...where distraction is the main attraction.

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Grilling pizza

It gives me great pleasure to be the pizza maker in this marriage.  I make the dough from scratch, then divide it up and freeze the extra dough in individual balls.  Then I roll it out, put it on a pre-heated cornmeal-sprinkled pizza stone, bake it, top it, bake it, slice it, serve it, eat it.

I created my own recipe for a honey whole wheat dough via trial and error in 2003-2004.  I made it for myself until Kristen moved in.  Once she expressed enthusiastic approval, the recipe went into our regular cycle of bi-monthly dinners.  Very little change in the recipe, but lots of changes in the toppings.  And that's the way it went for about seven years.

Then during one fortuitous week, a couple months ago, we visited with two sets of friends with whom we made pizza.

The first one, Kristen's friend Jessica, GRILLED her pizza dough.  The idea startled me.  For the first few weeks of owning my grill, almost everything that I put on it had fused to the grates.  Now she was putting floppy pizza dough on her grill.  And, to my amazement, it worked!  And it was delicious.

Then we visited our (newly-married) pals, James and Jess, who had made a scratch dough recipe for the first time.  It was a very simple recipe, but I loved the texture of the dough.  As I watched it bake in the oven, I thought, "If it tastes good, this is the recipe that I would try to grill."  It tasted good.  Very very good.

Who dat?! What a shlub.

A couple of weeks later we tried the recipe.  Somehow we had run low on white all-purpose flour, so I had to throw in a bunch of whole wheat flour.  Nonetheless the texture was great.  Then came time for the grilling.  I'll admit, I held my breath as I eased the dough onto the grates.  But sure enough, it never stuck.  And the result was fantastic, like a Mediterranean flatbread pizza.

(At a later date, I'll post my Honey Whole Wheat dough recipe, which is for baking rather than grilling and results in a thinner crispy crust.)


RECIPE:

So let's get it to it.  Here's the recipe from the great chef Mark Bittman -- it can also be found in his book How to Cook Everything and also in this exact format on his blog --
3 cups all-purpose or bread flour, plus more as needed

2 teaspoons instant yeast

2 teaspoons coarse kosher or sea salt, plus extra for sprinkling

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1. Combine the flour, yeast, and salt in a food processor. Turn the machine on and add 1 cup water and the oil through the feed tube.

2. Process for about 30 seconds, adding more water, a little at a time, until the mixture forms a ball and is slightly sticky to the touch. If it is still dry, add another tablespoon or two of water and process for another 10 seconds. (In the unlikely event that the mixture is too sticky, add flour a tablespoon at a time.)

3. Turn the dough onto a floured work surface and knead by hand for a few seconds to form a smooth, round dough ball. Put the dough in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap; let rise until the dough doubles in size, 1 to 2 hours. (You can cut this rising time short if you’re in a hurry, or you can let the dough rise more slowly, in the refrigerator, for up to 6 or 8 hours.) Proceed to Step 4 or wrap the dough tightly in plastic wrap or a zipper bag and freeze for up to a month. (Defrost in the bag or a covered bowl in the refrigerator or at room temperature; bring to room temperature before shaping.)

4. When the dough is ready, form it into a ball and divide it into 2 or more pieces if you like; roll each piece into a round ball. Put each ball on a lightly floured surface, sprinkle with flour, and cover with plastic wrap or a towel. Let rest until they puff slightly, about 20 minutes.
Now, this procedure specifies using a food processor, which I really recommend.  I've been mixing my own honey whole wheat dough recipe by hand for years, but the next time I'll use the processor for it. For Bittman's recipe you can use a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, then a dough hook when it gets tough.

My notes:  You can use one packet of Active Dry Yeast instead of two teaspoons of instant yeast.  I use two cups of white flour to one cup of whole wheat flour, then white is used for all additional flour; resulting somewhere between a 2:1 to 3:1 ratio.  The more whole wheat flour, the more water will be required.  Add the water slowly or else you'll end up with a dough puddle.  Once pulled out of the processor, it needs very little kneading.  If you tend to make pizza for two folks, then this recipe is good for three separate six-slice pizzas.  You can freeze the extra dough for three to four weeks.  When you defrost it later, make sure you leave it out until it has that nice extra-soft texture.

Source

GRILLING:

Before attempting this, you should google "grilling pizza" and take a look at how other folks do it.  I've combined a bunch of different people's procedures into this one.

(Please note: I do this on a gas grill.  You may need to do some additional googling if you're using charcoal.)

-- Preheat the grill at a medium-low flame.

-- Don't roll your dough out too thinly.  You will need to pick it up without it falling apart.  So leave it with a little bit of sponginess.  In fact, I don't roll it out much, flattening it mostly with my hands.

-- Important:  Make sure that the top and bottom are floured.

-- Place the round-ish result on a pizza peel or big cutting board and bring it out to the grill.

-- Bring your toppings out where they can be easily accessed.

-- Place the dough on the grill.  Easier said than done, right?  The thicker the dough the easier it is to do.  I lift the dough with both hands, fingers spread wide, then ease it down that way.  If you're hip enough to have a pizza peel, then slide that dough onto the grill grates.

-- There's no exact minute-count here.  But at a medium-low heat give it two minutes, then take a peek at the underside.  After that, I like to rotate the dough every 15 seconds for another minute or two, just to make sure everything is cooked evenly.

-- When you like the look of the underside -- lightly-browned, brown, or charred -- flip it over.  It should flip very evenly.

-- Now throw your toppings on!  Quickly!  Okay, not so quickly that you're losing stuff into the flame.  A lower-stress approach would be to turn the heat down low.

-- When you're done with the toppings, rotate the pizza around halfway then bring the grill cover down.  If your heat is still medium-low then this might take only a minute.  If the heat is low, then a little more than a minute.  Again, I like to keep rotating the pizza a little bit every 15-30 seconds to make sure that it's evenly grilled.  (I have a cheap grill.)

-- When it's ready, scoop it back up onto your peel or cutting board.  Slice.  Eat.

Your pizza will look exactly like this.  (Source)

If you do give this a try, I hope you enjoy the process and the results.  Let me know if you have any questions, notes, or alternatives.  Thanks!

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Quick(ish) takes - Four films

In reverse alphabetical order:

TINKER TAILOR SOLDIER SPY (1979 BBC)

I always enjoy a good British espionage tale, so I was very excited to hear about the release of this year's cinematic take on John le Carre's Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy.  I hadn't read the book yet and didn't think that I could finish it in time for the film's release.

So I decided to do the next best thing: rent the 6-hour BBC TV series starring this man:

Source
Sir Alec Guinness plays the lead, George Smiley.  Though the series consists almost entirely of people sitting and talking over tea, Guinness's caramel-and-cognac voice makes it the experience painless.  The structure itself is pretty solid, so, if you can keep up with all of the names, the quiet drama is enjoyable too.  But the biggest pleasure is watching Guinness spin 47 different tones of quiet as Smiley finds the mole in The Circus.


SWEETGRASS (2010)

Hello. I am a sheep. Are you a sheep too? (Source)
Visual anthropologists Ilisa Barbash and Lucien Castaing-Taylor shot, edited, and produced this true document -- no interviews, no narration, no exposition -- of the final cowboy-led herding of three thousand sheep across southern Montana.  Incredibly beautiful, but not romanticized, this film gets its cameras down to sheep eye level to follow each struggle and way up to the top of lush mountains to view the fuzzy white dots under sweeping cloud shadows.

I had thought that this was going to be a quiet meditative film, so I queued it up late at night.  But what I didn't account for was what 110 minutes of sheep bleating would actually sound like.  I had to close our windows so the neighbors wouldn't wonder what the hell was going on in our apartment.  Right before I lowered the film's volume to a whisper, one of the two cowboys flat-out loses his patience with the herd and cusses them out so spectacularly that I had to rewind it for a second time to take notes.  The cowboy then calls his mother and whines to her in more detail any neurotic Woody Allen character.

So nothing here is glorified.  Sheep are graphically born and graphically perish.  The cowboys work very hard and clearly struggle with their labor and never address their unseen future.  I can recommend this, but only to those with the fortitude to listen to crying sheep all night.


RUN LOLA RUN (1998)

On the opposite end of the tonal and kinetic spectrum, an old favorite of mine: Run Lola Run!

Lola, you're going the wrong way! (Source)
Run Lola Run was such an enjoyable breath of fresh air when I first saw it thirteen years ago.  I'd just started film school.  Was working hard to hone story structure in my first few scripts.  But then I watched this by myself in a mostly empty theatre somewhere on The Westside.  It seared something in my neural impulses.  It was lightning fast, fun, and brilliant.  It simultaneously smashed and followed screenplay structure edicts.  It also got me hooked on trance music.

It has aged pretty well.  One can feel its pulse and fearless cinematic bliss throughout so much of our current visual entertainment.  With all of Tom Tykwer's great visuals flying around, Franka Portente holds the center.  She's more than just the physical embodiment of Red, Blue, and Green light.  She's a fantastic protagonist that will run through time and space to save the life of her doofus boyfriend.

If you've never seen it, rent it, turn off the lights, and crank up your speakers.


THE COMPANY MEN (2010)

I really liked this film.  Saw it twice in three days because I wanted to share it with Kristen.  Ostensibly, the film is about white collar employees who are laid off when a transportation company starts trying to appeal to its stock holders in the midst of the recession.  While that subject matter is bold -- no one else in the major American cinema is even attempting to address the effect of the recession -- what connected with me was its portrayal of the male ego in flux.

How do we define ourselves as men?  What happens when we fail at the one thing we're good at?  What happens when it has been taken from us?  It's not just a question for the upper middle class, nor is it just for blue collar workers.  It also affects artists, writers, and musicians.  When your art, your work, your bliss vanishes, what's left?  It's not just bourgeois, it's not just theory.  It's chemical.  It tints our reality.

One possible answer is to look beyond oneself, to see your family, friends, and peers.  We don't suffer alone, though we choose to.  I think many previous generations equated their jobs with their living being.  To me, this film begins to show where that falls apart and what happens to the male ego as a result.

It's not a perfect film.  The writing and directing can be a bit on-the-nose.  But its flaws are forgivable.

Source
Tommy Lee Jones is a treasure.  His face, alone, makes every film better.  It must be a pleasure for gaffers and DPs to light that glorious mug.  Heck, here's another pic:

Source
The other actors shine as well.  Ben Affleck has begun to master the ability to play a conceited A-hole for whom we still have sympathy; we want him to be broken down and built back up humbly.  Kevin Costner, yes that Kevin Costner, is enjoyable in a solid supporting part.  And I can't keep my eyes off of Rosemarie DeWitt, who plays Ben Affleck's wife.  Maybe she reminds me of this one real life wife I know.

Finally, I recommend this film because it was nice to see two folks from the Hollywood Left (Affleck and director John Wells) and two folks from the Hollywood Right (Jones and Craig T. Nelson) work together to make a film about matters far beyond politics.

Monday, September 12, 2011

Just because:


Single Malt Report: Tomintoul 16 year old

(Please see the updated review from 2016!)

Distillery: Tomintoul
Age: 16 years old
Region: Highlands - Speyside
Alcohol by Volume: 40%

From Royal Mile Whiskies:
Tomintoul - pronounced 'Tomintowel' - is Scotland's highest village and has become infamous for regularly being cut off due to heavy snow.

From The Bible:
The distillery was built in the 1960s and is modern in appearance, with large warehouses and no pagoda roofline.  The wildness of the surroundings contrasts with the delicacy of the district's malts.  Tomintoul has traditionally seemed the lightest among them in flavor, although it has a little more body than its neighbor Tamnavulin.



One tweet:

@kravitz_hubris Tomintoul 16yr '09, 5cL from UK. MUCH more complex than 10yr. Sherry subtle. Earthy grainy palate. Wet hay finish. #SingleMaltReport

8/20/11




Source
thekrav's notes:

Part of a 3-pack of 50mL Tomintoul bottles that I purchased at Fortnum and Mason in London.  I reported on the first bottle, the 10-year, here.

[A correction from the 10-year's notes: Tomintoul was recently purchased from White & Mackay by the smaller independent bottler, Angus Dundee Distillers.  Angus Dundee's only other distillery is the quite swell Glencadam.]

Compared to the 10-year, the 16-year is the wild child older brother.  Where the nose, palate, and finish of the younger whisky was as mild and inoffensive as some blended whiskies, the 16-year was hot stuff.  Peals of grains and wild vegetation push the sherry into the background in the nose and flavor.  The wet hay finish felt warm and lovely.  It has a thin texture like its brethren and a color of light honey.

The only thing disappointing about the drinking experience was that the little bottle only held 50mL!  There was actually a lot of other flavors zipping around that I couldn't really catch.  Thusly this is at the top of my list of additions to The Liquor Cabinet.

The pricing is very reasonable considering that it's only $8-10 more than the 10-year and it's at least twice (not real math) as good.  As a Speyside it's mellower than an Islay or Island whisky, yet it's more exciting and complicated than many bestsellers from its region.

Pricing - Good at $58
Rating - 88

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Please be good to each other.

Ten years ago, I sat on the living room floor in the three bedroom apartment that I'd shared with Sean and Kevin, watching the World Trade Center buildings burn and the Pentagon smolder......and I joked around, spouting conspiracy theories.  But my actions were a cover.

My brother was working in DC and lived near the Pentagon, I couldn't reach him.  And I was trying to remember if my dad's flight from Boston to LA was on the 10th or the 11th.  And I couldn't reach him.  So my first emotional response was to not deal with it.

The black smoke, the crumbling giants, the monstrous rolling gray sandstorm swallowing downtown Manhattan, were all so visually intense that, at first sight, it was easy to forget that there were thousands of human beings caught in it.  Thousands of families lost loved ones that morning.

I was not going to post today, but I already received an email first thing this morning spouting political poison.  The email was largely preaching to the choir and on any other day I'd probably agree with its sentiments, but I don't this morning.

The acrid political venom, the nonstop hate speech coming from every medium, and the monstrous rolling gray sandstorm of self-centered divisiveness swallowing the Left and Right make it easy to ignore how we're damaging our future.  Whether you think al Qaeda or shadowy conspirators were behind the 9/11 events, you have to consider that the attackers got what they wanted in the end.  We are weakened.  This country is no longer united.  We go out of our way to hurt and insult each other.  We do it with flamboyance when cameras, microphones, and computers are around.  And though, yes, I agree with one particular political side, I'm really tired of this.

It takes work to keep this American family together.  Nothing good comes from it splitting itself up for selfish reasons.  If we're all walking around as nothing but American Individuals then we are lazily shirking our responsibilities to each other.  We all need to be healthy, financially stable, educated, and loved.

I am thankful that my brother and father got to their homes safely ten years ago.  And I am thankful for all of the phone calls that came pouring in that day.  I feel blessed by the good news and support.  Thousands of others received the opposite and there's nothing that they can do to get back what and who they've lost.  So, no matter how you view this tenth anniversary -- the start of our fear-based living or a tragedy that killed members of our American Family -- please remember it by being unafraid, selfless, and loving.  And see how much of that you can take with you into the future.

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Single Malt Report: Tomintoul 10 year old

Distillery: Tomintoul
Age: 10 years old
Region: Highlands - Speyside
Alcohol by Volume: 40%

From Royal Mile Whiskies:
Tomintoul - pronounced 'Tomintowel' - is Scotland's highest village and has become infamous for regularly being cut off due to heavy snow.

From The Bible:
The distillery was built in the 1960s and is modern in appearance, with large warehouses and no pagoda roofline.  The wildness of the surroundings contrasts with the delicacy of the district's malts.  Tomintoul has traditionally seemed the lightest among them in flavor, although it has a little more body than its neighbor Tamnavulin.



One tweet:

@kravitz_hubris Tomintoul 10yr, 5cL bottle from UK. Light in color & feel. Cheese & cinnamon nose. Sweet start then salty. Brief finish. #SingleMaltReport
6/9/11




thekrav's notes:

Part of a 3-pack of 50mL Tomintoul bottles that I purchased at Fortnum and Mason in London.  The other two bottles will be reported on in the very near future.

Tomintoul was recently purchased by White & Mackay, so much of its product is likely used in W&M's blends which are very difficult to find in the US.  But many of Tomintoul's single malts can be found in well-stocked liquor stores around The States.

I drank this neat.  Its color, a light sunny gold.  The nose was uncut grass, cinnamon, and mild cheese.  The palate itself had less character than the nose, a mild sweet evolving into an inoffensive salty with an almost watery texture.  Its finish was as brief as this punctuation.

Not a rave review, but not terrible.  Though I truly do not understand the pricing -- I can get two bottles of a superior 12yr Speyside at the same price as one of these.  The good news is that the other two Tomintouls that I've tried are significantly better.

Pricing - Overpriced! at $50  (Ed. note 1/1/14: my my, how times have changed)
Rating - 71

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Single Malt Report: Balvenie 12 year old Doublewood

Distillery: The Balvenie
Age: 12 years old
Finish: Doublewood (matured in Bourbon oak 12yrs, finished in Sherry oak for a few months)
Region: Highlands - Speyside
Alcohol by Volume: 43%

Distillery Description, from Royal Mile Whiskies:
Right next door to its sister distillery Glenfiddich, and owned by the Grant family which founded both distilleries. Balvenie was built next to the castle of the same name in 1892, on the back of the success of Glenfiddich. The distillery still uses some of its own malt from barley produced on the Grant family farms. Although Glenfiddich is still the market leader in terms of sales, Balvenie is generally regarded as the stronger of the two in terms of quality across the range, which include some stunning wood-finished whiskies produced long before it became fashionable to do so.



I've tweeted twice about Balvenie 12 year old Doublewood:

@kravitz_hubris Balvenie 12yr Doublewood @ Oak Fire - priced hi, generous pour - Speyside creamy, a nutty start, sternum heating finish. #SingleMaltReport
3 June 2011

@kravitz_hubris Balvenie 12yr DblWd - A little water brings bananas & caramel to the forefront in both nose & palate. Preferred neat. #SingleMaltReport
7/24/11

thekrav's notes:

Balvenie is the next door neighbor to Glenfiddich, their land actually abutting, both owned by William Grant & Sons Ltd.  Lining up their 12 year olds, Glenfiddich is more popular, but Balvenie is richer.  I first enjoyed it at Oak Fire Grill on La Cienega.  It didn't come cheaply but the pour was a nice size.  It was a surprisingly smooth drinking experience, so much so that a bottle of it wound up in my liquor cabinet.

When served neat, the sherry is very up front in the nose.  It has a almond nutty start then gets very buttercreamy.  The finish is hot and full of stamina.

When served with a little water, bananas and caramel push the sherry nose aside.  They're also in the far forefront of the palate.  The finish mellows out and almost vanishes.

Personally, I'm not a fan of the banana flavor so I prefer it neat.  It's an easy Speyside so it makes a great gateway Scotch.

Pricing - Acceptable at $45
Rating - 84 (when served neat)