Kaiyō The Sheri, First Edition

No, Kaiyō did not distill any of this week's whiskies. Kaiyō is a négociant crossed with an NDP, wrapped in a shell corporation. If you don't believe me, please read this very thorough, and kind of bananas, post at Nomunication.jp. (Proper respect to Richard on that one.)

What I can say this week's three Kaiyō whiskies is that they're probably Japanese single malt that has been teaspooned with another (Japanese?) single malt. They can't call them a single malt because of that silly teaspoon and they can't call it Japanese because it was aged on the ocean part-time. But the bottle's label has kanji on it and a Keeper of the Kiddish Quaich is in charge of blending the stuff.

Are you still with me? If so, you're not drinking enough.

Brand: Kaiyō
Ownership: hopefully the IRS knows
Type: Vatted, or Blended, Malt
Country: Japan
Maturation: Oloroso + PX + Mizunara Casks
Age: NAS
Bottled: 2019
Exclusive to: not Japan
Alcohol by Volume: 46%
(from a bottle split)

NOTES

The nose starts with a combo of anise, oranges, grape juice and flower kiss candy. And it......works. It expands with time, picking up marzipan, cherry lollies, dried cranberries and Crème de cassis.

A creamy mouthfeel brings cherry cola, tart oranges and a hint of rosy florals in the palate. Hints of oak spice and semisweet chocolate stay in the background.

It finishes with tart and tangy oranges, oak spice and a touch of coffee.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Much to my surprise this turned out to be a very drinkable thing, and never gets too sweet. In fact, it's comparable in quality to many ≤12yo heavily sherried scotches. I doubt you'll find much from the mizunara casks since they're usually subtler than sherry-seasoned casks, and Kaiyō had a heavy hand on the sherry here, possibly to make sure the whisky was true to its name. I'd buy a bottle were it half its price.

Availability - Still around in the US
Pricing - $120-$140
Rating - 84

Frysk Hynder 4 year old 2017 Dutch Single Malt, cask 255B

Located in Friesland, Netherlands, Us Heit Distillery produces a flock of liqueurs and its own single malt, Frysk Hynder. They've released scores, if not hundreds, of single casks, the majority of which have been reduced to 40%abv. Many of the casks have been seasoned with "Red Wine", with others having received the sherry or cognac treatment. Today's Frysk Hynder spent its time in one of those "red wine" casks, and was bottled one month before its fifth birthday.

Distillery: Us Heit Distillery
Ownership: the van der Linde family

Brand: Frysk Hynder

Region: Friesland, Netherlands

Age: 4 years old (3 April 2017 - 3 March 2022)
Maturation: Red wine

Cask #: 255B

Outturn: ???

Alcohol by Volume: 40%

(sample pilfered at an event)

NOTES

On the nose I'm finding raspberries, orange oil, white bread, lots of eggy sulfur, even more Velveeta slices, and I don't want to smell it anymore.

Prunes, metal and tissues arrive first in the palate, followed by corn syrup, ginger ale and burnt saltines.

If finishes burnt and bitter, but brief.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

This whisky was wrong on many levels. I snooped around to find out if any of their other whiskies had issues, and quickly discovered that the Frysk Hynder brand gets an F as its Whiskybase Ranking. To be fair, those rankings go down to G (why?). Anyway, I'm assuming the whisky gets bottled so young because the casks prove fatal beyond five years, which may be same the reason for the maximum dilution. The palate is very strange and unpleasant though not horrifying, but the nose is nearly nauseating. I will not apologize for the alliteration. This is the second worst whisky I've had this year.

Availability - ???
Pricing - ???
Rating - 61

Ninety 20 year old Canadian Rye Whisky

Originally named Sunnyvale Distillery, Highwood Distillery was built in High River, Alberta, 37 years ago. In 2005, the distillery's owners bought Potter's Distillers, an NDP/broker with a good stash of its own Canadian casks. Using both sources, Highwood Distillers currently bottles a wide range of whiskies and flavored-whiskies, two of which tilt the Canadian scales at 45%abv, a 5 year old rye and a 20 year old rye, both of the Ninety (as in proof) brand. I have a 2oz sample of that 20 year old rye right here...

Company: Highwood Distillers

Brand: Ninety

Distillery: Highwood Distillery (and perhaps others)
Region: Alberta, Canada (and perhaps others)
Type: Rye
Age: at least 20 years
Maturation: Bourbon barrels for the first two decades, then six months in sherry casks
Alcohol by Volume: 45%
Chillfiltered? Probably
e150a? Probably

(from a bottle split)

NOTES

The nose begins lightly fruity and floral. Apples and peaches. Wheated bourbon and Nillas. It gets quirkier with time, picking up notes of Dove soap, Loch Lomond-type funk and shoe polish.

The palate is very very sweet. Root beer, vanilla and loads of caramel blanket the foreground. Mocha, neutral grain spirit and a hint of bitterness lie below.

Caramel, mint extract and mocha fill the cloying finish.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

The pleasures of Canadian whiskies largely escape me. Perhaps Ninety would fare better next to Canadian Club's Rye, but Lot No. 40 whups it royally in a side-by-side. The enjoyable nose does rescue Ninety's score from the D-range. But this really seems like caramel-flavored whisky, the resulting palate made for sweeter teeth than mine. Not a great week for international whiskies so far...

Availability - Canadiana
Pricing - 60-70USD(?)
Rating - 74

Hammer Head 30 year old 1989 Czech Single Malt, cask 378

Obligatory

When I reviewed the 20yo nine years ago, I thought Hammer Head single malt was a once-in-a-lifetime little tchotchke. Then came a 23 year old, a 25 year old, two 28 year olds, and now a 30 year old that costs $500.

For those who haven't heard the tale, here's the recap: on the brink of the Velvet Revolution the Czechoslovakian communist government-run Prádlo distillery cranked out some batches of single malt spirit made from local barley. Once bottled, two decades later, the whisky was named after the Hammer Head mill that had ground up the barley back in 1989.

Clearly it wasn't just a couple casks. The first release alone had an outturn of 80,000 bottles. And now, 30 years on, there have been a few single casks. All but two of the releases have been at strengths between 40.7% and 43.7%abv, yet today's 30yo weighs in at 51.2%abv. It's not chillfiltered, but I see no claims about its coloration. I don't know what to expect here, but I'm happy to try 30 year old Czech whisky any day!

Distillery: Prádlo Distillery
Ownership: STOCK Plzeň-Božkov s.r.o.

Brand: Hammer Head

Region: Prádlo, Czech Republic

Age: 30 years old (1989-2020)
Maturation: Czech oak casks

Cask #: 378

Outturn: 300 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 51.2%

(from a bottle split)

NEAT

At first there's a unique mix of hazelnuts, tobacco and steel on the nose. A little bit of ocean brine drifts through the background, golden raisins and orange liqueur fill the midground. The palate is intensely woody, or should I say woodsy. It's more forest-like than generic oak. The bitterness is almost Cynar-like, with heaps of black pepper and smoked paprika floating on top. It finishes a bit tougher, with bark, ash and dry soil

DILUTED to ~46%abv, or ¾ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

The nose has shifted a bit. It's more floral, and some grape juice shows up. Otherwise it's all barrel char and peanuts. Yeeeeeesh, the palate. It's all woody bitterness. The finish feels almost unsafe with its heavy acridity and bitterness.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

The whisky's nose is very sniffable, when neat. The palate is a quirky curio, when neat. Its finish doesn't terrify, when neat. But it's nigh undrinkable when diluted. If this was one of their honey casks, then I sincerely hope there won't be a 35 year old Hammer Head. It was a cool brand, but this stuff is all oak juice. If casks remain, perhaps they can be blended with the current Prádlo malt for a fun hand-in-hand communism + capitalism vatting. I'm going to be kind with the score here, but I'd be okay with never again trying another pour of 1989 Hammer Head.

Availability - In the US of A, of all places
Pricing - $500(!)
Rating - 77 (when neat, 64 when diluted)

Springbank 14 year old 2007 Cadenhead

I'm going to keep the kibitzing to a minimum here because I just want to get to the notes for this whisky, a teenage bourbon barrel Springbank bottled by Cadenhead just a few months ago. It is good.

Because

Distillery: Springbank

Brand: Springbank

Region: Campbeltown

"Independent" bottler: Cadenhead

Age: 14 years (Late 2007 - Summer 2022)

Maturation: bourbon barrel

Outturn: 198 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 54.9%

(from a bottle split)

NOTES

Yes. Fruit. Nose. Mangoes, dried apricots, citrons, grapefruits. Around the fruits swirl all sorts of lovely things like sage, toasted seaweed, rope, saline and Juicy Fruit gum.

At first, the palate is all guava juice. In-season black plums, apricot jam, lemon candy and moss arrive next. It gets earthier with time, but always switches back to guava and plums. It makes for terrifyingly easy drinking at this strength. So, no, no dilution here.

The finish glows with Lotte's ume (plum) gum, apricots (dried and fresh), and bright sweet citrus. Then peaches and smoked sea salt.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

I'm not going to call this a contemporary classic because I had only a small sample of the whisky, but if I had a bottle......if I had a bottle. Though this is my favorite official or semi-official Springbank since the 16 year old Local Barley, it's a different experience than anything else they've released recently. It's like a fruity 20-30 year old Speyside, like Glenburgie or Longmorn, has merged with an old peated malt whose phenolics have long since drifted into the dunnage, leaving behind quiet impressions of youth. That's all I'm asking for in a whisky really.

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - maybe £85 upon release
Rating - 91

Kilkerran 11 year old 2020 Cadenhead

Next up in this terrifyingly-recent-bottling series is an 11 year old Kilkerran, released by Cadenhead a couple months ago. The folks in charge of J&A Mitchell's production have a gem in Glengyle (Kilkerran's distillery), often making single malt that tops Springbank at a young age. Kilkerran's Work in Progress series remains my favorite window into the life of a developing single malt style/brand/whisky. The early bourbon cask WIPs were terrific, while the older sherry cask WIPs were possibly better.

So I know that Glengyle can deliver after 6 to 11 maturation years......when in small batches. The more recent single cask sherry syrup coming from the distillery has been less convincing. Today's single bourbon barrel comes from Cadenhead, so it's kinda technically an official bottling since Cadenhead, Kilkerran and Glengyle distillery are all owned by the same folks.

Distillery: Glengyle

Owner: Mitchell's Glengyle Limited

Brand: Kilkerran

Region: Campbeltown

"Independent" bottler: Cadenhead

Age: 11 years (Late 2010 - Summer 2022)

Maturation: bourbon barrel

Outturn: 210 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 57.2%

(from a bottle split)

NEAT

Yeast and soda bread lead the nose, with white peaches and cigarette ash following. Little bits of blossoms, butterscotch and charred marshmallows appear after some time. I find a lot of wood smoke and new make in the early palate. Lots of limes up top, a few yuzus and yellow peaches beneath. Black pepper, sweet limes and leafy smoky finish it off.

DILUTED to ~46%abv, or 1½ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

Reminiscent of Westland Distillery's peaty wort, the nose is full of barley, yeast and oats, with florals in the background, occasional notes of vanilla cookies and almond cookies around the edges. The palate is raw and very sweet. Simple peatiness in the foreground; pencil graphite in the middle; vanilla, cardboard and cannabis hints in the back. The nondescript finish is tangy, sweet and kind of bitter.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

This is almost new make; good new make, but still the clear stuff. I always appreciate when Cadenhead goes gentle on the oak, but I wonder why this spirit wasn't kept in the barrel for several years more. It doesn't hold together well once diluted, so sipping it neatly is recommended. As is often the case with these youngsters, the nose wins the day.

Availability - perhaps at the remaining Cadenhead shops?
Pricing - ???
Rating - 83 (neat only; at least a 5-point drop when diluted)

Longrow 20 year old 2001 Springbank Society

Dear readers, this week I am reviewing a trio of single malts that were bottled within the past two months. Please know that I am okay, and that the appropriate authorities have already been notified. I promise I will not make a habit of this.

Also all three whiskies are from Campbeltown, so the remaining bottles are probably on auction sites already.

First up is a 20 year old Longrow, distilled in 2001. Something happened with a parcel of older Longrow casks. In 2022 alone there were at least 10 single casks that were dumped at strengths between 40.1% and 44.9%abv. Meanwhile, today's whisky was fashioned from a batch of six casks that resulted in a 47.9%abv cask strength, so there were likely some more very low strength, or sub-40%abv, casks in the mix. Were these a bunch of leaky casks or was this a warehouse issue? If you know please share in the comment section below, thanks!

For what it's worth, 47.9%abv is a damned good drinking strength.

Distillery: Springbank

Brand: Longrow
Region: Campbeltown

Age: 20 years (October 2001 - August 2022)

Maturation: six refill bourbon hogsheads
Outturn: 1,488 bottles

Exclusive to: The Springbank Society

Alcohol by Volume: 47.9%
(from a bottle split)

NOTES

Very Islay on the nose as it starts with seaweed, antiseptic and lemons. Lychee juice, apple juice, apple danish and metal appear next, somewhere around the middle. Hints of farm and dried apricots stay in the background.

A very zingy (technical term) citrus smoke fills the palate. Mild notes of sweet, tart and bitter balance out in background. It improves with time as it picks up a combo of oranges + black walnuts + salty smoke, with bits of dry savory herbs and dried apricots around the edges.

Tangy lemons and smoky residue finish it off, with smaller notes of black walnuts and sweet oranges in the background.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Fans can keep chasing those wine-finished teenage-ish Longrows, while I'd be happy with any 18-21yo refill casks. This batch lands right between Islay and Campbeltown – at the Isle of Gigha? – delivering ocean, medicine and citrus. Nothing seems to have been wrong with any of the casks, though it falls a little short in development and complexity in the palate and finish, keeping it from the 90-point range. I'm left wondering, how many of Longrow casks will make it to 25 years?

Availability - Secondary market
Pricing - I dunno
Rating - 88