Irish Single Malt 26 year old 1988 The Whisky Agency, The Perfect Dram

If you've followed any of the major whisky writers (online or in print) you have likely seen them sing the praises of 20+ year old Irish single malts distilled in the late '80s and early '90s. There's one reason why they do so. The whiskey is delicious. That's the reason. And why is it delicious? Frooooooooooot. Fruit. The fruitiness can be kind of outrageous. One only wonders if Bushmills (oops, I said it) can ever reach these heights, or even a suggestion of this style, again. One need only compare the '80s Bushmills blend with the current version to see that something has been lost even at 3 years and 40%abv.

This is my first review of one of those well-regarded Irish malts distilled in the late '80s, and likely my last. Sourcing something like this has gotten nearly impossible. I wonder if anyone opens these bottles anymore or just flips them while citing Whiskyfun 90+ point reviews. Well, here comes a 90+ point D4P review.

Distillery: Old Bushmills Distillery (maaaaaaybe)
Location: County Antrim, Northern Ireland

Bottler: The Whisky Agency

Range: The Perfect Dram
Age: 26 years (1988-2015)
Maturation: bourbon barrel
Outturn: 201 bottles
Alcohol by Volume: 50.7%
(from a bottle split)

NOTES

Oh. Oh baby, the nose. I'll list it in order. Mangoes + peaches + a little bit of guava. Watermelon + jasmine blossoms + apricots. Kiwis. Hints of dandelions and toffee! All those fruits get sugarier with time, and honeys pour in.

It's easier for me to form thoughts about the silky palate. Guava and grapefruit juices mix with honey and a pinch of sea salt. Little bits of menthol, wormwood, and bitter citrus keep things from getting too sweet. There are even herbal and grassy characteristics in the background.

The whiskey leaves behind a tart aura(?!) with a dusting of sugar in the finish. Kiwis, guavas, and bitter citrus peels sink into the tongue, and I'm not sure when the sensation ends.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Heaven for fruit lovers. On the nose, this liquid reads like some beautifully crafted juice. How did barley, yeast, water, and wood turn into this? The palate is more whiskey-bound, complex and perfectly balanced, yet definitely......whiskey. Of course I want more More MORE, but I don't think anyone makes stuff like this anymore, anywhere. Meanwhile, my time machine is in the shop, indefinitely. As always, I encourage everyone to open their bottles and share. Please enjoy together. Cheers!

Availability - Maybe the secondary market, but...
Pricing - ...I won't look
Rating - 92

Teeling Single Pot Still Whiskey, 09/2019 batch

Back when I raved about Irish whiskey, it wasn't regarding the young brash Cooley upstart, rather the Midleton Machine won me over. Cooley's single malts rarely appealed to my palate, which may have cost me some hipster cred.

Today there are many more Irish distillers, and I want to support them, but their prices have kept me away. For instance, I was on the Dingle peninsula for a weekend and saw a few moments of Dingle distillery's construction. I was so excited! And then their minimally-aged single malts came out with $80-$120 price tags. And then I was less enthused. Meanwhile, I've lost interest in all of Midleton's blends, and keep waiting for Bushmills to release some age-stated stuff with a reasonable ABV. Waterford's "Irish Terrior! But Also Lots of French Wine" approach seems to be an oxymoron, and it shows in the whiskey. And then there's Teeling.

I've only had Teeling's Small Batch blend, which works well enough with its rum casks. But really I've only tried versions that used sourced whiskey. Their Single Pot Still expression was the first of their releases to use only Teeling Distillery's spirit. Today's version is (I think) the fourth overall batch. Time for some baby pot still!

Distillery: Teeling
Style: Single Pot Still
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Owner: The Teeling Family
Age: 3-4 years old

Mashbill: 50% malted barley + 50% unmalted barley
Maturation: Maybe ex-bourbon, ex-wine, and virgin oak? Maybe not?
Bottling year: 2019
Alcohol by Volume: 46%
Chillfiltered? No
Colored? No
(from a bottle split)

NOTES

The nose starts with some very raw spirit, like a cross between new make and white dog. Essentially grain eau de vie with baker's yeast. Lots of cinnamon with smaller notes of apricot jam and apple sauce.

It's a relatively easy drinker considering its youth, though mostly one dimensional. The palate is heavy on barley, with some golden raisins, Granny Smith apples, and cinnamon. After 20+ minutes a brighter note of lemon marmalade on soda bread appears.

Honey, apples, cinnamon, and peppercorns fill the finish, with a burst of Apfelwein appearing in later sips.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

This batch reads like a work in progress, an early revenue generator. One hopes current versions would have a bit of 7-8 year old whiskey in the mix. I haven't run out to buy a bottle because this batch tastes of $30 whiskey, and the current price on this expression is at least twice that amount. The 46%/nc/ncf presentation does keep the whiskey honest, and the spirit withstands whatever casketry was employed. I will root for Teeling's success, but I'll pass on this whiskey unless someone puts it on sale someday.

Availability - specialty retailers worldwide
Pricing - $55-$85 (USA), $40-$70 (elsewhere)
Rating - 77

Gold Spot 9 year old Single Pot Still Whiskey

I still try to keep up with the the Spots even though they aren't my favorite Irish whiskey brand. It all started with Green Spot, then came Yellow Spot, Blue Spot, Red Spot, a bunch of winey Green Spots, and then the limited edition Gold Spot that I'm reviewing today.

The current version of the standard Green Spot does nothing for me, but the Yellow and Red are pretty decent, at an indecent price. Gold Spot sold for less than Yellow, Blue, and Red, while also possessing an elevated ABV, which is potentially good news, but note the past tense of "sold" from the beginning of this sentence. Because the whiskey is "limited" and everyone is trying to wring every desperate penny out of every whisk(e)y bottle, most of the American retailers on WineSearcher have doubled or tripled the SRP on Gold Spot.

I don't know, y'all. Down the hatch!

pic pilfered from
a hacker of drinks

Brand: Spot
Spot Color: Gold
Style: Single Pot Still
Country: Ireland
Distillery: Midleton
Owner: Pernod Ricard
Age: at least 9 years
Maturation: a mix of bourbon, port, sherry, and Bordeaux casks
Bottling year: 2022
Alcohol by Volume: 51.4%
Chillfiltered? No
Colored? Probably
(from a bottle split)

NEAT

As anticipated (see the above list of casks), there's a lot of nose traffic. In one lane there's saline, chalk, kirsch, wet grass, and something vaguely smoky. Next lane over: unripe banana and hints of perfume and steel wool. Then, of all things, hot cotton candy waits in the turning lane. Less crowding in the palate. Pineapple, lime, and cardamom arrive first. Then some dingy fun pot still youth, wrapped up in burlap. And then there's the hot cotton candy again. It's in the finish as well, along with oak spice and sweet citrus.

DILUTED to 46%abv, or ¾ tsp of water per 30mL whiskey

Desserts everywhere! Banana pudding, Rolos candies, and circus peanuts in the nose's foreground. Saline and toasted oak in the background. Toasted oak encircles butterscotch, sweet apples, and pineapples in the palate, with hints of burlap and bitter oak. The circus peanuts return in the finish, hovering over orange peels and burlap.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

I'm not sure all the parts come together in this one, though thankfully all those seasoned casks couldn't kill off the pot still spirit. The whiskey is too sugary and oaky when diluted, but it works at full strength because the fruits provide a foothold. As odd as the cotton candy notes may sound, they were kinda fun; much better than the circus peanuts. It really is a dessert drink, one I'd choose over the Green and Blue Spots, but certainly not at its price point.

Availability - US, UK, and (maybe) Ireland
Pricing - all over the place: $130-$300
Rating - 83 (neat)

Bourbon and Rye Day Friday: Joseph Magnus Cigar Blend Bourbon, batch 58 "Darth Vader"

I tried one of these Joseph Magnus Cigar Blend batches earlier this year; though I don't remember the batch, it was finished in armagnac, cognac, and sherry casks. Spicy as hell and very sweet, it was reminiscent of a Barrell production, nearly its own unique spirit. Whether it was good or not, I couldn't tell you, but it certainly was A LOT.

Today's bourbon is my second-ever JMCB batch, apparently a well-known one since it sold at auction for $1250 last year. Thankfully, I got in on a bottle split of the stuff for a much lower (prorated) amount. Part of a parcel of Kentucky and Indiana bourbons ranging from 14 to 20 years, allegedly, batch 58 does not appear to have had any alternate cask finishes. The blenders named it, Darth Vader. Will that be the Vader from the end of Revenge of the Sith? Or the Vader from the end of Rogue One?

Brand: Joseph Magnus

Range: Cigar Blend

Source Location: Kentucky and Indiana

Type: Bourbon

Mashbill: ???

Maturation: American white oak

Age: possibly 14 years old

Batch: 58, "Darth Vader"

Alcohol by Volume: 66.17%

(from a bottle split)

NEAT

Who knew Darth Vader had such a big schnozz under the mask? Waves of maple syrup, Rolos candies, cinnamon sticks, and black raisins fill the nose. Vanilla bean, cut lumber, and Endust spray emerge from behind the sweets after a while. It's a palate cooker at full strength. Once the heat lifts, one may find strata of wood spices, with brown sugar, tart cherries, and Demerara-based rum far beneath. It finishes with bitter chocolate, tart cherries, and barrel char.

DILUTED to ~57%abv, or 1 tsp of water per 30mL whiskey

A bit more focus to the nose here. Maple syrup, vanilla bean, and dried cherries up front, toffee in the back. Much more approachable, the palate offers maple syrup, wood smoke, and brown sugar. Quieter notes of pipe tobacco and black raisins arrive after some time. It finishes up with wood smoke, brown sugar, raisins, and a mild unlit cigar.

DILUTED to ~50%abv, or 2 tsp of water per 30mL full strength whiskey

Almost a different whiskey here. Desserts comprise the nose, like vanilla things, caramel candies, and lemon cream pies. The palate is a mix of wood spices, cassia, tart lemons, and brown sugar. It finishes sweet and tart, with more brown sugar than before.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

This ain't no Emo Vader, though the high ABV causes most of the violence. Once diluted, it's a great, straightforward, dessert pour, with 57%abv being the money spot for my palate. There are no overwhelming bitter oak notes nor tastebud-stripping tannins present, which is a pleasant surprise for a 14+ year old bourbon. If your cigar smoking days are far behind you (like mine are for me), no worries, you will still enjoy this brawling bourbon. But don't go into it looking for complexity. Much like the Skywalker Saga, it's best consumed mindlessly.

Availability - All gone
Pricing - ???
Rating - 86

Knockdhu 30 year old 1990 SMWS 115.17

This weekend I matched up a youthful, punchy 10 year old Cadenhead Knockdhu, with a 30 year old from SMWS. The SMWS refill bourbon barrel had enough liquid to fill 161 bottles, but with only 43.2 points of alcohol left. Did some liquored-up angels feast on this cask, stealing the poison and leaving the water behind? Or did some fight remain in the barrel?

Distillery: Knockdhu
Owner: Inver House Distillers (via Thai Beverages plc via International Beverage Holdings Ltd.)
Region: Far East Speyside

Bottler: SMWS

Age: 30 years (15 Feb 1990 - 2020)

Maturation: refill bourbon barrel

Cask #: 115.17, "Flower meadows and lemon groves"
Outturn: 161 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 43.2%

(from a bottle split)

NOTES

Lemons, lemongrass, dried leaves, earth, kiwi candy, and dried rose petals arrive first in the gentle nose. Clementines appear at the 30-minute mark, as do hints of ocean and Sugar Daddy candy. At 45 minutes, it's all apple blossoms and fresh apricots.

The palate is so delicate. White cake with lemon zest and roses. Chocolate donuts and orange peel. Toasty oak, toasty bread, and sweet cherries.

Lots of oranges and Ovaltine in the finish, with some mineral and sweeter notes in the background.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

With such a vivid nose, the whisky surprised me with a palate so fragile that I didn't want to disturb the glass too much. Very pretty stuff, and thankfully not too oaky, this Knockdhu might have been glorious had it been bottled 5-10 years earlier, but I won't carp too much as it's easy drinkin'. Also, kudos to SMWS for a cask name that actually works.

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - ???
Rating - 86

Knockdhu 10 year old 2006 Cadenhead Single Cask

Knockdhu, formerly a DCL distillery but now under the ownership of Inver House, lives east of the similarly named Knockando, on the edge of Speyside. Inver House helped us all keep the two distilleries straight by naming Knockdhu's single malt brand, anCnoc. I've reviewed several official anCnocs but never an independently bottled Knockdhu. And I have two! Two different bottlers, two different casks, and two very different whiskies. I tried them side-by-side this weekend. Here's the first one:

Distillery: Knockdhu
Owner: Inver House Distillers (via Thai Beverages plc via International Beverage Holdings Ltd.)
Region: Far East Speyside

Bottler: Cadenhead

Age: 10 years (2006 - 2017)

Maturation: bourbon hogshead

Outturn: 252 bottles

Exclusive to: USA
Alcohol by Volume: 56.8%

(from a bottle split)

NEAT

It's all new make on the nose, yeasty spirit just off the still. Nutritional yeast, rock candy, rosewater, and grapefruit ride up front, something farmy dwells in the back. A bit of heat on the palate, and lots of barley, sugar, and salt. Some digestive biscuits and nectarines develop over time. It finishes hot and sugary, with milder tangy and metallic notes.

DILUTED to ~46%abv, or < 1½ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

Not much change on the nose. It's less farmy, with more citrus and cake. Prettier. The palate gets slightly weirder, with fermented fruit-like notes. Plenty of yeast and barley beneath. A single citrus note finishes it off.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

This sleepy hoggie imparted not much more than some color. I would have guessed the resulting raw Knockdhu was as close to the 3 year old minimum age as possible. The whisky has its joys, like the vibrant, zippy nose, but I can't imagine how one gets through a whole bottle of this stuff. I adore new make, but I'm not sure I could get past a second pour. It's mostly an educational thing, offering us a chance to get as close to the Knockdhu/anCnoc spirit as possible, without working in the stillroom.

Availability - Probably sold out
Pricing - around $100?
Rating - 78

Barrell Craft Spirits, Part 3: Four bourbons

I don't think I've ever tried ten different American whiskies in one week before, but here I am in the middle of a intensely humid summer drinking a half score of barrel strength oak extracts. And yet I always insist I am not a masochist.

This three-parter concludes with Barrell's original product, blended bourbons. There are no wine, rum, brandy, beer, or hot sauce casks involved this time. Just oaks and whiskies. All four of these batches include bourbons distilled in Indiana (MGP), Tennessee (Dickel?), and Kentucky (up to three different recipes?). The first two are from the standard bourbon cask strength batches, the third one is of the fancy schmancy Gray Label series, and the fourth comes from the Vantage series (a mix of Mizunara, French, and toasted US oaks).

Mixing bourbons does indeed sound like a good place to start blending experiments, allowing for more focus and fewer embarrassing flubs. It's less risky than most of their other products, but does it produce better results???

Part 3: Four bourbons

Barrell Bourbon Cask Strength Batch 14 9 years old, 54.7%abv	Barrell Bourbon Cask Strength Batch 34 6 years old, 57.3%abv	Barrell Bourbon Gray Label (NAS) Batch 5 50.29%abv	Barrell Vantage Bourbon, Three oak types 57.94%abv
The nose stomps in full of corn, citrus, and bluster. It's sugary, with its Luxardo cherries, maple syrup, and corn whiskey. But it also has paint VOCs and wet cardboard in the background.	Peanuts in the nose. Peanut dust and burnt peanuts. Candy corn, barrel char, and caramel also sit up front. It picks up smaller notes of dijon mustard and watermelon Jolly Ranchers with time.	A surprisingly earthy nose offers soil, black walnuts, and mesquite smoke. Oats and caramel sauce, with just a hint of the peanut dust.	Dried peaches, dried cherries, and a hint of cabernet sauvignon arrive first in the group's most expressive nose, followed by flowers and brine. Maple and vanilla stay in the background.
Got some boozy, honeyed barrel char going on in this nose. Lemonade, tart nectarines, and roses fill the middle, with a slight nuttiness in the back.	The barrel char here reads smoky. Lots of salt and umami in the palate, as well. Moderate tartness and sweetness. Mint candy and black pepper appear after some time.	The palate is all cinnamon and tart cherries at first. A piece of halvah here, a few red Twizzlers there. Some savory and tart notes stay behind.	Fruits and flowers, begins the nose. Ripe cherries and plums. Cinnamon, cardamom, and just the right amount of sweetness. Pretty!
It finishes tangy and sweet, with mild tannins.	Tart and sweet balance out in the finish. It's also leafy and minty, with a vanilla hint.	Halvah, cherry lollipops, and red Twizzlers finish it up.	It finishes with toasty wood spices rather than barrel char (duh?). It's mildly sweet with a few tart cherries as well.
DO I GET IT? Yes	DO I GET IT? Yes	DO I GET IT? Yes	DO I GET IT? I certainly do
Ah yes, getting closer to classic bourbon territory. Its palate is the least "craft" element, and the most satisfying, never reading too raw or oaky. Decent stuff but I started to forget about it with each successive bourbon here.	Another one with a palate that tops the nose, though I didn't mind the peanutty side. Very satisfying and better balanced than I'd expected. It feels like a single bourbon rather than a mix, which is a success!	Much different than the first two, this Gray Barrell's earthy nose was a fun surprise, and it was very very drinkable, perhaps due to a good abv as well as quality blending. I'll have more to say about this whiskey below**.	My favorite Barrell whiskey yet. The mix of oaks seems to make more sense than cask seasonings; they play so well together here, offering a great swirl of fruits and spices. I may seek out a Vantage bottle of my own.
Rating: 81	Rating: 83	Rating: 84	Rating: 85

FINAL THOUGHTS...

**From what I've read, the first four Barrell Bourbon Gray Label batches had 15 year age statements. The fifth, the very 50.29%abv batch I tried today, had no age statement and yet the price remained the same as the age-stated batches. To bourbon fans everywhere I say, "Welcome to Scotch Land!" Yes, you've all been here before with Elijah Craig and others, but when a smaller and more independent company follows suit, it just hurts a little more. Such is the marketplace. We fans of other whiskies know your pain.

Today's grouping was best of the three, probably due to what I'd mentioned in the intro. Blending bourbons without playing with barrel finishings will deliver more consistent results. Maybe it sounds boring, but the bourbon is good.

Of course, to be partially contradictory, the one real experiment here was the Vantage and its various oak types, and it bested the rest. It highlighted the pleasures of toasted (as opposed to charred) barrels, which is safer than in-cask-blending various spirits, so you'll get a bright union of fruits and spices rather than a potential Long Island Iced Tea in a bottle. 

I am certainly not saying Barrell should discontinue their blending adventures. They've wisely diversified their whiskey ranges, offering more standard bourbons for a curmudgeon like me, and wilder stuff like Seagrass for weirdos like me. From an outsider's view, they seem to be having fun. May they also find continued success.