Single Malt Report: Laphroaig 21 year old Cask Strength (2008)

Until the day before Mathilda's first birthday, I'd decided to select the two Ledaig 1973s as the celebratory samples and to end it there.  But then I realized that my celebratory sample stash was much bigger than it used to be, and how many occasions would be bigger than this?  There needed to be a third sample, and I knew exactly what it would be.

Two-and-a-half years ago, I attended a Laphroaig event with the LA Scotch Club.  There were this many Laphroaigs:

Best club event, ever.  And that gent in the gray label -- sometimes called the Heathrow Laphroaig because 750 bottles were sold exclusively at Terminal 5 -- was the best Laphroaig I'd had, easily one of the best whiskies I'd ever experienced up until that point.  Though everyone I had spoken to at the event had chosen it as their favorite of the bunch, there was inexplicably a quarter of the bottle remaining at the end of the night.  So I made off with my own sample.  And that sample is this sample:

Here's to Mathilda.  Here's to Kristen and I, we two noobs, keeping her alive for an entire year.  Slàinte mhath!

Distillery: Laphroaig

Owner: Beam Suntory
Type: Single Malt
Region: Islay

Age: minimum 21 years
Release Year: 2008
Distillation Year: 1987 or earlier
Maturation: unknown, but 9 casks were utilized

Chill-filtration? No
Caramel colored? No

Alcohol by Volume: 53.4%
Limited Release: 750 in UK, 1427 in US

Color - Light gold

Nose (neat) - Many smoked things: salmon, ham, mesquite wood, orange peels, and probably peat.  Mango-infused lapsang souchong followed by the plastic siding of my childhood home.  There's lemon marmalade, orange oil, peated cream puffs, and a whole street of Scottish chimneys.  It's also very floral; blossoms, not soap.  Cognac, ocean, and a hint of caramel sauce.

Nose (with water) - Peels the peat back, turning this into a politer whisky.  Malty, creamy, some vanilla, peaches, and oranges.  A distant ship's smoke on the horizon.

Palate (neat) - Somehow both massively fruity and massively smoky.  Deep dark char meets tropical fruit punch.  There are also peaches, plums, cherries, oranges, honey, and key lime pie.  Mint and basil and whipped cream.

Palate (with water) - Even more floral and fruity esters.  Lots of citrus peel, cherries, and rose petals.  Small nibbles of peats and a subtle bitterness.  More sugars and vanilla gradually emerge.  Very graceful from start to finish.

Finish (neat) - Enormous.  And it's the peat that rules the night.  There's everything peat-related: moss, roots, dirt, char, ash, and smoldering coals.  Then brine, seaweed, menthol, and chili oil.

Finish (with water) - Fruitier and more aromatic.  Sweeter as well, with just a peep of good bitterness.

This whisky somehow brings together both categories of official Laphroaigs: the graceful fruiters like the 18 & 30 and the peat behemoths like the old 10CS & 25CS.  When neat it leans more towards the latter, then with water added it tilts towards the former.  But, man, what a finish.  It's that finish that'll make me recommend drinking this one neatly.  Though, it's a stunner no matter how one chooses to drink it.

I'm not going to ruin the glow in the report by talking about its four figure price.  I won't pick nits, it's a pretty close competition between the 25yo CS (2011 edition), the 40yo, and this 21yo CS for my favorite all time Laphroaig.  If you have a bottle of this in your collection, know that it's a treasure, a special occasion whisky, an experience you won't soon forget.

I have no idea how I'm going to celebrate the completion of Mathilda Year Two.

Availability - A few retailers, the occasional auction

Pricing - in 2012 it was $400-$600, today it's $1000-$1500

Rating - 93

Single Malt Report: Ledaig 14 year old 1973-1987 Sestante

Okay, the 24 hour mystery is now over.  Yes, I had a sample of full strength 1973 Ledaig.

This 14 year old Ledaig, bottled by the much revered but now shuttered Italian independent bottler Sestante, received raves from the Malt Maniacs so it arrived in my glass with a reputation.  But I knew that no matter if this whisky was disappointing or great I was very thankful for this opportunity.  (Many many thank yous to Cobo!)

(source)

Distillery: Ledaig
Bottler: Gordon & MacPhail
Series: Connoisseur's Choice
Age: 14 years (1973-1987)
Maturation: ???
Region: Isle of Mull
Alcohol by Volume: 56.3%

Its color is amber, lighter than yesterday's Ledaig.  The nose immediately brings to mind three things:  A christmas tree farm.  The docks of a fishing village.  A grove of fruiting lemon trees.  Then highlights of grilled meat, soil, and kiln follow next.  With time some bold notes of cruciferous leafy vegetables, brine, and cow patties arise.  With water, there's noticeably more barn.  Then pineapple and burning hay.  While the nose is big, the palate is larger.  Such depth to its char and phenolic swamp...but then a sweet fruity twist at the end.  Fresh herbs in manure.  Sea salt and wasabi.  Time and water bring out lemon oils and candy canes.  That wasabi bite is in the very long finish even before the water is added.  There's a lot of brine and smoke with California sauvignon blanc (believe it or not) to balance it out.  Water and time makes it very rich and syrupy.  Stroopwafels!

It is indeed great.  While I prefer the nose on yesterday's G&M Ledaig (at any strength), this one smells very good.  But the Sestante's palate beats the snot out of the G&M's.  While the 14yo's kiln smoke is near monolithic on the tongue at first, herbs and fruits and sugars make brief appearances to balance things out.  Water and time in the glass do a few nice things, but this stuff is still so brawny after 28 years in the bottle.  There's a 40%abv version of this, but I personally wouldn't even bother (if I had that kind of scratch) because the power is the main attraction.

I will have to dig deep to try and top this one.  Tomorrow, I'll attempt it.

Availability - Happy Hunting?

Pricing - Yoooooge

Rating - 91

Single Malt Report: Ledaig 16 year old 1973 Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice (brown label)

I believe this is the actual bottle,
courtesy of Andy Smith of LASC and LAWS

In 1973 Tobermory Distillery was called Ledaig.  Or maybe in 2015, the Ledaig Distillery was called Tobermory.  This 1973 bottling has the old Connoisseurs Choice label on the outside and the heavily-peated Isle of Mull spirit on the inside.  The distillery had sat closed for 42 years before it was reopened in 1972.  And then it went bankrupt again in 1975, closed, then reopened in 1978, then closed in 1982, then reopened in 1989, as Tobermory.  The facility has bounced between the two names a few times in its history.  While the current ownership has kept the Tobermory name, they have labelled their peated single malt brand as Ledaig.

Today's specific whisky, bottled over a quarter century ago with a label that just looks like essence of Ledaig, was distilled when the property (and the company that owned it) was called Ledaig.  I anticipate there being some peat involved.

My sample label, FWIW.

Distillery: Ledaig
Bottler: Gordon & MacPhail
Series: Connoisseur's Choice
Age: 16 years (1973 to 1989 or 1990)
Maturation: "oak casks"
Region: Isle of Mull
Alcohol by Volume: 40%
Sample purchased from the LA Scotch Club.

The color is light gold.  The nose is unbelievably massive.  And I'm not just casually throwing in that overused adverb.  I had no idea that a whisky watered down to 40%abv could have a sniffer so expansive.  It starts with peated mint chip ice cream.  And also peat.  And then some peat.  Antiseptic and roses.  Bandaids and baklava.  Cinnamon candy, cologne, and mint leaves.  After twenty minutes, a note of extra nutty sherry emerges.  Then vinyl and burning plastic.  Seaweed rotting at the beach and, curiously, raspberries.  After 45 minutes, the stuff is still alive, emitting notes of oranges, cigarettes, and red lollipops.  I was afraid to actually drink it because then it would be gone. :(  But I did so anyway because whisky is for drinking.  Here on the palate it feels much more like a 40%abv whisky, thinner and briefer than the nose.  It starts with root beer barrel candies, a note that remains present throughout.  Then there's smoked seaweed, smoked brown sugar, figs, sweet peat stuff, sea salt, and a light bitterness.  It stays vivid even after 30-45 minutes of air, with smoked almonds, cinnamon, salt, and peat moss hanging around.  Those root beer barrel candies and figs make up much of the finish, followed by mesquite barbecue.  A salty note expands with time.  Gradually a mellow bitter note moves in with the salt.  Some tart lemons pop up.  Just a moment of sweetness.

What a tremendous nose.  I really don't know what distilleries did differently back then to make possible an olfactory landscape at the lowest legal ABV.  Today there are few full strength whiskies that approach this nose's depth.  The palate and finish are more realistic, though still of considerable quality.  This isn't a crowd pleaser, but it certainly will make Ledaig fans (all six of us) very happy.  Goodness gracious, what if I could find a '73 Ledaig that was bottled at full strength...

Availability - Happy Hunting!

Pricing - probably north of $500 :(

Rating - 90

Mathilda Year One, complete

The first year of Mathilda is officially in the books.  Most days I feel as if I have aged three decades in that time.  The New Parent Adrenaline wore off at Month Three, but I drag my dad ass out to the gym anyway most weekdays.

Mathilda, the girl of a thousand faces, 999 of which are my favorite (the crying one being subtracted).  She is becoming a person very quickly and that fact becomes less terrifying every day.  That doesn't mean I'm turning into a better father.  This whole parent business is impossible.  I fail so often every single day, that in order to survive I've learned to just yield to the whirling forward momentum.  Mathilda agrees to nothing, gives no quarter, every emotion a thunderclap.  Just my luck, a Kravitz.  But she loves with an intensity no rational adult could muster.  She makes me laugh every day.  I never laughed every day before.  I marvel at her curiosity, her appetite, her delights, her physical strength (if she lifted the couch to reach a blueberry underneath, I wouldn't be surprised).

No, there is no way I can do this experience justice via whisky reviews.  But Diving For Pearls turned into a whisky blog years ago, so there shall be whisky.  Before the possibility of Mathilda entered this reality, I earmarked a bottle for my child's first birthday.  A whisky I had once tried and loved.

Or, with a Mathilda filter:

While I won't be reviewing the Glen Spey this week (mmmm, you got your rye in my single malt!), I did haul out three special samples for this week.  No, these aren't Littlemills (as I did for her arrival last year), but they do all begin with the letter L.  No, they're not Lismore, because I love my daughter.  Nor Ladyburn, because that sounds like shaving accident in the shower.  Tune in tomorrow...

Fail...er...Adventures in Blending: Salvaging a Springbank

As documented in my previous post, I recently encountered a problematic single cask bottling of Springbank, a bottling whose main characteristic was ethyl heat.  Applying water did help open the nose slightly, but the palate just became watery.  At the end of the tasting that led to my review, 2.5 fl. oz. of the whisky remained.  After taking 6 months just to consume the first five ounces, I didn't have much interest in drinking the rest as is.  So I decided to do three separate vattings to see if I could salvage my whisky.

Historically, my home vattings cannot be described as successes.  The only one I've enjoyed drinking was the ultra-high-rye bourbon I built last summer.  But failure never stopped me.  Actually that is not true.  Failure always stops me.  But not with whisky!  So I made my three vattings and set them aside to compare with the original whisky then......forgot about them for four weeks.  At least that left the ingredients more time to commingle and merge.  Here are the results:

Whisky #1

Springbank 13yo 1999 Rum Cask for Whiskykanzler

The original whisky, tasted again without looking at my previous notes.

Stats:
Approximate ABV: 57.1%
Quantity bottled: 30mL
Resting time: 28 days

Nose - Oatmeal, pine, brown sugar, and a slight industrial edge that I don't remember being there before.  It's still one of the hottest noses I've ever experienced.  Smaller notes of band aids, honey, canned peaches, and polyester.

Palate - Heat.  Peat reading as smoke.  Caramel.  Coconut.  A hint of Mount Gay-like rum.  Slightly farty.

Finish - A sweetness that gets very aggressive, even with all of the ethyl burn.  Some citrus, rum, and smoke.

Verdict: Nose was better than I remembered it to be, but the palate is still a bum.  Suddenly way too sweet in the finish.

Grade Range: C/C+

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Whisky #2 

3 parts - Springbank 13yo 1999 Rum Cask

1 part - Macallan Cask Strength (60.1%abv version)

Goal: Perk up the whisky with a little bit of full strength ex-sherry malt.  This version of Mac's CS is the only recent one I've enjoyed, and was also the only high strength sherried whisky I had open.

Stats:
Approximate ABV: 57.9%
Quantity made: 15mL
Resting time: 28 days

Nose - Something between strawberry bubblegum and plaster.  Vanilla simple syrup.  Plastic toys.  Graham crackers, a hint of lime, and blue raspberry sno-cone syrup.  Less ethyl, despite the higher abv.
Palate - Peppery, peatier.  Still very hot, but more drinkable.  Toasted grains, golden raisins, and caramel.
Finish - Salt and tart with a peep of sherry.  Blackberry syrup?  Mildly sweet, but very acidic.  Gets weird on the tongue and I can't wash it off.

Verdict: Somewhat successful.  A better (and very zany) nose is the highlight.  The odd finish holds it down.
Grade Range: B-

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Whisky #3 

3 parts - Springbank 13yo 1999 Rum Cask

1 part - Lagavulin 16 year old official bottling

Goal: Perk up the whisky with a little bit of quality peated malt, yet not turn it into a peat beast.

Stats:
Approximate ABV: 53.6%
Quantity made: 15mL
Resting time: 28 days

Nose - An early puff of rotten meat exits quickly.  Lime and a light dusting of peat take over.  Also lemon zest, hot concrete, and a hint of mango appear.
Palate - Much peatier and saltier, pulling all the way out to Lagavulin territory.  But then it takes a quick turn into saccharine and ash.
Finish - Almost all Nutrasweet.  A whisper of peat shows up, only to be drowned in rotten milk.

Verdict: Nope.
Grade Range: D+/C-

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Whisky #4

6 parts - Springbank 13yo 1999 Rum Cask

1 part - Lagavulin 16 year old official bottling

1 part - Macallan Cask Strength

Goal: Perk up the whisky by adding small touches of both rich sherried whisky and well-aged peated whisky.

Stats:
Approximate ABV: 55.7%
Quantity made: 15mL
Resting time: 28 days

Nose - Band aids, prunes, orange blossoms, Turkish honey, dried leaves, and a little bit of tropical fruit too.  Somehow the sherry reads the loudest on this one.
Palate - Peppery and fruity sweet.  Lots of citrus and stone fruits.  Rose blossoms, watermelon Jolly Ranchers, and peat cinders.  Peeps of sherry and vanilla.  The least hot of all the palates.
Finish - Peat and oranges.  Tiny bits of tart and sweet.  Least weird of the finishes, though it still leaves a strange aftertaste.

Verdict: Success.  I would happily drink this again.  The issue with the finish keeps this one from flying.
Grade Range: B

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With two successes and one failure this is the best luck I've ever had with vatting single malts.  One element that ran through all three vattings was a strange residue/texture in the finish.  Perhaps it was due to the Springbank spirit or the rum cask itself.

As always, I recommend taking it easy with incorporating a peated whisky into a vatting, especially if you're adding one of the big Islays.  I'd recommend being cautious with adding sherried whisky as well, though a blend should be able to take on sherry better than peat.  Ultimately, I do think many subpar single malts can be salvaged to a point with blending.  Just keep in mind, the quality of your final product often lies in the quality of your ingredients.

Single Malt Report: Springbank 13 year old 1999 Whiskykanzler (Fresh Rum Cask)

Here's the third of the three whiskykanzler single cask splits with Florin (a prince) and MAO.  The Arran refill sherry cask was reviewed last week, the Springbank fresh port cask was on Monday.

I'll get directly to the point.  This Springbank single rum cask couldn't be more different than the single port cask.  On one hand, that sort of variety can be a great thing. The Great Whisky Experience would get really boring and writing these reviews would get really boring if everything tasted the same.  Diversity is grand!  Yet, sometimes that same variety yields results that aren't exactly optimal.  For instance...

Distillery: Springbank
Bottler: Whiskykanzler
Type: Single Malt
Age: 13 years
Distilled: October 8, 1999
Bottled: May 22, 2013
Maturation: Fresh Rum Cask
Cask #: 307
Bottle count: 216
Alcohol by Volume: 57.1%

I love Springbank and I'm often impressed with the results from rum cask maturation, so this seemed like a perfect marriage.  But apparenly, marriage is a little more complicated than that.  When I took my first sniff and sip of this whisky, all I got was HOT ETHYL BURNING.  Even my esophagus felt scorched.  So unlike the port cask, this one wasn't consumed, er, vigorously.  These notes are from a tasting six months after that first sniff.

NEAT
Its color is a mild amber.  The nose is hot.  Ashy peat, band aids, yeast.  Very little rum shows up; when it does it's as small notes of toffee and fried plantains.  Wet grass and wet moss.  With more than a half hour of air, the whisky finds hints of jasmine, powdered sugar, and lemon-scented bathroom cleaner.  The palate, hooooooo, very tight and hot.  Salt, pepper, tannins, and a green woody bitterness.  Rocks and soil.  A wee hint of sweetness.  Flat peat and white vinegar.  The finish is lengthy but not in a good way.  Heat.  Pepper, sand, and soy sauce.

Oooookay.  How about we douse this flame a little bit?

WITH WATER (~46%abv)
The nose is simultaneously candied and farmy.  Stickier sugars and caramels than before.  Baked bread, orange peel, peat moss, and cherry lollipops.  Burnt plastic.  Flowers in dung.  Not much change in the palate.  Maybe more sweetness.  Still astringent with an off bitterness.  Peat getting fainter.  Barley shows up.  Maybe some sand.   The finish is bready and beachy.  The bread has been burned in the toaster.  Short note of caramel.  Loooooong note of bitterness.

A slight improvement on the nose.  Maybe some more water is needed to open the palate up?

WITH WATER (~40%abv)
More hay and farm animals in the nose.  The fruit seems to be slightly more tropical.  Lavender and orange blossoms.  Dove soap.  The palate?  *shrug*  It's watery.  Not much remains.  Stale bread, vinegar, salt, hint of soap.  Moments of peat and vanilla.  The finish is a little sweeter and aromatic, less bitter.  Peat-ish.

There's nothing to unlock in the palate.  It's not that it's closed.  There's just no there there.  The nose is fine (especially with a little bit of water), saving the whisky from tanking all together.  Had they not listed the fact this single malt was from a fresh rum cask, I would have guessed it was a 3rd or 4th fill puncheon.

After this tasting, I had 2.5 ounces left.  An idea formed immediately.  A question: Could this whisky be salvaged?  Find out the answer tomorrow!

Availability - Sold out at the retailer

Pricing - €69

Rating - 74 (with just a little water)

Single Malt Report: Springbank 13 year old 1999 Whiskykanzler (Fresh Port Cask)

Another borrowed bottle photo. Tomorrow we'll return to my photos.

Here's Florin's label if that's of any comfort.

Last week I reviewed a Whiskykanzler single cask Arran.  This week I'm reviewing two more Whiskykanzler single casks.  But this time, the whisky is from the Springbank distillery.  These two come from different cask types and result in two very different whiskies.  All three of these bottlings have an illustration by Ben Gash, who, if I'm reading correctly, also did the voice dubbing for Fox Mulder for the X-Files in Germany.  The different label illustrations can be lined up to make a little diorama panorama of a town.  It's a nice touch, and never gets cutesy or ironic like That Boutique-y Whisky Company's illustrations.

Today's review is of the Springbank aged in a "Fresh Port Cask".  The bottle count tells me that this wasn't a whole actual port pipe (which are enormous), so either they split one with another bottler or used a hogshead that was seasoned with port.  I'll guess the latter.  If you know more, please let me know in the comment section.

Like the single cask Arran reviewed last week, this bottle was split between Florin (a prince) and My Annoying Opinions.  Mr. MAO, who posted his review two months ago, liked it quite a bit.  But would I???

Distillery: Springbank
Bottler: Whiskykanzler
Type: Single Malt
Age: 13 years
Distilled: October 1, 1999
Bottled: May 22, 2013
Maturation: Fresh Port Cask
Cask #: 246
Bottle count: 312
Alcohol by Volume: 56.3%

NEAT
Its golden color has rosy and maroon highlights.  There's also some sediment floating around in it, and I'm a sucker for schmutz in my whisky.  The port is very well integrated on the nose.  The chocolate and dried grass notes arrive simultaneously.  Leather jacket then hot cereal.  Grape and raspberry jam meet yeast and barley.  Some Heath Bar, too.  It's not hot at all, unlike the Arran.  After thirty minutes there's a gorgeous floral blast, followed by peels of lemon, citron, and apple.  The palate is hotter than the nose, but still nicely textured.  Some stewed or baked raisins.  An herbal fruit punch.  Flourless chocolate cake, dark cherries, and just a touch of smoke.  A hint of welcome sulphur.  There's some sweetness from the wine but the whisky remains very grassy.  Sweet and heat for much of the long finish, then bitter almond, bitter chocolate, and sour cherries.

WITH WATER (~46%abv)
The nose gets grape-ier.  Plums, cherry juice, a hint of manure, a rubber band.  Still some barley in there.  Maybe some smoke.  Definitely a cow (in boots) stomping on the grapes.  The palate calms down.  The elements merge to the point that they're tougher to separate.  There's a farm/hay note and silky fruit syrups.  Aromatic bitters.  Starts to get very sweet after a while.  The finish remains very sizable but gets sweeter and simpler.  Some more port starts to show.

I liked this a lot.  It was a good thing that I put aside two ounces to review because the rest of it vanished quickly.  I've started to warm up to port + whisky in general, but I think the full maturation (rather than a finish) in a port cask did the trick here as the parts are integrated into a solid whole.  Adding water doesn't improve things nor totally ruin them, though it does bring out more sweetness than my palate cares for.  The nose is the whisky's best part, but the palate is very good as well.

This single cask is sold out, but if you find one at an auction or in your own cabinet then drink it and don't flip it!  And when you drink it, I recommend it served neatly.  It may please both port fans and Springbank fans alike.  Well done, Whiskykanzler.

Availability - Sold out at the retailer

Pricing - €69

Rating - 89 (when neat)