After writing about 16 different Kilchomans this year, I'm suffering from Kilchoman fatigue. You may be too, after my five posts this week, so I promise this will be the last post about Kilchoman for a long while.
1. Kilchoman and Longrow are both in my Top Ten Favorite Single Malts list, with the latter being in my top five. I chose to do these two packed weeks of reviews to end the year thinking that I'd be hootin' and hollerin' with joy about these malts/brands, with there being at least a few super duper whiskies. Instead, while there were a couple very good items, there were a larger number of not very good ones. Two things became clear. First, that these beloved brands were in fact fallible. And secondly, not only are their cheapest basic single malts (Machir Bay and Peated) respectable, they're better than many of the brands' more premium products.
2. Getting peat + wine to work well is very difficult, yet most peated whisky producers are doing it damn-the-result style and promptly bottling it in order to expand their product ranges. In some cases the limited edition hype will clear out the bottles regardless of quality. But I wonder, are these customers actually opening their bottles? Or are they hoarding? Or are they "investing" (aka flipping)? And for those who are drinking their whiskies, are they so motivated to buy a second bottle or come back for the next edition? Time will tell if these products can outlast their hype.
3. Due to the prices of the Kilchoman and Longrow whiskies reviewed over the past weeks, I wouldn't buy a single one of these single malts. Good-to-very-good young single malts (especially if they're not single casks) will not get me to part with $120 or more. And I'm one of the fans!
4. Single malt whisky prices have changed drastically. The selection of quality whiskies for the lower working classes were abandoned 8-10 years ago. And now the quality options for the middle classes are fading. Thankfully, several good basic single malt "expressions" remain. If we get priced out of those, then the industry (whose volume sales continue to struggle) is going to have to offer us more than NASes to keep our business.
Sunday, December 27, 2015
Friday, December 25, 2015
Single Malt Report: Kilchoman 10th Anniversary Release
Happy Christmas, to those of you who do the Christmas! May you wear your Aunt Clara's bunny suit well.
2015 marked the 10th anniversary of Kilchoman Distillery's opening. Since they didn't actually start distilling until December, their actual 10th birthday is right about now. In honor of their continuing existence, they released this whisky.
When I read the announcement about this release I, like a number of their fans, got excited that they were putting out a 10 year old whisky! But it's not a 10 year old whisky. Nope. Even though the number 10 is the boldest number on the label, even though 2005-2015 is clearly listed on the label, it's actually a 3 year old whisky. Or, as per the label, it's a whisky without an official age statement.
Though it "includes whisky from Cask Number 01/2005, the first cask ever filled at Kilchoman", it contains whisky from casks filled between 2005 and 2012. Thus it's legally three years old......but also selling for $160+. Though the idea behind this whisky is very cool, the label misleads. With great regret, I call shenanigans.
Ignoring the preceding editorial, how's the whisky? I'm very thankful to have gotten a sample of it from my whisky buddy, Brett, who also supplied the Port Cask and Madeira Cask samples. Thanks, Brett!
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| Yet another ritual stolen from the pagans. |
When I read the announcement about this release I, like a number of their fans, got excited that they were putting out a 10 year old whisky! But it's not a 10 year old whisky. Nope. Even though the number 10 is the boldest number on the label, even though 2005-2015 is clearly listed on the label, it's actually a 3 year old whisky. Or, as per the label, it's a whisky without an official age statement.
Though it "includes whisky from Cask Number 01/2005, the first cask ever filled at Kilchoman", it contains whisky from casks filled between 2005 and 2012. Thus it's legally three years old......but also selling for $160+. Though the idea behind this whisky is very cool, the label misleads. With great regret, I call shenanigans.
Ignoring the preceding editorial, how's the whisky? I'm very thankful to have gotten a sample of it from my whisky buddy, Brett, who also supplied the Port Cask and Madeira Cask samples. Thanks, Brett!
Brand: Kilchoman
Region: Islay
Type: Single Malt Whisky
Maturation: a combo of ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks
Age: technically three years, with casks from 2005 to 2012
Age: technically three years, with casks from 2005 to 2012
Alcohol by Volume: 58.2%
Limited Bottling: 3,000
Limited Bottling: 3,000
Colored? No
Chillfiltered? No
NEAT
Its color shines as a bright yellow gold.
The nose leads off with peated orange blossoms, mint chip ice cream, and rope. Apricots and dried berries roll in from the various casks. A nice farmy hint wafts in after a few minutes.
A hardy peat sings the loudest in the palate, one can almost feel both the mossy fibers and smoke. Mixed nuts in earthy molasses. Lime candy and black pepper. Light bitterness, light sweetness. A chest-filling warmth. With time it picks up notes of mint jelly and grape jam.
The simple but moderate length finish is peppery and lightly sweet. Some smoke, salt, and tangy citrus.
WITH WATER (~46%abv)
The farmy note moves forward in the nose, followed by moderate notes of peat, mint leaves, tree bark, menthol, prunes, and brandied cherries.
The palate develops a bracing bitterness to go with a brown sugary peat. Small notes of menthol, cayenne pepper, and tobacco float about.
The finish holds cinnamon, pepper, menthol, and black coffee with a little bit of sugar.
COMMENTS
The nose is excellent, lovely and full, maybe the most balanced Kilchoman I've ever sniffed. The palate can't compete, but proves very agreeable in its simplicity. The whisky swims pretty well, with the nose winning out again. Price and label gripes aside, this is a well built whisky. It doesn't necessarily feel older than most Kilchomans, it's just good whisky. But about that price though, damn. It keeps me from ever chasing down a bottle.
Availability - Scarce in US and Europe
Pricing - $150-$190, it may be cheaper at the distillery if it's still available
Rating - 88
NEAT
Its color shines as a bright yellow gold.
The nose leads off with peated orange blossoms, mint chip ice cream, and rope. Apricots and dried berries roll in from the various casks. A nice farmy hint wafts in after a few minutes.A hardy peat sings the loudest in the palate, one can almost feel both the mossy fibers and smoke. Mixed nuts in earthy molasses. Lime candy and black pepper. Light bitterness, light sweetness. A chest-filling warmth. With time it picks up notes of mint jelly and grape jam.
The simple but moderate length finish is peppery and lightly sweet. Some smoke, salt, and tangy citrus.
WITH WATER (~46%abv)
The farmy note moves forward in the nose, followed by moderate notes of peat, mint leaves, tree bark, menthol, prunes, and brandied cherries.
The palate develops a bracing bitterness to go with a brown sugary peat. Small notes of menthol, cayenne pepper, and tobacco float about.
The finish holds cinnamon, pepper, menthol, and black coffee with a little bit of sugar.
COMMENTS
The nose is excellent, lovely and full, maybe the most balanced Kilchoman I've ever sniffed. The palate can't compete, but proves very agreeable in its simplicity. The whisky swims pretty well, with the nose winning out again. Price and label gripes aside, this is a well built whisky. It doesn't necessarily feel older than most Kilchomans, it's just good whisky. But about that price though, damn. It keeps me from ever chasing down a bottle.
Availability - Scarce in US and Europe
Pricing - $150-$190, it may be cheaper at the distillery if it's still available
Rating - 88
Thursday, December 24, 2015
Single Malt Report: Kilchoman Madeira Cask Matured (2015)
Released a year after yesterday's Port Cask, Kilchoman's Madeira Cask Matured single malt was distilled in the same year (2010 per the website, 2011 per the bottle, again), but bottled a year later. So this one is a year older. The whisky also spent its full life in 20ish wine casks, in this case first fill ex-Madeira casks. I liked the Port Cask, let's see how a little more maturation fares with this winesky.
NEAT
Its color is a brassy gold.
The peat is in the mid-to-background in the nose, while ripe apples and limes are up front. There's lemon cake and vanilla, or is it pound cake in orange syrup? A small note of peach candy. By the 30 minute mark the wine has vanished and I'm left with a glass of newmake.
The palate is loaded with cinnamon and tequila. Reminiscent of their 100% Islay releases. A roots-and-soil peat. Gingerbread cookies and a light fruity sweetness.
The simple finish is of cinnamon, tequila, and peppery peat.
Will a little extra water open this one up further?
WITH WATER (~40%abv)
The nose is big on vanilla and marshmallows. Then gravel, honey, lemon zest, and something synthetic like carpet fibers.
The palate has cinnamon, lots of cinnamon. Really grassy, vegetal, and sugary. It's very similar to their newmake.
Cinnamon, vanilla, and marshmallows in the finish.
WORDS
Other than the nose, this is so similar to Kilchoman's newmake that it leaves me surprised that it's even four years old. The 3yo Port Cask felt more mature than this. While I do like Kilchoman's distillate, I expected more from this product. I'm not a tequila (specifically white tequila here, añejo is fine, and so is mezcal) fan, so those notes do nothing positive for me. I'm used to a richness in Kilchoman's 3yos, but this 4yo was missing that altogether. While I'm glad the wine didn't topple the spirit, something needs to wake this one up a bit. Water does not do the trick. And then there's the pricing...
Wow, I just shat all over this whisky. This stuff really isn't a horror show. I'd drink it again and it's sure to warm a body up in the winter. But it's the first regular Kilchoman I've had that feels younger than its age, which means that their usual magic didn't work this time.
Availability - Europe only, I think
Pricing - $100-$125
Rating - 75
Brand: Kilchoman
Region: Islay
Type: Single Malt Whisky
Maturation: first-fill ex-Madeira casks
Age: 4 years (2011-2015)
Age: 4 years (2011-2015)
Alcohol by Volume: 50%
Limited Bottling: 6,000
Limited Bottling: 6,000
Colored? No
Chillfiltered? No
Many thanks, again, to Brett for the sample!!!
Many thanks, again, to Brett for the sample!!!
NEAT
Its color is a brassy gold.
The peat is in the mid-to-background in the nose, while ripe apples and limes are up front. There's lemon cake and vanilla, or is it pound cake in orange syrup? A small note of peach candy. By the 30 minute mark the wine has vanished and I'm left with a glass of newmake.
The palate is loaded with cinnamon and tequila. Reminiscent of their 100% Islay releases. A roots-and-soil peat. Gingerbread cookies and a light fruity sweetness.The simple finish is of cinnamon, tequila, and peppery peat.
Will a little extra water open this one up further?
WITH WATER (~40%abv)
The nose is big on vanilla and marshmallows. Then gravel, honey, lemon zest, and something synthetic like carpet fibers.
The palate has cinnamon, lots of cinnamon. Really grassy, vegetal, and sugary. It's very similar to their newmake.
Cinnamon, vanilla, and marshmallows in the finish.
WORDS
Other than the nose, this is so similar to Kilchoman's newmake that it leaves me surprised that it's even four years old. The 3yo Port Cask felt more mature than this. While I do like Kilchoman's distillate, I expected more from this product. I'm not a tequila (specifically white tequila here, añejo is fine, and so is mezcal) fan, so those notes do nothing positive for me. I'm used to a richness in Kilchoman's 3yos, but this 4yo was missing that altogether. While I'm glad the wine didn't topple the spirit, something needs to wake this one up a bit. Water does not do the trick. And then there's the pricing...
Wow, I just shat all over this whisky. This stuff really isn't a horror show. I'd drink it again and it's sure to warm a body up in the winter. But it's the first regular Kilchoman I've had that feels younger than its age, which means that their usual magic didn't work this time.
Availability - Europe only, I think
Pricing - $100-$125
Rating - 75
Wednesday, December 23, 2015
Single Malt Report: Kilchoman Port Cask Matured (2014)
In addition to Loch Gorm, Machir Bay, 100% Islay, and the single casks, Kilchoman added some special releases to their range in 2014 and 2015. The first of these was a Port Cask Matured single malt. Though not a single cask, it was a limited release made up of single malt aged entirely in (approximately 20) ruby port casks. Though the official website references that the casks were filled in 2010, the bottle says that the distillation happened in 2011. So what we have here is a three year old whisky. If anyone has a good track record with barely legal whisky, it's Kilchoman (specifically their non-100% Islay stuff). Let's see how it fares with port.
NEAT
The color is ruby gold.
The nose leads with cherries and baked fruit tarts, but also heaps of peat ashes. The peat gets mossier with time and the fruits turn into roses. There are also notes of white frosting, agave nectar, grass, and dandelions. Vanilla and a Laphroaig-like peat move in at the 30 minute mark.
Peat and heat hit first in the palate, along with a fruity sweetness around the edges. Lots of fresh pepper and ginger in the back. A spicy zing all over the tongue. Though the fruit is plummy at first, it trends towards limes later.
No fruit but limes in the finish. Black pepper, salt, ashes, and a little sugar. The moderate heat reads spicy.
Let's see what happens when it gets soaked a bit:
WITH WATER (~40%abv)
The nose gets rawer. Burning plastic, dog fur, and cinnamon. Tart berries, rich peat, and Nillas show up later.
Peat peat peat, peppery dirty peat in the palate. Some molasses and vanilla. A hint of ginger. The port shows up as raspberry soda.
The finish still has a spicy bite. Smoky residue hovers above sea salt and raspberry candy.
THOUGHTS, MEDITATIONS, AND THAT SORTA STUFF
I'll tell you what, this beats the snot out of the Longrow Red (also Ruby!) Port Cask Matured whisky. It's certainly much younger, but in this case that also means the wine is more reserved and usually lets the malt do the shouting. And with the volume cranked up louder, the peaty spirit is crisp and bold. The palate stands up to the water very well, though the nose begins to look its age.
While this is better than the Longrow Port Cask, it's still a half step behind Laphroaig's Portwood, so I'd love to see them bottle this at 6 years of age, if they're willing to wait, next time. And yes, it is a relatively small batch, released at a high ABV by a very small business, but the $120 price tag prevents me (and many of their fans) from plucking a bottle from the shelves.
Availability - Getting a little scarce, especially in Europe.
Pricing - $115-$130
Rating - 86
Brand: Kilchoman
Region: Islay
Type: Single Malt Whisky
Maturation: ex-ruby port casks
Age: 3 years (2011-2014)
Age: 3 years (2011-2014)
Alcohol by Volume: 55%
Limited Bottling: 6,000
Limited Bottling: 6,000
Colored? No
Chillfiltered? No
Many thanks to Brett for the sample!!!
Many thanks to Brett for the sample!!!
NEAT
The color is ruby gold.
The nose leads with cherries and baked fruit tarts, but also heaps of peat ashes. The peat gets mossier with time and the fruits turn into roses. There are also notes of white frosting, agave nectar, grass, and dandelions. Vanilla and a Laphroaig-like peat move in at the 30 minute mark.
Peat and heat hit first in the palate, along with a fruity sweetness around the edges. Lots of fresh pepper and ginger in the back. A spicy zing all over the tongue. Though the fruit is plummy at first, it trends towards limes later.
No fruit but limes in the finish. Black pepper, salt, ashes, and a little sugar. The moderate heat reads spicy.
Let's see what happens when it gets soaked a bit:
WITH WATER (~40%abv)
The nose gets rawer. Burning plastic, dog fur, and cinnamon. Tart berries, rich peat, and Nillas show up later.
Peat peat peat, peppery dirty peat in the palate. Some molasses and vanilla. A hint of ginger. The port shows up as raspberry soda.
The finish still has a spicy bite. Smoky residue hovers above sea salt and raspberry candy.
THOUGHTS, MEDITATIONS, AND THAT SORTA STUFF
I'll tell you what, this beats the snot out of the Longrow Red (also Ruby!) Port Cask Matured whisky. It's certainly much younger, but in this case that also means the wine is more reserved and usually lets the malt do the shouting. And with the volume cranked up louder, the peaty spirit is crisp and bold. The palate stands up to the water very well, though the nose begins to look its age.
While this is better than the Longrow Port Cask, it's still a half step behind Laphroaig's Portwood, so I'd love to see them bottle this at 6 years of age, if they're willing to wait, next time. And yes, it is a relatively small batch, released at a high ABV by a very small business, but the $120 price tag prevents me (and many of their fans) from plucking a bottle from the shelves.
Availability - Getting a little scarce, especially in Europe.
Pricing - $115-$130
Rating - 86
Tuesday, December 22, 2015
Single Malt Report: Kilchoman Loch Gorm, 1st Edition (2013)
Loch Gorm first hit the shelves in 2013 to great anticipation and sold out very quickly (in the LA area at least). Kilchoman's single sherry casks had been beloved by thousands of whisky drinkers/hoarders to such an extent that people were paying $100+ for these 4 year old bottlings. So when Loch Gorm arrived at 6 years of age and around $80, one can understand the excitement.
Luckily for me, one of my good whisky buddies, Tetris, scooped up a bottle in time. He opened it this year and saved me a sample!
Since then the excitement around Loch Gorm has quieted down. It's now a 5 year old whisky and its price often pushes $100. But it's still the cheapest way to buy a fully sherried Kilchoman, with the single sherry casks now priced above $130. I reviewed the 2014 Loch Gorm and found it sulphury, farmy, young, and crazy; definitely enjoyable, but not worth the money, and not yet up to the standards of other sherried Islays.
But now here's the original, distilled in 2007, released in 2013. Was it worth the hype?
NEAT
Its color is quite dark for such a young whisky. Darker than the 2014 edition.
The nose is very leathery. New sneaker rubber peat and tennis balls. Riding steadily beneath that is gingerbread and mixed berry preserves. After 20+ minutes, a nice gianduja gelato note appears.
Peat cinders and cayenne pepper lead off the palate. Something about Kilchoman's sherry casks frames the peat so that it seems larger than that of the bourbon casks. A soft cherry fruitiness starts around the edges, then gradually becomes more berried and spreads out.
Loads of smoke in the finish. Smaller notes of saltines and lemon zest. It grows more peppery, less sweet with time. A very good length on it.
WITH WATER (~40%abv)
The nose quiets down, closing up rather than opening with water. Some brighter peat, more floral. Creme de menthe and plastic toys.
The palate gets really herbal and grassy. Lotsa peat again. A little bitterness forms. Dry sherry in the background. A total absence of sweetness.
The finish is more austere. Just peat and bitter herbs.
WHAT WE HAVE HERE IS...
...a richer and slightly more complex whisky than the 2nd (2014) edition. It's also becomes a different whisky when water is added, and perhaps more appealing to those who like more austere whiskies. There's plenty of big peatin' existing right alongside plenty of fruit in the neat version, then tight herbal dry smoke when hydrated. Loch Gorm #1 won't romance you like Lagavulin DE nor knock you on your ass like Ardbeg Uigeadail, but I'd recommend it over the similarly priced (at the time) Bowmore Darkest.
So yes, I think this one's better than the 2nd edition. Is it due to its one additional year of aging? Or better casks? I'd bet the latter over the former. If anyone has had the 3rd (2015) edition, let us know in the comments what you thought of it.
Availability - editions 2 & 3 can still be found at specialty retailers in the US, but you might have to go to the secondary market to find the first edition
Pricing - was $80, is probably north of $100
Rating - 87
Luckily for me, one of my good whisky buddies, Tetris, scooped up a bottle in time. He opened it this year and saved me a sample!
Since then the excitement around Loch Gorm has quieted down. It's now a 5 year old whisky and its price often pushes $100. But it's still the cheapest way to buy a fully sherried Kilchoman, with the single sherry casks now priced above $130. I reviewed the 2014 Loch Gorm and found it sulphury, farmy, young, and crazy; definitely enjoyable, but not worth the money, and not yet up to the standards of other sherried Islays.
But now here's the original, distilled in 2007, released in 2013. Was it worth the hype?
Brand: Kilchoman
Region: Islay
Type: Single Malt Whisky
Maturation: Oloroso Sherry Butts, then a two week finish in hogsheads
Age: 6(-ish?) years - 2007-2013
Age: 6(-ish?) years - 2007-2013
Alcohol by Volume: 46%
Limited Bottling: 10,000
Limited Bottling: 10,000
Colored? No
Chillfiltered? No
NEAT
Its color is quite dark for such a young whisky. Darker than the 2014 edition.
The nose is very leathery. New sneaker rubber peat and tennis balls. Riding steadily beneath that is gingerbread and mixed berry preserves. After 20+ minutes, a nice gianduja gelato note appears.
Peat cinders and cayenne pepper lead off the palate. Something about Kilchoman's sherry casks frames the peat so that it seems larger than that of the bourbon casks. A soft cherry fruitiness starts around the edges, then gradually becomes more berried and spreads out.
Loads of smoke in the finish. Smaller notes of saltines and lemon zest. It grows more peppery, less sweet with time. A very good length on it.
WITH WATER (~40%abv)
The nose quiets down, closing up rather than opening with water. Some brighter peat, more floral. Creme de menthe and plastic toys.
The palate gets really herbal and grassy. Lotsa peat again. A little bitterness forms. Dry sherry in the background. A total absence of sweetness.
The finish is more austere. Just peat and bitter herbs.
WHAT WE HAVE HERE IS...
...a richer and slightly more complex whisky than the 2nd (2014) edition. It's also becomes a different whisky when water is added, and perhaps more appealing to those who like more austere whiskies. There's plenty of big peatin' existing right alongside plenty of fruit in the neat version, then tight herbal dry smoke when hydrated. Loch Gorm #1 won't romance you like Lagavulin DE nor knock you on your ass like Ardbeg Uigeadail, but I'd recommend it over the similarly priced (at the time) Bowmore Darkest.
So yes, I think this one's better than the 2nd edition. Is it due to its one additional year of aging? Or better casks? I'd bet the latter over the former. If anyone has had the 3rd (2015) edition, let us know in the comments what you thought of it.
Availability - editions 2 & 3 can still be found at specialty retailers in the US, but you might have to go to the secondary market to find the first edition
Pricing - was $80, is probably north of $100
Rating - 87
Monday, December 21, 2015
Single Malt Report: Kilchoman 4 year old 2009 100% Islay single cask #344 (K&L exclusive)
Last week was Longrow Week. This week, it's Kilchoman Week with five whiskies!
Kilchoman blasted out of the starting gates with its first legal whisky in 2009. Yes, the whisky was (and still is) very young, but it also was surprisingly good for its age. Under the early tutelage of Jim Swan, the Wills family aimed to create a single malt that could be palatable at a young age without having to overoak the sh*t out of it. I've heard the one of the secrets to this is taking a very small middle cut of the spirit. But if it were only that easy, we'd be seeing many others with similar success right now. If anyone else out there has any other theories about their methods, let us know in the comments below.
Over the past few years K&L Wine Merchants have taken in some many exclusive single ex-bourbon Kilchoman casks that it seemed like they'd flooded the market this year, eventually having to put four of these casks on the "Insider Advantage" sale list. In August I (along with My Annoying Opinions and Chemistry of the Cocktail) reviewed cask #74. I liked that one a lot, having split two bottles with friends.
Here's another one of those four casks, #344.
It's one of their 100% Islay whiskies, thus all of the barley came from Islay and was peated at half the ppms of their usual Port Ellen Maltings barley. I tend to find their 100% Islay whiskies very young, unbalanced, and half-baked in ways that their regular range whiskies do not. Maybe it's due to the fact there's less peat for the youth (or flaws) to hide behind? I don't know. The only one I've liked is the firecracker single sherry cask K&L had three years ago. Let's see how this one holds up.
Many thank yous go out to reader Ryan S. who sent this sample to me!
NEAT
Its color is a nice simple amber.
The nose begins with cinnamon schnapps, yeast, and oceany peat. Beneath that is orange oil, violets, and a hint of vanilla. Maybe a slight manure note. With air it quiets down rather than opening up.
At first the palate is reminiscent of unaged malted rye spirit, with loads of cinnamon candy and white peppercorns. Very sugary, maybe some toffee in there. But underpinning this are soil and root notes. With time, a pencil lead note appears......and starts consuming everything.
The finish is sweet and spicy with tingly heat, lemony stuff, and soil.
Feels like it needs to open up. How about some water?
WITH WATER (~46%abv)
Cassia cinnamon on the nose. A decent beach and barley note. A little earthy. A little soapy. Some confectioner's sugar.
Uh oh. The palate goes totally cockeyed. A harsh earthy note gets very lead-like and metallic. Then burnt hair meets burnt cinnamon. It doesn't feel entirely safe to drink.
Mostly heat and the burnt metallic things in the finish.
Maybe some more water might help?
WITH WATER (~40%abv)
The nose is malty with minimal peat. The cinnamon note is reduced. Saltines and yeast.
Thank goodness, the unnerving note in the palate has reduced (though not vanished). It's now mostly sweet and simple. Hints of black pepper, cinnamon, and soil.
Black pepper and sugar in the brief finish.
SOME MORE WORDS
Okay, first some positives. This is a young craft whisky that is NOT overoaked. Kilchoman was clearly confident enough to not hide anything with woodwork. The nose is decent when neat. With a little bit of water some nice stuff pops out. Also this whisky supports a small business and small Islay farms.
On the other hand, this another 100% Islay that feels its age, or actually younger. In fact, I prefer the newmake. In the palate, the lead and metallic notes are unsettling. As I said in the notes, when water's added it does not feel totally safe to consume. And of course, though the whisky comes to us courtesy of small businesses, that doesn't matter if there are quality issues, especially when this bottle was originally priced at $110 (then later dropped to $80).
I think I'm done with the 100% Islays. I've had six or eight (fuzzy memory) of them but there's only one I'd drink again and that one's long gone. Their regular range is superior in quality, and the Machir Bay is cheaper.
Availability - Sold out just this month
Pricing - started out at $110, then went on sale for $80
Rating - 72 (nose in the low 80s, palate in the low 60s)
Kilchoman blasted out of the starting gates with its first legal whisky in 2009. Yes, the whisky was (and still is) very young, but it also was surprisingly good for its age. Under the early tutelage of Jim Swan, the Wills family aimed to create a single malt that could be palatable at a young age without having to overoak the sh*t out of it. I've heard the one of the secrets to this is taking a very small middle cut of the spirit. But if it were only that easy, we'd be seeing many others with similar success right now. If anyone else out there has any other theories about their methods, let us know in the comments below.
Over the past few years K&L Wine Merchants have taken in some many exclusive single ex-bourbon Kilchoman casks that it seemed like they'd flooded the market this year, eventually having to put four of these casks on the "Insider Advantage" sale list. In August I (along with My Annoying Opinions and Chemistry of the Cocktail) reviewed cask #74. I liked that one a lot, having split two bottles with friends.
Here's another one of those four casks, #344.
It's one of their 100% Islay whiskies, thus all of the barley came from Islay and was peated at half the ppms of their usual Port Ellen Maltings barley. I tend to find their 100% Islay whiskies very young, unbalanced, and half-baked in ways that their regular range whiskies do not. Maybe it's due to the fact there's less peat for the youth (or flaws) to hide behind? I don't know. The only one I've liked is the firecracker single sherry cask K&L had three years ago. Let's see how this one holds up.
Many thank yous go out to reader Ryan S. who sent this sample to me!
Exclusive to: K&L Wines
Age: 4 years (July 23, 2009 - June 2, 2014)
Maturation: ex-bourbon barrel
Alcohol by Volume: 60.9%
Cask: 344/2009
Cask: 344/2009
Colored? No
Chillfiltered? No
Sample from the top of the bottle
Sample from the top of the bottle
NEAT
Its color is a nice simple amber.
The nose begins with cinnamon schnapps, yeast, and oceany peat. Beneath that is orange oil, violets, and a hint of vanilla. Maybe a slight manure note. With air it quiets down rather than opening up.
At first the palate is reminiscent of unaged malted rye spirit, with loads of cinnamon candy and white peppercorns. Very sugary, maybe some toffee in there. But underpinning this are soil and root notes. With time, a pencil lead note appears......and starts consuming everything.
The finish is sweet and spicy with tingly heat, lemony stuff, and soil.
Feels like it needs to open up. How about some water?
WITH WATER (~46%abv)
Cassia cinnamon on the nose. A decent beach and barley note. A little earthy. A little soapy. Some confectioner's sugar.
Uh oh. The palate goes totally cockeyed. A harsh earthy note gets very lead-like and metallic. Then burnt hair meets burnt cinnamon. It doesn't feel entirely safe to drink.
Mostly heat and the burnt metallic things in the finish.
Maybe some more water might help?
WITH WATER (~40%abv)
The nose is malty with minimal peat. The cinnamon note is reduced. Saltines and yeast.
Thank goodness, the unnerving note in the palate has reduced (though not vanished). It's now mostly sweet and simple. Hints of black pepper, cinnamon, and soil.
Black pepper and sugar in the brief finish.
SOME MORE WORDS
Okay, first some positives. This is a young craft whisky that is NOT overoaked. Kilchoman was clearly confident enough to not hide anything with woodwork. The nose is decent when neat. With a little bit of water some nice stuff pops out. Also this whisky supports a small business and small Islay farms.
On the other hand, this another 100% Islay that feels its age, or actually younger. In fact, I prefer the newmake. In the palate, the lead and metallic notes are unsettling. As I said in the notes, when water's added it does not feel totally safe to consume. And of course, though the whisky comes to us courtesy of small businesses, that doesn't matter if there are quality issues, especially when this bottle was originally priced at $110 (then later dropped to $80).
I think I'm done with the 100% Islays. I've had six or eight (fuzzy memory) of them but there's only one I'd drink again and that one's long gone. Their regular range is superior in quality, and the Machir Bay is cheaper.
Availability - Sold out just this month
Pricing - started out at $110, then went on sale for $80
Rating - 72 (nose in the low 80s, palate in the low 60s)
Saturday, December 19, 2015
Saturday Malt Report: Inchgower 13 year old 2000 for Austrian Whisky Connoisseurs
Yes, it's another rare weekend whisky review! This one arrives courtesy of a sample from Cobo. I've only covered some old Inchgowers thus far, now here's a chance to review a younger one. It's a single sherry butt (perhaps half of one as per the bottle count) selected by Cobo for the Austrian Whisky Connoisseurs group in Graz.
NEAT
It has a dark gold color.
The nose is of sherry and the ocean. Fudgy and fruity (peach nectar and honeydew). Reminiscent of sherried Yamazaki (wherever it may be). Meanwhile the spirit still sings through. There are floral esters peeking out here and there, a little bit of grass and watermelon rind, and an organic note that's almost peat-like. Ooh, and toffee pudding. After 30 minutes, larger notes of raisins and tobacco appear.
The palate is moderately sweet and pleasantly sherried, the way Macallan 12 used to be. Chocolate and salt, easy on the dried cherries. The melon rind shows up here too. Some butterscotch and good maltiness. Limes and black pepper.
The sherry notes retreat in the finish, leaving the green stuff and organic notes from the nose. Malt, salt, and pepper. A good herbal bitterness, like a German digestif.
WITH WATER (~46%abv)
Boldly floral nose, Inchgower spirit! The sherry gets dirtier, the greener notes get louder. Some mineral and lime sharpness. Small notes of pound cake and prunes.
The palate is sweeter, spicier, maybe even richer, but definitely louder. More vanilla, more tart citrus, and some tobacco.
The good length finish is a now a dessert, all vanilla, toffee, and spice.
COMMENTS
This was a very good cask with high quality sherry, oak, AND spirit notes all in tune. The whisky works well with or without water. (Sorry about the alliteration there.) Plus the price was very right (54 euro). I'm jealous. Well picked, Cobo! Now will someone please get a high quality well-priced sherry cask of Inchgower to The States?
Availability - originally was exclusive to AWC, but now it might be found in the secondary market
Pricing - was €54
Rating - 89
Bottler: Austrian Whisky Connoisseurs
Age: 13 years (2000-2014)
Maturation: sherry butt
Alcohol by Volume: 59.1%
Limited Release: 271 bottles
Limited Release: 271 bottles
NEAT
It has a dark gold color.
The nose is of sherry and the ocean. Fudgy and fruity (peach nectar and honeydew). Reminiscent of sherried Yamazaki (wherever it may be). Meanwhile the spirit still sings through. There are floral esters peeking out here and there, a little bit of grass and watermelon rind, and an organic note that's almost peat-like. Ooh, and toffee pudding. After 30 minutes, larger notes of raisins and tobacco appear.
The palate is moderately sweet and pleasantly sherried, the way Macallan 12 used to be. Chocolate and salt, easy on the dried cherries. The melon rind shows up here too. Some butterscotch and good maltiness. Limes and black pepper.
The sherry notes retreat in the finish, leaving the green stuff and organic notes from the nose. Malt, salt, and pepper. A good herbal bitterness, like a German digestif.
WITH WATER (~46%abv)
Boldly floral nose, Inchgower spirit! The sherry gets dirtier, the greener notes get louder. Some mineral and lime sharpness. Small notes of pound cake and prunes.
The palate is sweeter, spicier, maybe even richer, but definitely louder. More vanilla, more tart citrus, and some tobacco.
The good length finish is a now a dessert, all vanilla, toffee, and spice.
COMMENTS
This was a very good cask with high quality sherry, oak, AND spirit notes all in tune. The whisky works well with or without water. (Sorry about the alliteration there.) Plus the price was very right (54 euro). I'm jealous. Well picked, Cobo! Now will someone please get a high quality well-priced sherry cask of Inchgower to The States?
Availability - originally was exclusive to AWC, but now it might be found in the secondary market
Pricing - was €54
Rating - 89
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