, Ichiro's Malt & Grain sells for a wild premium in the US. Back then the American price was 3x that of Japan's; as per Wine-searcher's averages that multiplier has become 3.7x ($100+) today.

For reasons that escape me, I did choose to go halfsies on a bottle of Ichiro's Malt & Grain Blended World Whisky Classical Edition. I've been unable to find any details about how the "Classical Edition" differs from the standard one, other than a higher ABV (48% versus 46.5%) and higher price. It's very tempting to call this Ichiro's Mystery Meat.

Ownership: Venture Whisky Ltd.

Brand: Ichiro's Malt & Grain

Type: Blended Whisky

Region: Japan, Ireland, Scotland, Canada, and USA?

Age: ???

Maturation: ???

Alcohol by Volume: 48%

Chillfitered? No

e150? No

HIGHBALLS

After trying six different highballs, I think I've found the right formula. 3:1 and 4:1 (bubbles to whisky) come out much too watery and bland, especially with small ice cubes. (Side note: I've never had that issue with any Hibiki products.) The key is to apply 2 parts club soda (or the best mineral water you can find) to 1 part Classical Edition over one large ice cube. The flavor stays strong and moderately sweet with hints of wine casks.

NEAT

The nose begins with a mix of vanilla, butter, sugar, and cinnamon, almost like a cookie dough. That's followed by banana candy, split lumber, and a hint of ocean. After a while it takes on a note that I can only define as an emptied pinot noir glass at the end of the night now being filled with warm Dr. Pepper. And I don't hate it.

Though black cherry and strawberry candies lead the palate, it's never too sweet. It also reads much lighter than 48%abv. The midground holds a jumble of sour red grapes, woody bitterness, cassia bark, and Robitussin.

It finishes with black cherry syrup, vanilla, black peppercorns, ginger candy, and a bit of acidity.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Though Akuta-san has a history of making terrific whisky, this "World Blend" smells and tastes like a mad mix of random bottles from one's shelf. There's no cohesion, especially since it seems like there were various casks types, in addition to the blend of malt and grain whiskies from (possibly) five different countries. How does one even attempt to marry all those elements together?

As noted earlier, one can devise a quality highball ratio/formula from the Classical Edition, but the same can be said for Johnnie Walker Black Label and Chivas 12yo. So I'm not sure what makes this whisky "classical", nor why its price is so high. It's not a bad whisky, but I'm getting tired of it and I'm only a little more than halfway done with my half bottle. Maybe I'll just stick to Venture's Chichibus from now on.

Availability - Scattered around the world
Pricing - All over the map (LOL), $100-$350 outside of Japan, $50-$80 in 🇯🇵
Rating - 79

Yoichi NAS (2022, Japan) versus Yoichi 10 year old (2023, USA)

It's a Taste Off between two Things I Really Drink! Of course I never took pictures of my actual bottles and I'm down to the 2oz samples I saved, so I'll need to use some other visuals.

I purchased my bottle of Yoichi NAS during my March-April Japan 2023 trip, for grand total of $27. The same whisky costs, on average, $97 in the US. Yes, this is why some of us return from Japan with a new piece of luggage filled with bottles wrapped in dirty laundry.

In lieu of a bottle pic, here's an Itsukushima ice cream shop sign, located in the touristy part of the island:

Theoretically those are raisins, but I'd already stuffed myself silly with fresh baked momiji manju, so I didn't stick around to find out.

I opened the Yoichi NAS bottle at the end of 2023, just in time for the next whisky.

After eight long years of waiting, the Yoichi 10 year old returned in 2023! And it was expensive. As soon as some 750mLs were exported to The States, the Doctors Springbank scooped up two bottles. I went in halfsies on one of the bottles.

Just after New Year's 2024, we sat down and tried the NAS and 10yo side-by-side. I took no notes, but I remember that the 10 required a lot of air to open up. Now, 14 months later, I'm sitting down in my whisky chair to compare them again, but with notes this time.

THE YOICHI YOUTHS

Yoichi NAS (2022, Japan) 45%abv	Yoichi 10 year old (2023, USA) 45%abv
Very young lightly peated spirit greets the nose. Pears, apples, orange peels, and talcum powder up front. Wood smoke and seaweed in the back.	Peated steak chili. Yes, that's the first nose note. Think beef and chili powder. A hint of seaweed too. Plums and almond extract appear around the 30-minute mark. At 45 minutes? Yeast and sweat.
The peat rumbles louder in the palate, joining apples, pears, mint, and a peppery heat. Its sweetness starts off mildly, but expands with time, becoming very sugary by the 45-minute mark.	Soft, familiar Yoichi peat balances well with tart stone fruits and citrus in the palate. The sweetness remains subtle throughout. Notes of almonds, almond extract, and tobacco highlight the background.
It finishes tangy and peppery with more heat and less peat than expected. The sweetness is never shy here.	It finishes with nectarines, cigarettes, seaweed, and simple syrup.
Comments: This NAS expression reads sweeter and younger than the old version, which needed water to reveal its sugars. Luckily, baby Yoichi spirit is quite good. Yet, from the top of the bottle to the bottom, this single malt showed very little complexity. It did work decently in a highball, though.	Comments: This was the older sibling, indeed. It was much more interesting, and less clean, than the NAS. Nikka's whiskies tend to be mild mannered, but this one showed hints of crazy. Which I like, a lot. I wouldn't be shocked if some sherry casks were included, and possibly a mix of peated and non-peated spirits.
Rating: 82	Rating: 87

WORDS WORDS WORDS

The NAS cost less than $0.04/mL. The 10yo, $0.21/mL. Though the 10 is the superior whisky, the premium one pays doesn't seem reasonable. That opinion doesn't seem to be shared by many. Because the new 10's first release sold out nearly instantly in Japan and the US, I don't foresee a price drop for subsequent batches. If price isn't an obstacle for you, then go for it! And share it. It's very good stuff. Meanwhile, if you're in The States, Nikka's From the Barrel blend offers more flavor and flexibility than Yoichi NAS single malt, and at a lower price.

Things I Really Drink: Yamazaki Peated Malt Spanish Oak (2024)

Last year Suntory released a pair of single malts within their Kogei Collection range: Yamazaki Peated Malt Spanish Oak and Hakushu Peated Malt Spanish Oak. "Kogei" is Japanese for "traditional artisan crafts", and this whisky duo was called the Japanese Kimono Edition. The Kimono part refers to the packaging, as the bottles and labels have graceful swooping designs fashioned by Kyoto's Chiso Kimono House. The whisky though, is still whisky.

The Yamazaki and Hakushu distilleries produce several malt spirit styles for Suntory's blends (e.g. Hibiki and Kakubin). So, though Yamazaki's single malt is unpeated, the distillery does make peated spirit, and vice versa at Hakushu. So these Kogei Collection releases are a fun switcheroo.

Somehow Doctors Springbank and I found Yamazaki Peated Malt Spanish Oak selling for a fraction of its current going price. We probably could have purchased more than one bottle, but my experience with other Suntory NASes isn't fabulous. So we went halfsies. That I'm nearly done with my 350mL may offer a hint as to my opinion about this whisky.

Distillery: Yamazaki
Ownership: Beam Suntory
Region: Oyamazaki, Kyoto Prefecture, Japan
Range: The Kogei Collection
Age: ???

Maturation: Spanish oak sherry casks
Release year: 2024

Alcohol by Volume: 43%
Chillfiltered? No
e150a? No

NOTES

The (lovely) casks offer an excellent balance of dried fruit and raw nuts in the nose. Perhaps Oloroso + PX? The peat reads coastal, not Islay-style, nor Skye-ish, but something softer. Tar, sesame seeds, Play Doh, cherry candy, and amaretto merge in the mid- and background. After 30+ minutes, fig notes open in the foreground, while anise arrives in the back.

I believe the Scots would refer to this as hella moreish. The oily-textured palate brings an impressive bounty of fresh fruits, as opposed to dried ones, with loads of blood oranges and Rainier cherries up front. Delicate peat meets Meyer lemons, chile oil mixes with sandalwood.

This is one of the longest finishes I've experienced in a contemporary 43%abv whisky. Dried cranberries, sweeter lemons, Thai chiles, and wood smoke linger and linger and linger.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

I did the unthinkable by pouring some Yamazaki 12 because this Peated/Sherried thing was way too good. They were tried, side-by-side, and the Peated Malt Spanish Oak won.

The sherry cask management at Yamazaki continues to be remarkable. Could it be the climate? Or seasoning sherry? Or focused quality control? Or all the above? I don't know, but Yamazaki Peated Malt Spanish Oak is so much better than I expected it to be, and almost better than it needed to be, with its SRP below $200 at the start.

I know I just gave another TIRD a 90-point score, and while this Yamazaki doesn't have that Tamdhu's complexity, the drinkability, stellar craft, and sheer joy it brings pushes this NAS to that level. It's been such a long time since I've had a TIRD that was so much fun to drink.

Availability - Secondary market, and primary market at secondary prices
Pricing - Terrifying
Rating - 90

Ardbeg Eureka Committee Release

After having used plenty of virtual ink detailing how Ardbeg's Special Releases aren't particularly special, I decided to avoid reviewing these releases entirely after Blaaaaack. But five years later, an opportunity has arisen, unique enough for me to return to the world of Ardbeg's annual limited releases.

In 2023, 100 Ardbeg Committee members were selected to blindly taste several Ardbeg samples and provide tasting notes. Using these "Operation Smokescreen" replies and preferences, Dr. Bill Lumsden and master blender Gillian Macdonald crafted Eureka. I was not among the 100 tasters, but one of the Doctors Springbank was. As she (yes, she) told me about that taste-off back in 2023, beneath my curmudgeonly exterior a jealous heart beat. Then (fast-forwarding to late 2024) she received an extra sample of Eureka and gave it to me. Now that Eureka's secrets are out, I am going to taste the stuff.

Distillery: Ardbeg
Ownership: Glenmorangie Plc (owned by LVMH)
Region: Islay
Product: Eureka!
Age: NAS
Maturation and Malt: A mix of two elements. First, regular Ardbeg spirit aged in PX casks. Second, roasted malt Ardbeg spirit aged in bourbon casks.
Outturn: ?????
Bottling year: 2025
Alcohol by Volume: 52.2%
(thank you, Doctors Springbank!)

NEAT

The nose starts off young, in a good way, with barley eu-de-vie, yeast, and wet dog. Then the Ardbeg soot arrives, milking with milk chocolate, roses, and 1980s Old Spice aftershave. Two sides of the unique palate merge and separate and merge again. Side one is full of roasted things, like almonds, hazelnuts, chestnuts, and corn. Side two is...well...Westland Distillery's five malt mix, intensely malty with milk chocolate and french vanilla highlights. It finishes with the roasted nuts, soot, salt, and cashews.

DILUTED to ~46%abv, or ¾ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

The nose takes on more of a oceanic peaty style, full of seaweed and brine. Apple peels, roses, and milk chocolate await in the middle, and sweaty socks sneak into the background. Much changed and calmer, the palate offers peppery heat, cashew butter, milk chocolate, and good bitterness. It's less peaty as well. The finish mirrors the palate, with a little more malt.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

What an odd whisky, and I'm not sure if its two elements ever fully come together, but I like it. It's unlike any Ardbeg I've tried, so the Eureka successfully separates itself from the standard range. The Westland note had me doing a triple take. Perhaps that character comes from the roasted malt? The palate's nuttiness and the nose's youth boost it further. I'm not sure I could make it through a whole bottle of this, but I'd happily drink it again.

Availability - It rolled out two weeks ago. Unsure how quickly it's sold.
Pricing - ???
Rating - 85 (my 3rd highest score for an Ardbeg annual release)

Martin's Blended Scotch: Five whiskies bottled between 1945 and 1977

Photo by Mr. PT

James Martin, boxer and whisky merchant, created his own blended whiskies and exported them beyond Scotland in the late 1800s. Macdonald & Muir Ltd bought his brands in 1912, and started delivering Martin's VVO to the US the following year. Macdonald & Muir then scooped up Glenmorangie Distillery a few years later, so they had their own malt source for their blends. In 1996 the company changed its name to Glenmorangie PLC, and was then sold to LVMH eight years later.

(A fun bit of whisky trivia: Alexander Mackendrick's 1949 film, Whisky Galore, was based on an actual whisky-bearing cargo ship crash. In 1941, the SS Politician smacked into the Hebridean Isle of Eriskay, releasing 22,000 cases of scotch, including 10,000 cases of Martin's. Locals relieved the wreck of its whisky for quite some time, until customs agents broke up the fun.)

The Martin's expressions included the VVO 8-year-old, De Luxe 12-year-old, and Fine and Rare 20-year-old, as well as the occasional 25yo and 30yo. Most of these whiskies did not survive into the late 20th century, and the entire range ended once LVMH took over in 2004.

I'm a dusty blend guy, but I haven't seen many Martin'ses in the primary or secondary wild, so when the generous Mr. PT announced he was splitting up FIVE of his bottles I was quickly on board. Fifteen months later, I'm sitting down with this quintet:

• Martin's Gold Bar VVO, NAS (likely ~8 years old), S111 tax stamp, bottled 1945-1960, 43.4%abv
• Martin's 8 year old VVO, S112 tax stamp, bottled 1961-1977, 43.4%abv
• Martin's 12 year old DeLuxe, S111 tax stamp, bottled 1953-1960, 43.4%abv
• Martin's 12 year old DeLuxe, S112 tax stamp, bottled 1961-1977, 43.4%abv
• Martin's 20 year old Fine & Rare, S111 tax stamp, bottled 1953-1960, 43.4%abv

The 12yo and 20yo didn't make it to the US until 1953, but both likely (or in the 20's case, definitely) contain pre-WWII distillate. The dustier VVO might have a good deal of that element as well. But no matter what, olden blends are the source of my geekiest excitement, so this is thrilling! And all hail the 43.4%abv (76 UK Proof) strength!

(Sources: here, here, and here)

Here they are, broken up by expression, along with a new(!) type of grade...

V.V.O.

Martin's Gold Bar VVO, NAS (likely ~8yo) S111 tax stamp, bottled 1945-1960 43.4%abv	Martin's VVO 8yo S112 tax stamp, bottled 1961-1977 43.4%abv
The nose is LOUD, full of stewed fruits, dried orange slices, cinnamon, and lemon candy. Meaty and dunnage notes give it some more angles.	It's an OBE bomb on the nose. Very dusty, metallic, and soapy. It gets soapier with time, but beneath that noise are mild touches of dried apple slices, dried mango, and cloves.
The palate arrives bitterer and smokier than expected. It's intensely ashy, tart (citrus), and metallic, getting smokier with time.	Though also very dusty, the palate is more approachable with considerably less soap. Tangy oranges, simple syrup, cologne, and glass. Yes, it's like licking glass.
It finishes with super tart citrus and ash, with a hint of sweetness, and very good length.	The finish reveals layers of peppercorns, tart oranges, and talcum powder.
Comments: Despite being in the bottle of 65-80 years, this whisky hasn't lost a microgram of oomph. This was by far the smokiest of the five, and one of the most vivid in style. It's a muscular youngster after all this time.	Comments: This one spent less time cooped up in the bottle, but the OBE nearly kills it. There are fruity, floral, peppery aspects locked up in the background. Thankfully, they sneak forward when one fashions a highball.
Old Bottle Effect: 3 out of 10 gray hairs	Old Bottle Effect: 8 out of 10 gray hairs
Rating: 84	Rating: 78

DE LUXE

Martin's DeLuxe 12 year old S111 tax stamp, bottled 1953-1960 43.4%abv	Martin's DeLuxe 12 year old S112 tax stamp, bottled 1961-1977 43.4%abv
Pineapple, crystalized ginger, apple sauce, and Mr. Sketch light blue marker lead the nose, with ocean hints in the background. While it does take on a little bit of soap with time, the fruits stay on top.	The nose feels a bit faded, as it starts out with quiet notes of dust and antique glass. But it picks up steam within 30 minutes, as golden raisins, dried cranberries, cherry pie filling, honey buns, and plum sauce appear.
The palate balances tart, sweet, and floral perfectly. It's also very malty. Limes, oranges, and citrus blossoms lead the way. Very-little-to-no smoke here.	The surprisingly bitter palate shows no signs of decrepitude. In fact, it reads rather modern, with its vanilla, drying tannins, and agave nectar. Lemons and chile oil give it a slight boost.
The finish is saltier and warmer than the palate, with lots of oranges and a hint of burlap.	It finishes more tannic and sweeter, with an mix of chile oil and talcum power (again).
Comments: My second favorite of the group, this whisky offers a style that some Speyside distilleries would probably love to mimic. Yes, this blend reads more like a single malt than some contemporary single malts. I would absolutely buy a bottle of this were it made today.	Comments: The nose, once it wakes up is the best element by far. Had the palate matched it, I'd be raving about the whisky like the older De Luxe. Instead it's a bit odd, both old and new fashioned at the same time. I wonder if the two S112 bottlings were stored differently than the S111s.
Old Bottle Effect: 4 out of 10 gray hairs	Old Bottle Effect: 5 out of 10 gray hairs
Rating: 87	Rating: 81

Fine & Rare

Martin's Fine & Rare 20 year old S111 tax stamp, bottled 1953-1960 43.4%abv
Ohhhh, the nose: White nectarines, apricots, incense, plum sauce, black walnuts, hint of mesquite, hint of fish market, and a lot of molasses.
Here comes another list for the palate: Lychees, guavas, peaches, fresh ginger, sea salt, wood smoke, umami, and a lovely tartness.
The peaches dominate the finish, with lychees and lemons in the middle, salt and umami in the background.
Comments: An absolute fucking home run.
Old Bottle Effect: 3 out of 10 gray hairs
Rating: 91

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Yes, the 20 year old earned its own table. Was its 65-70 glass years responsible for this? I have no idea. I'm so distracted by the 20's quality that I'm having trouble focusing on the bigger picture. Here, I'll start a new paragraph.

The S111 tax stamp Martin'ses dominate the S112s, though I'm not sure if that's due to where the bottles lived for 2-3 generations, or simply the blends' original quality. Four out of five of the noses were great-to-excellent, so the palates marked the whiskies' differences. The S111 12yo and 20yo palates were gloriously fruity, while the S111 VVO delivered an Islay-style peaty punch. The S112 palates freshened up when applied to highballs, but felt quite off when neat. The company did start selling Glenmorangie as a single malt in 1959, so perhaps fewer of the better and older casks were available to the Martin's blenders after that. Or perhaps OBE is the culprit.

No matter what, I'm sending virtual hugs and kisses to the people who protected the 20yo Fine & Rare bottle for 65+ years!

Things I Really Drink: Ardmore 13 year old 2009 Old Particular, cask DL16594 for K&L Wine Merchants

A sinus infection kept me out of the whisky appreciation business for two weeks. And now back to our story...

It's no secret the K&L crew enjoy extolling their single cask picks, so when DOG — David O-G — shifted gears, describing an unexpected cask pick as weird (4 times), I took notice. I perked up further because that cask was a refill barrel Ardmore.

I opened my bottle about a month ago, when it was a big hit with friends, and have spent considerable time sorting out its contents. It is indeed not the average Ardmore, nor of a particularly familiar peated style, which has made these studies interesting.

Distillery: Ardmore

Ownership: Beam Suntory

Region: Highlands (Eastern)

Independent Bottler: Douglas Laing

Range: Old Particular

Age: 13 years old (July 2009 - September 2022)

Maturation: Refill Barrel

Cask #: DL16594

Outturn: 257 bottles

Exclusive to: K&L Wine Merchants

Alcohol by Volume: 56.1%
(from the top half of my bottle)

NEAT

Coal + a dash of dunnage + Old Bottle Effect glass & metals = the nose of an old blend, not a teenage modern Ardmore. The smell of metallic rowboats in summer mixes with mild peat smoke in the background. The dense palate blends grapefruit juice, clover honey, and lightly sooty smoke. With time it gets smokier and more bitter citrus rinds arrive. The finish is full of wood smoke, bitter citrus, and a minty hint.

DILUTED to ~46%abv, or 1¼ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

Things get crazy here. The nose goes from star anise to straight-up absinthe. It's chalky and briny, with more on sawdust than smoke. Seaweed creeps in after 15 mins. The palate? Peanut butter and dark chocolate. Sooty smoke and salted lemons. Honey and a hint of Thai chiles. It finishes with honey, peanut butter, and yuzu. The smoke gradually turns woodier.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

I don't know what happened to this barrel, but I'm happy with the result. Its volume dropped only 10% in 13 years, but when I do the math I find the alcohol volume dipped 17%, while the non-alcohol volume actually went up 8%. This is assuming the bottling strength was Ardmore-standard 63.5%abv. Perhaps I shouldn't assume. Perhaps none of this matters because the whisky works. For this palate.

The whisky itself hasn't become burdensome to drink as I approach the bottle's mindpoint, which is its own small miracle as my Whisky Attention Deficit Disorder usually kicks in before then. Its lasting pleasure is due to its unique nature. It's a strange whisky for a strange winter.

Availability - Available as of the date of this post
Pricing - $59.99
Rating - 88

Ardmore 9 year old 2010 Duncan Taylor, cask 19803198

This is one of the rare single cask Ardmores to be released in the US. I never saw it arrive on shelves, I never saw it depart. I'm not sure how a nine-year-old sherry-free Ardmore sold out in these states, but congrats to everyone who beat me to it! The whisky looks quite pale, much like the 2009 I just reviewed. May it greet my palate with more grace.

Distillery: Ardmore

Ownership: Beam Suntory

Region: Highlands (Eastern)

Independent Bottler: Duncan Taylor

Range: Dimensions

Age: 9 years old (June 2010 - July 2019)

Maturation: refill American oak?

Cask #: 19803198

Outturn: 234 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 53.0%

(from a bottle split)

NEAT

The young and but approachable nose offers up fabric, ocean, kiln, light blue Mr. Sketch marker, and a whiff of wet dog. It picks up a little bit of stone fruit with time, before it all fades out at the 30-minute mark. The palate arrives simple and honed, with minerals, peat, a squeeze of lime, and a hint of metal. It finishes with metal, stones, and peat.

DILUTED to ~46%abv, or < 1 tsp of water per 30mL whisky

The ocean note expands through the nose, while the peaty side turns lighter and brighter. Tart cherries, cherry-flavored medicine, salt, pepper, and mild peat form the palate. It finishes with peat, salt, and pepper.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

A straightforward whisky, neither austere nor zany, this Ardmore feels like it's from a bygone era, all of two decades ago. Could Duncan Taylor have let it age longer? Sure, but the spirit would have likely begun to retreat as the oak advanced. I like the nose better once the whisky is diluted, but prefer the palate neat, while having no gripes about any part of it. It's a simple thing, unlike the final Ardmore in this series...

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Rating - 83