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Region: Speyside (Dufftown)
Release Year: 2012
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Duncan Taylor & Company registered their cask brokerage business in 1938, and after passing from Scottish to American to Scottish ownership, they celebrated their 70th anniversary in 2008. To mark the occasion, their blenders created a vatted malt from two casks of 1967 vintage single malt, one from Glenfarclas and the other from Highland Park. At full strength, that combination turned out 375 bottles of 46.3%abv whisky. During a lovely quiet Taste Off this week, that 41 year old malt served as the aperitif to the Port Ellen that I reviewed on Wednesday.
Distilleries: Glenfarclas and Highland ParkNOTES
The nose starts with a mix of rope, brine, apple skins, and lemon cake in the front; barley, cinnamon, and rye bread in the back. After 40+ minutes, the whisky develops subtler notes pear juice, guava juice, and musty old cask.
Menthol, black walnuts, and toasty oak greet the palate first, followed by raw almonds, mint leaf, Good & Plenty candies, and tart apples.
The finish registers sweeter than the palate with sugary apples, apricots, and Good & Plenty. Bitter tobacco, bitter chocolate, and iron appear in later sips.
WORDS WORDS WORDS
A very modest whisky to bottle for the occasion, this 41yo is so gentle next to the 25yo Port Ellen, reading even lighter than its ABV, that I cannot bring myself to dilute it any further. I have a feeling that one of these casks was getting woody, while the other still offered a bit of youth, because those two sides separate here and there throughout the tasting. But it would still be a very nice everyday drinker, as one can appreciate the whisky's lack of bombast.
Availability - Secondary market?
Pricing - ???
Rating - 86
Distillery: Port Ellen
Ownership: Diageo
Region: Port Ellen, Islay
Bottler: Signatory Vintage
Age: 25 years old (11 Nov 1982 - 16 May 2008)
Maturation: refill sherry butt
Cask number: 2846
Outturn: 234 bottles
Alcohol by Volume: 59.3%
(from a bottle split)
Scotch Malt Whisky Society called this cask "Gateway to Narnia" because someone over there thought the whisky smelled like an old wardrobe. If a whisky producer can fashion that note in a whisky, they can call it whatever they want. Of course another SMWS noser found only acrylic paint, and "Bob Ross's Stained Pants" doesn't have the brightest ring, so C.S. Lewis it is.
That's some good intro right there.
Anyway, this cluster shambles further back into the past with this 1993 refill hogshead (yes, again) that disgorged some high-octane single malt. At 59.7%, it may be the hottest pour in the cluster. Time to see if my delicate palate survives.
Distillery: Teaninich
Ownership: Diageo
Region: Northern-ish Highlands
Bottler: Scotch Malt Whisky Society
Age: 16 years old (Feb 1993 - 2010)
Maturation: refill hogshead
Cask number: 59.39, "Gateway to Narnia"
Outturn: 255 bottles
Alcohol by Volume: 59.7%
(from a bottle split)
NEAT
The nose's first note, potpourri, thankfully vanishes within a minute. It's replaced by a whole mishmash of notes: cloves, raw almonds, bananas, cologne, saline, plaster, strawberry jam, and grapefruits. The palate is more focused. It starts with plum skins, dried leaves, and a hint of peppery smoke. It gets tarter (out-of-season blackberries?) with time, while also gaining a bold herbal bitterness. It finishes tangy and peppery, with subtle herbal and mineral notes in the back.
DILUTED to ~46%abv, or 1¾ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
Much better nose here, with a mix of barley, raw walnuts, raw almonds, orange peel, and a hint of palo santo. The palate almost mirrors the nose, but adds a Heath Bar and a hint of the herbal bitterness. That bitterness glows into the finish merging well with tart citrus and cracked pepper notes.
WORDS WORDS WORDS
Unconvinced about this whisky when neat, I'm quickly sold once it's diluted. It reminds me of Monday's official 17yo, with their related styles. No more pretty flowers, darkness is creeping in. And now I am intrigued, with no idea what happens to Teaninichs when they get considerably older. Will they continue in this earthier direction, or add fruits, or let oak smother it all? After a happy diversion next week, I will continue the cluster with "considerably older" Teaninichs.
Availability - Sold out during the first Obama administration
Pricing - ???
Rating - 87 (once diluted)
Staying in 1999 — a good year for film and me — this cluster hops over to Hunter Laing's celebration of the Old Malt Cask brand's 20th anniversary. Said celebration was actually in 2018, but this Teaninich was distilled in '99. The whisky was, yes, also from a hogshead. I hope it has a bit of the previous '99 Teaninich's darker side, because that fit in well with my palate. Or at least, please whisky gods, let this be more about the malt than the cask.
This week, the Teaninich cluster heads back to the '90s with a trio of single malts that have more age on them than the first eight members of this series.
Leading off is a 17yo from back when Diageo's annual special releases were still kinda special and didn't lean so heavily into cask fuckery. In 2017, the spirits conglomerate issued their only Teaninich special release to date. And the whisky came from 100% refill hogsheads! Of course the price was well over $300, thus many bottles remain on shelves seven years later, and occasionally a few go on sale for almost reasonable prices.
I almost bought a bottle this year, but couldn't convince myself to dish out over $200 for a 17 year old whisky. It also would have been a blind buy, a practice that has not consistently produced positive results for me. Instead, I went in on a bottle split. So here I go, actually drinking the whisky.
DILUTED to ~46%abv, or 1¼ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
Seaweed and dried herbs now lead the nose, with marzipan, toasted marshmallow, grapefruit, and a rosy hint following. The mouthfeel thickens well here, while the palate dishes out more tartness than sweetness, with broad doses of umami and herbal bitterness as well. It finishes tart and peppery, with a lingering note of orange pith.
WORDS WORDS WORDS
Though not peated, this whisky has an herbal/earthy side that sets it apart from the other Teaninichs in this cluster thus far, and in the best of ways. It's darker, less perky. It fights a little bit, then offers depth. I hope some of the remaining cluster pours have some of this (perhaps older?) style, and aren't overpowered by oak. This is a bottle I would happily buy, at half its price.
Availability - Retailers around the First WorldA parcel of 2006 Teaninich casks once called a Cadenhead dunnage its home until the bottler released them all(?) out into the world between 2016 and 2018, all at 10 or 11 years of age. I reviewed a sample of one of these casks, two-and-a-half years ago, and loved it. And now I have samples of two others, one exclusive to the US and the other to Poland. Apparently the Polish cask is magical:
BEHOLD, the first hogshead to have ever produced 480 bottles! Impressive, considering that hogsheads hold 250 liters at the start of the maturation process. I need to get me a magical hogshead to fill with my 401k balance.
The American cask is less magical, but it's another Teaninich hoggie with a serious Angel's Share, losing almost 30% of its contents in just 11 years:
Today, the two will face off! The Magical Polish Hog vs The Thirsty American Angels!
Teaninich 11 year old 2006 Cadenhead, for BestWhiskyMarket Poland, 55.7%abv
NEAT
The nose starts off very pretty, with floral apple skins, flower kiss candy, grapefruit gummy bears, Rainier cherries, and guava. It gains some fun edges, like Tapatio, fennel seed, and lemongrass, with time. The palate is very very hot and tight, with bitter citrus, serrano chile oil, nectarines, simple syrup, and a floral hint. It finishes hot as well, with bits of lemons, serrano chile oil, sugar, and some bitterness.
DILUTED to ~46%abv, or 1¼ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
Hmmm, different nose now. Light blue Mr. Sketch marker, cinnamon red hots, and roses, with hints of cocoa powder, vanilla, and orange candy in the background. The citrus gets sweeter and tarter in the palate, and the floral note remains. It gets bitterer and more mineral with time. That mineral note stays for the finish joining horseradish bitterness and lemon candy.
WORDS WORDS WORDS
Yes, one shouldn't expect a normal whisky from a magical hogshead, and this one thus delivers. The neat nose is quite lovely, but the neat palate runs hot and bland. Dilution improves the palate, but scrambles up the nose. Because whisky is made for drinking, the diluted version works better, and perhaps more water may help it further. But still, it's falling into this cluster's pattern of B- whiskies.
Availability - Sold out
Pricing - €60-ish
Rating - 82 (diluted)
Teaninich 11 year old 2006 Cadenhead, exclusive to the US market, 56.4%abv
NEAT
This has the apple + guava combo on the nose too, then adds banana pudding, bubblegum, and toasted grain notes. Some coriander sneaks in later, as do some plasticky notes. The palate is less hot, but bitterer, and also rather tight. A similar chile oil is present but it meets up with charred beef, barley, and lemons well. Devoid of sweetness, the finish leans on chile oil and lemon oil.
DILUTED to ~46%abv, or >1¼ tsp of water per 30mL whisky
More toasted oak spices appear in the nose, like cloves and fruity cinnamon. A hint of the guava merges with lemongrass, and a hint of cologne. Lots of toasty oak in the palate too. Vibrant ginger powder and tangy citrus meets up with herbal bitterness, and very little sweetness. It finishes with ginger, lemons, and a simple bitterness.
WORDS WORDS WORDS
This one works better for my nose and palate overall. Its lack of sweetness reads better than in the Polish cask, and the toasty oak notes (from this nearly clear whisky) play well with the other characteristics. As you may see from the notes, these two sibling hogsheads share a style, and one can really sense it when drinking them side by side, something I enjoy about Taste Offs like this. Between the two casks, I'd go back to this one a second or third time before returning to the Polish release.
Availability - Sold out
Pricing - $80-ish
Rating - 83