...where distraction is the main attraction.

Wednesday, August 8, 2018

Glenlossie 18 year old 1992 Signatory, cask 3329 for Binny's

Yeesh, that last 'Lossie was lame. Let us now turn to the often reliable Signatory for what should be something considerably better. Historically (read: in my experience), the Binny's crew makes good Scotchy picks too.

Of course, this Glenlossie is even less relevant than yesterday's, as it was bottled five months earlier than that one. And sold out sooner.

Distillery: Glenlossie
Ownership: Diageo
Independent Bottler: Signatory
Age: 18 years (November 16, 1992 - June 5, 2011)
Maturation: hogshead
Cask#: 3329
Outturn: 280 bottles
Alcohol by Volume: 58%
Chillfiltered? No
Caramel Colorant? No
Exclusive to: Binny's
(Thanks to Florin for the sample from, like, years ago)

NEAT
The nose leads with melon, roses, lemons and grapefruit. Crayons and scented markers in the mid-ground. After a while, the fresh fruit smells drift toward artificial scratch-n-sniff fruit smells. Then in comes a hint of soap and bitter ash. The palate is extra limey. Then mild sweetness, ginger, crayon wax and the expected heat from its ABV. It finishes floral and gingery with very tart citrus.

DILUTED TO 46%abv, or 1.5tsp per 30mL whisky
The nose balances flowers, fruity candy and toasted coconut. But then, in rolls the cardboard. The palate has more vanilla and coconut to go along with the lime. It's sweeter and bitterer. Some paper and wax. The finish has become very sweet, along with a mix of tart citrus and cardboard. This results in a strange aftertaste.

That took a weird turn. How about some more water?

DILUTED TO 40%abv, or 2.75tsp per 30mL whisky
Lemon zest, notebook paper and ink on the nose. Vanilla, sugar, soap and vinegar sourness on the palate. Sweet and sour finish. Also soap.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
I spent nearly two hours with this whisky (and Friday's whisky), which in hindsight was not the best idea because this Glenlossie seems averse to air and water. It was on its best behavior right up front. So I'd recommend appreciating it as a small pour in less than 20 minutes. After that, son, you're on your own.

Does anyone out there actually have an unopened bottle of this? Were US Americans madly hoarding more whisky than they could drink back in 2011? I have a feeling this review is for no one.

Echo.
Echo. 
Echo.
Echo.

Availability - Exclusive at Binny's during Obama's first term
Pricing - ???
Rating - 82 (but don't wait, don't dilute!)

Tuesday, August 7, 2018

Glenlossie Week: 11 year old 2000 Duncan Taylor Dimensions

Glenlossie Week continues with a release that's about as old as the first whisky review on this website. It's so old that the Dimensions series was still affordable when it was released. Actually the bottle is still for sale at some continental European stores, so that doesn't bode tremendously well.

Like this week's other three Glenlossies, it was aged in American oak. Due to its color, I'd bet it was a refill cask. That could be good. That could also be not good.


Distillery: Glenlossie
Ownership: Diageo
Region: Speyside (Lossie)
Bottler: Duncan Taylor
Series: Dimensions
Age: 11 years old (2000 - 2011)
Maturation: a 🙁cask
Alcohol by Volume: 46%
(Thank you to Tetris for donating this MoM sample to D4P Laboratories!)

NEAT
Its color is very pale. The nose starts off with an odd combo of white mezcal, raisins and yeast. After 10 minutes that mezcal note goes straight to Cuervo Gold. Then apples and Dove soap. The palate starts with sugar and raw heat. It has a cheap blend sourness and bite. Then comes the soap and perfume. It finishes with sugar, perfume, sourness and bitterness.

DILUTED TO ~40%abv, or <1tsp water per 30ml whisky
The nose ditches most of the Cuervo Gold. Picks up a little bit of stone fruit, moss and plastic. Maybe some barley. The palate gets buttery and biscuity, with some lemon. But then comes the agave/tequila thing, which expands and expands with time. The finish is the same as the palate, with extra bitter ash.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
I've previously had issues with Dimension whiskies, in that they lack, well, dimensions. But this is pretty horrible when neat, like some prank combo of Johnnie Walker Red and Cuervo and dish soap. It's better with water, at first very much so. But then the cheap tequila thing barges in. And that's when I decide not to finish the sample.

Style-wise, it bears no relation to the other three Glenlossies this week. While there's a possibility that the sample could be tainted in some way, I think it's much more likely that the cask was dead dead dead. It has wrung awful compounds into the spirit, rather than filtering awful compounds out. So though it reads like 3 or 4 year old whisky, the problem isn't the youth. The problem is bad whisky.

Availability - It can be found in Europe if you are so inclined
Pricing - Too much if not free
Rating - 68 (with water only, 10 points worse when neat)

Monday, August 6, 2018

Glenlossie Week: 17 year old 1997 Hepburn's Choice for K&L Wine Merchants

Hooray, it's GLENLOSSIE WEEK! If I lost you with that statement, then, well, you wouldn't have clicked to read this post anyway. So. Welcome, friends!

You may (not) be asking, "Michael, it's your birthday month. Do you really want to review four Glenlossies in a row?" The answer is, "yes". I've planned a Glenlossie week five times in the past two years and it keeps getting pushed off for something flashier. Like Auchroisk.

I've referenced today's whisky once before. At a Malt Nuts event two years ago, I tried eight Mannochmores. And, as it turned out, the second best Mannochmore was a Glenlossie.

To wit: Glenlossie and Mannochmore exist on the same plot of land. They're owned by the same folks (Haig, then UDV, then Diageo). Glenlossie is 95 years older but has a much smaller capacity than its conjoined sibling. Neither were deemed worthy of the Classic Malts series, so Diageo's only official releases of these Lossie distilleries was the Flora & Fauna collection. We have to go the indie bottlers to explore Glenlossie, and that's what I'm doing this week.

Today's Glenlossie was from a single hoggie bottled under Hunter Laing's Hepburn Choice label for K&L Wine and Spirits back in 2015. It sat on the shelf for so long that they dropped the price to $69.99. At that point I scooped up a bottle for a private whisky event.

Distillery: Glenlossie
Ownership: Diageo
Region: Speyside (Lossie)
Independent Bottler: Hunter Laing
Label: Hepburn's Choice
Exclusive to: K&L Wine Merchants
Age: 17 years (1997 - 2015)
Maturation: refill hogshead
Bottles: 281
Alcohol by Volume: 55.4%
Chillfiltered? No
Caramel Colorant? No

NEAT
Its color is light gold. The nose starts with honey, lemons, cinnamon, yeast and creamy ale. After 20+ mins in the glass, the whisky releases candy corn and circus peanut notes that nearly take over the whole thing. The palate has some heat, but it's more chili oil than ethanol. It's sweet and creamy. There are dates and lemon juice. Hints of vanilla and sandalwood. A soft malty undercurrent runs throughout. Chili oil heat spices up the long finish. Ah there's the nose's lemon and honey; the palate's sandalwood. A whipped cream and vanilla trifle.

DILUTED TO ~46%abv, or 1.25tsp of water per 30mL whisky
The nose's candy notes expand. Vanilla marshmallows and green apples jump in. The palate is quite similar to the nose now, with all that candy. A bit of a tart bite keeps things somewhat in control. With time, vanilla and bitter oak slip in. It finishes sweet and tart. The vanilla and bitter oak arrive late.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
This is a sweetie through and through. It's not the full on winner I thought it was two years ago, mostly because the oak gets more overactive than one would expect from a refill cask. Jordan of Chemistry of the Cocktail (whom I actually split part of the bottle with, totally forgot about that), found the oak pretty aggressive.

But maybe because I tried it next to a far inferior whisky (to be reviewed next), there was still some thrill to this Glenlossie; mostly in the nose. It worked best for me without dilution, as water brought out the oak. If you missed out on this bottling when its price dropped, I wouldn't worry too much. Yes, one can't find single cask 17yo whisky for $70 anymore, but a great deal doesn't equal great whisky.

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - had its price dropped to $69.99
Rating - 84 (neat only)

Friday, August 3, 2018

Killing Whisky History, Episode 15 - Seagram's V.O. 6yo 1962, for Grandpa Milton

My father's father passed away before I was born. A blue-collar worker for more than 40 years, Milton preferred opera on the radio over going to the movies. He only turned on the TV to watch baseball. And he drank one thing, Seagram's V.O.


Wednesday, August 1, 2018

Oban Cask Strength, Distillery Only (2010 bottling)

Diageo's single malt-only approach with the distillery is nice touch, but at the same time it's very frustrating because every version of Oban that hits the market sits at 43%abv. And there are no indie bottlings. So Oban's potential remains unexplored.

A rare exception to this situation was the 2013 official release of a cask strength 21 year old. That the whisky was very good was unsurprising. That the whisky cost more than twice what'd I be willing to pay for it was also unsurprising. As I mentioned in the comments of my review, the 21yo made me wish that Diageo had released something bolder than Little Bay when it came time for an NAS.

The only other way to get full strength official Oban is through a Distillery Only bottling, though they appear to produce these infrequently. Here's one that was bottled back in 2010.


Distillery: Oban
Ownership: Diageo
Region: Western Highlands
Age: ???
Maturation: probably American oak
Release year: 2010
Outturn: 8999 bottles
Alcohol by Volume: 55.2%
Chillfiltered? Probably not
Caramel Colorant? Yes
(from a purchased sample)

NEAT
To keep with the distillery character, the whisky's color is DiageoGold™. The nose has duos of lemons + brine and nectarines + mint. Smaller notes of flowers and incense float about. The palate is hotter than the nose and needs a lot of air before distinct notes appear. It's big on minerals, milder on bitterness and sweets. Tart lemons and grapefruits. A bit grassy. Minerals and heat continue into the finish, joining hints of fruit and flowers.

DILUTED TO ~46%abv, or 1.25tsp of water per 30mL whisky
The nose now has a savory side; think mushrooms and dried cheese. Fresh whole wheat bread, roasted nuts, honey and shisha. Moments of lemon zest and vanilla bean as well. The palate becomes sweeter, creamier and more approachable as well. Notes of honey and whipped cream don't pull it too far in one direction because the minerals and grass are still there, as well as a better bitterness. Sweetness, as is its habit, fades before long, and is nearly absent in the finish. A subtle smoky note also carries a peppery zing. Some herbal bitterness lingers.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
The nose is a complete joy, a good riff on a rich style of Highland malt. Meanwhile the palate dishes out a more austere(!) version of Highlands whisky, lean and rocky. The nose wins with or without water, but the palate requires dilution to unearth an additional dimension. It's fun to try Oban in a different form and I wish there were more options. Currently there's a 2018 Oban Distillery Exclusive bottling that comes from "rejuvenated" casks. Someday perhaps Diageo will take this distillery more seriously.

Availability - Secondary market?
Pricing - ???
Rating - 86

Monday, July 30, 2018

Oban Little Bay

What Oban Little Bay is, other than an NAS release that costs nearly the same as the 14 year old release, is a little vague. Here are descriptions from industry sites:

1. the whisky "rests" in "small oak casks for some time"
2. finished in "small oak casks"
3. "aged in part in smaller casks"
4. married in "200-litre ex-bourbon barrels"
5. refill American oak hogsheads, European oak Sherry casks and refill casks with new ends
6. official site: nothing

The first three items say basically the same thing, while the next two say something potentially much different. And then good ol' Diageo doesn't help at all. There seems to be a whole lotta talk about Oban taking a mix of #5 and then giving it a #2 (er, item number two, above). There's no mention of what "small cask" means, but if it's just ex-bourbon barrels (per #4) then it's not a big deal, nor unusual, nor should the end result be as aggressively oaky as a quarter cask or octave finish. It still seems as if plenty of carpentry (or cooperage) was involved.

I guess plaudits should go out to Diageo for not spinning some malarkey about the story behind the whisky, which is an almost revolutionary act at this point in time. And there's no Gaelic surname. Since Oban means "Little Bay", it's just Oban Squared.

sample generously provided by St. Brett P.
Distillery: Oban
Ownership: Diageo
Region: Western Highlands
Age: ???
Maturation: see the introductory paragraphs
Alcohol by Volume: 43%
Chillfiltered? Uh huh
Caramel Colorant? Yarp

Why does Diageo color the Obans so aggressively? This one is orange. The nose doesn't start off promising. Mostly vanilla and cardboard. Slowly, notes of hay and dried apricots ease in. Then honey, orange candy, simple syrup and gummi bears. And paper. And flowers. Acidic citrus dominates the otherwise very sweet palate. A little bit of milk chocolate and cayenne pepper. Vanilla, ginger, toasted oak spices, caramel and vanilla. And there's the hint of cardboard. The finish has the same acidity, as well as the sugar and caramel. Toasted coconut and black pepper. Vanilla.

Oban Little Bay reads like a blend, albeit a blend at 1/3rd Little Bay's price range. It probably works best as a dessert whisky. American oak casks flavor the whole thing, but never go bitter. Still the paper and cardboard notes are unfortunate. I'd say more, but it looks like MAO covered this same ground three months ago. While this whisky was probably aimed at blend fans, it comes across like another NAS that's so oaky it barely resembles its distillery mates.

Availability - most specialty whisky retailers
Pricing - $50-$80, though some US retailers are offering it for $40 or less, a fate similar to Talisker Storm
Rating - 78

Friday, July 27, 2018

Blackadder Peat Reek Raw Cask, batch PR2017-5


I'd always thought Blackadder's Peat Reeks were from Islay. And I was wrong. Batch PR 2017-5 was sourced from The Highlands. While my sample of Wednesday's Peat's Beast came from the LA Scotch Club, today's sample of Peat Reek Raw Dog is from the Columbus Scotch Club. My guess was that Peat's Beast was sourced from Benriach, this Reek could be from a number of distilleries due its violent youth.

Partaking in both peated whiskies while watching the All Star game, I was surprised by which of the whiskies I enjoyed more.


Company: Blackadder
Brand: Peat Reek
Type: Single Malt
Distillery: somewhere in The Highlands
Age: NAS
Maturation: refill American oak, probably
Batch: PR2017-5
Alcohol by Volume: 59.9%
Chillfiltered? No
Color added? No
Barrel schmutz in the bottle? Yes

NEAT
Caramel, butter and salt in the nose. More floral and ocean-y than medicinal. Sugary peat. Peach-scented hand lotion. The palate is hot, chalky, green and tart. Ginger, charred meat and eucalyptus. Grows sweeter and bitterer with time. The hotter, smokier finish is lightly tart and very drying. The sweetness gets aggressive after a while.

DILUTED TO 46%abv, or <2tsp of water per 30mL whisky
The nose now has some plums, but also soap. Ash and mild peat. Vanilla, eucalyptus and berry candy. Meanwhile, the palate works better at this strength. Less sweetness. A fruitier tartness (if that makes sense). Chocolate. Lime marshmallows. The finish seems longer. It has the lime marshmallow sweetness and a little bit of smoke.

WORDS WORDS WORDS
Not enjoyable when neat, this batch of Peat Reek is a better drinker once diluted. But I wasn't crazy about the nose with or without dilution.  There's not much more to write about, other than this was my first Peat Reek and I'm not inspired to try another batch. It's not really peaty and it's par-baked. Was there such demand for this series that another batch needed to be rushed?

Availability - Europe and Asia
Pricing - from $70 to $100 WHY WOULD ANYONE PAY $100 FOR THIS?
Rating - 74