...where distraction is the main attraction.

Monday, March 12, 2012

The Macallan - A History

This week is Macallan Week on the Single Malt Report.  Each day (with one notable exception) I'll be submitting a blog post about The Macallan.  Today, I'll talk about the distillery and the company's history.  Then I'll be posting single malt reports on three of their products throughout the week.

In 1824, the Elchies Distillery obtained a license to legally distill whisky.  It's widely believed that farmers on the Elchies Estate had been divining the spirit for many decades, but with the license they gained the legal right from The Crown to make and sell (and pay taxes on) the product.

Alexander Reid is credited as the founder of the distillery and ran it until his death in 1847.  After that, ownership bounced around through his family members for some time.  James Stuart obtained the whisky license in 1868, then later purchased the distillery outright in 1886.

Immediately after his purchase he rebuilt the distillery in stone, which was probably wise since they were producing an instantly combustable product within a wooden building.

Source
In 1892, Roderick Kemp sells off his co-ownership of Talisker.  His attempts to buy Glenfiddich, Cardu, and Mortlach fall unsuccessful.  But his purchase of the Elchies distillery from Stuart is a success.  Kemp improves the quality of the spirit, rebuilds and expands the distillery, then names it Macallan-Glenlivet (after the Macallan church near the Elchies estate).

Source
Upon Kemp's death in 1909, ownership goes into the hands of a trust run by his descendants for the next 87 years.  In 1968, the trust agrees to two large business decisions.  Firstly, they issue an IPO for 37.5% of the company in order to fund a massive updating.  Secondly, they begin casking the spirit to prepare for official bottlings of single malt.  Around this time, the product is renamed, The Macallan.

In 1980, their sherry-seasoned Spanish Oak matured single malts go on sale worldwide.  By 1984, they are the third best selling single malts in Scotland, and fifth best in the world.

In 1996, Highland Distilleries and Suntory execute a hostile takeover of company ownership.  In 1999, Edrington Group Ltd (70%) and William Grant & Sons (30%)  -- as the 1887 Company -- buy Highland Distlleries, which owns 75% of Macallan while Suntory holds onto their 25% share.  In 2001, Macallan is taken off the public stock market.

Having largely set the standard for lush Speyside sherried whiskies, Macallan throws the market (and fans) for a loop by releasing a Fine Oak brand that combines whiskies matured in Spanish Oak sherry casks, American Oak sherry casks, and American Oak bourbon casks.  This move rankles gruntles, but ultimately creates a different brand of whiskies that allow the malt spirit itself to shine through.

Until 1994, Macallan had only used the Golden Promise barley strain (native to Scotland).  But because that strain produces a low yield of a grain that further yields low spirit quantities, Macallan switches to more productive strains until phasing out Golden Promise altogether.  Currently they still use a local barley called Minstrel in about 20-30% of their malt.

The distillery uses very small stills which in turn give the malt its creamy style, so when the business expands they build more stills rather than buying larger ones.  According to their figures, The Macallan receives 65% of all the Spanish Oak casks imported to Scotland, and they further invest large sums in oak and spirit scientific studies (expenditures of which they often boast).  The sherry casks they purchase are first seasoned with Mosto grape juice for three months, then hold sherry for two years, then are brought to Scotland for filling and storage.  About 70-80% of their casks are first-fill, then the remainder are second-fill.

Generating more than half of their business in Asia, Macallan has been doing battle with The Glenlivet for second place in worldwide single malt sales since 2004.  In 2010, thanks to a 14% gain, they placed second behind first place Glenfiddich.

They promote themselves as a luxury brand in their advertisements as well as through their partnerships with jewelry, watch, and crystal companies.  This has allowed them to sell their products at a significant premium despite the enormous level of supply worldwide.



On Wednesday, I'll take a look at their US standard expression, the 12 year old Sherry Oak.  (In the meantime, you can also take a peek at my report on their Cask Strength release.)

Sources

Sunday, March 11, 2012

Baby otter says, "Spring forward!"

Just a little somethin' to make everyone feel better about losing an hour today.



Thursday, March 8, 2012

IMPORTANT RECIPE: Hot Whiskey

It is Day Ten of what has turned out to be some double-respiratory-infection hotness.  I'm finally feeling better, but Kristen is beginning to fall under the weather.

So now is the best time to impart the recipe for one of the great medicines!  Think of it as the Irish Chicken Soup.  A remedy for all your ills.*

[*This statement has not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease, but is very delicious.]

I discovered Hot Whiskey on a cold rainy October night in Doolin, Ireland back in 2003.  Nothing warms the cockles of one's cockles like a proper hot whiskey.  It tastes better than tea, feels great on a cold evening, and temporarily soothes an aching throat.  For some time, I've been trying to reverse engineer the most accurate recipe on my own.  This is it.

Note: It is of the utmost importance that Powers Whiskey ($15-$20!) be used.  It's what the locals use.  Its flavors combine best with the ingredients.  And it's a mighty fine Irish blend at that.  Using Jamesons or Tullamore Dew or Paddy's or Michael Collins or any fancy whiskies will not taste the same.  Believe me, I've tried.



HOT WHISKEY

Ingredients for two serving sizes:

Mug (approx 8oz.)
__Boiled Water (at least 2 mugs worth just to be safe)
__1/4 of a lemon (peel and all, seeds removed) - 1 slice
__4 whole cloves
__1 tsp brown (or demerara) sugar
__3 tbl (1.5oz) Powers Gold Label Irish Whiskey

OR

Glass (approx 12-16oz.)
__Boiled Water (at least 2 glasses worth just to be safe)
__1/2 of a lemon (peel and all, seeds removed) - 2 slices
__8 whole cloves (4 for each lemon slice)
__1 heaping tsp of brown (or demerara) sugar
__5 tbl (2.5oz) Powers Gold Label Irish Whiskey

Instructions:

1. First, boil that water.
2. Second, pour a little of the hot water into the mug/glass and swirl it around.  Don't burn yourself!  Spill it out.  Now you have a properly heated receptacle.
3. Put the brown sugar in the mug/glass, then add the whiskey on top.  Give it a little stir so that the sugar dissolves a bit.
4. Stick the cloves into the lemon slice(s).  Try to poke them into the white part (the pith!).  If that doesn't work, press them into the pulp.
5. Carefully (to avoid losing whiskey) slide the lemon slice(s) into the mug/glass with the whiskey and sugar.
6. Pour the insanely hot water into the mug/glass until filled.
7. Give it a couple of stirs to make sure the sugar has fully dissolved.  Wait a moment or three to let the flavors combine, and also to avoid scalding your face.
8. Savour slowly.

That's "Savour" with a U.  Y'all.



Here's a link to another good and similar Hot Whiskey recipe.
Here's Powers' recipe for Hot Whiskey.

Mugs hold the heat longer and approximate the size of the serving you'd get in a pub.  Glasses show off the lovely colour and make it easier to see if the sugar has dissolved.  So if you have a Irish Coffee Glass (8oz), that makes for the best drinkware here.

On a responsible note: If you are sick, please do not consume more than 3 ounces of whiskey.  Overconsumption of alcohol can lower one's zinc levels, in turn risking further sickness.

If you're not sick, who am I to tell you how to run your life?  There are 25 ounces of whiskey in that bottle!

Sláinte mhaith!

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Single Malt Report: Vegas 2012 edition (Part 4 of 4)

The triumphant conclusion of the Vegas 2012 edition of the Single Malt Report.

The Whisky Attic tasting in its entirety (links fixed!):

Part 1 - Dalmore Gran Reserva
Part 1 - Tyrconnell 10yr Irish Single Malt, Madeira Finish
Part 1 - Big Bottom Bourbon
Part 2 - Balvenie 14yr Caribbean Cask
Part 2 - Rowan's Creek Bourbon
Part 2 - Willett Straight Rye
Part 3 - Ledaig 15yr
Part 3 - Amrut Cask Strength Indian Single Malt
Part 3 - Laphroaig 10yr Cask Strength
Part 4 - Ardbeg Corryvreckan
Part 4 - Ballylarkin Irish Whiskey Liqueur
Part 4 - Tomintoul 27yr

In Part 3, I tried peaty, muscular, demanding whiskies.  In Part 4, my whisky walls tumble asunder.



ARDBEG CORRYVRECKAN

The great black wave.


The Corryvreckan, just off the coast of Islay, is the third largest whirlpool in the world.  It's a powerful audible force, described as "very violent and dangerous" by sailing manuals.  It has drawn artists and mystics throughout the years.  It almost killed Orwell when he was in the midst of writing Nineteen Eighty-Four.  It is the washtub of the Gaelic goddess of winter.  It pulled an ancient Norse king to his death.

Per Arcade Fire:
"Nothing lasts forever that's the way it’s gotta be
There's a great black wave in the middle of the sea"

Distillery: Ardbeg
Age: millennia?
Maturation: the planet's molten core
Region: Islay (natch)
Alcohol by Volume: 57.1%

'Twas very pleasing to see this placed in front of me.  I am an Ardbeg 10 fan and deeply desire all of Ardbeg's drams.  I brought the Corryvreckan glass to my lips to begin The Method and the ride began.

Whatever involuntary expression crossed my face made Adam laugh.  "That's what we like to call a bouquet," he said.

I said, "I um."

The whisky had expanded inside of my mind and lit up my skull, like only great absinthes (The Grand Mistress) do when they've arrived at their mark.  I don't know where the nose, palate, and finish borders began or ended.

I was like David in Henry Roth's Call it Sleep.  I had touched the electric rail.

thick tar! bitter
tea and black coffee and
decay-
-ed seaweed
mentholated tire fires
the anise
& sugar
of black
licorice
smoldering
petrol
all held together by the sweet bloom of some great unknown dark flower

"I don't even know what it is." "Fantastic, huh?" I answered him by staring at the glass for two minutes.

This one will sit in second place in the Rankings because I can't quite believe that it is real.  I require a second tasting to prove that I didn't dream it.  And maybe a comparison with its brother Uigeadail.  [Ed. note: Yes, it's bloody real.  Here's the followup report.]

Pricing - Bargain at $70-$80
Rating - 96




BALLYLARKIN IRISH WHISKY LIQUEUR


 I can't find a decent pic of the bottle, so here's a happy Wiki pic of lychees.
Distillery: Ballylarkin Abbey?
Age: minimum 3 years
Maturation: unknown
Region: Ireland (Kilkenny)
Alcohol by Volume: 40%

This dram proved that whisky tastings aren't totally devoid of humor.

After dropping me into the dark sun of Ardbeg Corryvreckan, what did Adam give me next?  Whisky candy!  He brought me back into the light with syrupy, rich, and fruity Ballylarkin Irish Whisky Liqueur.

I've searched far and wide (on the Intertubes) to find anything about Ballylarkin Liqueur.  The only place with statistics was a report from Washington State's Liquor Control Board.  Otherwise, not much in the way of facts.  It does appear that the liqueur was created by the monks at Ballylarkin Abbey.

Dang.  Monks are always onto the good sh**.

The Ballylarkin company (and abbey) are in County Kilkenny, a beautiful spot I visited almost nine years ago.  I highly recommend visiting the beautiful town of Kilkenny as well.

So, if whiskey is already a liquor, what is whiskey liqueur?  A liquor producer takes some already-matured whiskey stock (that's often not of single malt, pot still, or, even blend quality) then sweetens it with honey, fruit juices and extracts, spices, and sugars.  The result is something extra-desserty, like Drambuie, Irish Mist, Jeremiah Weed, and...

Ballylarkin Irish Whiskey Liqueur
Nose: mmm desserty, candied peaches, lychee juice, vanilla
Palate: thickly textured, lots of lychee fruit, canned peach and pear syrup, and a bourbony Irish whiskey
Finish: strong enough to clear away all previous whisky, but NOT sickly sweet

If you can find Ballylarkin at a bar or restaurant and those tasting notes appeal to you, I do recommend giving it a try.  It shouldn't be that expensive, probably cheaper than Drambuie.  But if those notes gross you out, then stick to a Glenfarclas-flavored dessert.

Pricing - Good at $30-$35
Rating - 77



TOMINTOUL 27 YEAR OLD

Distillery: Tomintoul
Age: minimum 27 years old
Maturation: Bourbon casks
Region: Speyside
Alcohol by Volume: 40%

I reviewed the Tomintoul 33 year old last year after I'd sampled it on my 33rd birthday.  And found it to be so easy-going that its character was difficult to suss out.  I'd enjoyed the 16 year considerably more.

The 27-year is being phased out, with the 33-year replacing it on the official Tomintioul range.  Or so, I've been reading.  The thing is, the 27 year is easier to find than its replacement via online US whisky sellers.  And that's not a bad thing, since I enjoyed the 27 year much more.

Now, the Ballylarkin was supposed to be the closer on the tasting.  But Adam was incredibly generous and allowed me a bonus partial dram of this 27.

Tomintoul 27 year old
Nose: Light vanilla, fruit sugary but not sweetish, pears!
Palate: More pears, fresh ones though, not canned; a little nutty and malty with a peep of the vanilla
Finish: Medium, a little bit fruit, a little bit of malt

Quite good.  If it was a third of the price, I'd make this a regular in my whisky stash.  But it is 27 years old and priced very competitively with others in that age range.

Pricing - Acceptable at $180-$200
Rating - 87



I have now expended thousands of words on this tasting and still feel as if that hasn't done it justice.  It was a pivotal whisky experience for me.  Not just for learning a new tasting method.  Not just for getting a chance to view and drink so many great spirits.  Not just for having the opportunity to talk to a whisky expert like Adam Carmer.

Things have been a little rocky in my personal life, so having this chance to deeply explore the grand whisky world without judgement, without second thought, luxuriating in the moment, was valuable beyond price.

Thanks for giving this particular whisky voyage a read.  I look forward to reporting on the many voyages to come.

Monday, March 5, 2012

Single Malt Report: Vegas 2012 edition (Part 3 of 4)

Happy Monday!  Time for Part Three in the Vegas 2012 edition of the Single Malt report.

Here's The Whisky Attic drink list:

Part 1 - Dalmore Gran Reserva
Part 1 - Tyrconnell 10yr Irish Single Malt, Madeira Finish
Part 1 - Big Bottom Bourbon
Part 2 - Balvenie 14yr Caribbean Cask
Part 2 - Rowan's Creek Bourbon
Part 2 - Willett Straight Rye
Part 3 - Ledaig 15yr
Part 3 - Amrut Cask Strength Indian Single Malt
Part 3 - Laphroaig 10yr Cask Strength
Ardbeg Corryvrecken
Ballylarkin Irish Whiskey Liqueur
Tomintoul 27yr

Adam had told me, before the tasting had begun, that due to my palate preferences we would be heading towards the extremes of the whisky world.

Now we were at the midpoint of whiskies.  There had been great finishes: madeira on Irish, rum on Scottish; and there had been a massive spicy rye.  But what about the single malt's spirit itself, what journeys awaited?


LEDAIG 15 YEAR OLD SINGLE MALT

Distillery: Tobermory
Brand: Ledaig
Age: minimum 15 years
Maturation: likely bourbon casks
Region: Island (Mull)
Alcohol by Volume: 43%

The Island of Mull sits south of Syke and north of Islay.  A single distillery has operated on this rocky island, on and off, since 1798.  It's been known as Tobermory for the majority of its existence, but also went by the name Ledaig for twenty years.

Currently Tobermory produces its namesake unpeated malt as well as "Ledaig", a considerably peated malt modelled after the whisky that had been produced on the island many years before.  Ledaig is a bit of a curio since it's not hot and peppery like Talisker to the north, nor is it medicinal like the distilleries to the south.

The good news is that Ledaig 15 is wonderful, strong in character and significantly different than any other malt that I've had...

Ledaig 15yr
Nose: Fresh peat: the mosses and grasses that later ended their days as the smoke that dried the Mull malted barley; a bit of soap, some citrus
Palate: That lovely fresh vegetal peat element, new cigar smoke, a little dusty, malty, a smidge of spice
Finish: Very extensive for its ABV, lovely in fact, a little dusty and vegetal

...The bad news?  Ledaig 15 was produced in limited amounts for a limited time and no longer for sale anywhere, except at swollen auction prices.  It was a great pleasure to have had this opportunity to taste it.

Pricing - Unbloodyknown :(
Rating - 92


AMRUT CASK STRENGTH INDIAN SINGLE MALT


Distillery: Amrut
Age: unknown but definitely young
Maturation: bourbon casks
Region: India (Bangalore)
Alcohol by Volume: 61.8%

Then it was a quick gear shift into a hefty Cask Strength from...

India.

India?  India.  India has a massive whisky market, dominated by their own brands of blends.  Much of what they bottle as "whisky" is actually an inexpensive distillation of molasses.  BUT, Amrut Distilleries (est. 1948) now produces their malts according to the Scottish Whisky Association's standards.

Now, as you can imagine, the weather in India is slightly different than that of Scotland.  So the whisky matures differently.  For instance the heavy heat causes the spirit to shed alcohol much faster than its Scotch counterparts.  Thus the bottlings must be much younger.

So, what we have here is a young cask-strengthed Amrut, with a big ABV:


Amrut Cask Strength Indian Single Malt
Nose: Malty and oaky, but surprisingly little ethyl for an ABV like this
Palate: Thick, oily, malty, a little bit of salt, very fatty, again relatively little of that ethyl
Finish: Here's the Heat, along with some spice.

Perhaps it was the new tasting method, but the alcohol (62% of the drink) was not as obtrusive as other lighter cask strength whiskies I've had.  It was very good.  Blindfolded I wouldn't have known that it wasn't Scottish.

ALSO, I have a my own mini bottle of this.  So we'll explore this further, along with other world whiskies, next month.

Pricing - Good at $65-$75
Rating - 81
(to be examined again in April...)

LAPHROAIG 10 YEAR OLD CASK STRENGTH (Batch 002)
This may or may not be the right bottle pic.  There are others with greener labels and the ABV stamped largely on the front.

Distillery: Laphroaig
Age: minimum 10 years
Maturation: seasoned oak
Region: Islay
Alcohol by Volume: 56.3%

Adam and I chatted about Laphroaig's malts after I'd sampled this one.  He helped diagnose my issue with the 18 year -- it's designed with a subtler palate range in mind.  He's also a fan of the Quarter Cask.  "Best nose in the range, but this has the best finish by far."  This being the 10yr Cask Strength.

Laphroaig 10yr Cask Strength
Nose: Coal and wood smoke, no bandaids, salty, and moderate peating
Palate: More of the coal and wood smoke, smoked fish, salty Atlantic, balanced by a mellow brown sugar sweetness, nice oily texture
Finish: One of the greatest ever. ENORMOUS. I swear there were three climbing tiers of finish. It was boom, then BOom, then boOM. Cigars, bonfires, woodstoves, coastal Irish evenings

I'll agree with him, this finish was unbelievable.  It kept transforming as time went on.  Looks like the Quarter Cask has a competitor here.

Pricing - Good at $60; Less Good at $75
Rating - 89



These were all big individualist whiskies adorned with clomping steel-toed boot-style characteristics.

Could we go any larger?  What in the world would that be like?