Reader Question: Glenfiddich 12 or Glenlivet 12?

In the midst of last night's usual bout with insomnia, I got to thinking about yesterday's post.  I had expended considerable hot air and HTML code about the two best-selling malts, but I didn't reach out to you all to find out what you thought.

So, Readers!  I know you're out there.  Google reports back to me your shoe size, mother's maiden name, and hamster's cholesterol count.  (Franklin Stewart of Tulsa, Oklahoma, you need to stop feeding  foie gras to Missy Pumpkin Cheeks, her LDLs are terrible.)

Which of these two, Glenfiddich 12 or Glenlivet 12, do you prefer?

I know some of you want to say "Neither", "Rum", "Death", or "Dalmore" (but I repeat myself, ZING!), but let's try to stick to GF12 and GL12.  You don't have to explain your answer, but it'd be a lot cooler if you did.

Single Malt Report: Glenlivet 12 versus Glenfiddich 12

LABOR DAY TASTE OFF!

After reporting on a pair of old $200+ whiskys last week, I thought it best to take a taste of two single malts priced for the workingperson.

Glenlivet and Glenfiddich (both Speysiders) have held the number 1 and 2 spots in the single malt market share for a couple of decades; almost 26% of the total market between them, as of 2010.  They also have the two largest capacities of the non-Roseisle malt whisky distilleries in Scotland.

Their prices also march in lockstep, often differing only 5% from each other.  The 12 years can often be found in the $25+ range, the 15 years at $40+, the 18 years at $65+, and the 21 years at $140+.  I'm not sure if that's collusion or coincidence, but either way 'livet and 'fiddich are two of the more affordable single malts on the shelf.

Of course, they're also at the minimum allowable ABV of 40% (any lower than that and they couldn't label themselves "Scotch whisky" as per the SWA).  And they're both chillfiltered and caramel colored in order to provide the most pleasing visual experience.

Pre-Taste Off Comments

I come to this Taste Off with biases.

I've never found Glenlivet 12 particularly interesting.  It has often seemed to me very polite with few discernable characteristics, almost like a quiet high-malt blend.  My opinion of it changed for the worse three New Years Eves ago when my brother and I went to a pair of pubs in Hollywood.  The 'livet 12 that was poured for me that night gradually went from bland to sour, then from sour to bitter.  I made a mental note not to buy a dram of it at a bar ever again (even though it's often the only single malt available at small bars out here).

I've reviewed Glenfiddich 12 before (here).  It's actually my most viewed Single Malt Report by a long shot.  That's partially due to Google Image searches, and partially due to the malt's popularity.  'Fiddich 12 has been my idea of a reliable cheap twelve-year malt that won't make a woman purr, but also won't draw out a pinched whisky face.  It also makes for a decent highball.

I will now attempt to set aside these inclinations and match 'em up, head to head...

TASTE OFF!

It's a head-to-head between two Single Malt heavyweights.

In one corner, wearing black & gold, owned by William Grant & Sons, stands
GLENFIDDICH 12YR

Brand: Glenfiddich

Ownership: William Grant & Sons

Region: Speyside (Dufftown)
Type: Single Malt Whisky
Maturation: American (ex-bourbon) and Spanish (ex-sherry) oak casks

Age: minimum 12 years

Alcohol by Volume: 40%

NEAT

Color -- The darker of the two, more gold than amber, with some reddish highlights

Nose -- American oak much stronger than the Spanish oak, white fruit juice (think apple, green grape, and pear), brief hint of ammonia, rich cream, maple syrup, whipped cream

Palate -- Vanilla, citrus (orange and lemon), sugar cookies (sort of reminiscent of good single grain whisky)

Finish -- Brief to moderate length, very similar to the palate, but grows sweeter

(Previous tastings found some gin-like herbal/mineral notes, as well as some mocha.)

WITH WATER (approx 28% ABV)

Nose -- Malty and a little sour, the citrus shows up here now, pleasant but mostly characterless

Palate -- Maple syrup, citrus, the bitter ammonia note now shows up here?, vanilla and whipped cream

Finish -- Same length, vanilla, maple syrup, cream, a little drying

Comments

When served neat, the nose shows more angles than the palate.  Doesn't improve with water, so you might as well just turn it into a refreshing highball instead.

In the other corner, representing Chivas Brothers & Pernod Ricard, wearing the light beige label and a red cap, stands

THE GLENLIVET 12

Brand: The Glenlivet

Ownership: Chivas Brothers (Pernod Ricard)

Region: Speyside (Livet)
Type: Single Malt Whisky
Maturation: American (ex-bourbon) oak casks

Age: minimum 12 years

Alcohol by Volume: 40%

NEAT

Color -- The lighter of the two, amber-gold.

Nose -- Light on the oak, a little salty/savory but inoffensive, apple flesh, molasses, hint of cheap cologne

Palate -- Vanilla, sugar cookies, black cherry soda, brown sugar

Finish -- Brief, the black cherry note mostly, a little vanilla, gains in sweetness

W/WATER (approx 28% ABV)

Nose -- Now fruitier (apples), but also more sour, laundry detergent, dried fruit?, some oak later on

Palate -- Water put it to sleep.  A little bit of the black cherry and granulated sugar.  Gets more bitter and sour with time.

Finish -- Drying and sweet, but otherwise quiet.

Comments:

It's interesting that the bitterness and sourness showed up only with the added water, and not when I had the whisky neat.  Interesting, but still unfortunate.  BUT this still gets a small step up from my earlier opinion of it.  It went from a low two-star to a mid two-star.  [Ed. note: it has actually dropped further in the year since.]  It's not bad, but I can't imagine ever jonsesing for The Glenlivet 12.

FINAL THOUGHTS AND RATINGS

The winner:  Glenfiddich 12

Another BUT.  As I just mentioned 'Livet 12 was a little better than I'd expected.  I'm also going to move 'Fiddich 12 a couple spots down the rankings list.  It's still a three-star malt -- in fact it's one of the models for the three-star rating -- but there are a couple close ones that have more character.

Ultimately, neither of these offend and their prices are considerably lower than the competition within their age bracket.  It's comforting to know that a single malt can be purchased for $25.  For now.

Glenfiddich 12yr
Availability - Everywhere!

Pricing - $24-$30

Rating - 82

The Glenlivet 12yr
Availability - Everywhere!

Pricing - $24-$30

Rating - 70

Friday Malty Ramblings

Well, after reviewing the fancy shmantzy whisky this week, I've decided to do a Taste Off of a pair of whiskys-for-the-rest-of-us.  By that I mean they cost 1/9th of the birthday whiskys, but are still single malts.  What could they be......?

Frankly it hasn't been neat whisky drinking weather here.  The temperature has been 90+ almost every day for the last two weeks.  That weather looks to continue for a little while longer, as will the weird humidity that has settled in.  Time to bust out the highballs.  <--- Wow, that just looks wrong.

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On Wednesday, Diageo announced their 2012 Special Releases.  (Oh wait, I thought they "do not make single malts for the aficionado to enjoy.")  For all my rants against Diageo, I actually do look forward to this announcement each year.

Here's the info summarized from their press release (via whiskyintelligence.com) --

Auchroisk 30yr 1982 - American & European Oak - 2,976 bottles - £230 (approx $370)
Brora 35yr 1976&1977 - American Oak - 1,566 bottles - £400 (approx $640)
Caol Ila 14yr 1997 - first fill sherry European Oak casks - "limited numbers" - £66 (approx $105)
Dalwhinnie 25 yr - "rejuvenated" American Oak hogsheads - 5,358 - £185 (approx $300)
Lagavulin 12yr - refill American Oak casks - "limited numbers" - £71 (approx $115)
Lagavulin 21yr 1991 - first fill sherry European Oak - 2,772 bottles - £350 (approx $560)
Port Ellen 32yr 1979 - refill American & European oak - 2,964 bottles - £600 (approx $960)
Talisker 35yr 1977 - refill American & European oak - 3,090 bottles - £525 (approx $840)

The positive:
These are all cask strength.  The Lagavulin 21 and Talisker 35 are really exciting.  It's only the second time they've released a Lag at that age, while this will be oldest official Talisker they've released.  The Auchroisk (never tried one) and Dalwhinnie (love the 15yr!) sound fun as well.

The negative:
The prices.  Not counting the annual Lagavulin 12 (whose price didn't change from last year's) and Caol Ila releases, with just a brief browsing one can find dozens (if not hundreds) of independent cask-strength single-cask releases of the same age priced lower than even the Auchroisk and Dalwhinnie.  The Brora price went up 14% from the 2011 Special Release reate.  The Port Ellen price almost doubled last year's.

I had a longer gripe about this, but decided against it.  The Special Releases were clearly not priced with the majority of whisky lovers in mind.  They are priced for connoisseurs with considerable disposable income.  I just hope that the people who buy 'em, enjoy 'em, and not take the whisky to the secondary market.

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I can't end on the negative, though!

pic found here

Now that is some garrrrrrrrrrrrrrnish.

I'm sorry.  Bad.  No more pirates.

Have a great weekend!

Birthday Malt Report: Glen Grant 34yr 1975 Old Malt Cask (Douglas Laing)

My birthday bottle shared my birth year, but was technically younger than me.  [Ed.: Unless one considers the maturation time in the barrel to be the gestation period-- Blue Text, stop being a party pooper. Blue Text, out.]  So what was I to do?

I had to find a 34 year old.  Just a dram though, since I'm not made out of Dalmore/Macallan/Diageo-Special-Release money.  Thankfully, MoM (Master of Malt) had the solution.  There are barrels and barrels of decent old Glen Grant being held and released by the indie bottlers.  Usually they're comparatively affordable too.  MoM just happened to be selling a dram.

This one was purchased blindly, as none of my usual whisky reviewers had weighed in on it.  My Glen Grant experience had been limited, so why not start at the top?!

So I poured it alongside the Balblair 1978.  And waited.  And waited.

Waiting for, like, ever.

Once the half hour was up, I focused on the Balblair.  After half a dram of that one, I was struggling to pull out individual characteristics out of that smoothie.  So I decided to switch over to the Glen Grant.  That way I could compare and contrast.

They were very different.  Glen Grant was less smooth, a little odder.  But in a good way.  I like the difficult ones (unless they reek of dead flesh and/or go by the name of Cutty Sark).  This one was rougher around the edges, the spirit was still barking out through the long life cooped up in the hogshead.

From Master of Malt

Distillery: Glen Grant
Ownership: Campari
Bottler: Douglas Laing
Age: 34 years (April 1975 - November 2009)
Maturation: refill hogshead
Region: Speyside
Alcohol by Volume: 50%
Chill filtered? No.
Caramel Coloring? No.
Limited Release: 278 bottles

The color is a little lighter than the Balblair; think Chardonnay with a little amber.  The first thing that hits in the nose is light peat floating in a swimming pool.  It's starts very spirity for an old malt, still holding onto some ethyl prickle.  Cocoa powder follows.  Then a chunk of toffee, vanilla extract, pear juice, and maple syrup.  It gets more oaky with time and the maple syrup gradually picks up force.  The palate begins with the same exact peat and pool combo. It's enjoyable to find a nose & palate that match up so closely.  The tannins can be a little drying.  Caramel sauce and vanilla follow, along with some ripe stone fruits soaked in brandy.  It finishes dry and strong.  Peat & cigarettes.  Kristen caught some dulce de leche and flan in there.  It's sweet, but fruity sweet.

Man, I love these old Highland/Speyside malts from back in the day when they did their own peated floor maltings.  It's peat, not PEAT.  The phenolics are seasoning, not the main dish.

While I don't promote smoking on this site, I can imagine that -- if you have the means -- this would match well with a smoke (tobacco, specifically) and a rich creamy dessert.

If you don't smoke, then this is good whenever, seriously.  If you own an old whisky, drink it, share it, celebrate it.  Our conscious lives are brief; delights are where we find them and where they find us.

Availability - UK & Europe only
Pricing - you'll have to do some snooping, but it should be in the $200 range
Rating - 93

Birthday Malt Report: Balblair 1978 (2008 Release)

Distillery: Balblair
Ownership: Inver House Distillers Limited
Age: minimum 30 years (1978-2008)
Maturation: American oak ex-bourbon barrels
Region: The Highlands (North)
Alcohol by Volume: 46%
Chill filtered? No.
Caramel Coloring? No.

On New Years' Day, I placed an order with Royal Mile Whiskies for my birthday whisky.  It was significantly more expensive than any other liquor I've purchased, so I decided that it would only be enjoyed on August Twenty-fourths.

Of course, that's before I really understood the challenges of whiskies falling apart when they sit in a bottle for years and years and years.  But as I learned more about whisky, and as the bottle was torching a hole in the back of the Whisky Closet, I figured out a way to avoid the bottle aging issue.  I would drink the entire bottle in one sitting.

Just kidding.

Or am I?

Much research went into this purchase, as with all of my purchases in general.  Somehow both Jim Murray and Serge Valentin agreed on the high quality of the Balblair 1978 vintage.  How often do those guys agree?  I haven't quantified it, but I'll guess the answer is......not often?

It wasn't until this month that I realized they were talking about the 2010 bottling and not the 2008 bottling that I had bought.

But I have no regrets.  This whisky is one big glass of honey, just like its owner.

The color is of a late harvest sauvignon blanc or moscatel.  The nose starts with big candied American oak notes, later moving into the spirit's character.  Vanilla beans and vanilla pudding.  Coconut cream.  Fresh apricot?  Fruit cocktail juice.  There's something in the delicious blurry zone between dusty black pepper and wood smoke.  Citrus (but not lemon nor sweet orange).  White pepper.  After an hour in the glass, vanilla and spices take over.  The palate is very very very smooth; pain-in-the-ass smooth for a reviewer trying to suss out separate notes.  It did indeed require a second pour.  It's a glass of molasses and honey.  Then tart orange, pepper, lots of vanilla sugar, and a tiny note of mild cheese.  It finishes sweet and sturdy.  There's citrus, molasses, ground black pepper, and a moment of lychee.

Kristen, aside from documenting the event, gave it a few tastes.  I think she had a similar challenge as I do in divining individual elements within silky smooth whisky: she said, "It tastes like whisky."  Yes, yes it does.  The perfect palate note for a birthday beverage.  It tastes like whisky.

Availability - UK only
Pricing - the 2010 edition is a little more pricey at $200-$220 (w/shipping, w/o VAT)
Rating - 93

Los Angeles Love, perfected

A city symphony in a three-minute digestible bite (of course) with triumphant electronic music (of course)!

The music is necessary so turn up the volume or put on headphones.  Press play.  Make sure HD is selected.  And click the full screen button next to the "HD".

You won't see a single human face, instead behold the results of the labor of millions who came here to find something better.  Did they actually find something better?  I don't know, but they built Los Angeles.

NightFall from Colin Rich on Vimeo.

My god, it's full of stars.

Birthday Recap!

A tangentially-related prelude:

This morning, our paraplegic military veteran neighbor, who is perpetually mad at his neighbors and probably the rest of the world, was sitting inside his car within our closed garage, playing the hell out of a harmonica.  The man has The Blues.

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THURSDAY EVENING

I sampled a number of new whiskies at an OC Scotch Club event in Fullerton.  I hope to report on some of these in the near future, especially since I'm probably going to do a 180-degree reversal on a previously reviewed single malt.  Which one could it be????

More importantly than all the booze stuff, it was great to spend some time with good people on a lovely evening.

I'll be talking this club up from time to time, if you're in the OC and like the amber spirits, you should stop by an event.  It's very laid back and President Bob is a very swell dude.

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FRIDAY AFTERNOON

I went to see Cosmopolis at its opening 2:30pm showing at a theatre one mile from my front door.  I smuggled in a couple ounces of Powers Gold Label, because.

I'd just read DeLillo's novel a few months ago, so the whole thing was still fresh in my mind.  Surprisingly, Cosmopolis fits easily into Cronenberg's oeuvre -- detached characters struggling within an alternate reality, compressed space, and portals portals portals everywhere.  I'm not saying that the film was great (it was all telling, no showing; and DeLillo's dense dialogue can be burdensome to a film's actors and audience) but the subject matter is timely and I'm game for any Cronenberg flick.  Plus the final scene actually achieved some level of emotion amongst the verbal histrionics.

FRIDAY EVENING

Back home, at 5pm, I brought out the birthday whisky.  A bottle of a 1978.  As well as a 34-year-old dram.  It was a grand two-hour slow whisky experience.

After the year I'd had, there was nothing quite like pouring myself a second helping of 30+ year old whisky straight from the bottle.  I will be reporting on the whiskys this week (Weds and Thurs, I think).

Kristen roasted a big chicken and baked a flourless chocolate cake.  Yes.  My wife.

I received many great gifts from my families.  And, yes, there was a whiskey gift that damn near blew my mind.  I didn't officially open it on Friday night because had I started it, I wouldn't remember a bloody thing the following day.  It will be opened soon, though...

I put on a DVD of Orson's F for Fake.  Kristen fell asleep.

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SATURDAY EVENING

To Hollywood!

We met my buddy Geoff near our old drinking grounds.  We went to Stout, where I had a good burger with an Old Rasputin from the tap.  Then we went to The Blue Boar Pub where I had glass of Highland Park 12, which keeps getting better every time I try it.

The main event was at Piano Bar.  I've thrice previously mentioned Piano Bar on this blog.  I'll say it again.  IT'S AWESOME.  Go there on Saturday or Sunday night to experience Brother Sal & The Devil May Care.  I often make the fifty-minute drive to do it and I feel the loss during the months when I don't.

So we went, meeting up with my buddy Sean.

Sean and I are twins

And Brother Sal seriously hooked us up.  He is a saint.

I had some great reliable glasses of whiskey (Blanton's, Redbreast 12, and Buffalo Trace), but it's the blues-rock-honky-tonk-saloon-soul dynamite issuing forth from the stage that always alters the air and space around me.

Aww yeah.

We left when the music stopped, around last call.  I can't remember the last time I stayed out until last call.

We're still catching up on sleep and I'll be drying out for a couple of days, but it was grand.  I have many great people, great experiences, and great things in my life.  And I am thankful for all of them.