Caperdonich 23 year old 1979 SMWS 38.12

Last week, before I sat down to drink this Caperdonich, I tested out my nose and palate and discovered that I could neither smell nor taste anything. That was a first. A Covid test told me I'd avoided that shitty virus. So, I don't know. This has been the worst year of allergies I've ever had, so I hoped that's all it was. 24+ hours later, my senses returned to near 100%, and have not abandoned me since. And now I'm back to drinking. Slàinte Mhaith!

Today's Glen Grant 2: Electric Boogaloo (also known as Caperdonich) was bottled by SMWS 20 years ago, back before their cask names became "funny". The spirit was distilled in 1979, and judging by the color, its sherry cask may have been very gentle. Which could be a very good thing, as I've always enjoyed Caperdonich more than oak juice.

Distillery: Caperdonich

Region: Speyside (Rothes)
Distiller: Seagram Distillers
Bottler: Scotch Malt Whisky Society

Age: 23 years (November 1979 - March 2003)

Maturation: sherry butt

Cask #: 38.12, "Spiced cooking apples"
Outturn: 608 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 55.3%

(from a bottle split)

NEAT

Peachy! Fresh peaches and peach candy hit the nose first, then strawberry Bubble Yum, roses, and mango juice. It gradually shifts to dried apricots and gooey toffee across the expanse of an hour. The palate strikes boldly, very tartly, with a moderate sweetness. Ginger beer, roses, and an almost smoky woodiness plays peek-a-boo. It finishes tart and gingery, fizzy, not too sweet. A hint of the nose's peaches makes a cameo.

DILUTED to ~46%abv, or 1¼ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

It's become very delicate now. The nose is more floral, with subtler peaches and mangoes, though an orange oil note has appeared. Malt and limes show up in the palate first, then toasty oak spice and fresh ginger. The sweetness remains in check. It finishes with wood spice, limes, and peach skin.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

One can't always judge a whisky by its color, but that works for this Caperdonich. This refill sherry butt contributes only moderately to the bottled product. The whisky does seem a bit fragile as it almost collapses at 46%abv, but since I don't know how long this this bottle had been open, I'm not going to assess this one too aggressively for it. But I do prefer it at full strength, wherein the palate is never shy, and the nose is a particular treat. As much as I enjoyed this particular Caperdonich, it did have a sparring partner......

Availability - ???
Pricing - ???
Rating - 88 (when neat)

Caperdonich 18 year old Peated, batch CP002

Hey, I have three Caperdonich samples! Time to drink 'em.

First up, a peated official bottling. Yes indeed, Pernod Ricard sat on a slew of peated Caperdonich casks for a while before offering up the first batch (CP001) in 2019. The whisky's distillation corresponds with Caperdonich's final year or two, with the distillery closing in 2002. My previous Caperdonich review (from FOUR years ago) was of a dirty peated creature distilled by Seagram Distillers in 1998, which leaves me wondering how long they'd been producing this alternate style. If anyone knows the facts, please let us all know in the comment section below. Thanks!

Distillery: Caperdonich
Distiller: Seagram Distillers
Current Owner: Pernod Ricard
Region: Speyside (Rothes)
Age: minimum 18 years
Maturation: American oak barrels
Batch: CP002

Bottled: 04.02.2020
Alcohol by Volume: 38%
Chillfiltered? No
e150? Yes

(from a bottle split)

NOTES

Had I tried this blind I would have thought it an Islay malt. Cinnamon, peat, baked pears, and zucchini bread arrive first in the nose. Spearmint gum, moss, and a slight leafiness appear next. The background gets more interesting with time, with drifting notes of manure, metal, and wood smoke.

The palate matches the nose at first, all cinnamon, peat, and mint candy. More character emerges with time: sweet apples, menthol, iron, oranges, and a sprinkling of cracked peppercorns.

It finishes sweeter and with a woodier smoke. Salt and lemon join the peat moss later on.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

This is NOT a $300 18-year-old peated whisky (as of 2023), which is great! In fact, it can be found for less than half that price in Europe. It was priced even lower in Japan, when I was there this year too. But is it good whisky?

Yes it is. It won't stun you or inspire you to buy a case, but it's very solid, has an excellent ABV, and if you close your eyes you can pretend it was fashioned by the Ileachs. It isn't oaky, but does feel like it has a little bit of age to it. 21 and 25 year old batches have also seen the light of day (or of store shelves), but I think one may find more of the peated spirit in the 18s. Many thanks to Pernod for bottling this stuff. Hopefully they can ditch the caramel colorant in future batches.

Availability - other batches in Europe and Asia
Pricing - Japan: $100-$125; Europe: $120-$180
Rating - 86

Four Roses: 10 Private Barrels, 10 Recipes, 10 years too late

Diving for Pearls celebrated 13 years of whisky reviews last month! Or rather it/I didn't. Children, work, and a certain Bunnahabhain cluster had my attention.

Also around that time, Columbus Scotch Night held an event that offered me a moment to be part of the audience rather than holding court as the edjumacator. Two very generous fellows, Anuj P. and Matt M., opened their whisk(e)y bunkers and provided bottles of 10 Four Roses private barrel picks of all 10 Four Roses mash/yeast recipes, all of which were distilled during the Jim Rutledge Era. As usual, I took my wee pours home for dissection.

It's been a while since I've said anything about Four Roses on this site, so here's a quick recap of the Four Roses recipe naming convention:

Four Letters:

O = Four Roses Distillery

B or E = Mash bills: B is 35% rye, E is 20% rye

S = Straight distillation

F or K or O or Q or V = Yeast strands

So there are really two variables, not four. Two mash bills * five yeast strains = ten combinations.

PAUSE FOR COMMENTARY.

I can't write this without thinking how much more vital and exciting this post would have been in 2013, when whisk(e)y geek hunger for honest, independent exploration was more vivid. And at least some private picks would have been easier to obtain ten years ago, when FOMO levels were less destructive. I remain deeply grateful for all the folks who offer up their bottles for group tastings, especially when at a fraction of the secondary market's price. They may be the only people keeping whisky enthusiasm alive.

UN-PAUSE.

In order to prevent untold disasters, I am splitting this into two tastings, "B" Tasting and "E" Tasting. I will nose and taste ~15mL of each whiskey from wee glencairns, and give the bourbons letter-based grade ranges. OBSK has always(?) been my favorite recipe, but I can't remember the last time I tried an OBSK (or any single recipe), so I don't know why I preferred it. Thus I'm going into this kinda fresh. Here I go...

---

The "B" Mashbill (35% rye) Tasting

OBSF Recipe

10 years 8 months, bottled in November 2021 for Bottle Republic, 57.7%abv

Nose - It leads with a wallop of barrel char, VOCs, and Heath Bar, with milder notes of black pepper and brine appearing later.

Palate - Doesn't begin great with ethyl, chlorine, and tannins, but it does pick up salty corn on the cob and gingerbread with time.

Finish - Perhaps its best aspect, with some dried berries and gingerbread.

Comments - This is not the quality I remember from Four Roses, as the bourbon reads both undercooked and too oaky at the same time, Craft-style. I do enjoy the gingerbread and Heath Bar notes though.

Rating Range: C/C+ (76-78)

OBSK Recipe

10 years 2 months old, bottled for Ponte Vedra Inn & Club, 52.8%abv

Nose - A complete change of pace from the OBSF. Peach nectar, apricot jam, milk chocolate, vanilla extract, and a slight prickle of rye whiskey.

Palate - More on almonds, than vanilla or caramel. Irish soda bread, fresh ginger, jalapeño oil, and medium sweetness.

Finish - Mirrors the palate well, with the ginger and jalapeños registering loudest, and vanilla and brown sugar quieter.

Comments - Ha! This is a happy reminder of why I used to enjoy this lively, delicious combination. SPOILER: It's my favorite of the Bs.

Rating Range: B+ (87-89)

OBSO Recipe

9 years 3 months, bottled in April 2021 for OHLQ(!), 55.6%abv

Nose - Sort of blank at first. Then, in order: pine, caramel, vanilla, black cherry ice cream, and a hint of halvah materialize.

Palate - Whew, hot and peppery. Sour. I taste tannins for miles and miles. A little bit of shortbread in the background.

Finish - Hot, sour, and peppery, like the palate, but now with apples.

Comments - With easily my least favorite palate of the B group, this bourbon also slumps like Craft whiskey. I'm not sure what the Ohio pickers saw in this one, or if they even had a choice.

Rating Range: C (74-76)

OBSQ Recipe

11 years 7 months, bottled in October 2022 for ???, 54.1%abv

Nose - Very chocolatey, with subtle notes of earth, dried cherries, and rosemary. Vanilla and floral notes expand with time.

Palate - It's a big burly whiskey, not hot though. Lots of baked goods and roasted nuts. Hint o' figs.

Finish - Salt, grains, almonds, Fig Newtons, and a hint of smoke.

Comments - This one, the oldest of the ten, has caught me by surprise. It's unique and of a high quality, sort of a single malt lover's bourbon, and good pour for the winter.

Rating Range: B/B+ (85-87)

OBSV Recipe

9 years 10 months, bottled in November 2021 for ???, 53.6%abv

Nose - Like Q and K, it's dessert-y. Chocolate mousse pie and German chocolate cake. Roses and dried apricots.

Palate - Dried cherries, dried currants, dried cranberries, and maple syrup...but it's not too sweet. There's a good tartness and pepperiness going on in the background, and a nibble of Irish soda bread.

Finish - Soda bread, dried cherries, and toasted nuts.

Comments - With a palate more complex than its nose, this bourbon reminds me that I used to like the OBSV recipe too! It also seems like it could pair very well with desserts.

Rating Range: B/B+ (85-87)

CONCLUSION: There's a very clear split here: 3 "yes" bourbons (which I'd be happy to buy or drink any day), and 2 "pass" bourbons (which I wouldn't). I also appreciate the bottle strength of all 5, with all staying below 120 US proof. Not a lot of commonalities between these five, so the yeast strands and maturation locations (only F and Q have the same warehouse) are doing most of the work. The actual rye element stayed mostly quiet, speaking loudest in OBSK, the top scorer in the group. I wonder how the Es will differ...

---

The "E" Mashbill (20% rye) Tasting

OESF Recipe

9 years 10 months, bottled for Loch & K(e)y Society, 55.8%abv

Nose - Straightforward: vanilla, bubblegum, caramel sauce, and cinnamon.

Palate - Ethyl, salt, lemons, and honey arrive first, then tart cherries and cherry lollipops. Just a hint of vanilla in the background.

Finish - A decent balance of those tart cherries, cherry lollies, and honey.

Comments - It's very different than its OBSF cousin, with the hot hot palate being their only similarity. It's also better than the B version, with a better mix of oak and spirit, and some fun cherry notes.

Rating Range: B- (82-84)

OESK Recipe

10 years 6 months, bottled for Luekens Wine & Spirits, 56.6%abv

Nose - Some figurative fireworks here. Flowers, bubblegum, Dr. Brown's cherry soda, vanilla, and pickle juice!

Palate - Less hot than OESF, but similarly lemony. Charred serranos and cayenne pepper meet Big Red gum.

Finish - It's a mix of bubblegum, cayenne, and tart citrus, with the sweetness winning out.

Comments - The wild nose works, but the palate's excitement never catches up. Nothing technically wrong with it, but it's missing the B version's complexity.

Rating Range: B-/B (83-85)

OESO Recipe

9 years 5 months, bottled in August 2022 for Corners Fine Wine & Spirits, 57.5%abv

Nose - Ooh, a good one. Candy shop + oranges blossom + cinnamon roll.

Palate - Baking spices rule this one. Cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, and brown sugar first. Orange candy and dried cherries, second.

Finish - Cinnamon, cardamom, and orange candy last the longest.

Comments - While not the deepest whiskey, this bourbon is very pleasant all around, and a very easy drinker (especially at its strength). It's significantly better than its B cousin, providing an example of a lower-rye bourbon coming together better than a high-rye.

Rating Range: B (84-86)

OESQ Recipe

10 years 8 months, bottled in August 2022 for ???, 54.4%abv

Nose - Starts off a bit rough, with nothing but barrel char, but then the cherries roll in, followed by roses, maple syrup, and cherry-flavored cough syrup.

Palate - Very woody here too. It's like licking furniture. Add in its artificial lemon flavor, and maybe I'm looking at Pledge spray. Curiously, even with some sawdust added on, it's not terrible. Maybe the hints of brown sugar and black pepper help?

Finish - Drying and tannic, with a hint of cherry.

Comments - Here's the "E" group's oak monster. The nose works; the palate. a little less so; the finish, not really. It bears no resemblance to its OBSQ cousin.

Rating Range: C+ (77-79)

OESV Recipe

10 years 1 month, bottled February 18, 2020 for Schneider's of Capitol Hill, 59.6%abv

Nose - Dessert time again! Hershey's chocolate, whipped cream, mocha, and vanilla extract. You can smell the calories!

Palate - Less sugary than expected. Instead ground cloves and ginger powder layer on top of each other, with cream soda underneath, and a decent bitterness in the back.

Finish - Ground cloves, ginger powder, and a dab of chile oil.

Comments - Of all five pairs, this one comes closest to its cousin, but even here it's only in the nose. Otherwise it has its own zingy, spritely style in the mouth. I prefer the "B" version, but this one remains very good.

Rating Range: B (84-86)

CONCLUSION: Unlike the "B"s, the "E"s show some similar notes, like flowers, bubblegum, citrus, and cherries, though ultimately they are five very different bourbons (from five different warehouses). This group was less raw on the palate, but also a little less exciting. None of these were a big "yes", though none were a clearly ugly "no". 

---

FINAL THOUGHTS

The "E" Recipes' scores have a tighter grouping than the "B"s', though the two groups average out similarly (high B- for both). The wider quality variety in the "B" recipe also delivered more excitement and complexity. I'd like to think the extra rye had something to do with it. There were small connections between some of the whiskies, but these were ultimately ten different bourbons, which made the two tastings more entertaining than expected.

For the sake of completeness, here's how these bottles rank:

1. OBSK - Yes

2. OBSV - Yes

3. OBSQ - Yes

4. OESO

5. OESV

6. OESK

7. OESF

8. OESQ - Pass

9. OBSF - Pass

10. OBSO - Pass

So OBSK, OBSV, and high-rye bourbon in general still do it for me, thirteen years later.

Bea's Birthday Booze: Inchgower 37 year old 1982 Old & Rare Platinum Selection

Yes, I've just run off three 90-point reviews in a row, as if this were Whisky Advocate or something. Now I'm risking blowing even more sunshine out of my ass with today's 37 year old Inchgower. Now, Inchgowers can be weird, and I like weird, but a tragic 1982 Inchgower once found its way into my glass. Today's cask has a reasonable outturn and ABV, so no potential negative indicators there. And whiskybase's lone written review is by a reliable fellow. So I'm ready for this!

Distillery: Inchgower

Distilled by: Arthur Bell & Sons

Current owner: Diageo

Region: Speyside (Banffshire)

Independent Bottler: Hunter Laing
Range: Old & Rare
Sub-Range: Platinum Selection

Age: 37 years (1982 - 2019)

Maturation: probably a bourbon cask

Outturn: 178 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 50.1%
(from a bottle split)

NOTES

The nose is......like nothing I've smelled before. I'll try to do it justice. Stale milk chocolate + Cheerios + hay + Underberg. Sour milk + agave nectar + mint toothpaste. Apple cider and metal? Not much changes once the whisky is diluted to 46%abv, maybe more flowers, orchard fruits, and metals. Maybe?

The palate is slightly easier to describe. Bouquets of flowers encircled by a minty glow. Flower Kiss candy, white peaches, and fresh cherries. Cashews and raw wheat. Never too sweet. Diluting the whisky to 46%abv, makes it sweeter and bitterer. The florals and mint still dominate, while a comfy apple cider note expands beneath.

It finishes cheerfully, with flowers, sunflower seeds, lemons, and mint leaf. At 46%abv, there's apple cider, mint, and a rooty bitterness.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Okay, maybe I wasn't ready for this. Is it UnWhisky or ÜberWhisky? Or both? It's strange, fascinating stuff, as Inchgower can be as it gets older. Not sure if I'd make a habit of drinking this whisky, but it's truly a singular spirit. It's the mintiest single malt I've ever had, and also one of the most floral (though never perfume-y). It's also the third straight whisky that left me preferring the palate over the nose, which probably has never happened before on this site. This Inchgower is remarkably unique, not unlike Beatrice (all flowers, lemons, mint, and rooty bitterness herself) who turns six years old today.

Availability - Might still be available in Europe?
Pricing - ???
Rating - 87 (a pointless (LOL) score)

Bea's Birthday Booze: N.A.S. 30 year old Decadent Drinks

Deep within Signatory Vintage's Pitlochry warehouses, hidden in dark secret corners, casks filled with weird experiments await their freedom. We know this to be true now. Mr. Symington sold one of these mysteries to Mr. Sponge, who then bottled it for the (limited) world. I'll leave it to the Decadent Drinks site to describe their first N.A.S. (Notable Age Statement) release:

A single sherry butt of blended malt. This is vatted stock of numerous old Signatory cask samples and bottling run ends that was married and put into fresh sherry wood with a minimum age of 16 years old.

The composition is by now at least 30 years old, but contains within it many much, much older whiskies, many of which hail from closed distilleries and date back to the 1960s. We've bottled this butt at natural cask strength...

Despite all the raves written by Those Who Decide Things (TWDT), I had only moderate expectations for this vatting. TWDTs long for styles of whisky that are either extinct, or nigh on, so every hint of something resembling a whisky from another era causes tears to well in eyes and scores to find their way to 90+. The same thing happens here at Diving for Pearls, but my skepticism has calcified.

Yet I chose to drink it in honor of my younger daughter's birthday. Evidently, I'm an ass.

Bottler: Decadent Drinks (via Signatory Vintage)

Type: Blended (or Vatted) Malt

Distilleries: ???????

Age: at least 30 years

Maturation: sherry butt
Outturn: ??? bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 45.1%
(from a bottle split)

NOTES

The nose starts off beefy and leathery up front, with Highland peat, flowers, and shoe polish notes just behind. Then there are peaches, yuzus, band-aids, metal antiques, and a whiff of black coffee. There's even a dollop of toffee pudding (like a certain whisky sponge?).

Soil and dead leaves all over the palate. One of the earthiest whiskies that has ever touched this face. Tobacco, burlap, dried herbs, and the righteous tartness of unsweetened yuzu juice fill the midground. A metallic OBE note drifts through the background.

It remains intensely earthy through the finish. Cigarettes and soot arrive next, followed by umami and dried herbs.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

The nose is very good, but the palate wins me over. It's so earthy I've checked my glass twice to see if there's actual sediment present. Nope it's just the whisky. Mmmmmm, soil.

Even some very positive reviews described this 30yo as fragile, I find it quite the opposite. I've had enough low-ABV oldies (and newies) to know the feeling of a whisky that has gone delicate; this ain't it. Yeah, I wouldn't encourage adding water to this malt, but that's mostly because at full strength it's a bruiser, thick and powerful. What else ya got, Mr. Symington?

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - ???
Rating - 90

Bea's Birthday Booze: Ben Nevis 25 year old 1984, cask 98/35/13

My previous Ben Nevis review posted to this site 361 days ago. In honor of my daughter Beatrice's fifth birthday, I reviewed a 25 year old official Ben Nevis single cask (98/35/1) that was distilled in 1984.

Today, in honor of Beatrice's sixth birthday, I am reviewing a 25 year old official Ben Nevis single cask (98/35/13) that was distilled in 1984.

There were at least six single casks from this parcel, each receiving the same re-racking treatment. Distilled in December 1984, the spirit was deposited into bourbon casks, in which it baked until October 1998 when the whisky was then poured ("vatted" per the labels) into sherry casks, where it continued to mature until bottling time.

With 13+ years in bourbon casks and 11+ years in sherry casks, 98/35/1 and 98/35/13 had true double maturations. 98/35/1 was cask-heavy, but never tannic. I hope for something similar or better from 98/35/13. The whiskybase community certainly adores this cask.

Damn good photo if I do say so my damn self

Distillery: Ben Nevis
Region: Highlands (Western)
Age: 25 years old (December 1984 - May 2010)
Maturation: Bourbon: Dec 1984 - October 1998; then Sherry: October 1998 - May 2010
Cask #: 98/35/13
Outturn: 638 bottles
Alcohol by Volume: 55.4%
(from a bottle split)

NEAT

Yeah, the nose is probably 90% cask, but it's very nice. Dried cherries in very dark chocolate. Dried mango and a few figs. Maple and grape jam. In the background: a dunnage by the ocean. The palate is warm and toasty, with plenty of oak spice up front. Raspberries, oranges, walnuts, dark grapes, and honey fill the midground......then a burst of xocolatl, Mexican chocolate, takes over, full of cinnamon and chiles. That big note remains through the long finish, with limes and grapes in the background.

DILUTED to ~46%abv, or 1¼ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

The nose begins with raisins, toffee, milkier chocolate, and a hint of dunnage. As the water integrates, out come nectarines, orange blossoms, and some Jamaican rum-style dunder. The cask gets heavier in the palate. All oak spices and Mexican chocolate until it suddenly changes. And there it is: strange organic peat mouldering in a damp basement. Yes! It finishes tangy, full of chiles, lightly smoky, and with a few nectarines tossed in.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Twice the palate shifts colors, dramatically. With the Ben Nevis diluted to 46%abv, its wonderful eccentricity materializes out of nowhere, like a koan instantly manifesting a truth long hidden. When the whisky is at its full strength, the raucous Mexican chocolate spontaneously blasts through everything around it. Like the Kool-Aid Man. Oh yeah.

This is the better cask. I have nothing else to add.

Availability - Secondary market
Pricing - !!!!
Rating - 90

Concluding 2023's Bunnahabhain Cluster

(Bunnahabhain cluster 2023 homepage)

If one just scrolls down to see the rating for these 13 Bunnahabhains, that person may go, "Meh. Another set of 81-90 point whiskies."

And a defense of that could be, "Yeah, Bunnahabhain can be boringly great. Is that a crime?" But really, I struggle using one number to summarize a whisky's experience. Many of these Bunnas were a wild ride as I searched to find their honey spot. Did they need water or time, or neither? So perhaps a better way to demonstrate my three weeks is by using a letter-grade range, taking into consideration each one's peaks and valleys:

So this cluster really swung between C grade and A- grade experiences. This is why I've been qualifying my grades more frequently recently, to help pinpoint strengths.

Some of these whiskies were oak dominant, like the 28yo 1988 and the 10yo 2009 (quite the age range), while others, like the 23yo 1991 were nearly nude. There was a monster and a pipsqueak. And then there were the Goldilocks whiskies, the current 12yo and the 33yo 1980, that were juuuuuuust right.

Perhaps that's the tale of many single malts, but these Bunnahabhains had no peat to hide behind. Yes, when Laphroaig and Lagavulin get it right, they are divine. But Bunnahabhain can shine as bright or brighter when all the chemistry works. And that's sort of the point of our whisky quests isn't it? To discover what works for our palates and what doesn't?

So is a 81-90 point single malt "boring"? Or is it "reliable"? I'll go with the latter, knowing I came out of this cluster a bigger Bunnahabhain fan than before.