...where distraction is the main attraction.

Wednesday, February 17, 2016

Compass Box Blended Malt Triple Taste Off: Oak Cross, Spice Tree, and Peat Monster

Finally, our third set of three CBs.  This time it's their three main regular range blended (or vatted) malts: Oak Cross, Spice Tree, and Peat Monster.  I've reviewed each of these before, but this time these samples were poured by me, rather than purchased from a retailer.  Plus these were all bottled in 2014.

COMPASS BOX OAK CROSS
Company: Compass Box
Type: Blended Malt
Distilleries: approximately 60% Clynelish, 20% Dailuane, and 20% Teaninch
Alcohol by Volume: 43%
Chillfiltered? No
Color added? No

COMPASS BOX SPICE TREE
Company: Compass Box
Type: Blended Malt
Distilleries: approximately 60% Clynelish, 20% Dailuane, and 20% Teaninch
Alcohol by Volume: 46%
Chillfiltered? No
Color added? No

COMPASS BOX PEAT MONSTER
Company: Compass Box
Type: Blended Malt
Distilleries: Ardmore, Laphroaig (current batch), Ledaig (current batch), Caol Ila (past batches)
Age: ???
Maturation: Fact sheet says just refill American oak, Tasting video says "30% first fill American oak, 70% refill American oak", so it might change from batch to batch
Alcohol by Volume: 46%
Chillfiltered? No
Color added? No

The Spice Tree sample came from my own bottle, gifted to me by my lovely wife.  The Oak Cross and Peat Monster samples were from two different OCSC events.  Because I know Spice Tree pretty well and Peat Monster is much different than the other two this Taste Off was not done blindly.



THE TASTE OFF!

OAK CROSS
Its color is a yellow amber.  The nose is big on flowers and fruit.  There's lemon, banana bread, peach schnapps, fresh apricots, orange marmalade, and floral teas.  There are also smaller notes of vanilla and pencil shavings.  When it comes to the palate, the bad news is that the mouthfeel is thin and there's little development.  Caramel and butter cookies balance with some bitter citrus and black pepper.  Vanilla, notebook paper, and a soft citric sweetness lingers in the background.  A little bit of spirity heat stays throughout.  The finish gets sweeter, focuses on vanilla and caramel.  Meanwhile some burnt oak and bitterness runs through the middle.

Comments: This one feels like it's lost something over the years.  It has a very good nose but a flat palate.  The finish does even less for me.  I wish some of the nose's fruits showed up on the palate and that the finish did something.  Maybe it needs the extra three points of ABV.  Maybe it needs more age.  Maybe it needs more Clynelish.  Not a bad whisky, but it no longer can keep up with...


SPICE TREE
This one has the darkest color, a medium gold.  LOTS of spice (obvs) in the nose, much of it is probably from the French oak, but it's sometimes reminiscent of American rye whiskey.  Other major notes: Spice cake, butterscotch candy, cocoa, fresh tobacco, and tapioca pudding.  With some breathing time, the whisky develops notes of salty beach air and lychee candy (Kasugai).  That spice cake shows up in the palate as well with notes of cloves, nutmeg, and (non-cassia) cinnamon.  There are limes and oranges, fruity shisha, dried apricots, toffee pudding, and a little bit of soil.  It finishes with rich vanilla ice cream topped with caramel sauce.  Oh, and butterscotch and toffee.  Cloves in the back along with a hint of cantaloupe.

Comments: I love this stuff.  My wife, who prefers American whiskey over Scotch, likes Spice Tree as well.  At times it seems to be the Scottish cousin of straight rye whiskey.  In any case, it's the one regular Compass Box whisky that consistently nails the nose, palate, and finish.  And man, does it stick the finish.

THE PEAT MONSTER
Very very pale in color, which is always appreciated here.  A surprising amount of oak spice on the nose in this one.  Perhaps there were some active US oak barrels in the mix?  The peat registers at a low rumble, kind of like a sugary Laphroaig.  There's some burnt beef and a hint of manure.  Caramel and whole wheat toast.  After 20ish minutes in the glass it finds a rotting beachside seaweed note and some dried herbs.  The palate is REALLY vegetal in its first few moments.  Then horseradish and cigarettes.  Cinnamon candy.  Somehow rooty, sweet, and tangy at the same time.  A peppery tingle throughout.  After those 20ish minutes in the glass, the whisky starts to get mossier and bitterer.  The decent length finish has a lot of salt and beach notes.  Some sage, moss, burnt bark, and black pepper.  It gets sweeter and sweeter with time.

Comments: Ye olde peat cow seems to get bolder every time I try it.  It's no longer as politely peaty as it use to be.  There's an edge to it now, something appreciated by some more than others.  Maybe there's more Ledaig in the mix.  Or maybe they're using younger whisky.  There's some young(?) sugariness to it that doesn't really dance so well with the other parts, keeping it from fully congealing.



FINAL THOUGHTS
These were all better than yesterday's blends, thank goodness, and at least two of them sorta earn their price.  I keep getting the feeling that the Oak Cross and Peat Monster (and Asyla) are using younger ingredients than they used to.  Perhaps that was inevitable, as Compass Box's popularity might eventually put a squeeze on their own stocks.  It doesn't hurt Peat Monster too much, but Oak Cross feels like it's fallen a step over the past couple of years.  It has gotten thin and plain, as if it has been filtered or bottled at 40% ABV.  Meanwhile, Spice Tree remains one of the best blended malts on the market, and it's a Scotch I feel confident in recommending to rye and high-rye-bourbon fans.  It has also held its price -- never moving more than $5 in its national average -- over the past five years, something I certainly treasure.

COMPASS BOX OAK CROSS
Availability - Most specialty liquor retailers
Pricing - $40 to $60
Rating - 82

COMPASS BOX SPICE TREE
Availability - Most specialty liquor retailers
Pricing - $55 to $75
Rating - 89

COMPASS BOX THE PEAT MONSTER
Availability - Most specialty liquor retailers
Pricing - $45 to $70
Rating - 85

Tuesday, February 16, 2016

Compass Box Blended Whisky Blind Triple Taste Off!

A lot of info to get through here, so I'll cut the usual schtick and get right to the candidates (all bottled in 2014):

COMPASS BOX ASYLA
Company: Compass Box
Type: Blended Whisky
Contents: 50% Malt Whisky (Teaninich and Glen Elgin) and 50% Grain Whisky (Cameron Bridge)
Age: ???
Maturation: first fill ex-bourbon casks
Alcohol by Volume: 40%
Chillfiltered? No
Color added? No
Official product fact sheet PDF

GREAT KING STREET ARTIST'S BLEND
Company: Compass Box
Type: Blended Whisky
Contents: 54% Malt Whisky (of which is 52% "Northern Highland (malty/fruity)", 31% "Northern Highland (grassy/perfumy), 17% "Speyside (meaty)") and 46% Grain Whisky ("Lowland")
Age: ???
Maturation: 66% first fill ex-bourbon casks, 26% New French oak "finish", 8% first fill ex-sherry butt
Alcohol by Volume: 43%
Chillfiltered? No
Color added? No
Official product fact sheet PDF

GREAT KING STREET GLASGOW BLEND
Company: Compass Box
Type: Blended Whisky
Contents: 67% Malt Whisky (numerous distilleries, amongst which Laphroaig, Clynelish, and maybe Dailuaine are included) and 33% Grain Whisky (Cameron Bridge)
Age: ???
Maturation: "A combination of first-fill Sherry casks, first-fill and refill ex-Bourbon barrels and a small portion of new French oak finishing."
Alcohol by Volume: 43%
Chillfiltered? No
Color added? No
Official product fact sheet PDF

All three samples were purchased at an OC Scotch Club event.

Awesome picture and great spelling, dude.
Thirty milliliters of each whisky poured its own Glencairn glass were arranged so that I did not know which was which.  So I numbered them 1 and 2 and 3.  First I tasted them neat, then added 1mL of water to each whisky at their halfway points.  Once the tasting was complete, I ranked each, graded them, and guessed which was which.  Two genuine surprises resulted......

THE TASTING

WHISKY 1
Neat:
The nose begins with Band-aids, lemon peel, and salty broth.  It's slightly herbal and has a bite of young rubbery peat.  Smaller notes of oats, sweat, and dog fur appear here and there.  The palate is very grassy with young herbally peat up front.  Ginger and dried oregano in the midground.  Bitter oak and pencil lead in the background.  It finishes mossy and gingery.  Mesquite smoke, vanilla, and an oaky bitterness develop after a few moments.

With water:
More rubbery peat in the nose now.  More vanilla too, followed by hints of dried cherries and dried apricots.  The palate gets mossier, though it loses the lead note.  A slight stone fruitiness mingles well with a good soft bitterness.  Large notes of vanilla and brown sugar.  The bitterness improves in the finish as well, meeting up with vanilla and extinguished cigarettes.

Comments:
By far the best nose of the three, whether neat or hydrated.  Though at the same time, it has the weakest roughest palate and a finish I didn't care for.  It shouts youth and maybe even some cask issues at times.  It fact it was comparable to the $20 Shieldaig Highland single malt I reviewed last year.  That doesn't bode well for a $40+ whisky.  The good nose can't totally save it.  GRADE: 79

WHISKY 2
Neat:
The nose is very mild, sometimes almost silent.  There are subtle notes of fresh peach, apricot, and cucumber.  Then there's toasted barley, vanilla, caramel, and American oak char.  It's really grassy.  The palate has the big grass note, though here it's dried clippings.  Vanilla, caramel, pepper, and mocha are in the midground.  A whiff of smoke meets a lot of fresh ginger.  It finishes simple and spirity.  Mostly pepper, salt, and ginger.  Maybe a little bit of caramel.

With water:
The nose is still super grassy, but now there are bigger fruit notes.  Bartlett pears and an orange creamsicle.  More grass in the palate.  Some dried herbs.  A hint of cardboard and some green woody bitterness.  The finish is mostly wood spice and bitterness, then grass and paper.

Comments:
This had the weakest nose of the three, though it did improve when the water was added.  Meanwhile the halfway decent palate totally collapsed when watered.  The finish was so-so, but again didn't react well to the water.  Overall it was the most disappointing of the three.  I can see how it makes for an okay unchallenging neat sipper, but with it falling apart when hydrated I wouldn't have much confidence when it's hit with ice or club soda.  GRADE: 77

WHISKY 3
Neat:
The nose has some sharp mineral notes which for some reason remind me of young Clynelish.  Small pine needle and bubblegum notes meet larger notes of roses, orange, and pear.  After 15-20 minutes in the glass, it fades into caramel and toasted almonds.  The fizzy palate is loaded with toffee.  There's some vanilla, whipped cream, and definitely some malt.  A hint of cardboard.  This has the best mouthfeel of the three whiskies.  It finishes fizzy like a ginger beer.  Then wood spice and vanilla.

With water:
The caramel and toasted almonds remain in the nose.  It's more sugary now and picks up some cardamom.  The palate simplifies into vanilla, sugar, caramel candy, and ginger powder.  Rock candy, vanilla, and black pepper in the finish.

Comments:
The nose ultimately ranked between the other two, but I probably would have it in first had it not nearly vanished after airing out.  This had the best palate, and really the great mouthfeel alone put it ahead of the others.  But then the finish was just so-so, again.  Water narrows it down rather than opening it up.  GRADE: 81

RANKS AND GUESSES:
NOSE (best to worst) - 1, 3, 2
PALATE - 3, 2, 1
FINISH - 2, 3, 1 (but I didn't really like any of them)

#1 - Great King Street Glasgow Blend (79)
#2 - Asyla (77)
#3 - Great King Street Artist's Blend (81)




REVEAL!!!
#1 - Great King Street Glasgow Blend
#2 - Asyla
#3 - Great King Street Artist's Blend

So, there's the first surprise.  I guessed them all correctly.  But that wasn't due to expertise.  I knew the Glasgow Blend would be the peatiest, thus #1 was a dead giveaway.  Then I just had to guess between #2 and #3.  I've had the Artist's Blend a few times, and #3's palate seemed familiar so I placed it there.  It was a 50/50 shot and I got lucky.

Second surprise?  I was underwhelmed by all of three whiskies.  I've been a big Compass Box fan ever since I first tried their stuff three years ago so I take no pleasure in writing any of this.  But I found these three whiskies to be, frankly, boring.  They all feel quite young and the charms of Asyla totally escape me.  If you're looking for whisky to sip and forget, I suppose these are all fine, but most major 12 year old blends will serve those needs better at a lower price.

This was a disappointing Taste Off.  Let's see if the next one goes better.

COMPASS BOX ASYLA
Availability - Most specialty liquor retailers
Pricing - $40 to $60
Rating - 77

GREAT KING STREET ARTIST'S BLEND
Availability - Most specialty liquor retailers
Pricing - $35 to $55
Rating - 81

GREAT KING STREET GLASGOW BLEND
Availability - Scarcer than the Artist's Blend, but still sold at many specialty liquor stores
Pricing - $35 to $55
Rating - 79

Monday, February 15, 2016

Notes from a Tasting: Original US editions of Compass Box Asyla, Eleuthera, and Peat Monster

There will be a lot of Compass Box reviews belching forth from this site over the next few days.  One disclaimer: there will NOT be a review of either Not a Luxury Whisky nor Flaming Heart 15th Anniversary included amongst these posts.  I'm focusing on the regular range, stuff that's more affordable.  I haven't tried the Luxury thing, but I did have a couple sips of the new Flaming Heart.  It's good but I have a difficult time reconciling its $130 price tag.  If I can source good samples of any of their special releases I will certainly review them.

Let's start off with a little warmup.  Back in October I unearthed my samples (purchased from Southern California Whiskey Club) of the original US editions of Asyla, Eleuthera, and Peat Monster.  I tried them side by side in the order I list them below, comparing and contrasting.  They were small samples (about 15mL) so I'm going to give them letter grade range below, rather than an exact number grade.



COMPASS BOX ASYLA blended whisky, 40%abv
Nose - First there are the fruits lemons, limes, and peaches.  Then some toffee and salty air.  Lots of dried herbs too.  Some shortbread cookies show up after some air.

Palate - Very soft and mellow.  Mild sweetness, vanilla, a little bit of flower blossoms.  Lots of first-fill-ex-bourbon oak.  Some sharper young stuff underneath.

Finish - Sweet.  Think brown sugar, vanilla, and orange oil.

Comments: Very nice nose, somewhat forgettable palate.  Probably could have used the 46%abv at which they bottle their vatted malts.  I have doubts that the components reached their 10th birthday.  In any case, it's not bad stuff, it's fine.  There's just not much motivation to pay $45-$50 for it.  Grade range: C+/B-



COMPASS BOX ELEUTHERA blended malt, 46%abv
Nose - Starts off with a big ol' Band-Aid note, followed by peat moss and a little bit of seaweed.  Some moderate notes of vanilla and orange zest too.

Palate - Gentle warm peating.  Limes and oranges and marzipan and "hint of horse shit".  Don't ask me, I just work here.  It starts out lightly peppery but gets progressively more peppery with time.

Finish - Peppery again here.  Some toasty oak and light citrus.  Much longer than the Asyla's finish.

Comments: I reviewed this blend of 15yo Clynelish and 12yo Caol Ila almost three years ago when it was still kinda available.  Though my notes are a little different I generally agree about the quality and the blending skill.  This really seems like a single malt.  Grade range: B



COMPASS BOX PEAT MONSTER blended malt, 46%abv
Nose - Very leafy.  Fresh herbs.  A bit of American oak, but not much.  Cinnamon, molasses, and vanilla bean.  Tart apples, sort of like cider vinegar without the stank.

Palate - A peating level that won't offend.  Mellow smoke, a little bit of tar and concrete.  Lots of  sugars, along with cocoa and mint.

Finish - Brown sugar, vanilla, and a little bit of moss.  A good long salty finale.

Comments: I think I've tried every version of The Peat Monster, but it's never shown to be a monster.  They're all cuddly peat cows.  These early batches were more herbal than smoky or mossy.  The most recent batches, like the one I reviewed 16 months ago, are getting better, louder, and fuller.  Perhaps there will be another review this week.  Grade Range: B-/B



Okay, a good start.  Tomorrow, a blind Taste Off......

Friday, February 12, 2016

Valentine's Whisky Report: VAT 69 Gold blended whisky (bottled in 1980)

This one is for all you lovers out there.


No word really conjures the beauty of a beverage like "VAT".  Forget Value Added Tax and the Joker falling into a vat of acid.  VAT rhymes with tender words like rat and plutocrat and scat and shat.  And hey, this isn't even a vatted malt.  It's just a cheap high-grain blend.  A cheap high-grain blend that single-handedly destroyed Shackleton's Antarctic voyage in 1915.  Okay maybe not single-handedly.

VAT 69 has been loved by such romantic fictional individuals like Jack Torrance from The Shining, the murdered manwhore Chris Laverly of The Lady in the Lake, and Sergeant Deadhead.

"Hey baby, when things get cold,
nothing helps out a Trans-Antarctic Expedition
like a little VAT 69."
There is a story behind the name and it's très chaud.  When wine and spirits producer William Sanderson was creating his own blend in 1882 he sent 100 different samples to independent judges.  The judges unanimously selected sample 69, but not because it was the best one, but rather they were hammered and couldn't stop giggling about 69.

And that's it for your history lesson today.

The whisky (Gold Label edition!) being reviewed here was discovered by this intrepid blogger who spent two years bravely rescuing the shittiest whiskies from their Long Beach liquor mart prisons.  The guards asked for only $12.99 to free it.

Brand: VAT 69
Ownership at the time: William Sanderson & Sons Ltd. (owned by DCL)
Current ownership: Diageo
Type: Scotch Blended Whisky
Age: minimum 3 years
Alcohol by Volume: 43% (or 86 US proof)
Bottled: 1980

REVIEW
Its color is light golden, as the label says.

The nose has a thick frosting of old bottle blend stank that one just needs to wait out in order to get underneath.  Once there, it gets very nice.  There are vanillas and caramels, with little strawberry and raspberry candy notes.  Orange blossoms, dried grains, and candy canes.  After a while it becomes all flowers and fudge.

Quite some pruney sherry in the palate.  There's a little bit of the stank, then a spicy zing and some citric acidity.  There are mothballs and bland caramel, but also some dark chocolate.  A big barley note lurks beneath.

A lot of the old school pruney sherry in the finish.  Then a menthol glow meets a cinnamon sting.  Not much there there but it lingers longer than expected.

COMMENTS

VAT 69 is mostly butt.

*drops the mic*

*stumbles and falls offstage*

*dies*

.............

No, that was my original commentary, written before I opened the bottle.  VAT 69 is not mostly butt.  The nose is really nice, actually, once it's aired out.  A little bit weird in the mouth at times, but still wholly consumable.  It takes a while to finish, which sometimes is good, sometimes not.

But the bottle is haunted by The Genie's Fart, a phenomenon I've experienced with every dusty blend I've bought from Long Beach shops.  As soon as the bottle is opened, a fetid rotten vegetable odor puffs out.  Once freed, it usually never returns.  Sometimes it penetrates the liquid itself, like with the '72 Haig I reviewed last year at this time.  Here, it does so more gently than that Haig, still lingering in the nose.  Thus you may experience a little toot in the face if you rush into things.  So for God's sakes, people, take your time.  These things are only as filthy as you want them to be.

Availability - 
Happy Hunting?

Pricing - snuggled up at $12.99
Rating - 79

Wednesday, February 10, 2016

Single Malt Report: Balvenie Tun 1509 batch 2

The last of the Balvenie Bye-Bye series is one of the Tuns.  When I first scheduled this series a couple months ago, I had thought the Tun 1509s were gone from the US.  Upon arrival they'd instantly vaporized in California, with the only lingering bottles now selling in the $500-$600 range (by retailers intending to battle the secondary market I suppose).  To me, when a whisky reaches that point it's as good as gone.  But then I noticed last week that Tun 1509 is still available in a number of saner states, often selling near its original $300 price.  In fact, winesearcher shows that the average US price for Batch 1 has dropped since its October 2014 release, from $400 to $361.  And if one were to ignore the California opportunists, the average price would drop below $350.  What a bargain!
Anyway, if you don't know the story behind the Tun 1509s, here it goes.  Once upon a time there were nine batches of Balvenie Tun 1401, the supreme example used without irony by industry apologists to try to prove non-age-statement (NAS) whiskies were good.  (Part of the reason the Tun 1401s were "good" was because all of the casks in the mix were over 25 years old, with many being well over 30 years old; meanwhile the vast majority of NAS whiskies are closer to 5 years old.)  A couple years ago, Balvenie stopped putting casks to marry in Tun 1401 and built a larger tun, #1509.  With a larger tun, the new batches would be four times the size of the 1401 batches.  Cheaper casks too, with a lower ratio of ex-sherry butts.  And since we didn't actually know the age of the casks in the mix, the more cynical of us started to wonder if the whisky was also younger than the 1401s.  This feeling was then backed up by reviews on reddit, whiskyfun, and whiskynotes.  So what's the tally here?  More bottles per batch, made from cheaper casks holding likely younger whisky, and a higher MSRP.  If this surprises you, then you must be new to scotch whisky.

I was a very big fan of the Tun 1401 series.  To me, they were blending masterpieces.  Though I was able to try four of the batches, I was never able to purchase a bottle for myself.  And that's a bummer.  But you know what?  It's just whisky, man.  Tun Money can buy a lot of things.

For an OC Scotch Club event, we were able to obtain a bottle of the second batch of Tun 1509 for $300ish.  It turned out to be very popular, surprise surprise.  Luckily I was able to pour a sample for myself before the bottle was emptied.  Let's see how it do.

Distillery: Balvenie
Ownership: William Grant & Sons
Region: Speyside (Dufftown)
Type: Single Malt
Age: damfino
Maturation: "23 American oak hogsheads and barrels + 7 European oak sherry butts + 2 sherry hogsheads"
Alcohol by Volume: 50.3%
Chillfiltered? No
Color added? Hopefully not

NEAT
The nose starts off with fresh fruit, think peaches and apricots. Dark berry syrup and orange oil. Then it's reminiscent of the excellent apricot rugelach my wife made in December. Sugar cookies, a smoked vanilla bean, and creme brûlée. Then lychee black tea, a hint of aloe, and a little bit of grapey sherry.

Right off the bat, the palate is quieter and narrower than the nose, mostly toasted grains and toasted oak.  With 20+ minutes it develops lots of tiny notes of berries and stone fruit, then bigger notes of almond torte and honey.  A mild sweetness rests in the middle, with a mild spicy undertow.

The almond torte turns into a berry fruit tart in the finish. Then a note somewhere between vanilla ice cream and creme brûlée.  Honey, soft tingly baking spices, and a slight oversteeped bitter tea note.

WITH WATER (~42-43%abv)
The nose becomes hushed.  Creamy and sugary, a hint of florals.  Vanilla, almond extract, and lime juice.

The palate leads with aromatic wood spices, vanilla, and caramel. You know, wood stuff. Then smaller notes of malt, toffee, and floral honey.

The wood spice and malt sit further apart in the finish, along with vanilla and floral honey.

COMMENTARY:
A good, sometimes very good whisky. Best on the nose, and best when served neatly. The oak is always present, but doesn't get loud until the finish.

I'm giving it a good score below, as you can see, but I feel so unenthusiastic about this whisky because of its predecessors. The fact that I even thought to add water to it was a bad sign, as I had never thought to hydrate a 1401. But I'll push aside history here and try to quantify things.

Balvenie Tun 1509 batch 2 is a half step better than the Doublewood 17yo, which itself is a half step better than the Doublewood 12yo.  Or with approximate grades and national prices:
Balvenie Doublewood 12yo: B-/B -- $58
Balvenie Doublewood 17yo: B -- $148
Balvenie Tun 1509 batch 2: B/B+ -- $390

Ignoring the price, I can say this is good, sometimes very good whisky.  And ignoring its older siblings, I can say this is good, sometimes very good whisky.  But I can't ignore those things.  As a short term financial decision, I'd say this was a success.  But as far as the product goes, I don't see this as a step forward for Balvenie.

Availability - It can be found, just not on the West Coast. Look East.
Pricing - anywhere from $350 to $600
Rating - 88

Monday, February 8, 2016

Single Malt Report: Balvenie 15 year old Single Barrel (ex-bourbon, #11161)

Each successive one of these Balvenie Bye-Byes was removed from the range more recently that the one before.  And each is older than the previous.  Today's will look more familiar than the others to many scotch fans.
Actual bottle reviewed!
But wait, you say, the 15 year old Single Sherry Cask is on the shelves everywhere.  And, yes, I say, this the 15 year old Single Barrel when it was pulled only from former bourbon casks.  In 2014 (give or take a couple months), this expression (I'm not a fan of that word) was replaced by two(!) other expressions: the 12 year old Single First Fill Bourbon Barrel and the 15 year old Single Sherry Barrel.  The 12yo entered the market at the same price point as the old 15yo, and the new 15yo Sherry was $20-$30 more expensive.

I have to say I've always appreciated this Single Barrel series.  It's a little nerdier than most official single malt bottlings.  There's actual information on the label, each barrel is different, some are occasionally older than 15 years, and the ABV is higher than most OBs.  The current 12yo, 15yo Sherry, and 25yo Single Barrel releases are still cool in theory, it's their prices that keep me away.

This past November, I found this particular bottle selling near its original 2013 price.  So I scooped it up for an OC Scotch Club event, the same event which had the a'bunadh #50.  They're cool events, you should go to them.  There were two other bottles of this Single Barrel on the shelf, but I left them for others.  And they vanished before the next month.  Here's my review from the bottle:

Distillery: Balvenie
Ownership: William Grant & Sons
Region: Speyside (Dufftown)
Type: Single Malt
Age: 15 years (September 23, 1997 to February 13, 2013)
Maturation: ex-bourbon barrel
Alcohol by Volume: 47.8%
Barrel #: 11161
Bottle #: 103
Chillfiltered? No
Color added? Not much if any

NEAT
The nose is straightforward: oats, barley, lemons, and tangerines.  Smaller notes of fennel seeds, soil, roses, and raspberries appear here and there.

The palate is richly malty.  Ovaltine, milk chocolate, and hard toffee.  Then citrus peels and toasted marshmallows.  It's almost smoky at times and has a little bit of a buzzy chili pepper heat.

The decent length finish has that milk chocolate note and little bit of the toasted marshmallow.  But its biggest note is citrus tanginess (think lemons and limes).  Some rose petals and black pepper too.

Let's see what happens when it's dropped down to Balvenie's usual ABV...

WITH WATER (~43%abv)
The grains remain in the nose and most of the fruit departs.  It gets a little fudgier, like vanilla fudge.  There's some ultra minerally white wine and a hint of grapefruit.

The palate still has the Ovaltine and toffee, but the whole thing feels jumbled, like a deck of cards that's been mushed together, some cards face up, some down, some bent in half.  It's a little bit drying, some salt in the back, some heat.  Maybe some limes.

Limes, malt, black pepper, and a sudden bitterness show up in the finish.

WORDS AND THINGS:
With the oak playing a quiet supporting role, the malt really gets a chance to shine here.  Like most Balvenies this whisky isn't complex, it's just a very good drink.  The nose has more character than the palate and the finish is very pleasant.  I recommend this one be served neatly, since water seems to muddle the best parts.  The more added, the bigger the mess.  The higher ABV serves it well.

As part of the joys and frustrations with single barrel releases, different barrels will have different characteristics and qualities -- see my other Balvenie 15yo SB reviews here and here.  I do think that most of their 15yo ex-bourbon Single Barrels will tend to fall in the 80s scores or B grades, so if you do find one of these former SBs you'll have to gauge whether you're willing to pay the asking price (see below) for that level of whisky.

Availability - Some bottles are lingering on the shelves at random retailers
Pricing - anywhere from $85 to $135
Rating - 87 (neat only)

Friday, February 5, 2016

Single Malt Report: Balvenie 12 year old Signature (Batch #5, 40%abv edition)

On Wednesday I reported on Balvenie's late 10 year old Founder's Reserve.  Today, I'm reviewing Founder's's replacement, the 12 year old Signature.

(source)
Like Founder's (and unlike Doublewood), Signature was a blend of ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casksm but it's NOT an ex-sherry finished product.  It came into the market in 2008 as Founder's was being phased out.  In 2012, the Signature was then phased out entirely.  Perhaps it was due to an aged stock shortage (2011 was a big year in volume sales for the industry) or the distillery wanted to prevent confusion between their two 12 year old whiskies.  In any case, out it went, never to be replaced by another married-rather-than-finished product.

On a side note, Balvenie's official site has an "Archive" page devoted to their former whiskies.  You'll recognize many of those products.  There's a Founder's Reserve page in there too.  But there is, conspicuously, no listing of the Signature.  This is especially weird because I remember their "Our Range" page listing the Signature even after it had been phased out.  You may start your conspiracy theories......now.

Today's sample was purchased from Master of Malt in the spring of 2013, thus it's the UK's 40%abv edition.


Distillery: Balvenie
Ownership: William Grant & Sons
Region: Speyside (Dufftown)
Type: Single Malt
Age: minimum 12 years
Maturation: ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks, married
Alcohol by Volume: 40%
Bottling year: 2011
Chillfiltered? Likely
Color added? Probably a little bit
Note: I tasted the Founder's Reserve and Signature side-by-side.

The Signature's color is noticeably darker than the Reserve's.  More age?  More sherry casks?  More e150a?

Lots of toasted grains arrive first in the nose.  Then caramel, strawberry candy, and salty seaweed.  There's cat fur (though that note has been questioned before), orange oil, and saltines.  After 20 minutes, a youthful cinnamon bark note shows up, and maybe some furniture polish.

Some surprising thickness to the palate, considering its ABV.  It's all honey, caramel sauce, and vanilla at first.  With air, the caramel sauce becomes toffee pudding.  Then there's toasted marshmallow and hints of circus peanuts and zesty oak spice.

That oak spice stays through the finish.  Vanilla, malt, and small moments of toffee and circus peanuts.  A decent length to it all.

The Signature felt bolder and fuller than the Founder's Reserve at times, but perhaps that's because more oak pokes through.  It feels a little heavier, despite the lower ABV.  But at the same time, this 12yo had more young notes than the 10yo.  I still liked it a lot, and at 43% it probably could be as good or better than the Doublewood.  It's yet another very nice drink from Mr. Stewart's lab.  Goodness, I remember when Founder's Reserve, Signature, and Doublewood could all still be found on LA's shelves in early 2011 for $45 or less.  Now we just have Doublewood pushing $60.

Availability - Secondary market, or perhaps on a lucky dusty hunt
Pricing - ???
Rating - 84 (the 43%abv edition may be a few points higher)