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Showing posts with label Glenfarclas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Glenfarclas. Show all posts

Thursday, March 28, 2024

Speyside's Finest 32 year old 1989 Old Malt Cask, cask HL18977

No qualifier on this one. This is Speyside's Finest, as per Hunter Laing. So the whisky should knock me on my ass, or my face, or my assface. This particular Glenfarclas Finest spent 32 years in a refill hoggie, so it has my attention. Time provided it with an excellent drinking strength, so I shall now wet my whistle.

Distillery: Glenfarclas
Region: Speyside (Central)
Independent Bottler: Hunter Laing
Series: Old Malt Cask
Age: 32 years old (Dec 1989 - Jan 2022)
Maturation: refill hogshead
Cask #: HL18977
Exclusive to: The US of A
Alcohol by Volume: 45.8%
(from a bottle split)

NOTES

Fruit juices lead the way in the nose, with apple, kiwi, and white peach right up front. New notes arrive slowly. A dusting of vanilla powder. Twizzlers. Newspaper print. Musty oak. Vanilla frosting starts taking over 45 minutes in, with the fresh fruit retreating but not vanishing.

The palate arrives quietly. Soft florals, tangy citrus, a slight creaminess, and a whiff of old oak. It opens up after 30 minutes as key lime pie and Thai chiles appear. With more time in the glass, the whisky gets tarter and sweeter.

Key lime pie and agave nectar stick the longest in the sweet finish, with hints of wood smoke and bitterness far behind.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Far from actually being Speyside's Finest, this whisky is a pleasant, easy drinker. Unlike many older whiskies, it's best consumed early. Don't let it sit in the glass too long, or else the oak will take over, especially in the nose. Like Tuesday's "Probably", this bottle's price was very reasonable considering the whisky's age, but as far as quality goes, it registers as more of a "session" whisky than Nikka's NAS attempt.

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - it was less than $200, two years ago
Rating - 85

Tuesday, March 26, 2024

Probably Speyside's Finest 28 year old 1992 Old & Rare for K&L

Sometimes the Laings are confident in their secret Speyside distillery's single casks, naming them Speyside's Finest, but sometimes they're less sure, offering qualifiers such as "Probably", "Possibly", "Plausibly", and "Perhaps", as with today's whisky, named Probably Speyside's Finest. Is there a code here or are all of these whiskies of the 'Farclas sort? I really don't know, and I'm not the biggest fan of distilleries who forbid the usage of their names on their own malts bottled by independents.

Hunter Laing bottled this refill barrel for their Old & Rare series, slinging it exclusively through California's K&L Wine Merchants during the peak Covid months. It still sold through as its price was very reasonable for a 28yo.

Distillery: Glenfarclas
Region: Speyside (Central)
Independent Bottler: Hunter Laing
Series: Old & Rare
Age: 28 years old (1992 - 2020)
Maturation: refill bourbon barrel
Exclusive to: K&L Wine Merchants
Alcohol by Volume: 47.4%
(from a bottle split)

NOTES

Orange blossoms and orange oil lead the nose, followed by a little bit of wood smoke and caramel sauce. The smoke shifts towards an earthiness, the oranges to yellow peaches, and the orange blossoms to roses.

Lychees and limes mix with smoke chiles on the palate. Mangoes meet subtle tannin. After 45-ish minutes more toasted oak spices and a hint of savoriness appear.

Truffle salt and black pepper make up much of the finish, with quieter notes of mango and smoke linger behind.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Because I normally find bourbon cask unnamed-Glenfarclases to be underwhelming, this cask was a nice surprise. I'm not sure where the smoke comes from, but it plays well with the fruit and oak. Tannins never take over, nor does the sweetness. It's a good, balanced Speyside single malt with some oomph. If you're searching for a sherried Glenfarclas, look elsewhere.

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - it was $179.99
Rating - 87

Friday, August 25, 2023

Birthday Booze: Speyside 45 year old 1973 TWE, Magic of the Cask

I'm 10 years old!

When attempting to source whiskies that match my actual age, I'm mostly limited to these 1970s teaspooned Glenfarclas, er, "Blended Malts". (See a 41yo here and a 43yo here.) That's what the market offers. The majority of 40+ year old whiskies ain't getting split. Hell, I don't think they're even being opened anymore. Today's "Speyside" will be the penultimate not-Glenfarclas I will review. I'll just have to get more creative as the birthday number increases.

Today's Glenfarclas Speyside is from The Whisky Exchange's Magic of the Cask range bottled for their 2019 Whisky Show. Its 549-bottle outturn and 45.1%abv has me thinking it was recasked into a sherry butt at some point towards the end of its life. Maybe from a pair of casks? Anyway, it has a good drinking strength, so I'm going to drink it.

Distillery: Glenfahrvergnügen
Region: Speyside, perhaps?
Independent Bottler: The Whisky Exchange
Range: Magic of the Cask, for The Whisky Show 2019
Age: 45 years old (1973 - 2019)
Maturation: sherry butt
Cask #: 6
Outturn: 549 bottles
Alcohol by Volume: 45.1%
(from a bottle split)

NOTES

The nose shows off the old pretty cask, starting with dried apricots, almond extract, and old furniture. Candied ginger + baked apples, then peaches + clover honey with a metallic hint in the background. Old stamp glue and potpourri. The old wood note expands with time.

The palate begins with a blast of oak spices and toasted coconut. The subsequent sips bring tart oranges, macrons, very sweet lemon candy, and just a little bit of hot cocoa mix around the edges. It gets tarter and more tannic with every sip.

The finish sheds the tartness and goes all in on the sweets and oak. Baked apples, lemon candy, and plain ol' sugar meets eucalyptus + big peppery tannin.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

I'm going to be the party pooper here. Whiskybase has it at nearly 90 and WhiskyFun has it at 89 (twice). Those scores are very generous. And I get it. Old whisky critters inspire compassion and wistfulness. Hell, my score might be on the optimistic side as well.

This is oak juice, very good oak juice, but still oak juice. Sometimes oak juice can be lovely and moderately complex, but it frequently isn't. I'm not saying this is one dimensional 45yo stuff — a lot of bright fruity bits break through — but it's the simplest of this week's three whiskies. At times it seems like an old single grain, though it has the silky mouthfeel and texture that seem to come from only 100% malt. To end on a more positive note, this does seem to be a lot better than the 41yo Speyside from four years back. Perhaps Year 45 will be better than Year 41 for yours truly; I certainly hope so!

Availability - Secondary market
Pricing - ???
Rating - 85 (probably too charitable)

Monday, October 3, 2022

Bea's Birthday Booze: Glenfarclas 1965-2005 Scott's Selection

Beatrice turns five years old this week. This means she will promptly exit the fearsome, frightful, forever fours, right? Please? We just completed a very bumpy weekend together, and I'm navigating food poisoning so I'll have something cute to say about my youngest on another post.

According to a whiskyfun post from 15(!) years ago, today's independently bottled whisky caused some trouble because Scott's Selection dared list Glenfarclas's name on the label. Serge also loved the heck out of the whisky. Did I also love the heck out of it?


Distillery: Glenfarclas
Ownership: J&G Grant
Region: Speyside (Central)
Bottler: Scott's Selection
Age: ~40 years (1965 - 2005)
Maturation: "Oakwood casks" (yep)
Outturn: ???
Alcohol by Volume: 48.5%
(A big thank you to Cobo!!!)

NOTES

This nose has four quadrants. First, the old stuff: dunnage, mothballs and dusty leather. Second, the fruits: guava and pineapple juices. Third, desserts: toffee and milk chocolate. Fourth, the curios: rotting kelp on the beach and calamine lotion. Sometimes these zones cross, and sometimes they segregate. It works, though.

Sadly the palate falls short of the nose. It's a bit dusty, sweet and bitter at the start, with notes of anise, limes, burlap and plums in the mid- to background. But then oak takes over. Beyond the woody bitterness and tannin, I can sort out a few new notes like soil, coffee grounds and baking chocolate.

It finishes with menthol, wormwood and black coffee after early sips. Later sips turn into a mix of lime juice and oak juice.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

No, I was not smitten with this one, though if the palate matched the nose this would have been quite an entertaining sipper. But also, I'm not a diehard fan of ultra-aged Glenfarclas, with their 43yo cognac cask being a rare exception. The spirit seems to be hyper extractive, which works well for their younger sherried products, but starts pulling up splinters by the fourth decade. Cobo, who generously provided this sample, was also less enamored of it than ol' WF was. The nose was what salvaged it for me, but, again, whisky is made for drinking.

Availability - Secondary market?
Pricing - ????
Rating - 83

Friday, August 27, 2021

Birthday Booze: Speyside Region 43 year old 1973 The Whisky Agency

I don't know why I chose a pair of 43 year old whiskies, because I'm only turning 23 this week. Heh heh. Heh. Ugh.

Monday's 43yo was a strange lovely thing, a Cognac cask-matured Glenfarclas. Today's whisky is a "Speyside Region". Whiskybase lists it as a "blended malt", while the bottle label just says "Malt" (neither single nor blended). It may or may not be from Glenfarclas, it may or may not be from a fino cask. I'll drink the thing no matter what, but these games aren't very fun.

This whisky is quite beloved by many of those who have consumed it, including Ruben and Serge, who both gave it a 93-point score. I tried a 41yo 1975 fino cask "Speyside Region" two years ago and was underwhelmed. Perhaps it was just me, as my score is tied for the lowest on that 41yo's Whiskybase page, but that experience will keep my enthusiasm for this 43yo in check, unless the whisky changes my mind. Please change my mind, whisky.

Distillery: Glen Fart Glass?
Region: Speyside (maybe)
Independent Bottler: The Whisky Agency
Age: 43 years old (1973 - 2017)
Maturation: a butt of some sort
Outturn: 568 bottles
Exclusive to: The Whisky Exchange
Alcohol by Volume: 47.4%
(from a bottle split)

NOTES

This is definitely not a sherry bomb. Instead the nose begins with brine, mango, basil and graceful old oak. It gets fruitier with time, but I can't pin down the exotic fruit. There are some white nectarines and blueberry pies involved, though. Some citronella around the edges. A dash of Pecorino Romano as well.

Woo, it has some fight left in it. Citrus peels, cinnamon sticks and tons of very dark chocolate on the palate. It balances a peppery burst with baking spices (dried ginger and whole cloves), while an autumnal forest floor note gradually builds with time.

It finishes with eucalyptus, yuzu, honey, dried ginger and cloves.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

This was much better than the 41yo "Speyside Region", or at least I think it was, per my notes of the 41. I did try it side by side with the Cognac cask 'Farclas, and I loved them both. The official Farclas came out on top due to its dazzling unique style, but this 43yo Mystery Meat is excellent. Its success is due to the cask —as it usually is with spirits of a certain age — which I'm inclined to believe was indeed a fino sherry butt, and possibly not a first fill at that. Happy Friday, everyone!

Availability - Secondary market
Pricing - Oh my goodness
Rating - 90

Monday, August 23, 2021

Birthday Booze: Glenfarclas 43 year old Cognac Cask matured

I interrupt your regularly scheduled Highland Park cluster program with birthday booze! Sorry, folks, it's an annual thing. There will be both curios and sensible choices this year. Today's whisky fits into both categories.

Bottled in May of 2010, thus distilled in 1967 or earlier, this Glenfarclas comes with a label that doesn't specify whether the whisky spent its entire life in cognac casks or just a smaller portion of its maturation time (though it may be related to this bottling). Having now completed the tasting, I'm going to posit that it very well may have been the former. It is unlike any whisky or brandy I've tried.

Distillery: Glenfarclas
Ownership: J&G Grant
Region: Speyside (Central)
Age: minimum 43 years old (1967? - 14 May 2010)
Maturation: Cognac casks
Outturn: ???
Alcohol by Volume: 40.7%
(from a bottle split)

NOTES

It's a lovely, earthy, old hybrid spirit in the nose. At first, it's papaya, toffee, toasted walnuts and toasted oak. Then it picks up notes of Sauternes and dried cheese. (No I'm not going to say "rancio".) Then dried rosemary and coriander. After an hour it's funky honey and a worn out dollar bill.

The palate begins with gentle old oak, honeycomb and ripple of lime zest. Then, for almost twenty minutes, it is liquid honey. At the 43-ish minute mark, it shifts gears, taking on black licorice, dark chocolate and menthol, with hints of cigarettes, apricots and loquats in the background. The figs arrive, floating around in then honey after an hour.

It has a long full finish with the figs and honey arriving after the first sips, 30 minutes in. Bitter chocolate-covered pennies and sweet oranges appear later on.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

I wonder if the whisky world will ever see anything like this again. If so, it would have to come from a relatively independent distillery like Glenfarclas. Hopefully someone tries it, because the resulting quality of this experiment was very high.

Like the ultra-aged G&M Glen Grants, this Glenfarclas registers gloriously rich even at 40.7%abv. It was almost profanely honeyed in the mouth; then fruits (figs and -quats), ancient oak and a puff of smoke join in, making each small sip fascinating. But that's nothing compared to the nose, where it was a glass-bound but puckish changeling, destined to sprout wings and fly away if I let it sit any longer.

Which is to say, I kinda liked the stuff.

Availability - Secondary market
Pricing - About 3x-4x its original price. Time machine, people!
Rating - 92

Friday, October 23, 2020

Glenfarclas 1989 Family Cask for Astor Wines

While it seems like there are over a thousand US liquor stores that get their own exclusive bourbon casks, there are a less than a dozen shops that are still receiving supplies of exclusive single malt scotch casks. Astor Wines in NYC is one of those lucky stores. They got their mitts one of the so-called Family Casks, Glenfarclas's ultra-premium priced official honey casks. 

I don't think I would have ever reviewed one of these famed Family Casks had MAO not sent me a sample of this bourbon cask GF FC, sold exclusively through Astor Wines six years ago.

Distillery: Glenfarclas
Ownership: J&G Grant
Region: Speyside (Central)
Age: around 24 years (1989 - 20 November 2013)
Maturation: bourbon cask
Cask #: 7299
Outturn: 236 bottles
Exclusive to: Astor Wines
Alcohol by Volume: 57.4%
Chillfiltered? No
Colored? No
(Thank you to My Annoying Opinions for the sample!)

NEAT
Wow, bourbony. There's butter, caramel, almond extract and vanilla extract on the nose, with vanilla porter and orange peels in the background. The palate starts off like a corny wheated bourbon, then takes a quirky turn with notes of band-aids and mesquite. One also finds milky chocolate, crystalized ginger and lemons scattered about. It finishes with vanilla, sugar, lemons and heat.

DILUTED TO ~46%abv, or 1½ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
The nose reads similarly, though it tilts more towards caramel candy and almond extract. Some new minor fabric and burlap notes, as well as a whiff of wood smoke. The palate becomes very sweet. Lots of vanilla. More tannins. Slightly mossy. The finish is similar to the palate, but with hints of oranges and wood smoke.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
Son, I am disappoint. While it's not a mess like last month's Bourbon Nevis, this whisky is all American Oak all the time. And while there is very little single malt left in the mix, the oak never dives into bitter realms. It also smells like liquid candy. Adding water sends the palate to tooth-rotting territory as well. Again, this isn't a whiskyfail, but the baby Faultline Casks won the battle by a good measure.

There were two good-to-very-good Glenfarclases this week and two relative disappointments. This doesn't move my Glenfarclas meter because these results could happen to nearly any distillery. Though I don't think I've ever been WOWed by something from these folks, next time I review Glenfarclases (in 2021?) the whiskies themselves will be much much older. So, someday...?

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - ???
Rating - 81

Thursday, October 22, 2020

Glenfarclas Faultline Casks for K&L Wine Merchants

Officially, this K&L Wine Merchants exclusive has no age statement and is not a single cask. Unofficially, it's a from a trio of (1st fill sherry) casks approximately nine years of age. It's exactly 57%abv, so it might be cask strength. I think the price started at $100 and was later lowered to $85, so it was ultimately in line with the US price of the regular NAS 105 bottling. It sold out 3 or 4 years ago and there aren't many reviews of it online.

Those are just bits of info that don't actually add up to anything. I must drink this now.

Distillery: Glenfarclas
Ownership: J&G Grant
Region: Speyside (Central)
Age: approximately 9 years old
Maturation: three first-fill sherry casks
Exclusive to: K&L Wine Merchants
Alcohol by Volume: 57%
Chillfiltered? No
Colored? No
(Thank you to Saint Brett for the sample!)

NEAT
Lots of dense dried fruits from the sherry cask meet up with saline, brine and mushrooms in the whisky's nose. Anise, almond butter, pound cake and newspaper print notes follow. Lots of cask action on the palate as well. Spicy cigars, dried cherries and salty toffee. Tart limes, mild sweetness and a tannic hint rest in the background. A simple balance of tart berry sweetness and lemon tartness continues lingers through the finish, as does the salty toffee note.

DILUTED TO ~46%abv, or 1½ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
It's a different whisky now. There are roasted nuts and grains in the nose, as well as charred marshmallows and graham crackers (almost s'mores!), a pinch of wood spice and a dunnage whiff. Marshmallows, toffee, lime juice, dried cranberries and baking chocolate in the palate. It finishes tart and peppery with a little bit of sweetness.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
If only Glenfarclas could massively upscale this recipe, it would be a great replacement for the NAS 105. It's good young sherry cask stuff. I enjoyed the nose's darker notes, and found the palate to be very easy drinkin' both neat and diluted. It's nice to have a positive surprise once in a while. Tomorrow we'll see how this youngling fared next to one of Glenfarclas's Family Casks.

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - $85-$100
Rating - 86

Wednesday, October 21, 2020

Glenfarclas 25 year old

I don't know if I've ever tried Glenfarclas 25. Certainly haven't reviewed it. In a previous life I considered buying it blindly because it was the most affordable 25 year old sherry cask single malt on the market. But advanced age and sherry casks (and Glenfarclas) don't always guarantee excellent whisky. So after all these years I settled on a bottle split.

The 43% abv is better than 40%, but have they ever explained why it's not 46%? Increase the alcohol content by 7% and raise the price 14%. It's the cool thing to do.

On Monday I enjoyed the 22yo 105, and now it will spar with the regular 25.

Distillery: Glenfarclas
Ownership: J&G Grant
Region: Speyside (Central)
Age: minimum 25 years
Maturation: sherry casks
Alcohol by Volume: 43%
Chillfiltered? Probably
Colored? No
(from a bottle split)

NEAT NOTES
Fruitier than expected, the nose delivers pears, apple skins, honeydew and dried currants. It also has buttery butterscotch and flowers, as well as hints of yeast and cloves. With time it develops a 🙂 Nutella note and a 🙁 cardboard note. The palate has a watery texture and needs some time to wake up. It's mildly sweet with toffee and generic citrus. Almonds, vanilla extract and mocha. It gets more tannins and caramel with time. More vanilla and pepper in the finish, with hints of dried apricots and copper.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
This is what fuels my Glenfarclas ambivalence. While it's a fairly acceptable drink, the 25 feels like mass-produced whisky along the lines of Glenfiddich (picture their standard 15yo). I'm suspicious of claims that these 25s aren't chillfiltered because this is extremely thin in the mouth, and that winds up being its biggest flaw. TRIGGER WARNING, I put the second half of the sample on a big ice cube and it was very drinkable. It stood no chance next to the 22yo 105, though that one was at its worst at the 43%abv marker too. No matter what the price tag may be, I have no need to buy a bottle of the 25.

Availability - both hemispheres
Pricing - $120 to $180 (Europe and Japan), $150 to $200 (USA), 
Rating - 83

Monday, October 19, 2020

Glenfarclas 22 year old 105

I am ambivalent about Glenfarclas.

Did I lose you? Did I lose everyone?

I used to adore the standard Glenfarclas 105 in my early single malt years, then I bought a liter of the stuff in 2016 and really did not like it. The 15yo was my favorite from their range, then I bought a bottle of it in 2016 and found it......fine. The 10 and 12 are also fine, probably better than current Macallan at the same age, but that's not saying a whole lot. I appreciate that they're still a family-run business and wee George Grant was really nice when I met him a zillion years ago. But I don't see the point to the enforced anonymity of their independent bottlings; it doesn't seem to improve their brand, wouldn't outing their name wouldn't hurt a thing.

BUT recently I've been appreciating well-balanced sherry cask whiskies more than I used to. That could be either good or bad timing for this four-part Glenfarclas Week, depending on the whiskies I've chosen. All four whiskies are official releases, one from the standard range, two exclusives to the US market and one curio I've been waiting to try since I'd first heard about it. I'll begin with the curio.

To celebrate Glenfarclas 105's 50th birthday, the Grants plopped 3600 bottles of a 22 year old 105 onto the European market. Oddly, it's still available on the primary market, two years later. I almost bought it blind last year, then a voice in my head said "Dude." So I didn't. But I did take part in a bottle split to grab a few ounces this year.

Distillery: Glenfarclas
Ownership: J&G Grant
Region: Speyside (Central)
Age: minimum 22 years
Maturation: sherry casks
Bottling year: 2018
Outturn: 3600 bottles
Alcohol by Volume: 60%
Chillfiltered? No
Colored? No
(from a bottle split)

NEAT
The nose begins with stones and roses, almonds and wool. Citronella, amaretto and Luxardo cherries. Smaller notes of pine, peach skins and brown sugar in the background. There's a lot of heat and noise in the palate at first. Orange candy, Luxardo cherries, peaches and dried cranberries appear once the heat clears out. There are minor notes of figs, pine and plantains. It has a good fruity sweetness overall. Dried berries, figs, metals and rock salt in the simple finish.

DILUTED TO ~50%abv, or 1¼ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
The nose gains focus and earthiness. Citronella and lemons meet wool, palo santo and an organic peat moss-ish note. The palate has a good bitterness mixed with creme de cassis, young armagnac and a hint of wood smoke. Then figs, lemons, dried cherries and carob arrive after a few minutes. It finishes in a similar fashion with more metals and smoke, and a little less fruit.

That worked well. How about a little more water to lower the ABV to the Glenfarclas standard?

DILUTED TO ~43%abv, or 2½ tsp of water per original 30mL whisky
Ah, things start falling apart at this level. The nose has generic sherry notes, something vaguely farty, bits of moss, cloves and pears. Sugar, eau de vie, vanilla, pepper and tart citrus in the palate. Caramel, metal and tart citrus in the finish.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
This is the best Glenfarclas I've had in a while — though I haven't had any Glenfarcli in a while — but one must be gentle with the water. Though it was quite good at full power, I liked it best at the 50%abv mark, buyer beware at levels lower than that. But it's a good start to the week! Figs! I shall see how this stands up next to the standard 25-year-old on Wednesday.

Availability - Continental Europe
Pricing - €200 to €300
Rating - 88

Wednesday, August 28, 2019

Birthday Booze: Speyside Region 41 year old 1975 Antique Lions of Spirits

There seems to be a number of 1975 "Speyside Region" single malts that were aged in Fino sherry casks and bottled at advanced ages. I do wonder if they all spent their entire lives in Fino casks because who really was buying up a bunch of Fino casks in the mid-seventies just to fill with Glenfarclas(?) spirit?

The cynicism is just a way to hide the fact that I'm pretty excited about this whisky. Here's my 41 year old pour for my 14th birthday.


Distillery: Glen First Class?
Region: Speyside (obvs)
Independent Bottler: Antique Lions of Spirits
Series: The Birds
Age: 41 years old (1975 - 2016)
Maturation: Fino Sherry Cask
Outturn: 230
Alcohol by Volume: 46.9%
(from a purchased sample)

The autumnal nose is wonderfully excessive. Old rye, fresh fruit cake and roasted almonds. Apple cider, fruity cinnamon, nutmeg, lemon peel. It's as if someone is simmering some awesome mulled wine right in the glass. Vigorous tannins stop just short of nuking the palate. Mulled wine flows somewhere behind that creaky door. Then Old Red gum, salt, metal, apple skins and a whiff of dunnage. After an hour, nuts and dried fruit escape their woody captor, but then they're chased by bitter oak. The metallic, tannic finish has apple skins and cinnamon sticks. Hints of nutmeg, wood smoke and bitterness.

The same old oak that sculpted such a lovely sniffer also produced the lumbering (ha!) palate. I find this same issue with a certain famous (hint: It's the Pappy Van Winkle of Bourbon) bourbon brand's 20 and 23 year old bottlings. Smells great, tastes like furniture. Whatever the cask situation was for this "Speyside Region", the nose is a riot. I'm not sure how a palate could match it, but tannins tannins tannins tannins tannins tannins falls short of even mild expectations. Or it was wrong for me to hope a whisky wouldn't start to fall apart at age forty-one, unlike some of us.

Availability - ???
Pricing - around €600
Rating - 85

Friday, August 18, 2017

Speyside Region (Glenfarclas) 20 year old 1994 Whisky-Fässle

Our house has fleas. And we have no pets. Those bloodsuckers hitched their way inside on our clothing and now have taken up residence on both floors. Three people live in this house, but the fleas are only aware of one. Me. Because I am one delicious piece of foot.

In order to combat the fleas, I did some scientific research and came to a conclusion. I'm going to drink so much that the alcohol content of my blood will poison every jumping bastard that bites me. It's science. It's got to work.

Here's a sample of another Glenfarclas that couldn't be called "Glenfarclas".


This time it's from a sherry butt. And the bottle had a duck on it. At least Whisky-Fässle didn't say it was from Speyside's finest distillery, because enough with that silliness.

Distillery: Glenfarclas
Region: Speyside (Central)
Independent Bottler: Whisky-Fässle
Series: Ducks?
Age: 20 years old (1994-2015)
Maturation: Sherry butt
Alcohol by Volume: 53.2%
Chillfiltered? No
Colored? No
(Sample arrived via swap with My Annoying Opinions.)

NEAT
The nose starts of nice, but blurry. Some shoe leather, cherry candy and mint. But a lot of air opens it up. Earthy and herbal up front, prunes second. Fresh pear. A good whiff of gunpowder. Small floral note. The palate is bracingly bitter, like a grapefruit and Campari combo. Walnuts, salt, lawn, a slight tarry woof. A quirky aquatic note meets caramel sauce. It finishes with sour cranberries and mochi with bitter chocolate. Peaches, lawn, herbal liqueur and salt. Quite long.

WITH WATER (~46%abv)
The nose reads more like a classic sherried malt. More dried fruit, canned peaches and toffee. The palate still has that bitter belt to it. Some fresh stone fruits, tart citrus and a hint of grains. It finishes bitter, fruity and salty.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
That bitterness is fascinating. MAO reads it as oak. And though I don't disagree, it doesn't taste like American oak. Perhaps they used actual European oak for this cask? It's a great bitterness though, if that's one's style. Add that to the salt and gunpowder and we have an entertaining whisky here. But it's the fruit that lifts it up and provides dimension, ultimately. Water tames the beast, but not entirely. I might even prefer it diluted. Good fruits.

Happy Friday. We made it.

Availability -
Only to be found at Shinanoya, oddly, two years later

Pricing - was around €110 (w/VAT), costs almost twice that now
Rating - 87

Wednesday, August 16, 2017

"Probably Speyside's Finest Distillery" (Glenfarclas) 22 year old 1991 Old Malt Cask for Binny's

Somehow I've reviewed only one "Glenfarclas" that was not allowed to be called "Glenfarclas". As is usually the case, independent bottlers aren't given permission to use the Glenfarclas name on their Glenfarclas single casks, especially when they're ex-bourbon casks as that is not part of the Glenfarclas house style. But we can call it Glenfarclas, and I've called it Glenfarclas, so that's seven counts of the Glenfarclas (eight!) name in this paragraph. So there, Glenfarclas.

This Glenfarclas is a Hunter Laing's single cask released under their popular Old Malt Cask brand. The statement in its name, "Probably Speyside's Finest Distillery", is highly debatable, and I'm not sure why Laing felt the need to kiss their arse, unless it wins them more casks.

Glenfarclas
Distillery: Glenfarclas
Region: Speyside (Central)
Independent Bottler: Hunter Laing
Series: Old Malt Cask
Age: 22 years old (June 1991 - November 2013)
Maturation: refill hogshead
Cask #: 10008
Limited bottling: 258
Alcohol by Volume: 52.4%
Exclusively sold by: Binny's
Chillfiltered? No
Colored? No
(Sample saved from an OC Scotch Club event)

Its light gold color perhaps bespeaks of minimal oak, perhaps? The nose is big on barley, apples and honey, at first. Whipped cream and vanilla in the background. Later it's all apple cider, nutmeg and orange peel. The palate is quite malty at first, and a little phenolic and funky. Lemons and a hint of vanilla. Slight sweet. A bit prickly from ethyl heat. Gets a little drying after a while. The finish is sweeter and oakier. Salt and pepper. Some funky barrel notes in there.

Nothing changed when I dropped it to ~46%abv. But at ~40%abv, it went awry. Though the nose still had the apple cider and barley, more barrel action crept in. The palate went tart and tannic, with a hint of earth. The palate was tart and bitter and soapy. So DON'T add water.

When I tried this at the event two years ago, I was underwhelmed by this Glenfarclas. Yet my first 15 minutes with it here were very pleasant. I was ready to heap some serious praise on this thing. Then the finish couldn't match the rest. Next, the oak started showing in the palate. And adding water destroyed it. The nose is the best part throughout, by far.

I haven't seen any reviews of this Glenfarclas online, nor is it in Whiskybase. Binny's might still have it in stock, which means it's been on the shelf for three years. Definitely some popular stuff right here.

Availability - Binny's
Pricing - $119.99
Rating - 84 (neat only)

Glenfarclas.

Wednesday, July 5, 2017

Glenfarclas 105, 2016 bottling (NAS, 1 litre)

I used to love luv luff Glenfarclas 105, but when I bought a bottle last year I didn't luff it. The 2016 bottling seemed hotter, thinner, less rich and (redundant adjective) younger than previous versions. And I had a whole heaping litre of it. So I brought it to an event, wherein the attendees had never tried the 105, and the remainder of the bottle vanished without any complaints.

Just for kicks, here's the link to my first review of the 105, from more than 5.5 years ago. My how this mighty whisky has fallen.


Distillery: Glenfarclas
Ownership: J&G Grant
Region: Speyside (Central)
Age: NAS, no mention of age anywhere on the label
Maturation: ex-sherry casks
Bottling year: 2016
Alcohol by Volume: 60%
Chillfiltered? No
Colored? No
(Sample from my bottle, about 1/3 of the way down)

NEAT
The nose is very floral and sugary. A bit of an earthy note combines with cinnamon sticks. But that's it for a while. After a half hour, there's some brown sugar, mint syrup and dried cherries. The palate is massively hot and drying. Lots of raw edges. Bitter oak. Some nuts and vanilla. It finishes bitter and sharp. Drying and peppery. Some sour vinegar and metal.

WITH WATER (~46%abv)
The nose remains floral, but picks up some malty notes. Hints of cherry candy and soil. No more dried fruit. A bit of wet cardboard. The palate remains drying and bitter. But it's sweeter and maltier, and it picks up a wee smoke note. The finish is also sweeter, while being less bitter and sharp. Still a bit sour and drying. Less peppery.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
To be blunt, its palate and finish are pretty awful at full power. It's reminiscent of American craft whiskey, violently incomplete with loads of oak. The nose is pretty good though, once it's aired out. Diluting the whisky saves the whisky. Its sweetness and maltiness come out to play, adding some balance to all the raw notes.

But even with added water, this version of the 105 doesn't even remotely appeal to my palate. Then again, I've been a bit of a grump lately. I just watched Pixar's Inside Out and said "meh".

MAO reviewed a 2014 bottle of 105 and was unimpressed with that one, though he seemed to find more character to it. I sincerely hope future bottlings of 105 improve. In the meantime I'd go for Tomatin CS, Glendronach CS or A'bunadh far ahead of this one.

Availability -
The litre bottles are available in Europe and Japan

Pricing - One litre: $30-$50 (Japan), $35-$55 (Europe, ex-VAT)
Rating - 79 (with water only, low 70s when neat)

Monday, July 3, 2017

Glenfarclas 15 year old, 2016 bottling

Before I bore or horrify you with my Japan whisky tales, I'll plop a couple more scheduled reviews in the blogwater. Both of these posts will be updates of reviews that were done some time ago, but this time the samples pulled from full bottles(!) that I'd utilized for recent whisky events. Two Glenfarcli, to go.

Today, it's a review of the 2016 bottling of Glen First Class, Blairfindy, Probably Speyside's Finest, Ballindalloch Glenfarclas 15 year old. It was almost unanimously the favorite at my most recent event, even though it was the second cheapest out of the six malts presented. And, for whatever it's worth, most of the people who attended the event were bigger fans of bourbon than scotch.

The 15 year old holds the distinction of being the only member of Glenfarclas's regular range that is bottled at 46%abv. Even the 30 year old is diluted to 43%. And though I haven't tried the 30, I've historically preferred the 15 over the 17, 18, 21 and 25. Either those three points and lack of filtration add a substantial richness to the whisky, or 15 years is the honey spot for 'Farclas. In any case, it is available in Europe and Asia, but not in the US of A.

I reviewed Glenfarclas 15yo more than 4.5 years ago. Jeebus. Things were different then. Anyhoo, let's see how it do.


Distillery: Glenfarclas
Ownership: J&G Grant
Region: Speyside (Central)
Age: minimum 15 years
Maturation: ex-sherry casks
Bottling year: 2016
Alcohol by Volume: 46%
Chillfiltered? No
Colored? No
(Sample from my bottle, pulled the day it was opened and finished at an event, last month)

NEAT
The color is a basic gold, lighter than my bad memory remembers the 15 to be. The nose starts with citrus, walnuts, shortbread and brine. Very little sherry cask action so far. Hints of peach and flowers. After a while in the glass, the whisky develops a solid sambuca-style anise note. Big on prunes and raisins in the palate. Yes, here are the sherry casks. Roasted coffee and caramel sauce. Those cheapie handheld apple pies that are sold alongside single-pack Twinkies. You know the ones. Toasted oak spices and black pepper in the back. It finishes with bitter coffee and prunes. Lightly salty and spicy, with that oakspice.

WITH WATER (~40%abv)
The nose is all McInotsh apples and raisins. While the palate gains some dark chocolate, sweet and sour berries, prune juice and a floral note. Still plenty of black pepper. It finishes with prunes, chocolate milk and a mild sweetness

WORDS WORDS WORDS
Though I'd be happy to recommend this whisky over all the Macallan products under 18 years of age, and many batches of the Mac 18, my enthusiasm about the Farclas Fifteen has dampened slightly. It's a good example of well-matured sherry cask whisky with a good presentation and a good price. I don't think one can get a better sherried whisky at the $50-$60 range. But...

...the thrill is gone. It's gone away. Maybe it's me. Maybe it's the whisky. In fact *gasp* I liked it better diluted to 40%abv. The chocolate part reveals itself there. Perhaps I should have paired the whisky with Nutella.

I'm kinda glad I didn't bring home a bottle of it from Japan. Whisky bottles violate the laws of physics, becoming remarkably heavy, once they enter one's luggage.

Availability - Everywhere except here
Pricing - $45-$65 (ex-VAT), hasn't changed in four years
Rating - 84

Monday, May 1, 2017

Speyside (Glenfarclas?) 10 year old 2004 Exclusive Malts, Port cask finish

I was going to do a whole week of port cask whiskies, but there's been a wee change of plans. Though today's whisky is porty, the full week of port cask goodness has been delayed until next week.

This single malt's spirit was distilled by a Speyside distillery that elected to prevent this independent bottler from using its name. There's a certain family-owned Speyside distillery has a habit of doing this, especially when indie bottlers release their single malt not aged in sherry casks. While I can't guarantee this whisky was distilled by Glenfarclas, I will say that's my guess is it's Glenfarclas. If so, it was a cool idea for David Stirk's The Creative Whisky Company to give folks a chance to try it port cask-style.

Distillery: Glenfarclas?
Region: Speyside
Independent Bottler: The Creative Whisky Co.
Series: Exclusive Malts
Age: 10 years old (May 2004 - August 2004)
Maturation: port cask
Limited bottling: 296
Alcohol by Volume: 57.7%
Chillfiltered? No
Colored? No
(Thank you to Mr. Perkins for this sample!)

NEAT
Its color is very dark and rosy. The nose is full of chocolate—rather than berry—port notes. It's a bit hot, sharp and young, but it's also full of barley notes that stand up to the wine. Earthy, candied, a little floral. Hints of cassis juice and nectarines. In the palate, it's the berry port notes that show up. It's hot and sweet. A little bit of good bitterness. Hints of menthol and tart citrus. Lots of port. Its warm finish is moderately sweet. Tart berries and citrus. An earthy bitterness.

WITH WATER (~46%abv)
The nose has completely changed gears. Kirsch, roses, mint leaves, cookie dough with toffee chips, brine and butter. The palate is very earthy, tart and sweet. There's some pencil lead and shavings. Salted butter. The berries are much quieter. But then they show up again in the finish. Sweet, grapey and buttery with a hint of earthiness.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
The vibrant nose is the star here. In fact, it's gorgeous when reduced to 46%abv. The port cask overwhelms the palate, when neat. The palate gets quirkier and rougher when water is added, which was an improvement in my opinion. If you like port cask whiskies, you probably won't have too much problem with this one. Other than the price, perhaps.

Availability - It's still around, a dozen or so US retailers
Pricing - $95-$105
Rating - 84 (with water only)

Thursday, May 19, 2016

Mathilda Malt Report: Glenfarclas 34 year old 1968 Old Stock Reserve

Now that these reports have moved from Islay (Ardbeg and Port Ellen) to Speyside (Benriach), let's stay there in Single Malt Central for the last two reviews.  With the previous three whiskies seeming to be from primarily ex-bourbon American oak casks, I'm going with a whisky from a pair of ex-sherry European oak casks.

Between 2000 and 2003, Glenfarclas had a series they named "Old Stock Reserve".  And it was indeed old stock that they bottled for that label, ranging from 1967 to 1970 distillate.  Some were in squat dumpies, while others were in classic tall bottles.  They all had the nice simple labels seen below:

Though Glenfarclas continued to bottle old vintages, they ended the Old Stock Reserve series name pretty quickly, replacing it with a number of different names until settling upon the current super expensive "Family Casks".  Many thank yous go out (again) to Cobo who sent me a sample of the 1968 OSR from his own bottle.


Distillery: Glenfarclas
Ownership: J. & G. Grant
Region: Speyside (Central)
Age: at least 34 years (February 7, 1968 - January 8, 2003)
Maturation: two ex-sherry casks
Cask #: 686 & 687
Bottle count: 341
Alcohol by Volume: 54.1%

Tasted alongside yesterday's 35 year old Benriach.

Its color is a very dark crimson brown.  The nose is enormous.  Damp attic, oloroso, hot fudge, blackberry syrup, and old cognac.  Then cloves, clementines, leather, and carob.  After 30 minutes, it picks up more old wood character.  After 45 minutes, the fruit comes in; think mango and apples in honey.  A fresh cilantro note lingers in the midground.  Lots of baking spices in the palate.  Cloves, nutmeg, black peppercorns, chili oil.  Then baking chocolate, cherry juice, and a sandalwood note reminiscent of mizunara casks.  Plenty of tannins and salt with a mild woody bitterness that actually works for me.  A hint of fired caps and apples.  The actual sherry wallop hits later on, after 30+ minutes of air, and then carries through to the lengthy finish.  Prunes and pipe tobacco.  Macintosh apples and a hint of fresh peach.  Toffee and clover honey.  A sharp tart bite meets an increasingly sweet dessert wine.

To say this is oak-heavy would be an understatement.  Normally that doesn't work for me, but that's usually with American oak.  Here (with what I believe is European oak) one can actually feel the time in the cask, the toasted staves gradually giving into the spirit, the hardy stuff left behind after decades of evaporation.  It's not punishing like the 1970 single cask bottled for K&L a few years back.  It won't pucker your cheeks and dry out your tongue.  Instead it's the aromatic spices and tobacco and chocolate which stand up front, slowly mixing with the spirit's and wine's fruits.  Yes, it is oak dominant, probably to the point where it may be slightly out of balance towards the tannins.  But it provides a more dynamic experience than the cleaner 35yo Benriach.

Availability - Auctions?
Pricing - $??? - $????
Rating - 90

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

K&L Single Cask Whisky tasting with the LA Scotch Club (Part 2)

(link to PART 1)

Let us start Part 2 with a pair of lovelies, sampled neatly.

Distillery: Caperdonich -- no link as it's now defunct :(
Independent Bottler: Sovereign (Douglas Laing)
Sold Exclusively via: K&L Wines
Age: 18 years (1994 - August 2012)
Maturation: ex-bourbon (possibly second fill?)
Region: Speyside (Rothes)
Alcohol by Volume: 58.4%

Caperdonich Distillery was Glen Grant's younger sibling, constructed by Glen Grant's ownership across the street from the older distillery.  In fact, it was known for some time as Glen Grant #2.  A very creative name.

Whisky was experiencing one of its boom phases in the 1890s, and the Grant family wanted to take advantage of that by expanding quickly in 1898.  So up the new distillery went.  Four years later, the boom ended (as *ahem* booms have been known to do) and the baby distillery was shuttered.  Over sixty years later Glenlivet Distillers bought it, spruced it up, and reopened it.  After passing between owners for a few decades, Caperdonich was closed again in 2002, this time permanently.

I'd never tried a Caperdonich before the K&L tasting.  Nor had I previously sampled any Sovereign bottlings, most likely because Sovereign is a label that Douglas Laing only sells outside The States.  (The K&L Davids have done a little trailblazing, bringing in four whiskys from the Sovereign label this year.)  When I arrived at the tasting on Wednesday night, I had no particular favorite but once the event began this one did pique my curiosity the most.

The first taste was a winner.  But as I had a long trip home at the end of the night, I scooped up a 25mL sample to try the next evening:

The color is light urine.  #1 as opposed to #2.  You're sold already, aren't you?
Wow.
Okay, let's start this again.

The color is a pale amber.  It's very herbaceous and vegetal on the nose at the start; some serious anise and pine.  But it also smells sugary and candied.  It's light on the vanilla, though heavier on banana, apples, and pencils.  There's a mossy note, followed by smoked apricots.  It's weird.  I love it.  The palate goes from chocolate to banana to pear to peat cinders.  I also found some perfumy herbs and wood smoke within the ethyl sting.  A hot hot finish.  Enormous in fact.  A big hit of white fruits, black pepper, and peat smoke.  It's actually not that peated but the note is sharp.  There's some cerealy barley couched amongst more of the gin-like herbs.  I think my chest is still warmed by it a half week later.

I'm a fan of the odd stuff.  This one won't appeal to the sweet-tooth nor the sherry-tooth nor the easy-going-tooth(?).  But it will appeal to the weird-tooth.  I've heard it takes to water well, softens it up, but I didn't force it to swim.

Availability - K&L Wines
Pricing - $125.99
Rating - 90



And then there was the oldie, the show closer, the Glenfarclas 1970.

Distillery: Glenfarclas
Ownership: J&G Grant Ltd.
Sold Exclusively via: K&L Wines
Region: Speyside (Central)
Age: 42 years (1970 - September 2012)
Maturation: ex-oloroso sherry cask
Alcohol by Volume: 56.9%

Look at that ABV.  Most 40+ year old whiskys would have alcohol content down in the low forties by that point their lives, the angels having walked away with the rest.  But this particular cask spent much of its life high up in a very warm corner of the warehouse.  As a result it aged a little like some bourbons do, with the water evaporating faster than the alcohol.  This resulted in only 134 bottles coming out of an entire sherry cask.  This is essentially whisky concentrate.

Even with my phone's goofy flash going off, the whisky's color matches the photo.  If you look above and below the label, you can see the black coffee tone.  Upon sniffing the sample at home, I instantly began pondering what it must be like to afford drinking glamorous whisky every day.  The billionaires must get spoiled for taste.  Can they still appreciate the greatness of the sensory experience?  This rich man's whisky has a glorious nose.  A Worcestershire sauce-soaked steak.  A dark rich boozy ice cream.  Brandied Hershey's syrup.  The very insides of an old European oak barrel.  The alcohol still flexes its muscles around moments of orange rind and oceanic salt.  The palate took me by surprise.  It's very salty.  The thick texture holds bitter baking chocolate, unsweetened cranberries, lots of grapes, dried cereals, and cured meats.  It's exceptionally dry and a little metallic.  The finish adheres itself to the tongue.  A duet of sea salt and bitter horseradish, followed by lemon sour candies and coffee grounds.

Those nose is phenomenal.  The palate and finish, though, really didn't do it for me.  I don't mind bitter and citric sour, but when combined with the big salt, metal, and dryness the result can cause a bit of pucker-face.  There's an unrelenting quality to all of its features that's admirable.  And its age is something be appreciated.  Going with a cask like this is a bold move on The Davids' part.  I do believe this would appeal to others' palates, especially folks who take their coffee black.

Availability - K&L Wines
Pricing - $579.99
Rating - 83



I cannot overstate the importance of K&L's Exclusive Cask work to us American whisky fans.  Compared to Europe, U.S. retailers have a limited amount of cask strength bottlings.  Even fewer independent casks.  Many of those we do get here have bloated prices.

To recap the selection from the tasting:
As you can see above, the Caperdonich would be my favorite.  The Kilchoman 100% would be second in line.  The Bruichladdich is good, but gone.  May I also recommend the very easy drinkin' Longmorn 10yr Signatory to those looking for an Exclusive in the lower price range.

Yet, of all the drams, I'm actually leaning towards buying the Faultline 10 year old North Highland.  Yes, a sherried whisky.  The reasons for this choice are as follows (in no order):
  1. It tastes good.
  2. The price.
  3. Quality-wise, it's a leap ahead of Glenm*****ie Las***a, at a similar price.
  4. I want to support the Faultline label so that we may see some more good picks in the years ahead.
Thanks again to The Davids for their excellent work.  I look forward to this year's discoveries...

Monday, March 4, 2013

K&L Single Cask Whisky tasting with the LA Scotch Club (Part 1)

Last Wednesday (2/27), 45 of us met at Blu Jam Cafe for dinner and drams with David Othenin-Girard of K&L Wines.  David brought along a slew, a flock, a murder of K&L's single cask releases for us taste (and possibly contemplate purchasing).

Here's a slightly mostly out-of-focus pic of the main lineup:

David walked us through each of these eight single malts, talking to us about the distilleries and the bottlers.  He shared some cask selection tales, as well as some industry insider info.  And, yes, there were Diageo tales, none of which am I going to repeat since they only reinforce my disgust with that company.  Despite that, it was a very positive and extremely enjoyable tour through these delectable goodies:

Glen Garioch 14 year old 1998 - 55.2% ABV - $100
Aged in a bourbon hogshead, this whisky has a lot of whole wheat bread and gingerbread on the nose with plenty of sweet fruit and honey on the palate and finish.  I'm a fan of all things Glen Garioch, both old and new, and this one was made a few years after they had stopped peating their malt.  The price may look steep, but it is GG's lowest priced cask strength bottling to date.

Faultline 10 year old North Highland Single Malt - 50% ABV - $55
Faultline is K&L's own label.  Over the past couple of years they've been able to pluck some whiskies and gins to bottle on their own and then sell at a relatively reasonable rate.

They do not disclose which distillery this malt came from and neither will I, specifically.  But I will say this, as a sherry casker it beats the daylights out of the Las***a.  That's possibly due to the fact that it spent its entire life in a sherry cask rather than just being finished in one.  Or maybe it's because that cask was a second fill.  Or maybe it has something to do with the fact that this Faultline whisky wasn't engineered to try to suit everyone's tastebuds.  No matter the reason, the whisky works.

As for the booze, it has a great silky, almost oily mouthfeel.  There's buttery caramel and toffee on the nose.  The sherry element is mild.  There's a touch of spice and cocktail bitters in the palate.

Caperdonich 18 year old 1994 (Sovereign) - 58.4% ABV - $126
I grabbed a little sample of this to take home so...
Full tasting notes on this tomorrow!

GlenDronach 19 year old 1993 - 54.7% ABV - $140
The GlenDronach single cask releases have been getting rave reviews for the last few years, so why K&L still has ton of these in stock, I don't know.  As the Davids note, it's considerably better than Macallan 18, at a higher strength, older age, smaller availability, and a lower price.

As I've written on a few occasions, my palate is really not taking to lots of sherry in my whisky, recently.  But this one was fun to try.  Dark chocolate, leather, and spent matchsticks on the nose.  Yes, something sulfur-ish.  But it was quite good.  There's some earl grey tea and cayenne pepper amongst the sherry in the palate.  The finish is sourish, not at all sweet.

Kilchoman 100% Islay Single Sherry Barrel Cask Finish - ??? ABV - $120
I missed getting the ABV on this, but it is at full strength.  Like its Kil'oman brethren, the whisky is young but of stunning quality.  Kilchoman usually gets its barley from Port Ellen at the Ardbeg peating specs.  But this one is made from local Islay barley and is peated much lower, in the 10-15ppm range.

The whisky has a bright crazy zippy nose full of pepper, ginger, and molasses.  The palate is "carrot cake, delicious, more baked sweets".  The finish reminds me, oddly, of Corsair's Wry Moon with its cinnamon and white pepper.

The Kilchoman may have been the most popular one at the event.  It's a bit out of my current price range, but if it wasn't, I would buy it yesterday.

Bruichladdich 2003 Peated Single Barrel - 54.2% ABV - $73
This one is sold out, so this is just a damned tease.

It's not that sherried, in fact it reminded me of Kilchoman.  In fact, my notes say "More Kilchoman than Kilchoman."  Otherwise, the palate is full of pepper, brown sugar, and peat.  It is solid cask strength peatness at a good price.  I won't tease you further.

BenRiach 27 year old 1984 Peated Sherry Cask - 49.6% ABV - $200
This peated malt spent its first twenty-three years in ex-bourbon, then the final four years in Pedro Ximenez casks.  I'm glad I had a chance to taste this one.  Part of my brain (the part I'm trying to corral) was trying to find some excuse to buy this blindly.  The price is considerably below almost all 40-43% whiskys of its age, let alone the cask strength ones!  Plus I'm liking the peated BenRiachs.

Happily good sense won out in the end.  It's good stuff, but I like the oddball Authenticas 21 year old better.

But for those with the means to grab this one (and it is going fast), lots of chocolate and sherried cigarettes on the nose with dried fruits and menthol on the palate.

Glenfarclas 42 year old 1970 Family Cask - 56.9% ABV - $580
Yes, you read that right.  42 years old.  56.9% ABV.  Guess who took his sample home for quiet study?
Full tasting notes on this tomorrow!

I also had the opportunity to taste these two:
Since I'm a big Signatory fan, I had been eyeing both of these bottles online and in-store.  The Longmorn is a 10 year old bottled at 46%.  The Benrinnes is a 12 year old bottled at full strength, 58.2%.  Neither disappointed, though I really enjoyed the Longmorn much more than I'd expected.

I don't have proper notes on either as they were sampled at the tail end of this epic tasting, but I can summarize.  The Benrinnes was lightly citric, mildly honeyed, light on the oak, and very drinkable despite its high ABV.  The Longmorn was lovely and light, full of vanilla and baked treats.

I must pause this entry here.  In Part 2, tomorrow, I'll post reports on two of the whiskys and give final thoughts on the whole tasting.

Sunday, December 9, 2012

Single Malt Report: Glenfarclas 105 (again) and the Bastard's Share

If you ever do a little sample swapping with me, you'll see that I electrical-tape the crap out of my sample bottles.  Whisky has a habit of finding its way out of a bottle, no matter what it takes.  When you hear about low-neck fill levels on dusty whisk(e)y bottles, that's due to the good stuff escaping through the factory-sealed cap over time (or it's due to fakery but that's a whole other post), and being replaced by oxygen.  As oxygen fills the sad empty spaces in the whisky bottle, oxidation begins.  And the whisky character changes.

The Angel's Share is the evaporation loss occurred during the cask maturation process.  The Devil's Cut is the loss caused by the oak absorbing the liquid.  I'm sure there's an official name for whisky loss via a poor bottle seal, but I'm going to call it the Bastard's Share.  Because, screw that bastard.

Case in point, my Glenfarclas minis upon purchase:


Note the slightly lower neck fill on the 105.  Sadly, I didn't notice it at the time (this past April).  What I also didn't notice is that the cap was a little loose.  Perhaps a little tightening along with some electrical tape would have helped.  But, again, I was much too excited about having these minis to study them more closely.

Zip forward to this weekend:


There was 39mL of whisky left out of the original 50mL.  A 22% loss.

Not only is it a whisky loss, but oxidation has slowly occurred since its bottling in May 2010.

So if you ever wonder why I tape up my sample bottles (and even some of my better big bottles) like crazy, this situation is the answer.  You must suffocate that whisky until it's time to drink it.

Now, way back in October 2011 I posted a single malt report on Glenfarclas 105.  It was only my ninth report and the tasting had actually happened before I'd ever considered posting whisky reviews.  I drank it out of a wide mouth tumbler in a loud bar.  Nonetheless, I loved it.

I bought this mini so that I could experience the 105 in a quiet home setting.  I also bought the mini because.  Because.

So let's give this oxidized 105 a try!

Distillery: Glenfarclas
Ownership: J&G Grant Ltd.
Region: Speyside (Central)
Age: 8 to 10 years
Maturation: ex-oloroso (and maybe fino) sherry casks
Alcohol by Volume: 60%
(Mini bottled in May 2010)

NEAT --
This thick viscous whisky's color is mahogany awash with ruby.  Considering its strength, the 105 has a surprising lack of burn on the nose.  Instead there's a whole box of plump raisins, along with dried apricots, baklava, and orange zest.  After a while there are some candy notes, like Skittles and bubble gum.  The heat arrives on the palate.  The sherry is so enormous it enters an entirely different dimension.  It starts with a brown sugar delivery, followed by rich thick swirls of dark chocolate, cloves, and pipe tobacco.  Some sweet maltiness still holds tight through all of that.  The finish holds a dry sandy sherry, dark chocolate, and pipe tobacco.  The sweetness lingers endlessly.

WITH WATER (approx. 44%ABV) --
Goes cloudy the instant water hits it.  Dry sherry on the nose, along with cherry cordials and molasses.  Maybe some citrus and floral notes.  The palate turns sweet like a liqueur.  Some molasses, sherry, and black pepper in there.  It finishes peppery and sweet.  A touch of citrus along with a floral flourish.

I liked it better neat.  But the question is, how much of the normal characteristics were corrupted by oxidation?  I'm not that bitter since I still enjoyed it.  My rating doesn't change.

A final note on price.  You should buy this via a UK retailer.  See below.

Availability - Many liquor specialists
Pricing - $80-$90 (US retailers) or $50-$65 (UK retailers, no VAT, before shipping)
Rating - 90