Four MGP Ryes and Two Judges

The Two Judges, my much better half and I:

Not pictured: Willett

The four MGP ryes:
--Single Cask Nation's MGP 8 year old Rye, barrel #52
--Smooth Ambler Old Scout 7 year old Rye, barrel #849 for K&L
--Redemption 7 year old Barrel Proof Rye, batch 6
--Willett 6 year old Family Estate Single Barrel Rye, barrel #122

With this being Kristen's birthday week I elected to review this string of MGP barrel proof rye.  Why?  Because my wife and I both enjoy the stuff.  And I'm not sure if I can say that about many (or any) other whiskies.  Before I did my four tastings, Kristen tried them (via small pours mind you, because damn) all side by side and ranked them by preference.  Here are her notes:

Kristen's notes:
Single Cask Nation's MGP 8 year old Rye, barrel #52 -- "Smells a little industrial, or am I influenced by the sample label's typeface?  Unremarkable overall."  RANK: 4

Smooth Ambler Old Scout 7 year old Rye, barrel #849 for K&L -- "Burns longer on the tongue. Cinnabon, is that you?"  RANK: 2

Redemption 7 year old Barrel Proof Rye, batch 6 -- "Burns longer in the back of the throat. A little hotter than I'd like."  RANK: 3

Willett 6 year old Family Estate Single Barrel Rye, barrel #122 -- "Least hot. Smoothest. Smell is vegetal. Cilantro?"  RANK: 1

"On my birthday I'll drink champagne! :)"

Yes you will, my dear.

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So since she's always right, how did I fare?  Here's a summary of my reviews.  For the full reports click the links.  And because I'm silly, I gave these whiskies scores.  Anyway...

Michael's notes:
Single Cask Nation's MGP 8 year old Rye, barrel #52 -- "...very hot and difficult at full strength.  In fact, I didn't want to drink anymore of it while doing this tasting."; "...soooooper woody"; "...adding water...cleaned [it] up reasonably well."
Score: 80, though much lower without added water. -- RANK: 4

Smooth Ambler Old Scout 7 year old Rye, barrel #849 for K&L -- "I wouldn't say this Old Scout is very complex, nor markedly better than the former regular 7yo release, but it's reliable as heck.  Could set your watch to it, as the old saying goes."
Score: 87 -- RANK: 2

Redemption 7 year old Barrel Proof Rye, batch 6 -- "This isn't as much of an immediate hit as the Old Scout, but it's close."; "...a little young and rough at times, thus less 'smooth'"; "...the nose is great and the palate is perfectly acceptable, but I do wish there was more going on in the finish. "
Score: 85 -- RANK: 3

Willett 6 year old Family Estate Single Barrel Rye, barrel #122 -- "...in a different league than the other three ryes this week"; "...most exotic nose I've ever experienced on a rye"; "The palate...takes on different personalities...remains totally in balance throughout. The finish brings in new characteristics and flexes plenty of stamina."
Score: 90 -- RANK: 1

On her birthday, I'll drink champagne.  But then it's back to whisky in the morning.

---

Well, we agreed.  Which is good.  So, if you won't take my whiskey word for it, listen to the lady.  We've both always loved our Willett ryes, but we've also really enjoyed the Old Scout stuff (including the bourbon single barrels).  On such things historic eternal relationships are based.  Happy Birthday, Kristen!

NOT Single Malt Report: Willett 6 year old Family Estate Single Barrel #122

And then there was Willett.  Of course there was going to be a Willett.  This is Diving for Pearls, so you can be sure of three things when you visit this site.  One, I'll give Single Pot Still Irish whiskeys ridiculously high scores.  Two, I'll bitch about all prices all the time.  Three, there will be Willett.

Once upon a time (as recently as two years ago), Willett Family Estate Single Barrel ryes were 4-6 years old, bottled at 55%abv, and were priced from $40-$55.  At the height of their popularity these regular releases were replaced by barrel proof versions, aged 6-8 years, and priced from $80-$200.  I remember the first time I saw a 7yo Willett selling for $129.99.  I came home and told my wife, "Willett has arrived."  It was now priced for "collectors", or rich dumb shits, or I don't know.  Now considered to be in the same realm as the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection, Elijah Craig Barrel Proof, and Weller 12, these single barrel Willetts are priced far from the grasp of the original fans.  Much of this has to do with retailers bloating prices.  But it does seem as if the suggested retail prices are as follows: 6yo - $80; 7yo - $90; 8yo - $120.  I bought one six and two sevens, spending more than I ever have (and probably ever will) for an American whiskey, and then I bid Willett adieu.  I covered all of this better in a post last year.

This is my bottle of one of the 6 year old single barrels.  I opened it this winter because we were repeatedly told that El Niño was going to open up the skies and everyone in California needed to build an ark.  And nothing is better than sitting next to a crackling fireplace, sipping Willett with someone you love, while rain thrums against the roof.  So open the bottle we did!  And then it never rained.

Bottler: Kentucky Bourbon Distillers (also known as Willett Distilling Company)
Brand: Willett Family Estate Single Barrel
Type: Straight Rye Whiskey

Age: 6 years

Maturation: New American Oak

Region: Bardstown, Kentucky (Distilled in Lawrenceburg, Indiana)
Barrel: 122
Bottle: no info listed

Alcohol by Volume: 58.2%

The last of the four MGP ryes this week, this is the only one that actually came from my stash.  Specifically, this pour came from about the midpoint.  No water was added

The nose is remarkably fruity at first.  Lots of musty overripe tropical fruits and orange oil.  Toasted oak and toasted almonds arise from underneath eventually taking over, mingling with smaller notes of mint, caramel, and vanilla bean.  With 20+ minutes in the glass, the rye grows darker (if something can smell darker). Burnt bacon and wood smoke notes meet arugula and jalapeños.

Enormous pepper and dill notes are balanced out by brown sugar and dark cherry sweetness in the palate.  Sometimes there's a bright fresh note like lemon-cucumber water, but then that's swooped away by raspberry-syrup-filled dark chocolate.  With time the pepper note moves from black corns to cayenne.  Things get a little earthy and bitter, though again it's met with a fruity sweetness.

In the finish there's toffee and bubblegum, but also peppercorns and a slight herbal bitterness.  Some dark cherry syrup.  Marzipan and mint.  A rye seed or two.  Tremendous length.

COMMENTS:
You know, I'd prepared this whole screed about how this was not only not worth the $200 prices dumb retailers are selling it for, but that it wasn't even worth the $80 I'd paid for it.  But, it is worth the $80 I paid for it.  This whiskey, like a number of Willetts before it, has the It Factor.  It's in a different league than the other three ryes this week, though two of them were quite good.  Is it better than the the ol' $45 4 year olds?  Possibly not.  But if one takes quality into account, those 4yos were underpriced (gasp! I said it!).  Other than the BTAC Thomas H. Handy releases, there was no comparable rye on the market back then, and those THHs started at $80.  Is this whiskey worth $200?  NOPE.  That's not an insult.  This is the first time I've found a contemporary American whiskey to be worth nearly $100.

So, what is this It Factor?  It begins with the most exotic nose I've ever experienced on a rye, but then the nose progresses, developing into new angles, never drifting too oaky or spirity.  The palate also takes on different personalities, but also remains totally in balance throughout.  The finish brings in new characteristics and flexes plenty of stamina.  I have no idea how the Kulsveens do this, but they do it.

Tomorrow, I'll reveal what my wife though of these four ryes, and if we need the UN to help sort out the ensuing conflict.

Availability - This barrel may have sold out, but there are other 6yo Willet ryes out there
Pricing - I bought this one for $79.99, but have seen other 6s selling north of $100
Rating - 90

NOT Single Malt Report: Redemption 7 year old Barrel Proof Rye, batch 6

On Monday, it was Single Cask Nation's single MGP barrel.  On Tuesday, it was one of K&L's exclusive Smooth Ambler MGP barrels.  Today, it's a small(?) batch of barrel proof MGP rye bottled by Redemption, a Bardstown Barrel Selections brand.

Redemption also has a regular 46%abv MGP rye release without an age statement (though I think it's two years old).  They have two different MGP-distilled bourbons as well.  So basically, no MGP would mean no Redemption.  And Redemption, much like Smooth Ambler and Willett, publicly recognizes their product's source and correctly lists "Distilled in Indiana" on their labels.

Today's sample comes to us courtesy of the generosity of Mr. Sku of Recent Eats fame.

Brand: Redemption
Company: Bardstown Barrel Selections (with the barest of bare bones website)
Type: Straight Rye Whiskey

Age: 7 years

Maturation: New American Oak

Region: Distilled in Lawrenceburg, Indiana
Mashbill: 95% rye, 5% malted barley
Batch: 6

Alcohol by Volume: 61.3%

For comparison purposes, I tried this rye side-by-side with yesterday's single barrel 7yo Old Scout rye.  No water was applied to either.

The nose is much closer to the Old Scout than the SCN barrel.  Cinnamon bread and carrot cake lead off, then a little bit of whole grain mustard.  There's some rumbly rye spirit throughout, though it's not hot, considering the ABV.  A hint of rye bread and dill.  Bits of plaster and vinyl.  Maybe some dried cheese.  A nice late hit of cloves arrives later on.

Spices in the palate.  Cassia cinnamon, ginger powder, and cardamom.  Then vanilla, maraschino cherries, and a little bit of black pepper.  Robotussin.  Grape juice (weird).  It's plenty sweet and a little warmer than the nose, but still very palatable.

It finishes with black cherry soda, cayenne pepper, tart berries, and some sharp young rye stuff.  The sweetness mellows out.

COMMENTS:
This isn't as much of an immediate hit as the Old Scout, but it's close.  It can be a little young and rough at times, thus less "smooth", yet it's still fun if one's up for an adventure.  I'm always down for some excitement.  For me, the nose is great and the palate is perfectly acceptable, but I do wish there was more going on in the finish.  If this was priced in the $50-$60 range, I'd get a bottle.  But it's up in the $80-$90 range, so I'll leave it on the shelf for someone else.

Availability - Many specialty liquor retailers in the US
Pricing - usually $80-$90, though some places on the East Coast have it closer to $70
Rating - 85

NOT Single Malt Report: Smooth Ambler Old Scout 7 year old Rye, barrel #849 for K&L Wines

If you're new to American whiskies, here's the scoop with this rye.  Smooth Ambler is a whiskey company based in West Virginia.  Though they're distilling their own spirit right now -- and bottling some of it -- they started their business by bottling rye and bourbon that was actually distilled by Midwest Grain Products (MGP) in Indiana.  This was their "Old Scout" brand.  Their MGP rye was a 7 year old, released in batches assembled from a number of barrels, and bottled at 49.5%abv.  Occasionally they also released barrel proof single barrels of rye (and bourbon).  And sometimes they sold those barrels exclusively through specific retailers.  From what I've read, they've started to run short on all those rye barrels.  In the meantime, they're focusing on releasing their own whiskey.

The rye whiskey I'm reviewing today (7 years old, barrel 849) was one of the MGP single barrels that was sold only through one retailer, in this case K&L Wine Merchants.  I foolishly(?) missed out on securing one of K&L's single Old Scout rye barrels, but luckily Whisky Man Florin did not.  So, many thanks to Florin for this sample.

Brand: Old Scout
Bottler: Smooth Ambler
Type: Straight Rye Whiskey

Age: 7 years

Maturation: New American Oak

Region: Maxwelton, West Virginia (Distilled in Lawrenceburg, Indiana)
Mashbill: 95% rye, 5% malted barley
Retailer: K&L Wine Merchants
Barrel: 849

Alcohol by Volume: 61.7%

For comparison purposes, I tried this rye side-by-side with the SCN rye from yesterday's review.  No water was applied to either.

There's gentler oak and much less ethyl on the nose of this rye compared to that of the SCN rye.  It starts with caramel sauce and salty air.  Then cinnamon and loads of whole cloves.  With time in the glass, the whiskey develops sizable notes of vanilla fudge and cream soda.

Entirely drinkable at this ABV.  The palate starts off peppery and briney, but also has a good dose of brown sugar and snickerdoodle cookies.  Some spearmint leaves too.  A nice bitter bite around the edges, with mulled wine in the middle.  It develops a little bit of a fizzy bitter lemon note after a while.

Caramel, brown sugar, and spearmint in the finish.  A bit more of a spicy zing with time.  And then molasses.  The mint leaves soon turn to mint candy.

COMMENTS:
It's as if this isn't even remotely related to yesterday's whiskey.  I wouldn't say this Old Scout is very complex, nor markedly better than the former regular 7yo release, but it's reliable as heck.  Could set your watch to it, as the old saying goes.  Even with all the alcohol and years of oak, it isn't a palate wrecker like the SCN.  Thank goodness.  If you have a bottle of barrel 849 in your stash, there's no need to hoard it for eternity.  Bust it out the next time you want some fulfilling big rye.  Meanwhile, the rest of us will be without.  :(  Enjoy!

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - $54.99
Rating - 87

NOT Single Malt Report: Single Cask Nation's MGP 8 year old Straight Rye, cask #52

My wife likes MGP-distilled rye, I like MGP-distilled rye, and we have the folks at Willett to thank for that.  But Willett is far from the only company that ages and bottles whiskey from Midwest Grain Products WonderFactory™.  In honor of my wife's birthday, I will review four MGP ryes from four different companies this week.  She actually had first dibs on all of these, and she provided her own notes and rankings.  On Friday, after my reviews are complete, I'll reveal her rankings and compare our findings.

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First up:  A single barrel of 8 year old MGP rye bottled by Single Cask Nation.  This sample arrived via a swap with my friend Linda who has provided me with a number of great (or at least entertaining!) American whiskey samples recently.  She prefers bourbon over rye, but she and her husband, Brett (with whom I swap scotch samples), are SCN members and are happy to try all sorts of whiskies.  Thanks, Linda!

Distiller: Midwest Grain Products
Bottler: Single Cask Nation
Type: Straight Rye Whiskey
Region: Lawrenceburg, Indiana
Age: 8 years
Mashbill: 95% rye, 5% malted barley
Maturation: New American oak
Cask: 52
Limited bottling: 131

Alcohol by Volume: 60.9%

NEAT
The nose is sooooper woody.  As in pulp and bark.  Underneath that it's salty, buttery, and briney.  Next, there's dried cheese, pickles, and something slightly eggy.  Distant dark fruit notes mingle with halvah.  With time, it develops varnish, coconut hand lotion, and fresh oregano notes.

The palate is pretty darn hot.  But there are more familiar rye notes here than in the nose.  Definitely some dill.  Cherry popsicles, marzipan, caramel, and vanilla.  Some generic barrel char.  20 minutes in, a big green herbal note appears.

On the finish, there's heat.  Lots of heat.  Gotta work through that.  Then sugar, peppery rye, sawdust, caramel, and a hint of orange peel.

This was tough.  I have never added water to a barrel proof MGP rye, but this time I felt it was necessary.

WITH WATER (~50%abv)
The nose is nuttier, think almonds and cashews.  Less heat.  Eventually that egg note fades out.  Slight floral note meets a larger vanilla one.  Still some sharp wood/bark notes.

The palate is earthier and more peppery.  Much less heat, though it holds onto the sweetness.  Some drying tannins.  Hints of mint and lemons.

The finish is also less hot, though more drying.  More mint and pepper.  Cherry candies.

COMMENTS:
I know it's sexier to sell (and buy!) whisky at full strength, but some whiskies work better at lower proofs.  This whiskey was very hot and difficult at full strength.  In fact, I didn't want to drink anymore of it while doing this tasting.  When I drank the last quarter ounce the following day, I couldn't finish it off and started feeling like I was already tired of drinking rye this week.  But by adding water and dropping it to 50%abv during the tasting, I found that it cleaned up reasonably well.  The C grade whisky became a low B-.  Not that that's a great grade for an MGP rye from an MGP-biased reviewer, but it's better.  So if you bought this cask from SCN and it's not really doing anything for you, add water, maybe even generously so.

Availability - Sold out
Pricing - actually, I have no idea. It doesn't appear in SCN's current or archive bottle pages. If you remember the price, let me know and I'll update this.
Rating - 80 (with water only, 5-10 points lower when without water)

Single Malt Report: Springbank 17 year old 1997 Sherry Wood (2015 release)

Springbank has released a number of teenage "Sherry Wood" cask strength casks/batches over the past few years.  The one I'm reviewing today is the most recent 17 year old, the one with the perky red packaging you may have seen from time to time.

(Source: official site)

In addition to the Sherry Wood releases, there have also been a number of recent 16 to 19 year old Bourbon Wood, Port Wood, and Rum Wood batches/casks.  And the main complaint that some of us have with those is how deliriously high they've been priced in the United States.  As in, $300+ for a 19 year old (see here and here for two stores with the median price).

As I've demonstrated repeatedly, single malt whisky prices have gone up rapidly in the US.  But in Springbank Distillers Ltd's case it's an example of the distillery NOT being responsible for the increases, rather it's the importer/distributor with the heavy hand.  For example, (as per Wine-Searcher Pro's Average Wine Prices/History model) Americans are currently paying 47% more for Springbank 18, 53% more for each of the two Green releases, and 77% more for Longrow 18 than the Scots and Brits are.  Do tell, Pacific Edge Wine and Sprits, what in the greasy f**k?

With all that being said, this 17 year old Sherry Wood is only 16% more expensive here than in Continental Europe.  And its average US price is nearly the same as the older but lower-ABV and more widely available regular 18 year old.  In fact, it's $20 cheaper than the regular 18 at a local store.  So, perhaps this one slipped through Pacific Edge's hooks?

Distillery: Springbank
Brand: Springbank

Owner: Springbank Distillers Ltd.
Region: Campbeltown
Type: Single Malt

Age: 17 years (April 1997 - January 2015)

Maturation: "fresh and refill sherry butts and hogsheads"
Limited Bottling: 9,120 bottles

Alcohol by Volume: 52.3%
(From a purchased sample)

NEAT
Its color is a medium gold.

A reassuring grungy industrial Springbank-y note burns brightly in the nose.  It meets a mild dry sherry and a gentle mossy peat, as well as loads of cherry shisha and toffee pudding.  It's at alternate time plummy and minty.  There are smaller salty oceanside and anise notes.  After 20 minutes in the glass, it picks up a sharp lemon zest note, as well as vanilla bean and a little bit of barbecue.

The palate begins malty, with a side of fresh cherries and blueberries, then moves to limes and a zesty herbal-liqueur-like bitterness.  Delicate sherry notes.  Softly sweet plums, prunes, and black licorice.  A slight spicy zing.

A drier sherry in the finish.  Malt, distant smoke, a bitter rumble.  Also a nice spiciness that feels like a long-aged rye finished in sherry casks.

WITH WATER (~46%abv)
The anise note grows in the nose, as does the peat.  The sherry gets a little more sugary.  Dried berries and cherries.  Earthy molasses and orange zest.  The "Springbank-y" note remains, as does the toffee pudding.

The palate is sweeter and spicier.  Small floral notes meet up with the zesty bitters.  A hint of smoke.  Dark berries and dried apricots.

Those dried apricots continue into the finish.  Sweeter fruitier sherry (or European oak) notes show up alongside peat residue.

COMMENTS:
This smells and tastes like a combination of the official 12yo Cask Strength and 18 year old, but richer.  I've read a number of reviews online that comment/complain about the lack of sherry notes in this one.  Dunno what they're talking about, the sherry and European oak (and probably some US oak) are all present and accounted for in the whisky.  Perhaps everyone's used to Glendronach and Glenfarclas sherry bombs.  Here those notes are more moderate, which is great because the Springbank spirit can still be heard.

For a change, I agree with Whisky Advocate's take on a whisky......except for this sentence: "This bottling also wins plaudits for affordability."  Wat?  I don't care what the market is like, $170 does not qualify under "affordability" for one bottle of mass produced liquid.  My god, the delusions.

Anyway, this is great whisky.

Availability - Probably a few dozen specialty retailers in the US
Pricing - $160 to $190 in the US
Rating - 89

Single Malt Report: Springbank 16 year old 1991 Rum Wood

I'm a little surprised and disappointed by my experiences with the first two rum cask Springbanks I've tried.  Grade-wise, the first one was a low C and the second was a borderline C+/B-.  Those aren't whisky fails, but come on, this is Springbank.  My expectations are higher.  Perhaps they're too high since I'll be enjoying the excellent Springbank 12yo Calvados Wood alongside all three of the whiskies I'm reviewing this week.  Perhaps (perhaps!) what's needed is a secondary maturation approach (not a finish), like the Calvados Wood.  Then how about a 16 year old Rum Wood?  Eight years in ex-bourbon barrels, then eight years in "fresh Rum" barrels...

Distillery: Springbank
Brand: Springbank

Owner: Springbank Distillers Ltd.
Region: Campbeltown
Type: Single Malt

Age: 16 years (June 1991 - August 2007)

Maturation: refill bourbon barrels for the first 8 years, "fresh Rum" casks for the other 8

Alcohol by Volume: 54.2%
Limited Bottling: 5,100 bottles
(From a purchased sample)

NEAT
The color is a light yellow gold, paler than Monday's 9yo.

The nose leads with peaches, clementines, and flower blossoms, which is a surprise after my experiences with the other two ex-rum Springbanks.  Toasted grains in the background and wee hints of brown sugar and vanilla.  Pie crust.  After 20 minutes, a bright madeira note develops.

A bit of heat on the palate.  Lots of limes and lemons.  The peat reads more roasted than smoky.  A combination of vanilla extract and tapioca pudding.  The sweetness increases with time.  Eventually notes of roses and peaches appear.

Vanilla ice cream leads off the finish.  Tart limes and lemons, that drift a bit acidic at times.  Sweet rum and a peppery heat.

WITH WATER (~46%abv)
The nose gets even fruitier, like Balblair fruity, picking up some honeydew notes.  Demerara rum around the edges.  Cow Tales candy.  Milder floral notes.

Melon, peaches, and watermelon Jolly Ranchers candy in the palate.  Hints of vanilla and toffee.  As per these notes, it gets more desserty.

The shorter, though similar, finish has louder sweeter fruit and a bit of toffee.

COMMENTS:
Whew.  A good ex-rum Springbank that works well with or without water.  I like the strong fruit notes, and can definitely appreciate the light rum touch.  The peat is barely there, so sometimes this reads a little more Highland/Speyside than Campbeltown.  It doesn't hold a candle to the Calvados Wood, but it's still a solid B-grade whisky.  It would be nice if Springbank gives this rum cask maturation approach another spin again, and not charge $200 for the result.

Availability - Scarce
Pricing - all over the place, from $180 to $350
Rating - 86