High West A Midwinter Night's Dram in 3 Scenes

It's been long time since I've scrapped a week's worth of posts and then started over, but now here I am. Originally, this single post was going to be three separate posts with some bad Shakespeare jokes, but once I sat down to do this Triple Taste Off, I started noticing a difference in the underlying ryes. After doing some quick googling, I realized the rye recipes had changed, and I was reminded of my "Constellation Brands blows up High West Rendezvous Rye" post from 2019.

For those of you who have forgotten the High West tale, here's a recap. In 2016 Constellation Brands bought High West Distillery, a distillery who had to that point succeeded due to its blending of sourced whiskey rather than actual distillation, for $160 million. Between 2017 and 2018, High West ran out of its old sourced rye from Barton distillery, and swapped out the well-aged portion of their rye blends from that distillery for the very young rye from their own distillery, creating a sudden shift in the character of all their ryes.

My favorite post from the post-tasting snooping, Bourbon Culture's review of MWND Acts 5 through 10, dished out the above information, and more.

As Culture notes, the Midwinter Night's Dram Act 5 (aka 2017) batch recipe was:

"Website Description: A blend of older rye whiskeys ranging from 5 to 19 years 

95% rye, 5% barley malt from MGP 

53% rye, 37% corn, 10% barley malt from Barton Distillery 

80% rye, 10% corn, 10% barley malt from Barton Distillery"

The transition began with the Act 6 scenes/batches (from 2018):

"Website Description: A blend of older Straight Rye whiskeys ranging in age from 5 to 19 years 

95% rye, 5% barley malt from MGP 

80% rye, 20% malted rye from High West Distillery 

53% rye, 37% corn, 10% barley malt from Barton Distillery

80% rye, 10% corn, 10% barley malt from Barton Distillery"

And in 2019, the shift was complete with Act 7:

"Website Description: A blend of Straight Rye Whiskies including 95% rye, 5% barley malt from MGP and 80% rye, 20% malted rye from HWD. 

Website Description for 2019 Rendezvous Rye says that it contains 4 to 7 year old rye whiskey that is a mix of sourced and in-house distilled ryes."

As you weathered whisk(e)y fanatics can already guess, the price of the much younger rye did not go down, but rather increased. And, as Culture covers in another post, Constellation has aggressively increased the MWND outturn while raising the bottling's price.

I have no interest in tracking down a bottle of any of these Acts, but I have enjoyed the batches I've sipped (two from Act 2, and one from Act 6). So I was excited about this Midwinter taste-off in midsummer. Here are the results from the Taste Off that inspired my Google searches:

A Park City Trio

High West A Midwinter Night's Dram Act 5, Scene 8 (2017) 49.3%abv	High West A Midwinter Night's Dram Act 7, Scene 1 (2019) 49.3%abv	High West A Midwinter Night's Dram Act 8, Scene 2 (2020) 49.3%abv
Everything in the nose revolves around a middle ground between sticky sugary fortified wine and bold rye: grape jam, blueberry syrup, rye bread, fennel seed, black licorice, marzipan, and brine.	The nose is very winey (Moscatel!). Roses, cherry syrup, and grape lollipops keep the fennel seed in the background.	Raw rye in the nose, and it isn't MGP sauce. At least it's less winey. Mothballs, tar, and black licorice up front, with marzipan, grape juice, and ethanol in the back.
It's a good thing that there's a lot of high-rye rye as it keeps the port casks' sweetness from taking over the palate. Fennel seeds and honey on one level, strawberry candy and grape candy down below.	There's a strong orange note in the sweet palate. Then sawdust and ginger. Tart apples and dash of salt. Not much in the way of that fennel seed note.	Again the wine is mellow in the palate. It's very peppery and spicy, full of loud oak and youthful rye. Tangy orange marmalade soaks into the toasted oak. As with 7:1, the sweetness isn't necessarily from the port.
It finishes with rye and sugar. Fennel seeds, lemon candy, and grape candy.	Very sweet on this finish. Orange candy, lemon candy, ginger candy, tart apples, and tannins.	The finish is so very, very sweet. Fennel seed and tangy citrus try to break through.
Final thoughts: The port casks start to tip the scales in the finish, and it's quite sweet overall, but never too much for my grumpy palate. In fact, it's the least sweet of the three. The ABV works perfectly on this one.	Final thoughts: This is a very different whiskey, and I don't think the port casks are driving all the sweetness. It's as if the spirit itself has been dosed with refined sugar. The orange note is the only thing keeping this from dipping into the 70s.	Final thoughts: I like this more brutal take on The Dram, until the finish strikes. The spirit's volume is cranked up, while the port is toned down, something I do support. But this is soooooo sugary. I'm struggling to find any MGP in here.
Rating: 84	Rating: 80	Rating: 82

WORDS WORDS WORDS

By the end of this lineup, I had my phone out, trying to discern what's going on with the changing spirit. As noted in the intro, Act 5 was the last one with the original recipe, without High West's spirit. Act 7, was the first act with no old Barton rye ingredients, and theoretically Act 8 was the same. My Kravy senses tell me that Act 8 had the most High West rye in it. Though 8 feels like the youngest of the three, I know my way around young MGP rye better than any other American spirit, and there's not much to be found in 8:2.

Five years ago, I'd already noticed how much sweeter Act 6 was than Act 2, and that was the Act that introduced the High West spirit to the recipe. The trend appears to have increased in Act 7 and 8, which leaves me uninterested in Acts 9, 10, and 11.

In fact, you won't find me supporting High West in general, now that David Perkins is no longer at the till, and yet another corporation is charging more for less. The market offers plenty of options for me to obtain a bottle of Indiana's rye if needed. You may want to explore those as well.

High West Rendezvous Rye Barrel Select for T5C, barrel 4469

And then there was the Rendezvous. Bottled for the militant mavens of T5C, this barrel selection has one of the highest ABVs of all Rendezvous releases. No quirky finishes to it, just full-powered Rye. It needs no further introduction.

Product: Rendezvous Rye
Producer: High West
Distilleries: Barton and MGP

Type: Blend of Straight Rye Whiskies
Region: Indiana (MGP) and Kentucky (Barton)

Mashbills: Barton - 80% rye 10% corn 10% malted barley
MGP - 95% rye 5% malted barley
Maturation: American white oak

Barrel #: 4469
Bottle #: 124

Alcohol by Volume: 63.5%
(Thank you to Secret Agent Man)

Remarkably, the nose needs no water. There's lots of chocolate and cookie—actually, it's Twix. I'm smelling Twix bars. Then toasted oak, saline, lemons and blossoms. Roasted almonds and berry candy. With 30+ minutes in the glass, it gains coffee and malt notes. The palate is big but not hot. Lots of oranges, peach cobbler and honey. RYE. Very little vanilla. It has a fresh herbal side, think mint, basil and thyme leaves. Tart lemons and a whiff of smoke. It sticks the landing with unending waves of rye, rye, rye, rye. Mint, saline, rye bread, sweet lemon and wood smoke. Enormous.

As handsome as the boys of T5C (*voice cracks* Hi guys!) are, this is the dark lord of Rendezvous Rye. Thunderous in style, but remarkably easy drinking for the abv, this barrel has more complexity than anything else I've had from High West and a finish that adheres to the senses for a very long time. There's not a single weakness to be found in this, one of my favorite ryes.

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - ???
Rating - 90

High West Double Rye Barrel Select for Cask Strength Society, barrel 7588

Let us transition from A Midwinter Night's Dram to a single barrel of Double Rye finished for 13 months in a former Midwinter Night's Dram barrel. High West's Barrel Select whiskies are fun on an intellectual level: Take a familiar High West product, finish it in a Wine, Scotch or former cask from the same distillery, then release it at a higher strength. And keep price the price close to that of the original whiskey. In this instance, High West tones down the potential fortified wine influence while also introducing a young rye to an older rye's barrel.

Product: Rendezvous Rye
Producer: High West
Distilleries: Barton and MGP (probably)

Type: Blend of Straight Rye Whiskies
Region: Indiana (MGP) and Kentucky (Barton)

Mashbills: 16 years, 53% rye 37% corn 10% malted barley (Barton) + 2 years, 95% rye 5% malted barley (MGP)
Maturation, part 1: Barton & MGP ryes in separate new white oak barrels
Maturation, part 2: 13-month marriage together in a Midwinter Night's Dram barrel

Barrel #: 7588
Exclusively for: Cask Strength Society

Alcohol by Volume: 49.9%
(Thanks again, Jack!)

There's a mild interplay between the spirit and the barrel, in the nose. On the Double Rye side there's pickle brine, ground mustard seed, anise, a vegetal note and rye white dog (rye dog?, while the MWND barrel brings in berry lollipops. At the intersection of the two is a glazed bacon note and a curious whiff of hot canola oil. The Double Rye rumble wins out in the palate, as it is mostly sharp zippy MGP stuff with a peep of blackberry jam. Mint, peppercorns, rock candy, heat and a hint of wood smoke. It finishes simply with lime candy, mint, wood smoke, black pepper and golden raisins.

The wisely subtle secondary maturation in a former MWND barrel does result in a small improvement over the old Double Rye recipe, which usually seemed younger than its younger ingredients and bereft of its older ryes. This barrel select is less sweet than MWND and doesn't hide its rye heart. It will appeal to those for whom wine cask whiskies are heresy. And it's better than any Double Rye batch I've had. Yet, like the Double Ryes I've had, it's sorely missing something older to bump up into Rendezvous territory.

Speaking of Rendezvous...

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - ???
Rating - 84

High West A Midwinter Night's Dram, Act 6 Scene 2

After my Rendezvous Rye and Elijah Craig posts, some readers assumed that I still drink American whiskey -- which is technically true since summer has arrived early -- and provided me with three samples of High West ryes. Since I'm about to flood everyone with more single malt scotch reviews, now would be a good time to pause and post some rye stuff.

The first sample, donated by Jack (thank you!), is a recent batch of Midwinter Night's Dram. As you see from the post's title, High West has now flown beyond Shakespeare's usual five-act structure into the undiscovered country of a sixth act. Who knows what will happen with their new ownership, other than the nuking of their ryes, so let's enjoy the MWNDs while they're still here.

If you're new to the game, A Midwinter Night's Dram is Rendezvous Rye finished in Port casks. I've heard that recent batches have been winier than the early ones, and there seems to be combination of the old recipe and new recipe involved (see below) now. In any case, here's 2018's Act 6, Scene 2.

Producer/Blender: High West
Ownership: Constellation Brands
Type: Blend of Straight Rye Whiskies
Region: Indiana (MGP), Kentucky (Barton), Utah (High West)

Mashbill: 95% rye, 5% barley malt from MGP; 
80% rye, 20% malted rye from High West Distillery; 
53% rye, 37% corn, 10% barley malt from Barton Distillery; 
80% rye, 10% corn, 10% barley malt from Barton Distillery

Primary Maturation: charred white oak barrels
Secondary Maturation: "port and french oak barrels"

Alcohol by Volume: 49.3%

Berry-loaded tawny port arrives first in the nose, with hints of mesquite and tar in the background. Then cherries, plum wine and roasted corn. Hints of ume, rye bread, fennel seeds and celery appear occasionally. With time, there's more rye and milk chocolate. Lots of sweet citrus, plum wine, caramel apples and cayenne pepper in the palate. It reads more like bourbon than rye. Well, it reads more like fortified wine than either of those. It gets sweeter and jammier with time, while also picking up some good tartness. The finish is sweet, plummy and minty. Sawdust, raspberry jam, black pepper and tart citrus.

While it's indeed winey or porty, this batch of Midwinter Night's Dram works as a dessert whisky. I mean, I shouldn't like as much as I do. There's no balance between the port, oak and whiskey (unlike the other two batches I've reviewed); and it's as sweet as a liqueur. But it's yummy. And the yummy factor is difficult to discount. So there it is. You may take the below rating with a spoonful of sugar.

Also, My Gourd, the price?!

Availability - Probably sold out
Pricing - recent batches are going for $90-$180, some comedians are charging $300
Rating - 84

Constellation Brands blows up High West Rendezvous Rye, so let's try the original stuff: 2012 versus 2016

High West Rendezvous Rye was a long time favorite in this house. If we couldn't get MGP Willett or MGP Smooth Ambler rye then I would buy a bottle of Rendezvous.

Note the past tense in that paragraph. The Rendezvous recipe has changed. What was once 16 year old 80/10/10 (Barton) + 6 year old 95/5 (MGP) rye, is (as of 2018) "A blend of older Straight Rye whiskeys ranging in age from 4 to 7 years", 95/5 from MGP and 80/20 rye/malted rye from High West itself. Now MGP is the older sibling. It is much much younger than the Barton rye was, and, yes, the oldest whiskies in the current batches are almost the same age as the youngest whiskies in the original batches. And per Winesearcher, Rendezvous 20% more expensive than it was in 2015.

Let's all chillfilter the bitterness out of our feelings about those facts for a moment. Inflation has gone up 7-8% since 2015, so the price was going to rise at least a little bit over the past four years. Though the ingredients changed, it was infeasible for High West to use 16 year old rye indefinitely. And at some point actual High West rye was going to have make an appearance in a bottle somewhere in the range.

Okay, now bring the bitter back. It takes some serious chutzpah to blow up a recipe so drastically while keeping the same name on the bottle. What do they think this is, Johnnie Walker Black? Why no "Son of Rendezvous"? Why no limited release "Last Rendezvous in Park City" to fluff the secondary marketeers? David Perkins was a stellar blender who created a successful brand via quality products. But I'm not motivated to drop $65 on 4 year old rye, especially when it's produced by the $40B market cap Constellation Brands rather than a family business.

In honor of the OG Rendezvous Rye, I'm going to compare my first saved Rendezvous sample with my last. 2012 versus 2016. One may imagine the recipe was already shifting far away from the Barton by 2016. None the less, I commence.

Product: Rendezvous Rye
Distillery: Barton and MGP distilleries

Producer: High West
Type: Blended Straight Rye Whiskeys
Region: Kentucky and Indiana

Age / Mashbill: 16 years, 80% rye 10% corn 10% malted barley (Barton) + 6 years, 95% rye 5% malted barley (MGP)

Maturation: charred white oak barrels

Alcohol by Volume: 46%
Batches: 12E03 (from 2012) and 16K29 (from 2016)

Noses:
Batch 12E03 - Pickles! Dried cherries, lemon peel and brown sugar. Not much vanilla. More of a toasted oak feel than charred oak. Cloves and dried grass. Okay, I'll say it: pickles in toffee pudding.
Batch 16K29 - Slightly flatter at first. Less fruit. The pickles have been replaced with mint leaves and earth. More toasted grains and toasted nuts. Cinnamon bread and halvah. Hints of rye bread, cherries and salty pork.

Palates:
Batch 12E03 - I'm happy to report one well-sealed sample bottle because this stuff is still brisk as hell after more than six years. Heat, mint and tart citrus at the start. Then apricots and cayenne pepper. Bit O' Pickle. Mild sweetness and vanilla. It gets increasingly spicy and fruity, then picks up a brothy salt note.
Batch 16K29 - Calmer and sweeter than the 2012, with a slight medicinal note. Luxardo cherries, mint and milk chocolate. Dustings of clove and cayenne. A mix of tart lemons and orange candy arise after a while.

Finishes:
Batch 12E03 - A straightforward mix of stone fruits, rye seeds, salt and pepper. Very long. It gets sweeter with time.
Batch 16K29 - Cherries, cloves, rye seeds and mint. Good 'n simple 'n sweet. Also has some length to it.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
Do I have to choose which one I like better? Even worse, do I have to assign them grades? This is my fault.

There's a definite through line from Willett to Smooth Ambler to the 2012 Rendezvous. Pickles, spices and fruits; that LDI spirit distilled in the mid-aughts. Great rye, all around. This old sample reminds me how much I enjoyed that bottle.

The 2016 batch held up better than I'd expected. It's sweeter and more immediate than the 2012, and finishes very well, which makes it a pleasure to drink. It's short on fruit which keeps it from meeting its elder head-to-head. It does make a great manhattan, when required, though.

I've had to bury Willett's and Smooth Ambler's single barrel MGP ryes on this blog. Now I bury the original batches of Rendezvous Rye.

Good night, sweet pickles. May flights of cowboy angels sing thee to thy sleep.

Batch 12E03
Rating - 88

Batch 16K29
Rating - 86

Bourbon and Rye Day Friday: Two scenes from High West's A Midwinter Night's Dram

Corporations and independent distilleries

Our favorite indie distilleries are getting bought up, one by one. And I don't expect it to end any time soon. In some cases, the distillery had already proven to make a high quality product (see: Westland), thus a future was clear and the purchase had promise. In other cases, the distillery had created overpriced low quality product (see: Hudson Whiskey), and, well, I don't know why William Grant bought them.

In yet other cases, the wisdom behind the purchase is questionable because the distillery had not yet proven to distill a product of quality but instead gained notoriety from good blending of great sourced whiskies. For instance, High West. This is not meant as a poke at the Perkinses. There hasn't been enough time for their own whiskey to come to the market. But that's not their problem now, and they made out with a nine figure sale.

My question to Constellation Brands is...why buy them now? High West's great success was from blending together purchased barrels to create Rendezvous Rye, Bourye, and their brethren. How do you scale that up? Is there some sort of scheme to push ahead in line to grab more MGP distillate? How do you plan on making teenage Barton rye appear upon demand? Or are you banking on as-of-yet unproven products?

I've been thinking about this a lot recently, because it'll probably be only a few months before Smooth Ambler is scooped up too [UPDATE: Holy crap.] . And then another half dozen companies that did well thanks to MGP distillate. Willett, perhaps?

Awkward segue

Anyway, this has (hopefully) little to do with today's whiskey review. Rendezvous Rye is a favorite in my house, and I've enjoyed seeing High West tinker with their formula by doing extra maturations for private barrels. A Midwinter Night's Dram takes this to a more committed direction as the producers create a widely(-ish) distributed Rendezvous varietal by sticking it in port barrels and French oak barrels for an unspecified amount of time. Is it a short finish or an extended secondary maturation? I don't know.

So there's my intro, or my two intros. And sure enough I have tried two editions (or "scenes") of A Midwinter Night's Dram. Thank you to WhiskyWithRyan and Florin (a prince) for these opportunities.

The Stats

Product: A Midwinter's Night's Dram
Distillery: Barton/Tom Moore and MGP distilleries

Producer: High West
Ownership: Constellation Brands
Type: Blend of Straight Rye Whiskies
Region: Utah (High West), Indiana (MGP), Barton (Kentucky)

Age / Mashbill: 16 years, 80% rye 10% corn 10% malted barley (Barton) + 6 years, 95% rye 5% malted barley (MGP) -- more of the latter than the former in the mix

Primary Maturation: charred white oak barrels
Secondary Maturation: "port and french oak barrels"

Alcohol by Volume: 49.3%

ACT 2.6, SCENE 1120

I recently met with a pair of local whiskey geeks to do some public drinking. One of these gentlemen, Ryan, brought his bottle of AMND. Because I took my notes in outside my usual hermetically sealed tasting location, and spent much of the time in conversation, I'm going to give this a grade range rather than a specific score.

You can see the rosy brown color in the accompanying photo. The nose has a vanilla + smoked toffee shell with a lemon + cocoa interior.  The port is subtle in the palate, at first. A few scattered red berries. Peppery rye, dark chocolate and mint. Then the port influence expands with time as a nice tart berry fruitiness moves to the fore. The finish brings the nose and palate together. Vanilla, mint, tart raspberries, lemon candy and black licorice.

I wasn't blown away by the whiskey's nose, but the finish was so layered and lovely that I'll happily ignore the weak link. I'd expected this to be a port-soaked soaked thing, but instead the elements held a good balance most of the time. Good stuff.

RATING RANGE: 86-89 (B/B+), for Act 2.6, Scene 1120 only

ACT 2.9, SCENE 1322

This second scene/batch's nice sized sample comes to Diving for Pearls courtesy of Florin. I've been looking forward to trying it for, what, two years? Now's a good time.

Since I am tasting this in my hermit zone, it will get scientifically precise score, rounding up to the nearest ten-thousandth.

The nose is the opposite of Corti Brothers Exquisite Whiskey's schnozzola. One can actually smell the whisky part. But there are plenty of blackberries and blackberry jam. Also black pepper, wood smoke and orange peel. Burnt grain and soil. A little bit of milk chocolate in there, and a small flower blossom note. Okay, more chocolate's coming; it's sort of hot fudgy.

The palate also has plenty of well-aged, but still peppery, rye. There are some tart berries, sour limes and a zippy bitterness. I'd expected chocolate, but found toffee instead. Also some fizzy raspberry schweppes. Fresh ginger and cayenne pepper. Ah, bitter cocoa. Hints of clove, cinnamon and nutmeg. Grape juice tries to poke out but the spicy rye hammers it down.

The zippy bitterness runs into the finish, as does the pepper, nutmeg and clove. It has weird glue and notebook paper notes at first, but those vanish with later sips. There's some grapey sweetness, toasted marshmallows, and wood smoke, but a youthful rye rumble continues underneath.

Perhaps the port is slightly louder in this scene, but a desserty Rendezvous Rye is an acceptable Rendezvous Rye to me. I liked this batch better than my high strength Barrel Select bottle I reviewed in October, and it stands up pretty well to the regular Rendezvous. Which is all good news. I hope High West keeps produces subsequent scenes.

A Midwinter Night's Dram distinguishes itself as a different product than the RR, is more expensive to produce and is legitimately scarcer. The question is, how much of a premium would one be willing to pay for it? If I find it for $80 or less, then I'll go for it. But I can't say its quality calls for most of the prices I'm seeing online. It's very good American whiskey, but I'm not paying three figures for very good American whiskey.

Availability - A few dozen specialty retailers in the US
Pricing - $70-$140, a few idiots are charging $200+
Rating - 87 (for Act 2.9, Scene 1322 only)

Bourbon and Rye Day Friday: High West Rendezvous Rye, Vine & Table Barrel Select (barrel 957)

Something else was on my calendar for today's review, but circumstances call for this whiskey. If you hadn't heard, High West was purchased by Constellation Brands for $160 million of money.  The Perkinseseses are staying onboard, which is good.  The funny(?) thing is that High West made hay due to their barrel picking and blending. Meanwhile, distilling is a very different business and science. No one really knows how their High West's aged spirit will fare. Like Willett, they'll have to segue from high-quality products sourced from long-running distilleries to their own distillate. And that's at least one strike against them. I am rooting for them though. It takes guts to open a whiskey business in Utah.....and then succeed. And I do love me some Rendezvous Rye.

Today's bottle isn't the usual Rendezvous. High West has (or had, depending on Constellation) a Barrel Select program, wherein retailers could get an exclusive barrel of Rendezvous or Double Rye with extra maturation. In this instance, High West poured the blended contents of regular Rendezvous -- 6yo MGP rye + 16yo Barton rye -- into an ex-bourbon (American Prairie?) barrel and let it age for another two-and-a-half years before bottling at barrel strength. Thus it's a different whiskey than Rendezvous and, as to be expected, more expensive. Ignoring the older component, consider that this Barrel Select is mostly 8 year old MGP stuff, so $70 is a reasonable price in this market.

Since High West is in the news and I attended Vine & Table's Expo this past weekend, I figured it's time to taste this stuff officially.

Product: Rendezvous Rye
Producer: High West
Distilleries: Barton and MGP

Type: Blend of Straight Rye Whisky
Region: Utah (High West), Indiana (MGP), Barton (Kentucky)

Mashbills: Barton - 80% rye 10% corn 10% malted barley
MGP - 95% rye 5% malted barley
Maturation, part 1: Barton 16yo and MGP 6yo, separately, in new white oak barrels
Maturation, part 2: 2.5 year marriage together in an ex-bourbon barrel

Barrel #: 957
Bottle #: 40

Alcohol by Volume: 53%
(notes taken from my bottle's midpoint)

NEAT:
The nose starts off with a surprising dried fruit note; think apricots, pineapple and golden raisins. Plenty of creamy vanilla notes. No pickle juice (for those who fear it). Some fun notes of root beer and hazelnut liqueur poke out here and there. Eventually it develops a big Rolos candy note that nearly takes over. A lot of ethyl heat blocks the palate for the first couple of sips. But then the aggressive high-rye spices rush in, followed by an old bourbon character (lots of corn and vanilla). Its sweetness is of the brown sugar and maraschino cherry sort. Some black cherry soda. With time the spices shift towards jalapeño pepper. It also picks up some plain oak notes as well. At first the finish is all maraschino cherries on vanilla ice cream. Then there's plain sweet & heat, along with dried fruit. After later sips, it trends towards bitter oak and pencil shavings.

WITH WATER (~40%abv)
The nose is all dried fruit at first. Then vanilla takes over, followed by smaller notes of root beer, peanut dust, and orange oil. Something darker and grungier lurks in the background. The palate gets saltier. Plenty of zing remains, though it's more pepper than ethyl. Fruit punch. Kind of a peppier version of Canadian rye. The finish is sweet and tannic, with notes of vanilla and bananas.

WORDS WORDS WORDS:
I was actually prepared to pan this rye. Upon opening the bottle, Kristen and I found it too hot to drink. Even when reduced to 43%abv, the ethyl stayed put. Thus I had planned to reduce it to 40%abv to see if I could break through the heat.  But now that the bottle is at its halfway point, the whiskey has calmed down considerably, and thankfully, so I could take proper notes. Now I prefer it neat!

With the joyous nose as its strong point and the finish its weakest, this Barrel Select proves to be unique and different than the regular Rendezvous. If it were priced above $100 like most 8yo MGP ryes, I'd say skip it. But if you're already out $60+ for the regular Rendezvous, this is worthwhile at $70, especially if you favor dried fruit over MGP's pickle juice.

Availability - Vine & Table only
Pricing - $69.99
Rating - 85 (when neat)

Batch Match Up: High West Double Rye versus High West Double Rye

No, this is not an April Fool's joke.

One of the things I wanted to start doing on this site this year was comparisons between whiskies bottled under the same name.  I'll compare batches, barrels, bottling years, ABV versions, ownership changes, and shifts in mashbills or oak.  This is partially to demonstrate that the whisk(e)y websites and books which exist for the sole purpose of being buying guides are not entirely reliable.  But these matchups' main purpose relates to my intent for all of my spirits posts, and that is to document my personal experience and share my findings with you.  Our palates change, as does the liquid.

I'll be sprinkling these posts around, mostly when I have the samples in hand.  Last week, I really enjoyed doing the Old Taylor lineup because the whiskey was so damn good.  This week, I'll do two slightly more relevant posts.  Today, it's High West Double Rye.

Two months ago, I reviewed my bottle of Double Rye and found the whiskey to be surprisingly uninspiring.  I'm a big fan of High West's Rendezvous Rye, but its little cousin was a letdown.  Immediately following my post, reader Florin exclaimed, "WTF?! GTFO."  He claimed his Double Rye experience did not match mine, saying his open bottle of the Double was good.  And he generously supplied a sample.

The usual rundown:
Product: Double Rye
Producer: High West
Distillery: Barton/Tom Moore and LDI distilleries

Type: Straight Rye Whisky
Region: Utah (High West), Indiana (LDI), Kentucky (Barton)

Age / Mashbill: 16 years, 53% rye 37% corn 10% malted barley (Barton) + 2 years, 95% rye 5% malted barley (LDI)

Maturation: charred white oak barrels

Alcohol by Volume: 46%

High West is great when it comes to a batch match up, since their labels actually list batch numbers.  And their batch numbers are usually decipherable.  In this case, they are as follows:

My bottle -- Batch 13C07 (likely March 7, 2013), bottle 2309, purchased at Costco,
Florin's bottle -- Batch 12J12 (likely October 12, 2012), bottle 782, purchased at DrinkupNY or The Party Source

Line 'em up.

BATCH 12J12, bottle 782 (Florin's)
Actual rye seeds in the nose; fennel seeds, too.  Pickle juice, black pepper, and something almost rosemary but not quite.  It gets sugarier with time: brown sugar, simple syrup, and fresh baked carrot cake.  The palate is dry and herbal, like a mellow Willett LDI rye.  Salt and savory, very little sweetness at first.  Rye bread toast with salted butter.  A graceful floral note develops with time.  That extra air also brings a sweet(er) -> herbal -> spicy progression.  Salt and pepper in the finish.  Green and pink peppercorns.  Not particularly lengthy, though it develops some nice bitterness, over time.

BATCH 13C07, bottle 2309 (Mine, from Costco)
The nose starts with chlorine, vodka, cherry juice, and hints of mint and pepper.  Then brown sugar, bubble gum ice cream, cinnamon candy, and orange candy.  Rubbing alcohol.  With some air, the whiskey shows some maple syrup and a lot of new oak.  The mild sweet-ish palate is oddly corny.  Vanilla from the barrel char and then a hit of bitter oak.  It's very green, in both herbs and grains.  Some peppery spice and artificial mint flavoring.  Cinnamon, sugar, and the fake mint thing make up most of the finish.  A slight rye zip grows with time.

Winner:
Nose: 12J12 by a lot
Palate: 12J12
Finish: 13C07 slightly
Overall: 12J12

These don't even seem like the same whiskey.  My batch tastes like a cheap young hi-rye bourbon.  Florin's batch tastes like a young but approachable LDI rye.  When I gave my batch of Double Rye its score last time, I was worried that it was too low.  But now I'm going to dock it a few more points.  It's a C grade whiskey.  Florin's is more like a B-/B.

I've floated the theory that Costco was given a crummy batch not on accident.  High West could save their best stuff for well-respected specialty liquor retailers that buy at a higher price (than a Costco bulk purchase) then turn around and sell the product to bigger spenders and/or pickier whiskey folk.  Though I can't really prove this, my bottle from the Costco batch was capital-L Lacking, while Florin's was demonstrably better.

Another more dispiriting possibility is that High West is running short on the 16-year-old Barton stock thus its almost total absence in the 2013 batch.  If you've had a batch more recent than mine please share your experience.

One final thought on price.  Though Rendezvous is still the better rye, if you can find a good batch (maybe an older batch) of Double Rye at $30, I'd say it's a good deal.  But, unless you know someone who liked his or her bottle of 2013 Double Rye, I can't even recommend buying the Costco batch at $27.99.

DOUBLE RYE
Availability - Most liquor specialists

Pricing - $30-$40

BATCH 12J12

Rating - 83

BATCH 13C07

Rating - 76

High West Rye Taste Off! Rendezvous Rye versus Double Rye

And now back to your regularly scheduled whisk(e)y reviews...

This week I'm going to rye it up a little bit.  All of these ryes should be easily available, despite some retailer outcries of scarcity.  Their prices can range between $20 and $50, so none of them should bust a budget too badly.  My palate prefers rye over bourbon probably 80% of the time, but I know that other palates feel otherwise, so I'll try to remember that in my reviews and ratings.

Today it's a Taste Off!

HIGH WEST RENDEZVOUS RYE

vs.

HIGH WEST DOUBLE RYE

I reviewed Rendezvous Rye last year (last February actually) from my own bottle and was very pleased by it.  Before that one was emptied, I stashed away a Taste Off Only sample for further studies like this one.

Then in July, while doing my usual snooping around Costco's liquor shelves, I found to my great surprise bottles of Double Rye selling at an excellent price.  So I availed myself of one.  In November, I stashed away a Taste Off Only sample of this one too.  Like the Rendezvous, the sample comes from mid-bottle.

To be clear, High West Distillery did not distill these ryes.  These are created from barrels David Perkins purchased as his distillery was being built.  Selling these bottles, Perkins picks up some revenue to help finance his company's distilling future.  Right now their stills are up and running.  High West has released some white whiskies, perhaps we'll see some aged ones before too long.  Here's the makeup of today's two ryes:

Rendezvous Rye -- 16yo (80% rye mashbill) Barton Distillery + 6yo (95% rye mashbill) LDI

Double Rye -- 16yo (53% rye mashbill) Barton Distillery + 2yo (95% rye mashbill) LDI

So technically Rendezvous is the older brother with a higher rye content.  Let's see how this turns out.

---

RENDEZVOUS RYE

Product: Rendezvous Rye
Distillery: Barton/Tom Moore and LDI distilleries

Producer: High West
Type: Straight Rye Whisky
Region: Utah (High West), Indiana (LDI), Barton (Kentucky)

Age / Mashbill: 16 years, 80% rye 10% corn 10% malted barley (Barton) + 6 years, 95% rye 5% malted barley (LDI)

Maturation: charred white oak barrels
Batch: 12E03
Bottle: 4024

Alcohol by Volume: 46%
(many thanks to LA Whisk(e)y Society for the distillery and mashbill data)

NEAT

The color is a medium gold, though slightly darker than the Double.  Four Ps on the nose: Pears, (nail) Polish, (black) Pepper, and Pickle brine.  Then fresh cut wood, vanilla beans, coriander, and heated oregano.  The palate has less of the Ps, but is instead very rich and sugary.  Brown sugar, rum, vanilla, and lots of caramel.  Some pipe tobacco as well, along with a little salt and a mild green leafy note.  It's warm in a pepper sauce sort of fashion.  It finishes sweetly too, and much bigger than Double's finale.  Rum and tobacco.  Baking spices, cream, and mild cheese, along with that peppery heat.

WITH WATER

Some tropical fruit notes arise in the nose.  The water also brings out more charred oak weight, more sawdust, and more sugars.  A curious note of smoked celery too.  The palate gets drier and blander.  Some toasted grains, white and black pepper, and green leafy veg are up front.  Sweet rum and caramel in the rear.  Pepper in the finish, some more oaky residue, caramel, and a hint of raisins.

I really recommend this one neat.  You can add water if you wish, but I think it kills the best parts of the Rendezvous.  I'm glad Perkins released it at 46% ABV.

---

DOUBLE RYE

Product: Double Rye
Distillery: Barton/Tom Moore and LDI distilleries

Producer: High West
Type: Straight Rye Whisky
Region: Utah (High West), Indiana (LDI), Barton (Kentucky)

Age / Mashbill: 16 years, 53% rye 37% corn 10% malted barley (Barton) + 2 years, 95% rye 5% malted barley (LDI)

Maturation: charred white oak barrels
Batch: 13C07
Bottle: 2309

Alcohol by Volume: 46%
(thanks again to LA Whisk(e)y Society for the distillery and mashbill data)

NEAT

Gold again, color-wise.  On the nose, it has a similar Four P (pears, polish, pepper, and pickle) pop but it's infused inside vodka.  Good rye vodka, but vodka nonetheless.  Then there's applesauce, tapioca pudding, mango, and corn whiskey.  These latter notes are nice, but sometimes the new make note overwhelms the rest.  There are more fruits in the palate, but they're very brief.  Some citrus, some tropical.  Makes me wish they'd develop more.  Some earthy molasses.  It's sharp on the tongue in a youthful way.  The fruits carryover into the finish, briefer, brighter, and lighter.  But I'm still getting a lot of sharp vodka stuff.

WITH WATER

Oak recedes almost entirely on the nose, leaving behind, well, rye vodka again.  Some vanilla and baking spice from time to time.  The palate is nice and sweet.  Edges dulled.  Sugary baked pears, cinnamon, mild cheese, and fresh grass.  The finish is short, sweet, and spicy.

Water plays better with the palate than the nose but, overall, a few drops won't hurt it.

---

I was surprised by the significant difference between the two: much more age and richness in the Rendezvous, and a hell of a lot more spirit in the Double.  In fact, it felt like they went very easy on the old stuff in the Double.  Apologies for my repeated use of the word "sharp" but that's the one word that kept running through my mind every time I had a pour from the Double bottle.

There are some folks out there who like the Double Rye more.  And I'm wondering if there might be some batch variation involved here.  A question arises: If you're a smaller whisky producer sending an entire batch to be sold at Costco, are you giving them a great batch or a lesser batch?  Would you save your best stuff for well-respected specialty liquor retailers that may buy at a higher price then turn around and sell your product to bigger spenders?  Or do you send a great batch to a bulk buyer like Costco, sacrificing price for winning over a different demographic?

Okay, maybe that was three questions.  Because my bottle of Double Rye was decent but not at all impressive, I've been wondering if a lower quality batch was sent to Costco (who can underbid but sell in bulk).  At $27.99, it was a good deal, but I haven't seen the return of a single High West product to Costco since then.

Now back to the Rendezvous, you may notice my notes vary a little bit from last year's review.  That may be due to the sample bottle decanting or perhaps my senses read it a little differently.  Either way, I still recommend it just as highly.  I will caution that there may be some batch variation in this rye as well, but I haven't had a less than good experience with the Rendezvous yet.

A final note on pricing.  Rendezvous used to be easily available at $45 around here.  Recently, I've noticed the price heading towards $50-$55.  As good as it is, I don't think I'd buy it at $55 or higher.  Double Rye can still be found in the low $30s.  I hope it doesn't go up into the $40s because I don't think it can compete at that price level.

RENDEZVOUS RYE
Availability - Most liquor specialists

Pricing - $45-$60

Rating - 88 (but neat only!)

DOUBLE RYE
Availability - Most liquor specialists

Pricing - $30-$40

Rating - 79

NOT Single Malt Report: High West Rendezvous Rye

You can count me as one more fan of David Perkins and the High West Distillery team.  They keep cranking out creative (and tasty!) whiskey products -- pulled together from juice they've bought from other distilleries -- as they await the results of their own very young Utah whiskey, currently slumbering in new American oak.  Here are some of their releases:

Bourye -- a mix of 10yr Four Roses bourbon, 12yr LDI rye (95% rye mashbill), and 16yr Barton Distillery rye.  This sold like, well, whiskey.  So now it's gone, but was soon replaced with...
Son of Bourye -- 5yr Four Roses bourbon and 3yr LDI rye (95% rye mashbill)
Campfire -- Four Roses bourbon + LDI rye (95% rye mashbill) + a peated Scottish blended malt
American Prairie Reserve -- 10yr Four Roses bourbon + 6yr LDI bourbon
Double Rye -- 16yr (53% mashbill) Barton Distillery rye + 2yr (95% mashbill) LDI rye.
And...

Product: Rendezvous Rye
Distillery: Barton/Tom Moore and LDI distilleries

Producer: High West
Type: Straight Rye Whisky
Region: Utah (High West), Indiana (LDI), Barton (Kentucky)

Age / Mashbill: 16 years, 80% rye 10% corn 10% malted barley (Barton) + 6 years, 95% rye 5% malted barley (LDI)

Maturation: charred white oak barrels

Alcohol by Volume: 46%
(many thanks to LA Whisk(e)y Society for the distillery and mashbill data)

How can one not love these combos?!  I'm pretty much a whisk(e)y purist, but these blends are crazy and brilliant.  Any great chef or bartender will divulge that one of the keys to a great dish or cocktail is the use of the highest quality ingredients.  High West has taken that to heart.  I'm coo-coo for LDI rye (if you haven't gathered that yet), thus David Perkins has my full attention.

I had my eye on Rendezvous first.  About to pull the trigger on it, I asked K&L's David Driscoll: "What rye would you recommend to a Willett fan?"  Without a pause, he replied, "High West's Rendezvous."  So I bought it and now it's almost gone.  But before my bottle goes empty, I must do an official tasting:

NEAT:
The color is all maple syrup.  The nose holds lots of good oak elements, especially vanillins, leather, and a bundle of tropical fruit.  There's also a strong note of pencil shavings that I've found in toasted French oak-matured whisky.  Something savory in there too...can we smell "savory"?  Finally, there's a big wallop of rye seeds.  Those rye seeds hang around in the palate, joined by cinnamon, hay, and a marshmallowy sweetness.  The LDI rye zing is present but restrained by the older Barton whiskey.  A hint of black cherry.  More than a hint of black pepper.  Here comes the spice kick in the very lengthy finish.  Candied vanilla pods meet caramel corn, along with a distant vegetal note from the spirit.

Adding water makes it creamier, and brings out some bubblegum and fresh cherry notes.  The palate is softer but still finishes strong.

Even The Wife enjoys this one.  But then again, she seems to be smitten with LDI rye too.

This is politer than the barrel-strength Willetts, but still a muscular whiskey.  I recommend this to folks who like high rye mashbills and also to those of us who'd like to experience a little older rye without handing out the $200+ which will undoubtedly be the pricing on 16-year ryes in the near future.  For you cocktail fans, this makes for a brisk lively Sazerac, though it works best all alone in the glass.

Now, what High West shall I buy next......?

Availability - Many liquor specialists

Pricing - $48-$55

Rating - 88