Glen Garioch 18 year old 2003 SMWS 19.71

Back to the Glen Garioch run!

To recap: SMWS obtained a large parcel of (at least three dozen?) first-fill bourbon barrels filled with Glen Garioch spirit distilled on the 17th of February 2003. I got my meat hooks into seven of these whiskies and the first two were great!

This one, named "Mad Wax: Fruity Load!" (mmhmm) by SMWS, arrives with a lighter ABV and a higher outturn than 19.59, thus the angels sought inebriation over hydration. But how's the whisky?

Distillery: Glen Garioch
Owner: Beam Suntory
Region: Eastern Highlands

Independent Bottler: Scotch Malt Whisky Society
Age: 18 years (17 February 2003 - 2021?)
Maturation: first-fill bourbon barrel
Cask #: 19.71, "Mad Wax: Fruity Load!" [Editor's note: 🙁]
Outturn: 230 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 54.4%
(from a paid event)

NEAT

More of the country style in the nose, huzzah! Hay, oats, apple peels, lemon peels, and a mineral Austrian Riesling (snob!). Hints of honey and brine, and okay maybe a little bit of hot wax. Oh, such barley on the palate. Some baked phyllo dough and witbier. Pickled ginger with sweet citrus. Limoncello and brown sugar. It finishes with a little combo of tingly citrus, pickled ginger, and witbier.

DILUTED to ~46%abv, or 1 tsp of water per 30mL whisky

Pears, apples, orange blossoms, and malt on the nose. The palate's become simpler, but crisp. A bright herbal bitterness blends flawlessly with clementines and toasted barley. The finish matches the palate, especially with that bitterness.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Wow. I know this style isn't a cash magnet, but it works wonders for my face. The first-fill barrels are very understated, and the spirit gleams. The way the casks keep all the lovely rustic youth while silencing the rawness makes me want to try the Oldmeldrum distillery's new make. And there are still four more of these to go...

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - ???
Rating - 89

Bourbon and Rye Day Friday: Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye, 132 US Proof batch

(The Royal) We interrupt this Glen Garioch programming to bring you one hot BARD Friday.

Alberta Distillers Limited (ADL), is like the MGP of the North by Northwest, essentially one huge factory cranking out rye spirit that everyone wants to steal bottle. In 2019 they started releasing their own stash at frighteningly combustible strengths. And just in time to fight Covid-19, the rye reached the US border in 2020, in a batch flexing 66%abv. Yes, that's 2/3s poison.

I tried it in 2021, orally. I survived, but it did not keep the coronavirus from invading my borders twice. As far as flavors, it wasn't terrible. In fact it was worryingly drinkable. Now I'm sitting down in the safety of my home to consume two ounces.

source

Brand: Alberta Premium

Distillery: Alberta Distillers Limited

Location: Alberta, Canada

Type: Rye whisky

Mashbill: 100% Rye

Maturation: "charred oak"

Alcohol by Volume: 66%

(from a bottle split)

NOTES

The rye's nose (and my nose) goes through three phases. Phase One: Roasted corn, hazelnuts, and wet sand. Phase Two: Candy corn and spiced rum. Phase Three: Lemon peels, wet dog fur, and flower blossoms. The palate is indeed hot, but not numbing. It's candy sweet, with a sprinkle of salt, a bit of barrel char, and plenty of lemons. Lots of sweet oranges roll into the finish, with hints of mint and pine in the back.

It shines most in a Manhattan (2:1 Rye:Carpano) Cocktail, bringing a pepper sauce spiciness and lots of tart citrus, unique in my experience.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

With a kinda weird, kinda nifty nose, and an approachable palate, this big Canadian can be sipped neatly in a Glencairn glass. I can't say I'd want to drink it all the time, as it's neither particularly rich nor fulfilling, though it could serve to numb one's brain if desired. But its Manhattan was really fun, and I'd certainly buy a bottle of it for that purpose, but not at $80, LOL 🙁. If dropping four score for cocktail booze doesn't ruffle your feathers, go for it!

Availability - North America
Pricing - 70-90USD
Rating - 82 (but mostly for cocktails!)

Glen Garioch 18 year old 2003 SMWS 19.59

A true sibling whisky of Monday's wonderful small batch, with all barrels carrying spirit distilled on February 17, 2003, today's Glen Garioch is a single cask release, one first-fill ex-bourbon bottled by the SMWS. At 59.8%abv, it's the drunkest of SMWS's 30+ sibling Garioch casks so far. Gimme gimme gimme.

source

Distillery: Glen Garioch
Owner: Beam Suntory
Region: Eastern Highlands

Independent Bottler: Scotch Malt Whisky Society
Age: 18 years (17 February 2003 - 2021)
Maturation: first-fill bourbon barrel
Cask #: 19.59, "Dates and Staves"
Outturn: 202 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 59.8%
(from a paid event)

NEAT

On the nose, a layer of toasted barley and candied pecans rests upon earth and hay. Time teases out notes of jasmine and vanilla bean later on. The palate starts with salty roasted almonds, umami (dried mushroom), and tart citrus. Hints of dried peaches, dried leaves, and hay highlight the background. It finishes with an even mix of tart, salt, and savory. A little bit of earthy smoke here, a dried peach there.

DILUTED to ~46%abv, or 1¾ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

It's a completely different whisky now, with key lime pie, orange peels, and carob on the nose. The palate is earthy and salty, with lots of walnuts and very tart citrus. It's all citrus (tart and bitter) in the finish.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Another great one from the 17th of February 2003. This is shaping up to be a hell of a parcel. There's a tiny bit more oak, and maybe slightly less cohesion, than Monday's whisky, but that one had the benefit of being a small batch, this barrel had to stand on its own. The palate, neat or diluted, may have been my favorite part with its tart fruits, earth, salt, and savoriness. I'm ready for the next five!

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - ???
Rating - 88

Glen Garioch 18 year old 2003 SMWS for Highland Whisky Festival 2022

I ended March with a quartet of Benrinnes releases that were all distilled on the same day. How about I one-up (or rather three-up) that by closing out April with seven Glen Garioch whiskies all distilled on the same day, and released by the same company?

That was a rhetorical question because I'm going to do it anyway.

Dozens of Glen Garioch casks containing whisky distilled on the 17th of February 2003, were likely purchased by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society in one large parcel, once upon a time. I was able to source seven of these whiskies thanks to a paid online tasting opportunity last month. The virtual event was co-hosted by SMWS Ambassador, Alan Wood, but I went sober for it because my daughters were staying with me.

The first of these whiskies is the rare SMWS whisky without a special cask coding (but with a fanciful name) because it was a multi-cask release for 2022's Highland Whisky Festival:

pic pilfered from Whiskybase

Distillery: Glen Garioch
Owner: Beam Suntory
Region: Eastern Highlands

Independent Bottler: Scotch Malt Whisky Society
Age: 18 years (17 February 2003 - 2022?)
Maturation: 5 or 6 first-fill bourbon barrels
Cask #: "Hazelnut Bubble Gum"
Outturn: 1128 bottles

Exclusive to: Highland Whisky Festival 2022
Alcohol by Volume: 55.6%
(from a paid event)

NEAT

A bright spring note, like a field of wildflowers, hits the nose first, followed by toasted cashews, fresh apples, dried apricots, and fresh cream. Barley and yeast linger in the back. The palate, "lovely" per my notes, is a swirl of barley, lemons, grapefruits, blossoms, and just a hint of sweetness. The grapefruits gain ground with time. It finishes with tart apples, orange gummies, and a whiff of smoke.

DILUTED to 46%abv, or 1¼ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

The nose focuses on lime zest, orange peels, and green apple peels. Tart limes and tart apples balance gorgeously with sweet oranges, malt, and the hint of soil in the palate. It concludes with orange blossoms, lime juice, and barley.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Though I've likely used the word "rustic" to describe Glen Garioch before, I'm going to do so again. Can such a rustic jewel come from a single cask, or does it require the sort of balance that comes from a tiny batch of barrels? The laziest batch of barrels, may I add gratefully. It's the sort of whisky one could spoil with attention all spring and summer...which would probably require multiple bottles.

Is this the prize-winner of the group, or is it a sign of things to come? I dearly hope it's the latter.

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - ???
Rating - 90

Bourbon and Rye Day Friday: Jews & Booze 6 year old MGP bourbon, barrel 420

SPOILER ALERT: This is one of the best privately selected bourbons I've ever owned, not because of things 420 related, nor because it was selected by fellow nerdy Jews, but because of its fruitiness. This is why all the NDPs need to put DISTILLED IN INDIANA in bold, italics, and underlined CAPS on their bottles' front labels. At least as of six years ago, Midwest Grain Products was still cranking out the good shit.

For some reason I took only one photo of the bottle (see further below), so I just now took a pic of the labels:

Yes, I officially tasted this on 4/20. No, there was nothing else in my system before or after consuming the bourbon. Other than some pulled pork and ice cream.

Distillery: Midwest Grain Products

Type: Straight bourbon

Location: Lawrenceburg, Indiana
Exclusive to: Jews and Booze (private group)
Mash Bill: 60% Corn, 36% Rye, 4% Malted Barley
Age: 6 years, 1 month

Bottle #: 45
ABV: 57.6% ABV

(from the bottom third of my bottle)

Fruit dominates the nose. First cherries and plums, then peaches and orange blossoms. Some Juicy Fruit gum too. Cinnamon and toffee decorate the background. Lemon candy, cherry juice, and salted pistachios highlight the palate, with a little bit of bubblegum and heat. It finishes with honey, lemons, orange blossoms, cinnamon, and burst of mint leaf.

It even works on the rocks (especially on an 80ºF day), with tart limes, tart raspberries, and sweet cherries leading the way.

Readers of this blog may know that bourbon is not my go-to drink. But this bourbon was, for much of the summer and fall of 2022, my go-to drink. In fact, I wish I'd purchased two or three bottles. It's just sweet enough without getting too sugary, and it's not too hot for my sensitive palate. And the fruit. The fruit! And now it's all gone. But I do anticipate more J and B barrel picks showing up on BARD Fridays this year.

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - ??
Rating - 88

Bunch o' Bimbers, Part Two

After three Bimbers featured in Monday's post, another three Bimbers (plus a Bimber that's not a Bimber) will be consumed today. Again the pours are ~15mL, so I'll continue to use grade ranges.

I'm not sure how this sort of thing works, but my friend Secret Agent Man received four whisky samples from Bimber's US importer for a Zoom tasting. At the end of the tasting, Man gave me the remainders. Thank you, Man!!!

Though the official session's tasting order escapes me, here's the order I'm going with:

Apogee XII 12 year old blended malt

Bimber ex-bourbon casks, batch 3

Bimber Klub release 2, Vino de Naranja casks

Bimber USA release, Oloroso finish, cask #250/1

You may notice two things here. Firstly, the Bimbers still don't have age statements. Secondly, WTF is Apogee? Bimber distillery is less than eight years old.

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Apogee XII 12 year old Blended Malt, 46.8%abv

Though, Apogee is bottled by Bimber, it does not contain Bimber single malt. Instead it's a vatting of 12 year old malts from two Speyside distilleries, finished in ex-Bimber casks.

It's a very simple whisky. The nose starts with lemons, citrons, and barley, as almond extract lingers around the edges. Brown ale and vanilla start the palate, followed by toasted barley and a leafy bitterness. It finishes with vanilla and malt.

I'm curious as to why Bimber bottled this, and I'm not sure what this was supposed to be an apogee of. Does Apogee serve as a 12yo target for their own single malt? Or was it to demonstrate how their 4 year old stuff is better than 12 year old scotch? It doesn't even seem "on brand". What it is is a decent $40 whisky selling for $120.

Grade range: C+/B- (around 79-80)

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Bimber Ex-Bourbon Casks Edition, batch 3, 5000 bottles, 51.6%abv

The most complex Bimber nose I've yet sniffed. Orange peels and maraschino cherries meet ocean brininess and a bit of dirty hay. Cinnamon candy appears later on. The palate is yeasty, floral, and very sweet. Bitter citrus in the middle, the cinnamon candy in the back. It finishes warm and tooth-achingly sweet.

This whisky probably nudges ahead of Monday's single bourbon cask, which was the best of that trio. The sugar keeps this one from ascending, so my naïve thought is the whisky needed more time to calm down and gain complexity. Ay, there's the rub. I hate being that guy again, but......this stuff at 6-8 years......ya know?

Grade range: B- (around 81-83)

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Bimber Klub release 2, Vino de Naranja Casks, 2100 bottles, 50.2%abv

The Klub is the official Bimber......club. Vino de naranja is orange peel-macerated Spanish white wine. And the abv looks mighty good. That's all I've got.

The nose doesn't start as expected. Pencil graphite and dead leaves show up first, then the cinnamon candy, then hints of Midori liqueur and kiwis. Buzzing along in a different direction, the palate offers white chocolate, limes, grapefruit bitters, and lots of bitterness, with a dash of ash in the back. It finishes with the graphite, sweet oranges, and a hint of tartness.

A bit crazier than this week's other Bimbers, this one works (possibly) because it didn't spend too many years in the vino de naranja casks. It's still a par-baked baby whisky, but it could have gone fugly in its adolescence. Like the best of us! Anyway, this is a cool curiosity bottled at a good strength.

Grade range: B- (around 81-83)

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Bimber USA release, Oloroso finish, cask #250/1, 342 bottles, 58.2%abv

A pleasant mix of oak spice, dried apricots, and dandelions greets the nose, followed by cinnamon candy and milk chocolate. As with actual oloroso, not much sweetness appears in the whisky's palate. Instead, salt, toasted mixed nuts, and nutmeg hold the foreground, with grapefruit behind. It finishes with dates, pistachios, and a tart touch.

Bimber picked a good oloroso (hoggie?) cask here and didn't overdo things, leading to my favorite Bimber so far. It's as close to a complete whisky as I've had from them. I would even consider approaching a bottle for near $100, though it's selling for 50-100% more.

Grade range: B-/B (around 83-85)

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I'll end this Bimber party on a high note. The one characteristic tying this trio together was cinnamon candy, a note I frequently find in some types of American white dog, which is telling. Bimber is very young whisky. It appears to be approaching some successful years, so I'll wait at least thirty moons before trying it again.

Bunch o' Bimbers, Part One

Okay, I'll try this again: I'm back! And I feel like I'm out of practice here, not with drinking whisky (because, yeah, there's whisky in Japan), but with typing up whisky reviews.

I'm going to review seven Bimber products this week. The pours were ~15mL, so I'm going to use grade ranges for each. To begin, here's one of the final paragraphs of my previous Bimber post:

I'm right where I was with early Kavalan and Wolfburn. These are ultra-young whiskies, no more, no less. Palates and preferences vary widely, but I'm again left wondering if some whiskies are graded on a steep curve because we want to see new distilleries succeed. We then lose our independence and turn into cheerleaders. But, ultimately, what good is that? The bar is lowered, clear-eyed standards vanish, and we (the drinkers) are left with countless single-digit aged whiskies selling for three-digits.

Having tasted a few Shizuokas while in Japan, I saw this issue arise again. Trying 3-4 year old whiskies satisfies an intellectual curiosity, but not much more. I hope Bimber, the much-hyped London distillery, can prove me wrong.

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Today, I have samples of three Bimber casks exclusive to the United States. The good folks of Columbus Scotch Night were able to source these for an in-person event in late 2021 when we'd thought Covid-19 was behind us. Lol 🙁.

One virgin oak cask, one bourbon cask, one sherry cask:

Bimber NAS, virgin oak cask #95, bottled in 2020, 253 bottles. 58.6%abv

The nose starts with a mix of bananas, kiwis, and pineapples, then shifts to flowers, cinnamon, and cracked pepper after a 20 minutes. Diluted to 46%abv, it's all bananas and cinnamon.

Barrel char, bananas, and lemon candy form the neat palate. But once reduced to 46%abv, the whisky tastes like barrel char and ginger powder.

It finishes very sweetly, like bourbon infused with bananas and lemon peels. At 46%abv, we're back to bananas and cinnamon.

When neat, the nose and its fruits worked well, but the palate was oddly flat. Adding water only worsened matters, turning this thingamabob into a British attempt at craft bourbon.

Grade range: C (around 74-76)

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Bimber NAS, ex-bourbon cask #154, bottled in 2020, 254 bottles, 59.1%abv

Again, the nose works: apricots, roses, eucalyptus, and lager. Once reduced to 46%abv, the whisky shifts a bit. Roses move ahead of the apricots, and confectioner's sugar appears in the background.

The floral and sweet palate, leans heavily on oak spice and coconut milk, growing very very sugary when diluted to 46%abv.

The finish has a good length to it, full of spices like cinnamon, cayenne, and nutmeg. At 46%abv, the bananas appear again, alongside the cayenne.

My favorite of the trio, this whisky's young nose shows off less cask influence than the other two, and the spices worked in the palate's favor. Again, the key is keeping it neat.

Grade range: B- (around 80-82)

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Bimber NAS, ex-sherry cask #45, bottled in 2020, 293 bottles, 58.9%abv

I know this smell. A newly opened box of Sunmaid black raisins. Maybe a few dried cherries too. But then things take on a gluey, sweaty sock character. At 46%abv, it smells of raisins and roses.

A curious palate, with raisiny cream sherry, bubblegum, ginger ale, and some bitterness in the background. Diluted to 46%abv, the palate becomes pruny sweet with a slight leafy bitterness.

The neat finish offers raisins in cream soda, while the diluted finale has prunes and tannins.

At least some weirdness keeps this from being one of the most generic sherried styles I've had in a long time. More weirdness and fewer prunes, please!

Grade range: C+ (around 78-79)

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Were these whiskies not $160-$200 per bottle, I'd say they could be interesting windows into par-baked products, but at that price the buyer deserves much more. Perhaps the bourbon cask was closest to a completed whisky. It was somewhere between 3 and 5 years old when bottled, so perhaps at 6-8 years it'd offer up a fresh take on single malt, but what's the price point going to be at that age?

This wasn't a great start, with that virgin oak cask being a unfortunate (though unsurprising) weak point. Gonna keep my hopes up, moderately, for Part Two.