Springbank 17 year old 2002 Madeira Cask Matured

I was going to call this week, W(h)ine Week! But I'll go a little commercial and call it Cask Exploration Week instead. There will be three Port Charlottes and two not-Port Charlottes.

To begin with, a Springbank. A semi-relevant Springbank at that. Bottled only six months ago, this Springer has a misleading name, "Madeira Cask Matured". One supposes they needed to call it something, and Cask Fuckery 2020 would be too all-encompassing of a title in this marketplace. It's a mix of of bourbon cask and rum cask Springbank that had a three-year secondary maturation in fresh Madeira hogsheads.

I've reviewed a few of these annual cask-y releases, like the Burgundy and Rum, finding them all falling short of the standard bottlings, but still pretty good. How about this one...?

Distillery: Springbank
Brand: Springbank

Owner: Springbank Distillers Ltd.
Region: Campbeltown, on Well Close, just off of Longrow

Age: 17 years (November 2002 - October 2020)

Maturation: bourbon casks + rum casks for 14 years, fresh Madeira hogsheads for 3 years
Outturn: 9200 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 47.8%
(from a bottle split)

NOTES

There's a swirl of fruity cask things going on at the start of the nose: tangerines, raspberry jam, anise and sugary rum. These elements team up to mute the peat. Hints of steel wool and dried thyme sneak out. Then there's a combination of wet concrete and bus fumes that triggers a sense memory of London, fourteen years ago. The anise note grows with time. The whisky is less fruity, more Campbeltown, once reduced to 43%abv. There's dirt, metal and engine grease. Just little bit of peach candy, apricots and molasses in the background.

The palate hits warmer than expected. It has some of the nose's fruit, but more industrial smoke. There's a little bit of butterscotch, cayenne and Hampden-style olives. It makes for very casual drinking, until it develops more ash and bitterness after 30 minutes. Reducing the whisky to 43%abv doesn't do it any favors. It's earthier but also bitterer, a woody bitterness that doesn't mix well with the lemon candy and fennel notes.

It finishes with sweet and tart oranges, cayenne pepper, copper and a touch of bitterness. Once reduced to 43%abv, the finish shows more tannins, while keeping the sweet citrus.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

I didn't realize I took so many notes on this one. It's an expressive whisky, but though it delivers a few unique notes, I can't say it tops any of the standard range, which is inexcusable considering its price. Perhaps Springbank has cursed itself with its excellent single malt. It can't top itself, especially by adding more casks. This isn't as grim of a situation as Ardbeg, since the annual Springbank limited releases have been consistently good. Again, this one continues the quality, but for the price of 3 or 4 10yos, or 2 or 3 12yo CSes, this should deliver more pyrotechnics.

Availability - Not sold out, yet
Pricing - $280-$400
Rating - 86

Port Charlotte Islay Barley 2008 versus Port Charlotte Islay Barley 2011

(Port Charlotte cluster homepage)

I've always preferred Port Charlotte's Islay Barley over their Scottish Barley whiskies. While the Scottish Barley release was in a standard rotation and is now extinct, the Islays had limited outturns, specific vintages and are still around, with the newest release, the 2012, appearing last year.

Islay Barley 2008, the version I know the best, had a number bottlings, from 2014 to 2016. Because the bottle lists no age, I'm not sure if that means this expression was released at multiple ages, or if it was put in steel to allow for a consistent gradual rollout. It seems as if its contents, distilled from the barley of six Islay farms, were aged solely or mostly in bourbon casks.

Islay Barley 2011 was released only in 2019 and has a six-year age statement. Its barley (Oxbridge and Publican) was harvested from three Islay farms, and its maturation was 75% first-fill bourbon casks and 25% second-fill Syrah and Figero wine casks. That wine is possibly not from Islay, but I digress.

I opened my second bottle of the 2008 last week and knocked the whisky line down about one-third of the way in the days leading up to this Taste Off. The 2008 always smells like an Islay kiln to me. This tasting will allow me to dig deeper than that.

Instead of buying a bottle of the 2011 blindly, I purchased a sample to try first. As you can see by the pic below, I chose to examine half of the sample before this Taste Off, such was my anticipation.

Engage.

NOTES

Port Charlotte 2008 Islay Barley, bottled 22.09.2016, 50%abv
(my bottle, one-third of the way down)

Compared to the Scottish Barley this is almost a different peat, not just a different grain source. There's a commingling of the outdoors and the industrial in the nose; herbs and leaves and moss and factory smokestack. Beneath the peat are green grapes and anise. Beneath that, hints of blueberry jam and butterscotch. Once the whisky is reduced to 43%abv, the nose shifts to stones, golden raisins and peated cookie dough.

Plumes of kiln smoke lead the palate, followed by sweet citrus and metal spoons. Bitter herbs and pickled ginger nip at the edges. Reducing the whisky to 43%abv turns the palate fruitier and sweeter. Pears and white peaches meet hay and lightly sooty smoke

The palate's kiln smoke rolls through the finish, where those small notes of ginger and bitter herbs ascend, and the sweet citrus regresses. At 43% the whisky finishes sooty with little bits of caramel sauce and dried herbs.

Port Charlotte 2011 Islay Barley, 2018 European release, 50%abv
(from a purchase sample)

The nose leads with sautéed dried herbs and lemon zest. Ginger juice, hot concrete and freshly cut grass. A befouled hay note starts at the rear (har har), and gradually moves forward with time. It remains grassy and farmy, once the whisky is diluted to 43%abv, while picking up a briny salty air note, a hint of watermelon Jolly Rancher in the background.

The palate's smoke carries a raspberry essence, then meets with bitter herbs and orange marmalade. It gets sootier with time. It's a nice mix, picking up a red wine-like tobacco note after a while. It actually gets tighter and harsher once the whisky is reduced to 43%abv. Fewer fruits, though there's a touch of grape jam. More bitter smoke.

Surprising activity in the finish: soot, cigarettes, sweet berries and cabernet sauvignon. Dilution to 43%abv doesn't help the finish, instead shining a spotlight on bitterness.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

I like 'em both! The 2008 reads heavier, while the 2011 has a bit of a smile to it. That may be due to the lack, and presence, of the wine casks. Where the current 10 year old's spirit blasts through the wine casks, the 2011 Islay wears its wine a little louder, but not too much. The 2008 is a hardy winter pour that can also stand up to some water. A proper time and place for the 2011 is more flexible, but dilution did it no good, much like Wednesday's two whiskies. I almost gave the 2011's verve the nod, but the 2008 is so stout and vivid that I'm just going to call it a tie.

SCORES SCORES SCORES

Port Charlotte 2008 Islay Barley - 87

Port Charlotte 2011 Islay Barley - 87 (neat only)

Port Charlotte An Turas Mor versus Port Charlotte Scottish Barley

(Port Charlotte cluster homepage)

An Turas Mor ("The Great Journey") was an official NAS Port Charlotte release from 2010 and 2012. It was replaced by the NAS Scottish Barley expression once Remy Cointreau bought Bruichladdich Distillery and its brands in 2013. Scottish Barley was itself replaced by the full-time 10 year old in 2018.

Today I'll compare these two former Port Charlotte standard NAS whiskies. To be honest, I've always preferred the flavor of the limited Islay Barley releases over these standards, but it's been many years since I've tried them. So I'll start the cluster here.

NOTES

Port Charlotte An Turas Mor, US release ca. 2012, 46%abv
(Thank you to JLR for the sample!)

The nose begins with grain, hay and Ardbeggy soot. A few minutes later, cinnamon, green bananas, burnt flour and burnt tires appear. Then comes kale and warm oregano. Okay, weed. Reducing the whisky to 40%abv tames the nose, resulting in notes of wood smoke, brown sugar, vanilla bean and pear.

Aromatic peat smoke and tangy oranges make up most of the simple palate. Grass, cinnamon and burnt plastic linger around the edges. Only bitter smoke, peppercorns and an aggressive sugariness remains once the whisky is diluted to 40%abv.

It finishes bitter and tangy, with smaller notes of pepper and plastic. When reduced to 40%abv, the whisky finishes bitterly and grassy with a little bit of salt.

Port Charlotte Scottish Barley, Europe release ca. 2017, 50%abv
(from a purchased sample)

Dried apricot and madeira meet cloves and moderate peat smoke in the nose. Notes of almond extract, confectioner's sugar and pound cake stay in the background. Diluting the whisky to 40%abv brings out mint extract and ocean notes. Circus peanuts, too. The smoke becomes simpler, muted.

The palate is lightly sweet and savory, with more of those tangy oranges. In fact the smoke itself reads tangy. A grassy bitterness grows with time. Reducing the whisky to 40%abv and......I think I killed it. It's just bitter smoke and peppercorns. Maybe some limes?

The finish's zing is more like chiles than peppercorns. Small bits of oranges, peat and bitterness here and there. Down at 40%abv there's only peat, heat and peppercorns in the finish.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

These are the politest Port Charlottes I've ever had, with nothing setting them apart from most other peated whiskies. Yes, they're accessible, as standard releases usually are, but they are also forgettable. If either of these is your first PC, you'll likely wonder what the big deal is.

An Turas Mor reads VERY young, even for a Port Charlotte. I believe it has all ex-bourbon cask components, which can be a good thing. In this case, it's left feeling like a work in progress (though not of Kilkerran quality). I can't believe I'm saying this but I wish some wine casks were involved.

I do believe wine casks, or some sort of non-bourbon cask elements, are at play in the Scottish Barley. Or at least the nose shouts as much. There's more going on in its palate, compared to An Turas Mor, but it still feels thinnish even at 50%abv.

These are fine. I expect more than "fine" from Port Charlotte.

SCORES SCORES SCORES

Port Charlotte An Turas Mor - 79

Port Charlotte Scottish Barley - 82

The Port Charlotte Cluster

My friend, Secret Agent Man, says Port Charlotte single malt "smells like a lobster fisherman's sweaty ass crack." And I say, "Yes. That is why I love it so."

How much do I love it? 24 new reviews worth. But not all at once this time. More on that later.

MOSTLY FACTS

Port Charlotte is an actual place, a port town on Loch Indaal, near the Rhinns of Islay on the western side of the island. A distillery, first called Port Charlotte, later Lochindaal, produced malt there for 100 years until DCL (a.k.a. Proto-Diageo; a.k.a Distillery-Destroyer and Occasional Whisky-Maker) closed it in 1929.

map source

Bruichladdich distillery, built two miles down the road in 1881, was shuttered in 1995 only to be bought and reopened by Murray McDavid five years later. The 40ppm-peated Port Charlotte malt had its first still run at Bruichladdich distillery in 2001. PC5, a 5 year old 63.5%abv fire-starter, arrived in 2006, starting off the official Port Charlotte releases. Independent bottlings began in 2007, and the first official ten year old appeared in 2012. Remy Cointreau bought Bruichladdich and its three whisky brands — Bruichladdich, Port Charlotte and Octomore — in 2013.

MOSTLY OPINIONS

Bruichladdich's Octomore has the record-breaking peat levels and distinct bottle design. It's a graceful behemoth when done well; e.g. the early .1s, the .3s, and the first 10 year old. Port Charlotte's single malt has one-fifth to one-third of the peat levels of Octomore, yet it is the more brutalist malt. It can be strange, jagged and stark, conjuring images of concrete and steel. Or maybe that's just happens inside my brain.

Bruichladdich's unpeated malt can be a bit wonky, sometimes cheesy and milky in a way that doesn't seem quite right. Adding a generous helping of peaty PPMs to the mix creates something different than most (or all) Islay malts, and improves upon the standard Bruichladdich style, in my opinion.

SWEETHEARTS

Much like Kilchoman (the previous cluster malt), Port Charlotte is part of that distinctive batch of new whiskies (which also include Kilkerran and Arran) that first appeared on the market when many of us were new to single malt mania. As a result, those four malts have had a special place in my whisky heart for over a decade. My preferred Arrans are in the 10-14 year old range, while the Work in Progress series has produced my favorite Kilkerrans. Kilchoman's progression is a mixed bag, as I discovered in the Kilchoman cluster, which I will link to again right here. Their current sherry cask releases can be very good, the 100% Islays seem to be improving, but I've found the standard bourbon cask bottlings to be slipping considerably.

THE CLUSTER SHAPE

Now I plan to complete 24 Port Charlotte whisky reviews for your very eyes. That's a lot of Port Charlotte to subject you to. And a lot for me drink.

A few of the Kilchoman Cluster weeks turned out to be less fun than I'd anticipated because the whisky's style was occasionally not varied or interesting enough, which put my Whisky Attention Deficit Disorder to the test. Rather than blanketing this space with nothing but PC for at least two months, there are a few other interesting whiskies I'd like to share with you. So I'm going to change the structure of this cluster:

The first and last weeks of this series will be 100% Port Charlotte. All the weeks in between will have non-Port Charlotte content of some sort. Also, the Taste Offs will be single posts rather than stretching them out across multiple days. AND, I may blow up this whole approach if it doesn't work. But don't worry, we'll make it.

from Barnard's The Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom

THE PORT CHARLOTTES

1. Port Charlotte An Turas Mor - "...a work in progress......I can't believe I'm saying this but I wish some wine casks were involved."

2. Port Charlotte Scottish Barley - "...accessible, as standard releases usually are, but......also forgettable."

3. Port Charlotte 2008 Islay Barley - "...a hardy winter pour that can also stand up to some water."

4. Port Charlotte 2011 Islay Barley - "...has a bit of a smile to it......wears its wine a little louder, but not too much."

5. Port Charlotte 8 year old 2007 CC:01 - "It's not terrible stuff, it's just very raw."

6. Port Charlotte 7 year old 2010 MRC:01 - "There was a path to make this single malt great, instead it is just loud."

7. Port Charlotte 9 year old 2010 OLC:01 - "Perhaps this is a Port Charlotte for people who don't like Port Charlotte?"

8. Port Charlotte 5 year old PC5 Evolution - "Startling in its violence"

9. Port Charlotte 6 year old PC6 Cuairt-Beatha - "..this is no longer just a work in progress, it's a complete whisky."

10. Port Charlotte 7 year old PC7 Sin An Doigh Ileach - "...this can stand up with the best Laphroaig 10yo CS and Lagavulin 12yo CS batches."

11. Port Charlotte 8 year old PC8 Ar Dùthchas - "...approaches the monolithic style of some Octomores, but the fruity moments and great nose lift it up."

12. Port Charlotte 10 year old PC10 Tro Na Linntean - "What was in that "American oak" before Port Charlotte was applied?"

13. Port Charlotte 12 year old PC12 Oileanach Furachail - "There may be a variety of casks at work here, but they come together very well..."

Assessing the cluster at the halfway point

14. Port Charlotte 12 year old 2003, sherry hogshead #863 (private cask) - "....one wonders if it was bottled at this age out of fear of a dropping abv, rather than the whisky being fully ready."

15. Port Charlotte 14 year old 2003, refill sherry hogshead #857 (private cask) - "I adore the way its elements work together, and how welcoming it is despite its high strength."

16. Port Charlotte 10 year old 2001 Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead #12039 - "Bigger and better than any of the Octomores I've tried."

17. Port Charlotte 11 year old 2001 Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead #13052 - "There's something very Islay about the nose......a very good early winter pour..."

18. Port Charlotte 13 year old 2002 Malts of Scotland, bourbon barrel #15011 - "...spirit-driven......this whisky reads the youngest [of the three MoS casks]..."

19. Port Charlotte 14 year old Batch 7, That Boutique-y Whisky Company - "it's not oak soup nor sherry soup nor mezcal soup.....it's a good cask that was bottled at the right time..."

20. Port Charlotte 14 year old 2004 Dramfool for Feis Ile 2019 - "...a great example of a fun, loud Port Charlotte that is not 63+%abv."

21. Port Charlotte 15 year old 2001 Dramfool, cask 0847 - "...familiar and very good, yet also indistinguishable from other Islays."

22. Port Charlotte 16 year old 2002 Dramfool, cask 243 - "Yeah, I'm okay with this......Well done, you Dramfools."

23. Port Charlotte 16 year old 2003 for Feis Ile 2020 - "This the oakiest Port Charlotte I've ever had."

24. Port Charlotte 16 year old 2001 Archives, cask 278 - "it's two different whiskies at 46%abv and 59.7%abv, and both versions are throughly enjoyable......Quality + flexibility!"

Concluding the Cluster

Mathilda and Papa Eat Kit Kats, Episode Six

 The sixth in a series of relevant tasting notes: 

Ardbeg 17 year old 1994 Murray McDavid Mission Gold

Hey, another Murray McSerious! How about that? I won't tell you how long this sample was burning a hole in its box, but those who remember the original whiskysamples.eu know well enough. I tried this one next to Wednesday's terrific MMcD Ardbeg.

Distillery: Ardbeg
Owners at time of distilling: Allied Lyons
Region: Southern Islay

Bottler: Murray McDavid

Brand: Mission Gold
Maturation: bourbon cask (hoggie?)
Age: 17 years (1994 - 2011)

Outturn: 305 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 56.5%
(from a purchased sample)

NOTES

The nose has a machine shop note, full of hot metals and synthetic oils. It's youthful without being raw. There are cardamom pods, basil leaves, brown sugar and a zippy chile note. The peat reads much gentler than that of the LVMH Ardbeg spirit. It opens further after 45 minutes, with roses and Fig Newtons. Diluted down to 46%abv, it goes toasty, floral, yeasty and slightly peachy. Some basil and honey in the background.

Similar but slightly different than the 18yo, a distinct blueberry pie note appears early in the palate. It's peatier and mintier than the nose, and there's some mildly bitter molasses. At 46%abv the whisky reads simple and focused, with toasted grains and toasted nuts, soot and a hint of bitterness.

Soot and cigar smoke make up much of the finish, with quieter tangy and herbal notes in the distance. When reduced to 46%abv, the finish matches the palate.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

That's one looooooong year of difference between the two MMcD Ardbegs. And, yes, a completely different cask. This is still a great whisky, and some folks may even enjoy it more than the 18yo. But the pirouette the 18yo pulls with dilution puts it over the top. This 17yo feels of a similar age to the Allied-distilled 10 year olds (one of which I tried with this as well), but this malt reads more industrial and herbal, which is a big plus for me. A good week indeed.

Availability - ???
Pricing - ???
Rating - 88

Ardbeg 18 year old 1993 Murray McDavid Mission Gold

I have said unkind things about Murray McDavid in the past. But I come here hoping to praise MMcD, not to bury it. When they don't play drunken games with their wine casks, instead of letting a whisky just be, the results can be great. The results can also be disappointing but we're not going to talk about that.

Here's an 18 year old Ardbeg, distilled by Allied Lyons and aged entirely in a bourbon cask (likely a hogshead). Good elements here.

Distillery: Ardbeg
Owners at time of distilling: Allied Lyons
Region: Southern Islay

Bottler: Murray McDavid

Brand: Mission Gold
Maturation: bourbon cask
Age: 18 years (1993 - 2011)

Outturn: 245 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 56.9%
(from a purchased sample)

NOTES

The nose begins with chalk and earth, and hints of mangoes and smoked fish. The rich peat reads more toasted than burnt. Notes of mint leaves, baked apples and figs(!) gradually appear. It gains an iodine note after 45 minutes. Something fascinated happens once the whisky is reduced to 46%abv, it turns into Hampden rum, full of olives and diesel. Smaller notes of rosemary, pine and fermenting apples fill out the background.

Heavy salty and medicinal notes meet berry pie filling in the palate, and it works. Bitter orange peels and lemon juice arrive as the whisky opens with time. The palate goes Hampden when diluted to 46%abv as well. Olives, diesel and butterscotch.

It finishes with salt, chiles and limes. Quite some length to it. The reduced-to-46%abv version matches the diluted nose and palate.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

When you hear much-experienced whisky drinkers make the "X is the new Ardbeg" comparison, I'm pretty sure this Ardbeg hints at what they're talking about. It's a reductive statement, and there are now a few whisky generations who haven't had higher-tier Ardbeg, but I can see how it works and can understand the comparison. As noted above, this single malt goes Ardbeg → Hampden. And it's excellent on both sides of the arrow. It must have been a great pleasure to consume a bottle of this.

Speaking of reductive:

Availability - ???
Pricing - ???
Rating - 90