Knockdhu 30 year old 1990 SMWS 115.17

This weekend I matched up a youthful, punchy 10 year old Cadenhead Knockdhu, with a 30 year old from SMWS. The SMWS refill bourbon barrel had enough liquid to fill 161 bottles, but with only 43.2 points of alcohol left. Did some liquored-up angels feast on this cask, stealing the poison and leaving the water behind? Or did some fight remain in the barrel?

Distillery: Knockdhu
Owner: Inver House Distillers (via Thai Beverages plc via International Beverage Holdings Ltd.)
Region: Far East Speyside

Bottler: SMWS

Age: 30 years (15 Feb 1990 - 2020)

Maturation: refill bourbon barrel

Cask #: 115.17, "Flower meadows and lemon groves"
Outturn: 161 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 43.2%

(from a bottle split)

NOTES

Lemons, lemongrass, dried leaves, earth, kiwi candy, and dried rose petals arrive first in the gentle nose. Clementines appear at the 30-minute mark, as do hints of ocean and Sugar Daddy candy. At 45 minutes, it's all apple blossoms and fresh apricots.

The palate is so delicate. White cake with lemon zest and roses. Chocolate donuts and orange peel. Toasty oak, toasty bread, and sweet cherries.

Lots of oranges and Ovaltine in the finish, with some mineral and sweeter notes in the background.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

With such a vivid nose, the whisky surprised me with a palate so fragile that I didn't want to disturb the glass too much. Very pretty stuff, and thankfully not too oaky, this Knockdhu might have been glorious had it been bottled 5-10 years earlier, but I won't carp too much as it's easy drinkin'. Also, kudos to SMWS for a cask name that actually works.

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - ???
Rating - 86

Knockdhu 10 year old 2006 Cadenhead Single Cask

Knockdhu, formerly a DCL distillery but now under the ownership of Inver House, lives east of the similarly named Knockando, on the edge of Speyside. Inver House helped us all keep the two distilleries straight by naming Knockdhu's single malt brand, anCnoc. I've reviewed several official anCnocs but never an independently bottled Knockdhu. And I have two! Two different bottlers, two different casks, and two very different whiskies. I tried them side-by-side this weekend. Here's the first one:

Distillery: Knockdhu
Owner: Inver House Distillers (via Thai Beverages plc via International Beverage Holdings Ltd.)
Region: Far East Speyside

Bottler: Cadenhead

Age: 10 years (2006 - 2017)

Maturation: bourbon hogshead

Outturn: 252 bottles

Exclusive to: USA
Alcohol by Volume: 56.8%

(from a bottle split)

NEAT

It's all new make on the nose, yeasty spirit just off the still. Nutritional yeast, rock candy, rosewater, and grapefruit ride up front, something farmy dwells in the back. A bit of heat on the palate, and lots of barley, sugar, and salt. Some digestive biscuits and nectarines develop over time. It finishes hot and sugary, with milder tangy and metallic notes.

DILUTED to ~46%abv, or < 1½ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

Not much change on the nose. It's less farmy, with more citrus and cake. Prettier. The palate gets slightly weirder, with fermented fruit-like notes. Plenty of yeast and barley beneath. A single citrus note finishes it off.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

This sleepy hoggie imparted not much more than some color. I would have guessed the resulting raw Knockdhu was as close to the 3 year old minimum age as possible. The whisky has its joys, like the vibrant, zippy nose, but I can't imagine how one gets through a whole bottle of this stuff. I adore new make, but I'm not sure I could get past a second pour. It's mostly an educational thing, offering us a chance to get as close to the Knockdhu/anCnoc spirit as possible, without working in the stillroom.

Availability - Probably sold out
Pricing - around $100?
Rating - 78

Barrell Craft Spirits, Part 3: Four bourbons

I don't think I've ever tried ten different American whiskies in one week before, but here I am in the middle of a intensely humid summer drinking a half score of barrel strength oak extracts. And yet I always insist I am not a masochist.

This three-parter concludes with Barrell's original product, blended bourbons. There are no wine, rum, brandy, beer, or hot sauce casks involved this time. Just oaks and whiskies. All four of these batches include bourbons distilled in Indiana (MGP), Tennessee (Dickel?), and Kentucky (up to three different recipes?). The first two are from the standard bourbon cask strength batches, the third one is of the fancy schmancy Gray Label series, and the fourth comes from the Vantage series (a mix of Mizunara, French, and toasted US oaks).

Mixing bourbons does indeed sound like a good place to start blending experiments, allowing for more focus and fewer embarrassing flubs. It's less risky than most of their other products, but does it produce better results???

Part 3: Four bourbons

Barrell Bourbon Cask Strength Batch 14 9 years old, 54.7%abv	Barrell Bourbon Cask Strength Batch 34 6 years old, 57.3%abv	Barrell Bourbon Gray Label (NAS) Batch 5 50.29%abv	Barrell Vantage Bourbon, Three oak types 57.94%abv
The nose stomps in full of corn, citrus, and bluster. It's sugary, with its Luxardo cherries, maple syrup, and corn whiskey. But it also has paint VOCs and wet cardboard in the background.	Peanuts in the nose. Peanut dust and burnt peanuts. Candy corn, barrel char, and caramel also sit up front. It picks up smaller notes of dijon mustard and watermelon Jolly Ranchers with time.	A surprisingly earthy nose offers soil, black walnuts, and mesquite smoke. Oats and caramel sauce, with just a hint of the peanut dust.	Dried peaches, dried cherries, and a hint of cabernet sauvignon arrive first in the group's most expressive nose, followed by flowers and brine. Maple and vanilla stay in the background.
Got some boozy, honeyed barrel char going on in this nose. Lemonade, tart nectarines, and roses fill the middle, with a slight nuttiness in the back.	The barrel char here reads smoky. Lots of salt and umami in the palate, as well. Moderate tartness and sweetness. Mint candy and black pepper appear after some time.	The palate is all cinnamon and tart cherries at first. A piece of halvah here, a few red Twizzlers there. Some savory and tart notes stay behind.	Fruits and flowers, begins the nose. Ripe cherries and plums. Cinnamon, cardamom, and just the right amount of sweetness. Pretty!
It finishes tangy and sweet, with mild tannins.	Tart and sweet balance out in the finish. It's also leafy and minty, with a vanilla hint.	Halvah, cherry lollipops, and red Twizzlers finish it up.	It finishes with toasty wood spices rather than barrel char (duh?). It's mildly sweet with a few tart cherries as well.
DO I GET IT? Yes	DO I GET IT? Yes	DO I GET IT? Yes	DO I GET IT? I certainly do
Ah yes, getting closer to classic bourbon territory. Its palate is the least "craft" element, and the most satisfying, never reading too raw or oaky. Decent stuff but I started to forget about it with each successive bourbon here.	Another one with a palate that tops the nose, though I didn't mind the peanutty side. Very satisfying and better balanced than I'd expected. It feels like a single bourbon rather than a mix, which is a success!	Much different than the first two, this Gray Barrell's earthy nose was a fun surprise, and it was very very drinkable, perhaps due to a good abv as well as quality blending. I'll have more to say about this whiskey below**.	My favorite Barrell whiskey yet. The mix of oaks seems to make more sense than cask seasonings; they play so well together here, offering a great swirl of fruits and spices. I may seek out a Vantage bottle of my own.
Rating: 81	Rating: 83	Rating: 84	Rating: 85

FINAL THOUGHTS...

**From what I've read, the first four Barrell Bourbon Gray Label batches had 15 year age statements. The fifth, the very 50.29%abv batch I tried today, had no age statement and yet the price remained the same as the age-stated batches. To bourbon fans everywhere I say, "Welcome to Scotch Land!" Yes, you've all been here before with Elijah Craig and others, but when a smaller and more independent company follows suit, it just hurts a little more. Such is the marketplace. We fans of other whiskies know your pain.

Today's grouping was best of the three, probably due to what I'd mentioned in the intro. Blending bourbons without playing with barrel finishings will deliver more consistent results. Maybe it sounds boring, but the bourbon is good.

Of course, to be partially contradictory, the one real experiment here was the Vantage and its various oak types, and it bested the rest. It highlighted the pleasures of toasted (as opposed to charred) barrels, which is safer than in-cask-blending various spirits, so you'll get a bright union of fruits and spices rather than a potential Long Island Iced Tea in a bottle. 

I am certainly not saying Barrell should discontinue their blending adventures. They've wisely diversified their whiskey ranges, offering more standard bourbons for a curmudgeon like me, and wilder stuff like Seagrass for weirdos like me. From an outsider's view, they seem to be having fun. May they also find continued success.

Barrell Craft Spirits, Part 2: Two ryes

On Monday I reviewed a quartet of Barrell Craft Spirits bourbon(-ish) releases, hoping I'd understand the whiskies enough to actually ponder and opine. The attempts were mostly successful! Now onto the ryes, both in the Barrell Seagrass range.

Something struck me as I looked at the Seagrass label this weekend...

Was this whiskey named SEAGRASS because it is made from rye produced at former SEAGRAM'S distilleries??? Yes, I'm aware that Barrell has a philanthropical relationship with The Ocean Foundation. That's a great thing! But how about it? SEAGRASS = SEAGRAMS? Should I be very proud of myself, or has this theory already been plastered all over social media?

To those new to this rye curio, it's a blend of American and Canadian ryes, finished in Martinique Rhum, Madeira, and apricot brandy barrels. Yes, Barrell's blenders are once again hunching over their blending tables, squinting at their samples, and swirling their beakers, trying to create something unique and palatable at the same time.

I reviewed a different batch of Barrell Seagrass Rye last month, and enjoyed the whiskey. Not enough to run out and buy a bottle, but pretty close to it. This time, I have a different batch of the standard Seagrass AND a gray label (fancy stuff) Seagrass edition aged 16 years. The 16yo had the same barrel finish, but it's fashioned from 100% Canadian rye, so you don't have to open up a new credit card just to afford one bottle.

Here they are, side by side, as I use Monday's approach to review them:

Part 2: Two ryes

Barrell Seagrass Whiskey American and Canadian Ryes 60.1%abv	Barrell Seagrass Whiskey Canadian Rye 16 years old 1,861 bottles, 66.67%abv
Like its 59.92%abv sibling batch, this whiskey possesses a crazy crazy nose. It starts with a peppery rye spirit base, then spins out to apricot jam, orange zest, and a snuffed citronella candle. Then a fennel bulb, warm Sprite, maple syrup, Carpano Antica, and calamine lotion.	This one's nose begins with such a strong chlorine note, that I wonder if it has anything to do with the ethyl burning my skull. Beneath the heat, one may find dark chocolate, eucalyptus, rosewater, and dry soil up front. Then milky coffee, kale, green bell peppers, and raspberries.
The palate arrives hotter than expected. Plenty of rye spirit at the center, again, but it's surrounded by bubblegum, lemon bars, honey, and bitter citrus peel. The sweetness is nearly overwhelming.	Thankfully, the palate is neither too hot nor too sweet. It's like a journey through a tree. Really. First there's bark, then pulp, then bark again. Honey, cinnamon, and lime candy surround the wood, while a hint of pinot noir keeps showing up in the background.
Rye candy finish. Honey, cardamom, and lemon hard candies.	It has a very similar finish to the 60.1% standard Seagrass, mostly lemons, honey, and dried herbs. No burning sensations.
DO I GET IT? I think so!	DO I GET IT? Yes.
This may be the sugariest rye I've ever tasted. That position used to be held by Angel's Envy, and their rummy rye. With this whiskey, I appreciate that the rye spirit shows through all the decoration, but it also exists completely separate from the finishing casks' contributions. Nothing merges, at least within the palate. The nose, the highlight, lives in its own dimension.	16 year old North American whiskey is going to be oak juice no matter what, and this whiskey proves it again. Aside from that alarming chlorine experience, the nose isn't too zany; in fact, I kinda like it. Meanwhile, the palate bludgeons the drinker with a tree trunk. It doesn't matter what the finishing casks held, the wood wins, eliminating complexity. Perhaps one can give it a positive spin: the wood provides focus. It also holds the whiskey back.
Rating: 79	Rating: 78

FINAL THOUGHTS...

Here's a link to that 59.92%abv batch of Seagrass. As of this morning, it remains my favorite Barrell product. The casks and the sweetness barely graced that batch, and the rye element was very solid. Today's 60.1% batch smells and tastes much younger, while also pushing the finishing barrels harder, resulting in something that feels less baked; the dreaded capital "C" Craft affliction.

It's a rough estimate, but 4-out-of-5 teenage North American whiskies are not going to work with my palate. I wonder if that has something to do with the thinness of column still spirit? Or just aggressively charred oak? Or both?

Next up, four Barrell bourbons!

Barrell Craft Spirits, Part 1: Four private releases

Having spent nearly two decades of my life engaged in creative pursuits, I know what it feels like when an audience doesn't get an original work. Most of the brain screams in frustration, "They don't understand it, so why are they criticizing it?! It's a Them problem, not a Me problem!" The agony is only intensified by that tiny voice mumbling in the background, "They don't get it because I missed something. I fell short somewhere."

Successfully blending spirits requires a unique skillset. Fashioning one high-quality whisky from dissimilar whiskies, then hitting that mark again and again really is a craft, and perhaps, with its greatest successes, it approaches an art form. 

I don't get many contemporary whiskies, but that's usually not because of the blenders. Most new whiskies from established producers don't come across as creative endeavors, rather they seem like corporate decisions to expand a product line with contrivances that no one ever asked for, like a McPizza or MegaLeg.

That's why I'll give new companies more leeway than conglomerate-controlled brands. For instance, I want to get Barrell Craft Spirits. They've gone all-in on casketry and cask-fuckery (my subtle terms), or in-cask blending (Serge's more thoughtful phrase), to produce something different. Barrell blends whiskies (and rums) from different distilleries and using a wide variety of casks. These casks include pear brandy, apricot brandy, Jamaican rum, blackstrap molasses rum, Martinique Rhum, Sicilian amaro, California Cabernet, Port, Madeira, Oloroso, Armagnac, Tokaji, Mizunara oak, French oak, and toasted American oak. And there are probably more.

Thus Barrell aims to create something new through a level of cask blending that's rarely been tried, but "new" can mean anything from a unique flavor profile, to a cocktail in a bottle, to a garbage fire. It's a risky approach, likely filled with flops along the way. So I want to understand, to get, some of Barrell's creations. Some of these blends do actually work, right?

Thanks to a whiskey group's organizer, I was able to buy into 10 Barrell bottle splits. Yes, this requires a lot of drinking. That's okay, the kids are out of town. 🙄

Part 1: Four private releases

Here's a quartet of four Barrells – one single barrel and three blends – that were selected by individual California retailers. The first two were bottled for my former haunt, Hi-Time Wine & Spirits. The single barrel Barrell appears to be just bourbon without any finishes. The three blends were all cask-finished, and not one of them was called "bourbon", but rather "whiskey".

Okay, I'm well hydrated, here it goes:

Barrell Single Barrel Bourbon Hi-Time #25L8, 8 years old, 54.78%abv	Barrell Whiskey Blend Hi-Time #AQ27, Tokaji Finish, 62.29%abv	Barrell Whisky Blend Roco Wine & Spirits #CJ30, Oloroso Finish, 61.04%abv	Barrell Whisky Blend Cypress Craft Liquor #AQ06, Armagnac Finish, 64.33%abv
At first it noses like candy. Specifically, orange creamsicles and black cherry soda. The angles arrive later: fennel seeds, white peppercorns, and nocino	The nose is all over the place. Port, cheap cream sherry, low-ester Jamaican rum, flowers, brine, and milk chocolate. It gets more vanilla-ed with time.	Barrel char. There are other things on the nose, like roses, cherry lollipops, almond extract, maple, and peanuts, but it's mostly barrel char.	I did not see this coming. It's cream soda, vanilla fudge, and Mt. Gay rum on the nose. Maybe some hints of lime zest, and eucalyptus in the far back, with time.
The palate comes in hotter than expected. Fennel seeds and black pepper arrive first. The sweets, second. Caramel, dried cherries, and brown sugar, with a hint of tart citrus.	The fizzy palate offers black cherry soda and rye-like pepperiness on the first sip. Subsequent sips offer bitter oak, cherry lollipops, and sour cherry candy.	Less barrel char in the palate, thankfully, but less of everything in general. Vanilla, caramel, and marzipan. And that's it.	The palate is VERY SWEET: vanilla-spiked Mt. Gay rum, bottled sour mix, chile oil heat, and a bit of oak spice, never really coming together.
The finish recombines some of the palate. Tart citrus and brown sugar are the loudest. Vanilla and black pepper, the quietest.	It finishes with an odd sweetness, like Aspartame-affected orange and cherry sodas.	A simple finish too. Marzipan, caramel, and bitter oak.	It finishes all funky tangy sugary, like a sweet rum and sour mix cocktail.
DO I GET IT? Yes! I recognize this as bourbon.	DO I GET IT? I thought I did until the finish. So...kinda?	DO I GET IT? Yes-ish.	DO I GET IT? Nope.
The edgier notes combine well with the fruits and sweets, and the tannins have yet to invade. There's nothing here that differs from younger cheaper bourbons, but I'd still be happy to drink this again, anytime.	The palate says, "bourbon". The nose says, "PAR. TAY." The finish says, "Bury me in a cocktail." That's a lot of voices I'm hearing in my head. Not sure if this blend needed more or less time in the Tokaji barrel.	It seems like a plain straightforward bourbon, so I wonder why they didn't label it "bourbon". The oloroso cask had almost no influence, and I think this "whiskey" could have used a wee pick-me-up.	I went back to the pic of the actual bottle to make sure I'm not drinking one of Barrell's rums. This is definitely something new, a 128-proof sugary cocktail in a bottle, but I can't imagine that being the intent.
Rating: 81	Rating: 77	Rating: 79	Rating: 72

FINAL THOUGHTS...

With more NOPEs anticipated and a lack of brutal oak experienced, I declare this tasting a success. I've had a pair of armagnac-bothered High Wests that I wasn't sold on, so I wonder if that brandy doesn't quite work with American whiskey. Would cognac be too gentle? On the other hand, I want to try more sherry-cask-finished bourbons because it could be an intriguing mix, depending on the type of bourbon and sherry. As for Tokaji? Good luck to the blenders.

For Part 2......actually I don't know which whiskies will be part of Part 2, yet. That will be a game-time decision. In the meantime, if you've had any of these four whiskies, please share your thoughts!

Things I Really Drink: Arran 14 year old (2010) AND Arran 14 year old (2017)

(Arran mini-cluster homepage)

As I've mentioned at least a dozen times, the 14-year-old was my favorite standard Arran single malt. It first appeared in 2010, then was retired in 2018. I'm not sure what motivated Arran management to kill off the 14, but they seem to have replaced it with a lot of NAS releases, a practice that was tapering off (rather than starting up) at most distilleries in 2018. In the five years since, I haven't bought any official Arrans.

I have in my possession here one of the first and one of the last batches of the 14 year old released in the USA, the former bought in Orange County, the latter in Chicago. The bottles have been sitting side-by-side collecting dust since their purchases. Since unpeated Arran tends to drink well in the summer, and I wanted to consume my remaining Arran samples, I thought July would be a great time to open both bottles. And indeed the time was right.

Back when Arran first updated their range in 2015, I attended a small gathering with the Arran rep and some whisky buddies. From the resulting post, here's the scoop on the shift from 14yo to 14yo:

As Arran's annual production has more than doubled since the distillery opened, there was a decision made to alter the cask management to manage the output.  The original 14 year old was from approximately 80% first fill bourbon casks, the rest from ex-sherries.  As per what I was told, James McTaggart (their master distiller) has elected to often use refill sherry casks for primary maturation and then later transfer that whisky into first-fill bourbon casks.  So that makes up a large part of the new 14 year old.  Also, I was told there are some older casks in the new 14 (and 10) to keep the whisky similar.  Again, that's hearsay, but official hearsay.

To summarize, the original 14yo was produced from 80% 1st fill bourbon casks and 20% sherry casks. Most of the 2015 updated version had its original maturation in refill sherry casks, then had a second round in 1st fill bourbon casks. I can confirm the whiskies are similar but different. Here are my notes, consolidated from a number of separate and combined tastings:

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Arran 14 year old (46%abv, ncf/nc, L 06 08 10, 2010)

A glorious nose! Kiwi, lychee, and yuzu arrive first, with almonds, halvah, and brine appearing 5-10 minutes later. The fruits lean more towards flowers after 20+ minutes, and a bit of milk chocolate replaces the nuts. There's also a funky note in the background. Picture: Loch Lomond Weird + Dunder + Dunnage. I love it.

The palate reads maltier than the nose, and those almonds turn into almond extract (yes, I know that comes from bitter almonds). Limes, grapefruits, and cara cara oranges fill the middle. Sometimes I find mango juice in the background, sometimes it's toffee pudding. No complaints either way.

Tropical and citrus fruit juices, sweet and tart, make up most of the finish. Hints of toffee, bitter herbs, and malt linger in the back.

Time has not mellowed me out, so I was worried that this Arran 14 would never live up to my expectations. Yet it does, and more. With bolder tropical fruits, less vanilla, thicker texture, and a longer finish than I remember, the original Arran 14 is one of the best mid-teens standard OBs I've ever had. Slainte!

Price - $54.99 at one of my secret stores in 2016

Rating - 90 (probably a bonus point for sentimental reasons)

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Arran  14 year old (46%abv, ncf/nc, L 18 07 17, 2017)

Yep, a different nose on this one. It begins with hefty nutty notes, like brazil nuts, walnuts, raw almonds, and sunflower butter. The cheerful fruitiness shows up, but it takes time. Here it's all limes and peaches. A little bit of yeast and pine show up in the far back.

The palate is fruitier than the nose. The nose's raw nuts appear, helping moderate all the sweet plums and oranges. Figs! Like the 2010 bottling, this one has some maltiness to it. It gains an herbal bitterness (almost wormwood) after 30 minutes. A little bit of toasted oak here and there too.

Another very good finish. Oranges, yellow cherries, and a touch of tart mango slowly fade into a gentle pepperiness.

The sherry casks had a greater influence on this version than on the old one, making it more contemporary in its style. It does feel warmer and spicier, but the fruits remain, and the wood never takes over. One can feel the balance in the 14, an equilibrium that slipped away in the first releases of the 16, 17, and 18 year olds.

Price - $79.99 at a not very secret store ca. 2018

Rating - 88

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It's a shame that Arran eliminated the 14 year old expression five years ago. May they someday find it in their hearts (and warehouses) to roll it back out in the future, no matter which recipe they use, the 2010 or the 2017. Both result in excellent single malts. Sherry cask fans may prefer the latter, while other folks (like me!) prefer the former. Arran's blenders have never been afraid to experiment, but I hope they realize they have succeeded with age-stated classic bottlings, like the 14 year old.

Arran 24 year old 1996, cask 1996/904 for Nickolls & Perks

(Arran mini-cluster homepage)

This cluster's quintet of Arran single casks ends with the oldie of the group, a 24-year-old bottled for the Nickolls & Perks shop. The single first-fill Oloroso hoggie offers the sort of color that makes certain whisky fans lose their wallets. For the past decade, my fave whisky color has been five-beer-piss, though whiskies of that hue are entirely different fluids than this sort of coffee-colored stuff. But, my mind is freed, so here it goes...

Distillery: Lochranza (the distillery formerly known as Arran)

Ownership: Isle of Arran Distillers

Range: Premium Cask

Age: 24 years (5 Aug 1996 - 10 June 2021)

Maturation: first-fill Oloroso hogshead

Cask #: 1996/904

Outturn: 277 bottles

Exclusive to: Nickolls & Perks

Alcohol by Volume: 49.3%

(from a bottle split)

NOTES

Huge nose here. Figs, molasses, almond butter, and apricot jam. Fresh raspberries and dried cherries. Then beef stock and a hint of dashi?

The thick palate arrives with a much less tannic edge than Monday's 20yo cask. Very dark chocolate, mint leaf, and eucalyptus fill the fore, with pipe tobacco and milky coffee in the middle, and tart limes and Serrano chiles in the background.

The tobacco gets smokier in the finish, mixing with milk chocolate, sweet citrus, Serranos, and a whiff of metal.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Of course, the figs won me over at the start, but the lack of harsh, bitter oak kept me around for more. It's the sort of cask-driven winesky (yes, if port casks can produce wineskies, so can sherry casks) with which I can get on board. This is also one of the only members of this mini cluster with a palate nearly as vibrant as the nose.

This cask does get the disclaimer — one that's becoming more and more prevalent — that its whisky could have been from any one of scores of distilleries around the world. There's nothing about this drink that says Arran, or even Scotland. Just good carpentry here, with no beams nor seams exposed.

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - ???
Rating - 88