Mars Komagatake 2022 Edition

The Hombo Shuzo Company made multiple attempts at establishing consistent whisky production. The family-run company earned their whisky license in 1949, but didn't build their first distillery until 1960, in Yamanashi. Kiichiro Iwai, one of the men who sent Masataka Taketsuru to Scotland to learn the whisky trade in 1918, oversaw production at the distillery until his death in 1966. The distillery closed in 1969 because its whisky did not sell well among its Japanese customers. Another distillery was built in Kagoshima a few years later, but that one closed soon after as well. The issue with the Kagoshima distillery was the same as that of the Yamanashi distillery, the Scottish-style proved too heavy for the Japanese consumers at the time. Lighter spirit was needed.

In 1984, Shinshu Distillery opened in the Japanese Alps. The source water was softer up there, while the temperature and altitude would result in slow maturation. Shinshu experienced limited success until 1992, when Japan's recession and decline in whisky sales forced the distillery to close. As whisky sales started to climb worldwide in 2011, the distillery reopened. The distillery hasn't closed since, but did install brand new stills in 2014. Hombo Shuzo opened a second distillery, Tsunuki, in Kagoshima again, so they could go back to producing a heavier spirit, now more appreciated worldwide.

Shinshu Distillery single malts, from both production eras, are released under the Komagatake brand. Over 200 different Komagatake whiskies have been released over the years. Malts distilled during the more recent era first appeared in 2014 with Shinshu's 3 year old whisky.

Since 2020, the distillery has released an annual 50%abv NAS small batch single malt. I had the chance to try a few of the editions while in Japan, but this is my first opportunity to try one while inside my hermetically sealed whisky laboratory. Did I say laboratory? I meant lavatory.

Distillery: Mars Shinshu
Ownership: Hombo Shuzo Co. Ltd.
Brand: Komagatake
Region: Nagano Prefecture, Japan
Age: at least 3 years old
Maturation: allegedly bourbon, sherry, and port casks

Bottling year: 2022
Outturn: ???
Alcohol by Volume: 50%
(from a bottle split)

NEAT

The yeasty, malty nose dishes out bananas, lager, apricots, cinnamon, lumber, and circus peanuts. The rawness of the palate surprises, even though, as a 3yo palate it shouldn't. It's floral and sweet, with lots of marshmallows. Honey on Irish soda bread. Maybe a hint of smoke. It finishes even sweeter, like agave nectar and vanilla.

DILUTED to ~46%abv, or ½ tsp of water per 30mL whisky

The nose shows more vanilla and lager, but also offers hints of tobacco, mango peel, and oloroso. Lots of tangy new make leads the palate, with lime and vanilla in the midground, sweat and tannins in the background. The finish lasts longer with a mix of lemons and tannins.

WORDS WORDS WORDS

Slightly disappointing, this whisky fell short of my previous Komagatake experiences, and the Whiskybase community's feelings about this whisky. It's not terrible stuff, just very sweet, very limited baby malt. Many of us (including this reviewer) want to love Komagatake, but it's difficult to get a legitimate read on how a ~3yo whisky fits into a distillery's bigger picture. With that in mind, four single casks will follow!

Availability - At a few dozen retailers in the US and Europe
Pricing - $110 to $180
Rating - 78